Arctica Chiller 1/4Hp Kick in 3mins

[stmomo]

Hi Guys/Siss..... first time using chiller don knw whether normal a not.

Yesterday i just ON my chiller..... i had set the temp to 28. Few questions need yr help as below,

1) How to set a range for the chiller to kink in/out? I only can set 1 temperature setting, which is 28. I though can set my desire tempearture range like from 28 to 29... then when temp hit 29.1 the chiller will kick in.

2) Currently i had set the temp to 28. The chiller will stop ar 27.9. Then 3 mins later at 28.5 the chiller will kick in. Again 3 mins later when reach 27.9, the chiller stop.... is not normal right? i can see from some threads that chiller can stop for 1 to 2 hrs then kick in.... and 60 mins later stop.....

Thanks you....

[stevenkoh08]

how you place you inlet and out in your sump and wat flow rate you're using

a photo will speak alot

[stmomo]

how you place you inlet and out in your sump and wat flow rate you're using

a photo will speak alot

ok... tonight go back take pix....

currently my inlet and out from eheim 1260 chiller pump is in the last compartment.... same compartment....

i tried putting the pump in the skimmer compartment and the return from chiller to the last compartment, the water suck up very fast in the skimmer compartment.... can i just add in a control valve to control the flow rate? thanks bro.....

[dersuz]

This is normal for all artica chillers with 0.6 degree cut in/out time as compare to other brands with 1 or 2 degree. Only 1/2 hp and above will have a higher cut in/out time of 0.8 degree.

[desideria]

same compartment won't help...

Firstly, Arctica thermostat range is preset to 0.5 degrees not 1 degree. So if your set temp is 27.. that means that the temp of the water will go up to 27.5 and then the chiller will kick in and cool it down to 26.9 and then stop. Your chiller should come with instructions as to how to set your temperature.. the differential is fixed at 0.5 degrees, that you can't change.

Secondly if your inlet and outlet is in the same compartment.. think of it logically, the chilled water is going back into the SAME compartment where the pump IN for supposedly Unchilled water is... so it is not efficient as the chilller is chilling the relatively same water it JUST chilled so the temperature reading will definitely drop quickly in the chiller since it senses the water is already cold. so it drops really quickly.. but the problem is that it's not chilling the water from your entire system but just the water in that compartment since the inlet and outlet is in the same compartment! This is the reason why people are telling you to put your inlet and oulet in different compartments.. this is the problem that you will and are facing. Change the inlet and outlet to seperate compartments and it will solve this issue.

Good luck.

[limsc]

Last question, what is your return pump model and flowrate.

Your chiller pump is rated 2400l/hour.

Your return pump had to be much higher than 2400l/hour as there is head loss.

You mentioned if you change to skimmer compartment, the water deplete very fast. I seriously suspect the final return pump turnover is lower than your Eheim 2400l/hr.

For your info:

My chiller pump and return is in the same last compartment due to space constraints but my last compartment is 1.5' by 1' by 1.5'.

I tried to put the chiller pump at 1 end of the compartment and the outlet from the chiller to the return pump area (in the other end) to minimise the same chilled water going back to chiller.

My chiller pump is at 2000l/hour while return pump is Eheim 1262 which is rated 3400l/hr, should be around ~2800l/hr(estimated only) after the 1.8m headloss.

At least this way, my turnover for my sump (last compartment) is larger than the chiller feedrate. Although not perfect but it is the best i can have.

[dnsfpl]

my return pump is 1264 outsump and im using another 1264, insump, to feed my chiller

dont have this "water deplete" issue

[stmomo]

This is normal for all artica chillers with 0.6 degree cut in/out time as compare to other brands with 1 or 2 degree. Only 1/2 hp and above will have a higher cut in/out time of 0.8 degree.

Ya.... now i realise that... thanks for he info bro.....

[stmomo]

same compartment won't help...

Firstly, Arctica thermostat range is preset to 0.5 degrees not 1 degree. So if your set temp is 27.. that means that the temp of the water will go up to 27.5 and then the chiller will kick in and cool it down to 26.9 and then stop. Your chiller should come with instructions as to how to set your temperature.. the differential is fixed at 0.5 degrees, that you can't change.

