Am I right doing this?

[fleek]

Hi all,

Appreciate your contribution and advises. Let me outline the background first.

I bought a marine tank on impulse a small 30L tank, my daughter wanted it. So from the start many fishes died. However, I got the whole thing stable after 5 months, with one fish surviving.

So I bought another tank, now it is a 130L tank (30 gallons). Now I am trying to cycle the 130L tank, which is a second hand tank that I have bought.

What I have done is to first ensure that the salt content is sufficient. Now, I have to make sure that the tank is sufficient low temperature to match my smaller tank.

What I have is a single Chiller, now I must chill both tanks. So my thought is to do so ... 130L tank, pump water (1300 L/hr flow rate) into filter canister (700 L/Hr flow rate), into UV Sterilizer, into Chiller (1/10 HP), into 30L tank. 30L tank pump (1200 L/hr flow rate) into big tank. My protein skimmers are running in both tanks. Appreciate if experienced people can advise.

[FuEl]

Hi all,

Appreciate your contribution and advises. Let me outline the background first.

I bought a marine tank on impulse a small 30L tank, my daughter wanted it. So from the start many fishes died. However, I got the whole thing stable after 5 months, with one fish surviving.

So I bought another tank, now it is a 130L tank (30 gallons). Now I am trying to cycle the 130L tank, which is a second hand tank that I have bought.

What I have done is to first ensure that the salt content is sufficient. Now, I have to make sure that the tank is sufficient low temperature to match my smaller tank.

What I have is a single Chiller, now I must chill both tanks. So my thought is to do so ... 130L tank, pump water (1300 L/hr flow rate) into filter canister (700 L/Hr flow rate), into UV Sterilizer, into Chiller (1/10 HP), into 30L tank. 30L tank pump (1200 L/hr flow rate) into big tank. My protein skimmers are running in both tanks. Appreciate if experienced people can advise.

Not possible. You will have trouble matching the water flows due to flow restriction and headloss. Only way to only utilize one chiller is drill both tanks, join to a common sump. Chiller plumb to sump. Either get a return pump for each tank or split the return from a single pump into 2.

[CFOh]

Hi all,

Appreciate your contribution and advises. Let me outline the background first.

I bought a marine tank on impulse a small 30L tank, my daughter wanted it. So from the start many fishes died. However, I got the whole thing stable after 5 months, with one fish surviving.

So I bought another tank, now it is a 130L tank (30 gallons). Now I am trying to cycle the 130L tank, which is a second hand tank that I have bought.

What I have done is to first ensure that the salt content is sufficient. Now, I have to make sure that the tank is sufficient low temperature to match my smaller tank.

What I have is a single Chiller, now I must chill both tanks. So my thought is to do so ... 130L tank, pump water (1300 L/hr flow rate) into filter canister (700 L/Hr flow rate), into UV Sterilizer, into Chiller (1/10 HP), into 30L tank. 30L tank pump (1200 L/hr flow rate) into big tank. My protein skimmers are running in both tanks. Appreciate if experienced people can advise.

Hai, above setup looks very tedious.. you might need to manual tune the water flow valve in order to prevent overflow due to mismatch..

Ya, join both tank with hole drill like fuel suggested might works.. Bro Vt_Snowman87 is using this concept.

Or you can consider gravity feed overflow box...

But above both method we better make sure have enough sump volume, to prevent overflow in case power outage..

Cheers and Happy Reefing...

[tunicate]

Hi all,

Appreciate your contribution and advises. Let me outline the background first.

I bought a marine tank on impulse a small 30L tank, my daughter wanted it. So from the start many fishes died. However, I got the whole thing stable after 5 months, with one fish surviving.

So I bought another tank, now it is a 130L tank (30 gallons). Now I am trying to cycle the 130L tank, which is a second hand tank that I have bought.

What I have done is to first ensure that the salt content is sufficient. Now, I have to make sure that the tank is sufficient low temperature to match my smaller tank.

