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Is cultivating plants in sump good?


JS1077
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Hi to all experts,

Am new to marine fish, heard that cultivating plants in sump had a lot of advantages. Some of my questions are:

1) My sump left with 12L x 18B x 12H" inches water space, is this enough? Which type of plant? (pls provide pictures)

2) Must I put sands and if yes, how many inches deep best? and which type of sand work best?

3) Lighting period how long? and which type of light necessary? How many kelvin and lumens? Can white LED (12") work?

4) Deep of water?

5) Is live rock necessary?

Thanks in advance! :thanks:

Click on to www.jsmarineparadise.blogspot.com to view my UnDeRwAtErWoRlD

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1. Why not? I suggest cheato... currently don't have a picture on hand, but just do a quick search on the google images and you would be able to find them.

You can of course try other macro algae, but in a nutshell, cheato is safe to cultivate coz it won't turn asexual, is able to pull out nutrients from your tank quicker than other algaes, and can also grow pods.

2. You can choose to have both DSB and Cheato, or either one, no hard and fast rule. DSB works best using grade 0 sand and at 5-6" deep.

3. You can choose to switch it on either 24/7 or do a reverse photoperiod from your tank's lighting period to balance the ph. Any normal white light should be sufficient. LED should be fine too. This one got to confirm with the lighting experts, I'm not too sure.

4. Depending on your choice to ans 2. I would say as high as possible.

5. LR is put in sump as bio filtration for bacteria to colonize. As it is bulky and your sump is small, I wouldn't recommend it.

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Comy answered perfectly liao.

I cannot even find anything to add :)

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

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Hi Bluestar,

cycling of the tank esp for newbies need at least 1 week.

Actually the longer, the better. It assures better stability of the tank.

You wouldn't want your tank to crash when you have your expensive fishes or corals in it, right? :eyebrow:

I know of a bro who did not cycle his tank at all, end up his fishes died one by one within 2 weeks. Its very frustrating and disheartening to see them to die one by one and have to restart your tank again.

Cycling of your tank is beneficial and it will go a long way for your tank and tank critters. :rolleyes:

Sorrie if i replied too late.

Main Tank: 3ft x 2ft x 2ft

Sump Tank: 2ft x 1.5ft x 1.5ft

Overflow Pump: 4500 l/hr

Lighting: T5 HO Metal Halide

Wavemaker: MP40w

Skimmer: BK Mini 200

Chiller: Arctica DBM-250 1/3hp

Phosphate Reactor: TLF Phosban 150

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yes you can. plant them. they are not corals or fishes.

chaeto are very forgiving and hardworking.

If a man could beat his own fantasy. Then to only breed in captivity. Then its pointless.

Genesis 1:20

And God said, Let the waters bring forth abundantly the moving creature that has life, and fowl that may fly above the earth in the open firmament of heaven. And God created great whales, and every living creature that moves, which the waters brought forth abundantly, after their kind, and every winged fowl after his kind: and God saw that it was good. And God blessed them, saying, Be fruitful, and multiply, and fill the waters in the seas, and let fowl multiply in the earth. And the evening and the morning were the fifth day.

|| Tank: 78" x 30" x 30" || Sump: 48" x 22" x 20" || Lights: PowerModule 10 X 80W|| Returns: 2 x HF32 ||

|| Skimmer: BubbleKing Supermarin 300 || Wavemaker: 3 x 6100 & 1 x 6200, 2 x Wavebox 6212, WavySea ||

|| FR: 2 x FR150 || NR: Sulphur Denitrator || CR: RM Custom Made 8" || KR: Deltec KM500 || TopUp: Tunze Osmolator 3155 ||

|| UV: Coralife 12X 36W || Ozonizer: Sanders C200|| Controller: GHL Profilux Plus II Ex ||

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Hi teachers,

Your advices are noted and appreciated, where can I buy cheato? Being checking around fish farms and marine shops nobody have it. Can those green color grape plant suitable? Another question regarding lighting, MH 150W 14K or 250W 14K, T5 (how many)or LED cool white work best in term of effective for SPS? My tank is a 4x2x2' with only 20" of water deep after adding C3 sands.

Thanks in advance!

:thanks::thanks:

Click on to www.jsmarineparadise.blogspot.com to view my UnDeRwAtErWoRlD

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SPS will prob need 250W MH or 8-10 tubes t5s. LEDs are a new entrant to the market and you will have to pay a premium for the LEDs that give you sufficient PAR to grow SPS. Of course it is more energy efficient and much cooler compared to MH or even T5.

Can ask in pasar malam if anyone willing to give you cheato. LFS will also have, ask politely and you might get a small bunch for free, otherwise it's actually v. cheap.

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Hi to all experts,

Am new to marine fish, heard that cultivating plants in sump had a lot of advantages. Some of my questions are:

1) My sump left with 12L x 18B x 12H" inches water space, is this enough? Which type of plant? (pls provide pictures)

2) Must I put sands and if yes, how many inches deep best? and which type of sand work best?