Secondly if your inlet and outlet is in the same compartment.. think of it logically, the chilled water is going back into the SAME compartment where the pump IN for supposedly Unchilled water is... so it is not efficient as the chilller is chilling the relatively same water it JUST chilled so the temperature reading will definitely drop quickly in the chiller since it senses the water is already cold. so it drops really quickly.. but the problem is that it's not chilling the water from your entire system but just the water in that compartment since the inlet and outlet is in the same compartment! This is the reason why people are telling you to put your inlet and oulet in different compartments.. this is the problem that you will and are facing. Change the inlet and outlet to seperate compartments and it will solve this issue.

Good luck.

Thnaks for the info Sis....

In fact, initially after advice from you all I did change my location of the chiller pump to the skimmer compartment.... but the problem is when i place my chiller return to the last compartmet..... it seems like the water is going back from the last compartment back to the skimmer compartment... i will post pix.... u will knw wat i meant.... thanks....

[stmomo]

Last question, what is your return pump model and flowrate.

Your chiller pump is rated 2400l/hour.

Your return pump had to be much higher than 2400l/hour as there is head loss.

You mentioned if you change to skimmer compartment, the water deplete very fast. I seriously suspect the final return pump turnover is lower than your Eheim 2400l/hr.

For your info:

My chiller pump and return is in the same last compartment due to space constraints but my last compartment is 1.5' by 1' by 1.5'.

I tried to put the chiller pump at 1 end of the compartment and the outlet from the chiller to the return pump area (in the other end) to minimise the same chilled water going back to chiller.

My chiller pump is at 2000l/hour while return pump is Eheim 1262 which is rated 3400l/hr, should be around ~2800l/hr(estimated only) after the 1.8m headloss.

At least this way, my turnover for my sump (last compartment) is larger than the chiller feedrate. Although not perfect but it is the best i can have.

Hi Bro... i am using 1264 for my return to DT. I had tried using the same mehod just now but in the skimmer compartment.... the kick in seems better liao.....

[stmomo]

my return pump is 1264 outsump and im using another 1264, insump, to feed my chiller

dont have this "water deplete" issue

[stmomo]

Hi Guys/Siss.... thanks for all the advice... here are some of pix for my sump so that u had a clearer picture of wat i had mentioned.....

1)Overview of the cabinet with chiller and sump tank....

2)Sump Tank -> 1st Compartment currently empty, will be for DSB.

2nd Comparment skimmer, eheim 1260 chiller pump and filter sock for chiller return.

3rd Compartment eheim 1264 return pump to DT.

3)Close up of the Skimmer Compartment. Eheim 1260 Chiller pump is place behind the skimmer and the return now is place further away fromn the pump but still in the same compartment.

4)Last Compartment is Eheim 1264 return pump.

Now currently the kick in and off time is 30 mins but still not good enough.

I had tried placing the filter socks and skimmer return in the last compartment but skimmer compartment water level drop abit and the last compartment water level went up. It seems like the water from the last compartment is flowing back to the skimmer compartment.....

[allantang]

just a suggestion..

1. raise your second compartment water level(abt an inch higher), such that 2 n 3 compartment about the same. cos i believe ur water level is on the low side..

2. the return from the chiller can actually connect to the return pipe. that way, u save space, heat n $$.

hope it helps.

[sunny03]

i would suggest the chiller return goes directly to your main tank.. this way you will have 2 return to your main tank .. in case either one fails u still have the other working.

[desideria]

yeah I second what Sunny says .... can your chiller pipe be piped directly into your main tank?

Or have you tried putting the chiller pump in the first compartment and the return of the chiller pipe in the last compartment? I know your first compartment is meant for DSB but my own personal opinion after having a DSB is that it doesn't work especially since the DSB is so small in relation to the size of your tank as it should be as big or even bigger than your main tank. I could be wrong but from personal experience, if your DSB is that small, no point of having it. Do reconsider and good luck

[iskay]

Chiller in should not be in same compartment as chiller out. Better return the chilled water directly to the display tank. Chiller in should be as downstream as possible in the your sump to lessen detritus accumulation in the chiller reactor. Detritus accumulation diminishes the chilling efficacy.

[stmomo]

just a suggestion..

1. raise your second compartment water level(abt an inch higher), such that 2 n 3 compartment about the same. cos i believe ur water level is on the low side..

2. the return from the chiller can actually connect to the return pipe. that way, u save space, heat n $$.

hope it helps.

Hi Bro... thanks for the advice,

1) Raise the water level means pour in more water right?

