red slime

[hellokitty]

hi,my tank now having red slime,my tank is full with sps.

if i put red slime remover on my tank,

will the red slime remover affect the sps?

tks.

[wilsontantw]

Not recommended if u have sps. Better stick with water change and add more flow.

When u siphon out water siphon the red slime as well. Best to change 5% every day.

It worked for me after 2 weeks.

Remember to use DI water...

[hellokitty]

Not recommended if u have sps. Better stick with water change and add more flow.

When u siphon out water siphon the red slime as well. Best to change 5% every day.

It worked for me after 2 weeks.

Remember to use DI water...

Water change.i hate it,but i think this is the best way.

tks wilson

[wilsontantw]

Uh huh. I hate it too.

But you'll get to see the benefits, especially if u keep SPS. Growth and colouration will be rewarded.

[angel fish]

Can try with electric blue hermit crab & sea hare which eats red slime. Got 2 hermit crabs & 1 sea hare in my 4 ft tank with LPS & soft coral. Red slime now all gone within a month & i still adding tap water for top up evaporation. Anyway i also got deep sand bed to control NO3 & Chaeto to absorb both NO3 & PO4. Both readings tested with Sera test kit; NO3 at 25ppm & PO4 at 1ppm which still manageable.

[hellokitty]

Can try with electric blue hermit crab & sea hare which eats red slime. Got 2 hermit crabs & 1 sea hare in my 4 ft tank with LPS & soft coral. Red slime now all gone within a month & i still adding tap water for top up evaporation. Anyway i also got deep sand bed to control NO3 & Chaeto to absorb both NO3 & PO4. Both readings tested with Sera test kit; NO3 at 25ppm & PO4 at 1ppm which still manageable.

ok ,i will try it.tks

[Eniram]

New and Old aquarists may find this post helpful when you want immediate answers.

One major problem in tanks is cyano. This is especially true in new unestablished tanks. First lets state the reasons for that.

1) New tanks often have live rock cured in them before adding any fish to the tank; this leaves dead decaying matter in the tank to fuel cyano growth.

2) New tanks also aren't as stable on the chemical level as older more established tanks. Given time and careful water maintenance your water parameters will become more stable as well.

3) Other things I have heard help fuel cyano is low pH, how true this is I'm not sure, but low pH can cause many other problems as well.

Now to actually curing the cyano problem. There are many products on the market designed to kill cyano but I'm not a fan of dumping all sorts of chemicals into my tank. This usually involves checking if its ok with inverts, corals and fish. I choose to use a more natural way to rid the cyano which is just as easy.

Before doing any of the steps check for phosphates and nitrates. High phosphates and nitrates are notorious for helping to grow this stuff. High levels of phosphates are considered more than 0.03ppm while high nitrates are over 20ppm. If any of these are your problem, simple weekly water changes with RO water will help with your fix.

After Checking for phosphates here are your steps.

1) Weekly water changes using RO water. RO water eliminates an excess nutrient problem from even entering the water.

2) Increase Circulation in the tank. Cyano is known to thrive in areas of low circulation. (General Rule is 10x more circulation than tank volume)

3) Good Skimmer and skimmer maintenance. (Cleaning the collection cup often, and cleaning the skimmer itself once a month if possible)

4) Dripping kalk at night will help to precipitate out CaPO4, which can then be collected by the skimmer

5) Suck out any large patches of cyano with a turkey baster, this will completely remove the nutrients from the water column.

Other notes

-Over feeding will also help to raise nutrient levels.

-Cutting back on lighting period can help to reduce cyano (not preferred in my eyes)

-Growing macro algae will take up excess nutrients before cyano can use them.

Hope this helps and I hope you can avoid using those needless chemicals. They are only temporary fixes they will not solve your problem. Curing cyano is more than just making it disappear, it’s correcting the entire problem.

Good Luck!

[CFOh]

New and Old aquarists may find this post helpful when you want immediate answers.

One major problem in tanks is cyano. This is especially true in new unestablished tanks. First lets state the reasons for that.

1) New tanks often have live rock cured in them before adding any fish to the tank; this leaves dead decaying matter in the tank to fuel cyano growth.

2) New tanks also aren't as stable on the chemical level as older more established tanks. Given time and careful water maintenance your water parameters will become more stable as well.

3) Other things I have heard help fuel cyano is low pH, how true this is I'm not sure, but low pH can cause many other problems as well.

Now to actually curing the cyano problem. There are many products on the market designed to kill cyano but I'm not a fan of dumping all sorts of chemicals into my tank. This usually involves checking if its ok with inverts, corals and fish. I choose to use a more natural way to rid the cyano which is just as easy.

Before doing any of the steps check for phosphates and nitrates. High phosphates and nitrates are notorious for helping to grow this stuff. High levels of phosphates are considered more than 0.03ppm while high nitrates are over 20ppm. If any of these are your problem, simple weekly water changes with RO water will help with your fix.

After Checking for phosphates here are your steps.

1) Weekly water changes using RO water. RO water eliminates an excess nutrient problem from even entering the water.

2) Increase Circulation in the tank. Cyano is known to thrive in areas of low circulation. (General Rule is 10x more circulation than tank volume)

3) Good Skimmer and skimmer maintenance. (Cleaning the collection cup often, and cleaning the skimmer itself once a month if possible)

4) Dripping kalk at night will help to precipitate out CaPO4, which can then be collected by the skimmer

5) Suck out any large patches of cyano with a turkey baster, this will completely remove the nutrients from the water column.

Other notes

-Over feeding will also help to raise nutrient levels.

-Cutting back on lighting period can help to reduce cyano (not preferred in my eyes)

-Growing macro algae will take up excess nutrients before cyano can use them.

Hope this helps and I hope you can avoid using those needless chemicals. They are only temporary fixes they will not solve your problem. Curing cyano is more than just making it disappear, it’s correcting the entire problem.

Good Luck!

Thanks for Sharing the tips

Some add on Cyno info from book "Marine Algae Control Secrets 2nd Edition by Bob Goemans, pg 34".

I just pick those haven't cover by Bro Eniram

Cynobacteria, including Derbesia and Bryopsis is photosynthetic and prefers the red spectrum. Some aquarists report that after a few days of using only actinic light their cyanobacteria bloom had great diminished.

Siphon out affected area's upper quarter inch of sand and replace with new sand. Often this removes an area where there was a concentration of organic material.

Also about the chemical effects...

The antibiotic Erythromycin sulfate or Tetracycline will kill cyano bacteria. Even though these chemicals may eliminate this unwanted pest the first time around, further problem blooms may become more resistant to the drugs. It is really much wiser to get to the root of the problem than to put antibiotics into the aquarium. Bear in mind that antibiotics negatively affect system biological filtration.

Cheers and Happy Reefing..