Jump to content

My DIY LED conversion


Thexder
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • SRC Member

Here is my DIY on converting my existing Solite 3' from 2x150W MH to LED. Finally decided to go ahead and convert to LED after waiting for 1 year :rolleyes:

Here is the original MH on the Solite. The MH bulbs are also >1 year of use already.

post-7211-040478100 1280157913_thumb.jpg

post-7211-075732500 1280157923_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • SRC Member

The MH occupies the centre portion of the casing. It can be removed by sliding out the glass plates and aluminum panels. I got a 4mm thick aluminum plate to cover the whole centre panel. The LEDs and heatsinks will be attached to this plate.

Here is the plate with the LED positions marked out. Got the plate from Soon Lian Hardware for $15 (900 x 140mm).

post-7211-065054900 1280158101_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

My original plan was to stuff the Meanwells and heatsinks inside the Solite casing, but looks like reality is a different story. <_<

Seems that I have to house the Meanwell's in a separate project box together with a 9V transformer for the dimming controls.

post-7211-016824600 1280158459_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

The first major problem for me...

No thermal epoxy can be found in whole SLT or SLS :thumbdown: To buy the Artica thermal epoxy from USA doesn't seem worth it. The shipping cost is more than the epoxy :eyeblur: In the end RS Components sells it but have to wait 4 weeks for delivery :shock:

R155832-91.jpg

I plan to use the thermal epoxy to glue the star PCB to the aluminum plate instead of using screws. So now waiting 4 weeks...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally, I always use screws in all the LED projects I've done, whenever it is possible. Firstly, heat tranfer will be better than thermal epoxy. Secondly, it will be easier to replace or upgrade the LED when necessary. I've had LEDs damaged or deteriorated even when driven at spec with PROPER heatsinking.

But if you don't want to wait and is adventurous, I've read of people mixing thermal paste with epoxy to made their own "thermal epoxy"!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

U can use those thermal stick pad also. Can't rem the product name but RS also sell them.

Cheers

JC

It's Bond-Ply.

post-1182-049500100201281969137_thumb.gi

Knowing is not enough; we must apply. Willing is not enough; we must do. - Goethe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

Got my company workshop guy to machine the aluminum plate and acrylic splash guard. Got some PP spacers made too. Saved me quite a bit of cost since the acrylic and spacers were FOC :whistle

This weekend can start to assemble together already... :upsidedown:

post-7211-057149800 1280402560_thumb.jpg

post-7211-054137300 1280402581_thumb.jpg

post-7211-087149300 1280402593_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to check, for the driver ELN-60-48, how many 3W LED can you connect in series?

Maximum 13x3W LEDs.

post-1182-049500100201281969137_thumb.gi

Knowing is not enough; we must apply. Willing is not enough; we must do. - Goethe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share




×
×
  • Create New...