2) Ya... one mistake is that i did not connect it to the return.... now might need to redo some pipping liao....

[stmomo]

i would suggest the chiller return goes directly to your main tank.. this way you will have 2 return to your main tank .. in case either one fails u still have the other working.

Thanks bro.... redundancy..... might need to connect it using a hose to the main tank and try....

[stmomo]

yeah I second what Sunny says .... can your chiller pipe be piped directly into your main tank?

Or have you tried putting the chiller pump in the first compartment and the return of the chiller pipe in the last compartment? I know your first compartment is meant for DSB but my own personal opinion after having a DSB is that it doesn't work especially since the DSB is so small in relation to the size of your tank as it should be as big or even bigger than your main tank. I could be wrong but from personal experience, if your DSB is that small, no point of having it. Do reconsider and good luck

Ya... in fact this is what i had read somewhere abt the size of the DSB. I had also come across some sites stating that DSB will still have certain impact even in small scale..... been considering abt the DSB for very long time and finally i made up my mind to try it out and see whether it works..... so that i can share share my experience....... Thanks Sis.....

I had not try putting it in the first compartment. But something just strike me is that my return pump is not fully open..... i might need to adjust the valve so that water may flow smoother on the last compartment when i ON the chiller pump and the chiller return is in the last compartment......

[stmomo]

Chiller in should not be in same compartment as chiller out. Better return the chilled water directly to the display tank. Chiller in should be as downstream as possible in the your sump to lessen detritus accumulation in the chiller reactor. Detritus accumulation diminishes the chilling efficacy.

Thanks Bro.... this is another issue I need to tackle as if i put my chiller pump in the 2nd compartment...afriad that sand from the first compartment might accidentally flow over......

[sunny03]

Thanks bro.... redundancy..... might need to connect it using a hose to the main tank and try....

this should be a easier option and fast to know the result

i would suggest that you put the exit of the chiller hose to the return pump compartment 3rd if i not wrong which moves water to your main tank

This way the return pump will move the chilled water to your main tank. put the hose near to inlet of the return pump so it will draw more chilled water

another way get some experience reefer to go to your place and help... this will be the fastest way...

[stmomo]

this should be a easier option and fast to know the result

i would suggest that you put the exit of the chiller hose to the return pump compartment 3rd if i not wrong which moves water to your main tank

This way the return pump will move the chilled water to your main tank. put the hose near to inlet of the return pump so it will draw more chilled water

another way get some experience reefer to go to your place and help... this will be the fastest way...

Thank You Thank You... appreciate yr advice....

Btw bro..... From the problem i describe.... the water will flow back from 3rd compartment to 2nd compartment is because my return pump is not open fully right? The method u mentioned I had tried but becos of the flow back issue i stop. Tonight i will try again but this time i will add in more water on the 2nd compartment and also adjust the return pump valve..... will update again....

[stmomo]

Hi Guys/Siss.... thank you for all the advice.... after trying few methods found out that the chiller pump and chiller return is too close to each other.... many thanks to everyone who had give me precious advice.... thanks to Bro Orsony for calling me and make sure my problem is solve... really appreciate it.....

1st Attempt => Chiller Pump and Chiller return put in 2nd compartment but at one corner each. Kick in and out around 30mins each.

2nd Attempt => Temp set at 28.5, Chiller Pump in 2nd compartment and Chiller Return in last/3rd compartment. Kick in 3hrs and run for 45 mins. Top up water level in the 2nd compartment to about an inch. See pix for the final position of the equipments......

[Joeteng]

I guess maybe the chiller is not big enough. The chiller can't cool fast enough to a lower temperature. Another scenario could be there is too many equipments in your tanks and gives out heat. Eg lighting such as MH and pump gives out heat.

[wilsontantw]

2 suggestions:

1) why not have the chiller return directly into main tank instead of sump? This way your tank will truly have chilled water.

2) sidetrack abit: increase the water level of the skimmer slightly. The skimmate is now forming inside the chamber. Makes it hard to clean. Raise it such that the skimmate starts at the cleaning cup neck. This way you only need to wash the collection cup, don't need to clean the chamber.

IMHO, a more accurate way is to use an external temp controller that comes with external probe. This probe should be placed into the main tank. This way, it's more relevant, else the chiller thermostat is merely detecting sump temp (which could be usually higher due to insump power-sucker pumps.