weileong's 4ft tank

[roidan]

anyway bro,

why u need 4 bubbles/second so much? wat is your effluent dkh? u need so high dkh to maintain meh?

i using only 1 bubble every 10seconds now....still slowly increasing to match depletion rate

[weileong]

Cos before that was 1 bubble/sec so I reduce down to 0.25 bubble/sec to tweak the CR. I am still tweaking my CR

Ah.... thanks for the tips, I will drop it to 0.1 bubble/sec.

Going to one thousand, two thousand, three thousand...... ten thousand again, wait my wife tot I gone mad, counting in front of the cabinet

......

Tweak already, now 0.1 bubble/sec heheheh. I wouldn't have imagine if I could get this bubbling rate with my koya valve even if I spend 24 hrs tweaking it.

[weileong]

BLV 150W marine blue installed. This turns on one hr before and after my 2x250W BLV 10kk. Now my yellow tang don't go crazy after the lights goes off.

The coral also color up better.

[hsloo]

Hi,

Both the 2x250W BLV 10kk fitted into the same fixture as the BLV 150W marine blue?

[weileong]

Yes, my light fixture comes with 2x250W and 1x150W.

Originally it came only with 2x250W and I modify and added 1x150W in it.

You can get the same from X-glare so no modification is necessary.

If you want to do modification on MH fixture becareful and use only heat resistance wires and connectors. Else the normal wires might melt/turn brittle due to the heat.

[weileong]

Before this had to tweak the bubbling in my CR until I went crazy.  Now very easy with this metering valve, set at 4 bubbles/sec.

Now I realise my typo! I meant to say one bubble every 4 secs

[hsloo]

Do you think the fixture is not wide enough to reach to the edge of your tank? With those 3 lights on, bright enough on both edges?

Besides, did you put in actinic lights?

[weileong]

No actinic cos open top tank, didn't want to many stuffs up there, ended up too messy.

The ends are illuminated quite well with the 2x250W MH. No complains on that.

The 150W MH will probably just run for 4 hrs a day. Don't want a sudden blackout which always shock my yellow tang. That was my intention and also at weekends I'll just run the 150W longer in the evening so I get to enjoy viewing the tank longer at night.

[Joe_P]

Now I realise my typo! I meant to say one bubble every 4 secs

Glad you clear that up..... I was getting a little concern...

[weileong]

Joe,

Don't worry too much. BTW the worksmanship for your CR is first class. I think it's going to last me a long time.

I think after the post with typo, I had another one that mentioned 0.25 bubbles/sec.

I already tested the ph,Ca,kh of the effluent from the CR this afternoon.

Posted in another thread in the equipment reviews.

Currently CO2 = 1 bubble every 7sec

Effluent = 1 drop/sec

Effluent readings as follows:

pH 6.64

kh = 54 dkh (measured 3 times to confirm).

Ca = 720ppm

kh and Ca done with salifert test kit in 1/2 res

pH with my dennerle pH controller, 2 points calibrated before reading.

My main tank reading.

pH 8.38

kh = 9.6 dkh

Ca = 420 ppm

[FuEl]

wah..can't imagine 4 bubbles per second..all your fish will be gasping at the surface already...

[weileong]

Not really, I think if really 4 bubbles/sec then the excess CO2 will collect on top of the CR.

Moreover my effluent drips into my PS so that should help a bit with the ph.

I set my pH controller to cut the CO2 off when the pH of the main tank drops to 7.9 so that is another safety measure.

[FuEl]

Hmmm..okie.....

[Joe_P]

I set my pH controller to cut the CO2 off when the pH of the main tank drops to 7.9 so that is another safety measure.

Working on a development to get the probe into the CR... without any leaks....

And seriously considering you as a highly suitable candidate to conduct the experiment on.....

[weileong]

Come come

Whatever you do, you'll need to allow the probe to be removed easily cos the ph controller needs to be calibrated on a monthly basis.

[weileong]

New toy today. Tunze 6100.

Install in tank, fire up and immediately a lot of debriefs gets blown from my LR.

Now all 3 tunze (2x6000 + 1x6100) runs in pulse mode. 6100 set between 30%-75% power while the 6000s set to 30% to 100% power.

The 3 tunze output are directed at the LR so despite all these flow there is no disturbance to my DSB.

Now can see the polyps of my SPS swinging more. Before that with the 2x6000 they just barely move if not at all.

Can also see some waves at surface at the part where the 3 tunze output meets. Really like what you see out in the sea.

Now considering upgrade one of the 6000 to 6100

[weileong]

updated photo.

Fishes especially the two tangs seems more "happy" swimming around more actively, perhaps the higher flow now force them to do so.

The firegoby also now moving around more compared to previously. Might consider shifting them to the 2ft cube when it is ready.

[DeepBlue]

wow... ...expensive toys ... ...

not too close to those sps though...didnt know there was another outlet from my retrn pump that was blowing at one of my monti today...by mid day...got a fright that a bit of the surface kana blown off

just saw the pic...your tank is coming up very nicely

[weileong]

Thanks for the comments and advise bro, however the tunzes blowing at the sps are right across the other side of the tank and the polys are just waving very slowly, is that too strong?

The one you saw near the SPS is not blowing directly at the SPS in fact the output do not even touch the SPS, maybe from the picture it seems like it is blowing so close to them. The SPS are in the middle part of the tank while that tunze is at the rear of the tank but facing 45 degs so the output miss the SPS totally.

Hoping to keep the tank this way w/o additional LS and wait for the tank to mature. Almost 3 months now since the first LS was introduced.

[DeepBlue]

I think it is alright the way you placed the tunze....just that you might have some problem putting anything infront of the right tunze....will be too strong other sps... or corals

by the way..how is your LPS doing in that strong current...need some advice and sharing of exp too

[weileong]

I think other places should not be an issue too. Cos the tunze are high up and I think as long as if the SPS or other corals are not place at that height then the current that they get will be indirect, either bounced from the LR or collided between the output of the streams.

Maybe too early to worry about that now. More keen in seeing the SPS color up and I can already see 2 colony showing a bit of color at the tip.

Another one shows some purple at the body.

[DeepBlue]

true...keep the bioload down, with your setup, the sps will colour up veri nicely...

mine probably not, coz I like fishes (a lot of them) too much..

[weileong]

I loved fishes too and have quite a number of clownfish. Then they came down with marine velvet. 6 of 8 die and now left with 2 tomatos.

I tot those two tomatoes are destined to go in my tank too until the big bully 3.5" saddle back clown died and then they recovered from the diease in another 2 days. Must be the aggressive saddle back stressed them too much.

So I rather keep the bioload this way, at least I know now it is pretty stable and everyone is happy

I still go CF and so tempted to buy the tangs there but the feeling of screwing up my water parameters scares me off

[weileong]

some SPS pictures.

This one taken on 9th March 2004

[weileong]

Taken on 18th March 2004.

Dunno whether bleached or colored up.