my 3ft tank

[ryan]

Hi everyone... merry christmas!

i finally found some time to take some pics of my tank to follow up my previous topic...

its 5 weeks old now and finished cycling already...

will be doing water change tomorrow and might build my rock stackers today...

previous topic

[ryan]

Main tank

[ryan]

front view.

[ryan]

My disgusting sump.

[ryan]

macro algae

[ryan]

more macro algae.

and thats all folks!

please comment and advise.

thanks guys!

[CalciumReef]

What light are you using to light up sump?

[ryan]

1x36watts pl light set.

might be adding one more once the tank is fully set up.

why?

[CalciumReef]

funny thing is you sump got algae and main tank not....main tank lighting is stronger mah

[weileong]

Is it optical distortion or I see that your stand is bending?

[CKS]

funny thing is you sump got algae and main tank not....main tank lighting is stronger mah

thats normal .. macroalgae r more demanding in nutrient than microalgae.. as long as the macroalgae got a 'foothold' on the nutrient.. it'll be hard for microalgae to grow.

[MetalGear]

did u use a chiller??

and how ur temp in tank??

[ah^siao]

dun think there is a chiller?

can see a fan at the top

[KingFish]

Are your lights on 24/7? Diatom & cyano are taking hold, but at least its taking up some nutrients, you can siphon it out during your water change.

Your Chaetomorpha looks like its turning sexual. The Webbiana, as expected, are doing ok. Suggest you leave the lighting as 01x36w for the moment, changing the lighting scheme will encourage further nuisance growth.

Glad you have not rushed to stock your tank

Let the excess 'fuel' burn out and build up your LRs

Keep us updated and GOOD LUCK!!!

[ryan]

did u use a chiller??

and how ur temp in tank??

No chiller and no fans.

temp seems to stay around 26 cuz i only have the 36watts pl lights on 24/7.

only other source of heat is the return pump.

tank is also in my room so aircon is switched on at night.

but once the MH comes on and Pskimmer pump added and additional 2x39watts T5 lights i will need 2 fans on. if not, a chiller...

[ryan]

Are your lights on 24/7? Diatom & cyano are taking hold, but at least its taking up some nutrients, you can siphon it out during your water change.

Your Chaetomorpha looks like its turning sexual. The Webbiana, as expected, are doing ok. Suggest you leave the lighting as 01x36w for the moment, changing the lighting scheme will encourage further nuisance growth.

Glad you have not rushed to stock your tank

Let the excess 'fuel' burn out and build up your LRs

Keep us updated and GOOD LUCK!!!

Yeah lights are on 24/7 in refugium.

main tank lights are kept off.

i have been meaning to ask you how much water must i change?

also is it necessasary to change so much water if nitrates are low? or the significance of the water change is not to remove nitrates but for other reasons?

won't be adding live stocks till i'm sure nitrates are almost 0.

will set up Pskimmer and do water change tomorrow. so need to find out how much water to change.

was it 50% water? or 50% of main tank?

[KingFish]

I thought so , no big matter, see what kind of fuge photoperiod suits your system / needs.

First thing first, what are your water parameters? If your NO2 is zero and NO3 is starting to climb, suggest doing a 50% or more, water change. That means 50% of your total water volume. It should lower your NO3 and give you a buffer for your system to catch up.

Assuming you mean water change in general, it not only export a good deal of nutrients, but also restore the ionic balance of the water. Its a cheaper and safer option for both new and experience hobbyists.

To achieve zero nitrate is quite a task, but it takes great discipline and a well established filter bed to achieve that. Depending on what kind of system you intend to keep and set a benchmark to achieve.

That big bag of coral chips is almost definately going to stand in your way.

[CalciumReef]

Sorry to hijack but is 24/7 photoperiod for refugium recommended

[ryan]

I thought so , no big matter, see what kind of fuge photoperiod suits your system / needs.

First thing first, what are your water parameters? If your NO2 is zero and NO3 is starting to climb, suggest doing a 50% or more, water change. That means 50% of your total water volume. It should lower your NO3 and give you a buffer for your system to catch up.

Assuming you mean water change in general, it not only export a good deal of nutrients, but also restore the ionic balance of the water. Its a cheaper and safer option for both new and experience hobbyists.

To achieve zero nitrate is quite a task, but it takes great discipline and a well established filter bed to achieve that. Depending on what kind of system you intend to keep and set a benchmark to achieve.

That big bag of coral chips is almost definately going to stand in your way.

yeah i realised the coral chips would end up as a nitrate factory but that was only after i bought them. am thinking of replacing them later on but i don't know what to replace them with.

NO2 has been 0 for over 2 weeks already. I lost my NO3 tester instructions and colour chart so i can't test it. is it still safe to do water change now? or should i watch the NO3 pattern before i actually do the water change? set up skimmer last night already. foaming looks good. but i don't know if it is correctly set up. the settings you gave me have all been resetted. will pics help? or are they no use?

Thanks victor!

[KingFish]

You can change your water once your NO2 is zero and NO3 is on the rise.

Recommended Procedure:

1) Open Gate Valve completely

2) Open Air Valve completely

3) Close Gate valve in half turns, giving it a minute or so for the foam to stabilise, until the internal water level is slightly above the internal platform.

4) Close the air valve in minute adjustments to achieve desirable bubble size

Do not add any water conditioner to prevent skimmer overactivity, and keep salinity above 1.020.

Get this adjustments done, then post pics of the results.

Remove the coral chips and you will increase the total water volume. That should give the tank better fault tolerance.

[ah^siao]

mayb 24/7 lights in refugium makes the algaes concentrate inthere?

mine also on 24/7 2x55W pL...

[ryan]

an update...

these pics taken in december...

around christmas time...

[ryan]

clarence and my wonderful elecrtic saw!

[ryan]

planning rock stackers...

[ryan]

newspaper rocks!