What I have is a single Chiller, now I must chill both tanks. So my thought is to do so ... 130L tank, pump water (1300 L/hr flow rate) into filter canister (700 L/Hr flow rate), into UV Sterilizer, into Chiller (1/10 HP), into 30L tank. 30L tank pump (1200 L/hr flow rate) into big tank. My protein skimmers are running in both tanks. Appreciate if experienced people can advise.

Hi Fleek,

There're risk of flooding once your plumbing gets complex. If you only intend to keep fishes in your 30L, there's probably no need for a chiller if water temp is below 31C. A simple hang-on filter together with your existing skimmer would take care of things.

Then, you only need to hook up 130L --> canister filter --> chiller --> back to 130L. You need only 1 pump with sufficient power to push water through this loop. Your UV flow needs to be slower to be effective, hence a much smaller pump. (Of course you can also T-off from your main pump with a flow control to the UV, but that would require a bit more DIY plumbing.)

What I've described above are 2 separate systems where your floor should be quite safe from flooding even during a power outage.

Alternatively, there is a lot more research & work involve if you go the whole 10 yards for a proper Tank-with-sump system. If you do go down this path, below are some of the questions you'll be asking:

(1) Cost to drill main tank + overflow construction + 30L tank conversion to sump + plumbing

(2) Is there an existing cabinet for 130L to accommodate the 30L sump below? Needs to drill cabinet too.

(3) Is the 30L sufficient to contain back flow from 130L during power outage? Purchase new sump tank?

(4) Cost of new return pump

(5) ....other details...

At the end of the day, you'll have a ballpark figure on how much effort & $ is needed. Some people enjoys DIY, but others may just opt to purchase whole system pre-configured. You'll have to decide.

[fleek]

My intention is to eventually move everything to the 130L tank, so the setup is only temporary for cycling purpose.

[tunicate]

My intention is to eventually move everything to the 130L tank, so the setup is only temporary for cycling purpose.

Then keep it simple. You don't even need a chiller.

[Gouldian]

My intention is to eventually move everything to the 130L tank, so the setup is only temporary for cycling purpose.

You don't need chiller to cycle your tank. Plum in the chiller when you need to introduce livestocks.

[fleek]

In this case how long do I need to cycle the tank? The tank is second hand and I have thrown in some old filtration material from the smaller tank and most of the equipment are bought second hand. I also have some second hand live rocks in the 130L tank.

[comycus]

the normal cycling process takes 4-6 weeks. You should be monitoring and tracking your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels to assess when your cycling process is completed.

[mansiz]

Do you have live rocks in the tank?

[fleek]

Yep, I have about 5kg worth of live rocks. I just tested the tanks no ammonia level, nitrate nor nitrite. pH is about 8. Salinity is about 1.021. It has been cycling for the past 6 days and looks ok to me. Only the temp is quite high at 34 without chiller.

[Gouldian]

Yep, I have about 5kg worth of live rocks. I just tested the tanks no ammonia level, nitrate nor nitrite. pH is about 8. Salinity is about 1.021. It has been cycling for the past 6 days and looks ok to me. Only the temp is quite high at 34 without chiller.

Try to add some ammonia source to start the cycling process. This can be 1/4 cube of brain shrimp, let it decompose in your tank, you will be able to register a spike in the ammonia followed by nitrite and then nitrate. Once ammonia and nitrite is zero and nitrate is around 5ppm or lesser, you can safely introduce fishes.

As comycus has mentioned cycling takes 4-6 weeks. This is due to the fact that beneficial nitrifying bacteria multiplying takes longer time to multiplying and get to work.

Hope that helps.

[fleek]

Try to add some ammonia source to start the cycling process. This can be 1/4 cube of brain shrimp, let it decompose in your tank, you will be able to register a spike in the ammonia followed by nitrite and then nitrate. Once ammonia and nitrite is zero and nitrate is around 5ppm or lesser, you can safely introduce fishes.

As comycus has mentioned cycling takes 4-6 weeks. This is due to the fact that beneficial nitrifying bacteria multiplying takes longer time to multiplying and get to work.

Hope that helps.

I dropped a little bit of my dog poop inside the tank and afterwhich there is no amonia after a day, is that considered fine?

