hfabs Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 I just set up my tank about close to a month ago and only just started to stock up last weekend with some soft corals, LPS hard corals, and a few fishes (4 juvenile clowns and 2 juvenile blue Tangs). Details of my tank are as follows: - Size: 4ft x 2ft x 2.5ft Return pump: German Ehiem pump 3400 litres/hr Skimmer: Reef Octopus OCTX 160 Lighting: Solarmax 4ft MH 2 x t 150 watts MH and 2 x T5 lights Wave maker: Ecotech Marine MP40W Chilling System: Hailea chiller 300A Seawater: filtered n treated seawater Rocks: Live Rocks covered in purple coraline algae The tank so far looks fine. About 2 weeks ago, I added some tap water (set over night) to replace some evaporation and realised that tap water even if set over-night, chloramine will still be present. A grave mistake to my horror. My query is: - 1) what should I use to replace evaporation instead of tap water? 2) When do i know is the time to change water and what salt mix should I use. I understand it is best I use it with distilled water. 3) Once I have changed water, what sort of water test should I conduct? (CA, MG, KH, NH, NO, PH, Salinity) Looking forward to some guidance on the above. Many many thanks in advance. : ) Mark Quote Description of my humble tank Size - 4 x 2 x 2.5 ft Protein Skimmer - Reef Octopus OCTX 160 Return Pump - Germain Eheim pump 3400 litres/hr Chiller - Hailea Chiller 300A Wave Maker - Ecotech Marine MP40W Lighting - Solarmax 4ft MH 2 x 150 watts & 2 x T5 lights Date of Commission of Tank - 22 Dec 2010 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamuelTan Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Use RO/DI water, Natural Seawater or NTUC 3 x 1.5L for $1.15 (Any reefers know where can get even cheaper? ) Do a weekly 10% water change? Not sure what salt, I think they are almost the same despite their claims on how high levels of trace elements they have! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hfabs Posted January 13, 2011 Author Share Posted January 13, 2011 Ukiya@ Thanks...alternatively I may just get treated seawater from Iwarna. Good day ahead : ) Quote Description of my humble tank Size - 4 x 2 x 2.5 ft Protein Skimmer - Reef Octopus OCTX 160 Return Pump - Germain Eheim pump 3400 litres/hr Chiller - Hailea Chiller 300A Wave Maker - Ecotech Marine MP40W Lighting - Solarmax 4ft MH 2 x 150 watts & 2 x T5 lights Date of Commission of Tank - 22 Dec 2010 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamuelTan Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 Ukiya@ Thanks...alternatively I may just get treated seawater from Iwarna. Good day ahead : ) Yup! As for me, my choices are limited to buying NTUC 1.5L as I don't drive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilsontantw Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 About 2 weeks ago, I added some tap water (set over night) to replace some evaporation and realised that tap water even if set over-night, chloramine will still be present. A grave mistake to my horror. My query is: - 1) what should I use to replace evaporation instead of tap water? 2) When do i know is the time to change water and what salt mix should I use. I understand it is best I use it with distilled water. 3) Once I have changed water, what sort of water test should I conduct? (CA, MG, KH, NH, NO, PH, Salinity) Hi and welcome to reefing. Btw how did u find out that cloramine still exist when u set the tap water overnight? 1) In anycase, the recommendation is to use DI unit with close to 0 TDS reading. Someone here is selling a crystal pro set at good price (no TDS meter though).. Comes with rowaphos too.. RO/DI also can but be prepared to waste some water. You can also use bottled distilled water or those huge gallon bottle for top up. Just remember not to use "mineral water".. 2) when to do water change (WC)? Recommendation is 10% weekly. Anything else is up to you. There's no real rules.. Cos Ive heard of some who do not need to change water for years! 3) usually test salinity. If u r particular (eg keep SPS) then u should check ca/kh/Mg. Which u would already be doing since SPS requires these 3 to be relatively constant. Hope this helps. To sustain a good reef tank, always a good habit to keep these 4 elements in check. Plus ur temperature as well. Quote decommissioned 2.5x2x2 Videos: | | Your mind is like a parachute. It only works when it is open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hfabs Posted January 13, 2011 Author Share Posted January 13, 2011 Barracuda@ Many thanks and I will take good heed of what you mentioned. Btw, how often you check your ca/kh/Mg? My salinity is around 1.023 and temp ard 27C. Good day Mark Quote Description of my humble tank Size - 4 x 2 x 2.5 ft Protein Skimmer - Reef Octopus OCTX 160 Return Pump - Germain Eheim pump 3400 litres/hr Chiller - Hailea Chiller 300A Wave Maker - Ecotech Marine MP40W Lighting - Solarmax 4ft MH 2 x 150 watts & 2 x T5 lights Date of Commission of Tank - 22 Dec 2010 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member fleek Posted January 15, 2011 SRC Member Share Posted January 15, 2011 Get the RO/DI 5 stage filtration system from Garyj in this forum, comes with free TDS meter. It is a great kit. I use the water for a lot of stuff, including topping up my car batteries and car coolant. This kit can convert urine to pure water. NTUC mineral water does not promise no phosphates or nitrates, only no chlorine. The filtration system gives you pure water with 0 TDS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilsontantw Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 dude, just for my understanding... do u mean 0 TDS = no nitrates/phosphate? Btw: you don't need RO and DI to get 0 TDS... DI alone will give you 0 TDS. Quote decommissioned 2.5x2x2 Videos: | | Your mind is like a parachute. It only works when it is open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamuelTan Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 dude, just for my understanding... do u mean 0 TDS = no nitrates/phosphate? Btw: you don't need RO and DI to get 0 TDS... DI alone will give you 0 TDS. Bro, I have a DI unit but have no idea how to use it =/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member fleek Posted January 15, 2011 SRC Member Share Posted January 15, 2011 dude, just for my understanding... do u mean 0 TDS = no nitrates/phosphate? Btw: you don't need RO and DI to get 0 TDS... DI alone will give you 0 TDS. 0 TDS means nothing in the water - it is pure H2O. You don't need RO and DI to get 0 TDS, however, RO+DI will allow you to stretch your DI resins by a factor of 10-20 times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member fleek Posted January 15, 2011 SRC Member Share Posted January 15, 2011 Bro, I have a DI unit but have no idea how to use it =/ Just pass water through the DI unit and you should get pure water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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