[wilsontantw]

I dropped a little bit of my dog poop inside the tank and afterwhich there is no amonia after a day, is that considered fine?

Huh??? Dog poo??? Why would u do that?? Btw how little is little bit? Suggest u put in market prawn or even some dead fish.... But dog poo... Now this is a tough one...

Back to plumbing work, best to ensure u r prepared for murphy's visit. Unless u or someone is at home 24x7 to do recovery action in case Murphy drops by, else better to separate the tanks or use a shared sump for a peace of mind...

[fleek]

Huh??? Dog poo??? Why would u do that?? Btw how little is little bit? Suggest u put in market prawn or even some dead fish.... But dog poo... Now this is a tough one...

Back to plumbing work, best to ensure u r prepared for murphy's visit. Unless u or someone is at home 24x7 to do recovery action in case Murphy drops by, else better to separate the tanks or use a shared sump for a peace of mind...

What I did was to take some dog poop, about 1/2 cm, drop into a container and with water and then use a drill to stirr it up until it mix well with the water, then I pour the solution into the tank. If the tank can take dog poop, I don't think it can not withstand poop generated by fishes. I know this is extreme test.

[wilsontantw]

Interesting thought... Do keep us posted once u test the water parameters.

For all we know, this can start a new way of tank cycling..

[fleek]

The NO3, NO2 and Ammonias are non existent, the test kits, strips all show zero, is that good? I don't know if the test kits expired, but at least the strips are good.

[bugattilambo]

What I did was to take some dog poop, about 1/2 cm, drop into a container and with water and then use a drill to stirr it up until it mix well with the water, then I pour the solution into the tank. If the tank can take dog poop, I don't think it can not withstand poop generated by fishes. I know this is extreme test.

wow Interesting Idea you have thought by using "Dog poop" anyway use a dead prawn would be better!

anyway would like to see the results of the poop!

[wilsontantw]

Well bro. The idea behind cycling is to allow beneficial bacteria to colonise ur system and ensure they can breakdown all the future poo and food or all other dead stuff.

Since ur trying this new "raw" material, I guess u must be ready to accept any risk that comes with the experiment?

Can try lah, but I suggest trying with a small prawn still.

Never hurts to cycle longer, grow more algae and pods... There's no real need to rush to buy corals or fish, they'll always be available.

I'm sure someone here must have said this before, patience is the key to this hobby...

Good luck and good night bro..

And remember the saying, be safe not sorry... We never know when there'll be a power trip... Just once is considered 1 time too many...

[comycus]

The problem with many of us is we drop in the dead prawn, or in your case dog poo and expect our test kits to register an ammonia/nitrite spike immediately. Bro, it's only been 1 day!

But then again, we really have no experience with dog poo. lol I would suggest dropping a market prawn coz u start seeing it decompose in front of your eyes.

Then again, I heard of people peeing into their tanks. I guess dog poo aint tt extreme!

[mansiz]

The whole process takes about 1 month from the day you drop a dead prawn or dead fish in.

By using dog poop, you will have to check if there are other toxic chemical that are not suitable for BB, corals and invert like copper.

I would suggest you to remove the dog poop if it is still there and replace it with a dead market prawn.

[Terryz_]

DOG POOP!!!!!!!!!!

I dunno where you get the idea from!!! But please ensure there are no residue of the DOG POOP in the tank, God knows what is inside the dog poops... Anyway, the die off from the liverocks that you are using is enough to kick start a ANN cycle unless you are using Dead rocks, I dunno why many reefers still use market prawn to kick start the ANN cycle...

And it is not possible to see the Ammonia spike in 1 day, it is a few days thing, it should register in your testkit within 1-2 weeks.. The whole cycling process will take 4-6 weeks without any additional help from additives..

Edited September 24, 2010 by Terryz_

[fleek]

I have transferred all the fishes. Will update on the outcome

[divinesloth]

You da man!

I wouldn't even go near the tank water with dog poop!

[braincoral]

Dog poo?

never heard of that before..

BTW

Best not to rush into adding livestocks esp

during that short cycling as the bacteria

might not able to handle it well

Patience = the ultimate key in reefing"

Keep us posted