3) Lighting period how long? and which type of light necessary? How many kelvin and lumens? Can white LED (12") work?

4) Deep of water?

5) Is live rock necessary?

Thanks in advance! :thanks:

When planning Plant cultivation or DSB (Deep Sand bed) in sump a few things I feel critical for long run maintenance.. Normally, suggested in dedicated low flow refugium area depend to your sump design...

Analyze the current sump situation, any potential of loose plant or sand escapee from partition to return pump area? It will drop the flow efficiency in long run, worst cases scratch the pump impeller or seizes the pump in long run..

Cheers...

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Cheers and Happy Reefing....

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Can ask in pasar malam if anyone willing to give you cheato. LFS will also have, ask politely and you might get a small bunch for free, otherwise it's actually v. cheap.

yeah. There are lots of helpful reefer help. You can also pm Peter, Onizuka, Thairun if its time for them to trim their chaeto.

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

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Are maiden hair or shaving brush asexual and deem dangerous to the reef tank?

Main Tank: 3ft x 2ft x 2ft

Sump Tank: 2ft x 1.5ft x 1.5ft

Overflow Pump: 4500 l/hr

Lighting: T5 HO Metal Halide

Wavemaker: MP40w

Skimmer: BK Mini 200

Chiller: Arctica DBM-250 1/3hp

Phosphate Reactor: TLF Phosban 150

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Are maiden hair or shaving brush asexual and deem dangerous to the reef tank?

These fellas are hit or miss IMO. Sometimes they just crash and sometimes they go on like nobody's business.

Never tried them but had a friend who almost crashed his tank but luckily he managed to remove them before they totally screw up the tank. He went back with another bunch and those didn't give him probs at all.

But if you tame me, we shall need each other.

To me, you will be unique in all the world.

To you, I shall be unique in all the world...

You become responsible, forever, for what you have tamed.

-Antoine de Saint-Exupery

Keep our hobby sustainable, participate in fragging NOW

CHAETO Farmer FarmerDan.gif

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Are maiden hair or shaving brush asexual and deem dangerous to the reef tank?

If you are growing maiden hair or shaving brush for nutrient export, i will not suggest them. These are one of the tougher macroalgae to keep and are more demanding. In fact, i will even say that maiden's hair is not easy to keep.

If you are keeping them for ornamental purposes, and only have like 1 small rock of it, then if it goes sexual*, it will not hurt the tank. as the colony is just too small. i once had an entire sump of ulva go sexual and nothing died.

* btw, the act of releasing spores to potentially crash your tank is called going sexual, not asexual. As gametes (sex cells) are released, the term sexual reproduction is used. asexual reproduction is for example, fragging of macroalgae and letting the frag grow into a new colony. where the new offspring is a clone and not one with new genetic material.

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I see!! Thanks LemonLemon Bro on the correction!

I did not know that there was a difference on such terms. :thanks: :thanks:

Main Tank: 3ft x 2ft x 2ft

Sump Tank: 2ft x 1.5ft x 1.5ft

Overflow Pump: 4500 l/hr

Lighting: T5 HO Metal Halide

Wavemaker: MP40w

Skimmer: BK Mini 200

Chiller: Arctica DBM-250 1/3hp

Phosphate Reactor: TLF Phosban 150

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  • 5 months later...

If you are growing maiden hair or shaving brush for nutrient export, i will not suggest them. These are one of the tougher macroalgae to keep and are more demanding. In fact, i will even say that maiden's hair is not easy to keep.

If you are keeping them for ornamental purposes, and only have like 1 small rock of it, then if it goes sexual*, it will not hurt the tank. as the colony is just too small. i once had an entire sump of ulva go sexual and nothing died.

* btw, the act of releasing spores to potentially crash your tank is called going sexual, not asexual. As gametes (sex cells) are released, the term sexual reproduction is used. asexual reproduction is for example, fragging of macroalgae and letting the frag grow into a new colony. where the new offspring is a clone and not one with new genetic material.

Been hearing this term of sexual and asexual quite regularly in regards to macroalgae.

Could you explain to the inquisitive ones why when these plants go horny, tanks will crash?

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Been hearing this term of sexual and asexual quite regularly in regards to macroalgae.

Could you explain to the inquisitive ones why when these plants go horny, tanks will crash?

the term asexually has been wrongly used many many many times.

asexual reproduction means no gametes are release to continue and the organism reproduces by budding, or spreading etc. the offspring are clones and contain same genetic information as parents.

sexual reproduction means gametes such as sperm, eggs, spores etc are released and the offspring have NEW genetic combinations via recombinant DNA from both parents.

when macroalgae release all their gametes, they are sexually reproducing. this is bad because all these spores released will eventually die and release plenty of nutrients such as nitrate and phosphates. also, the high increase in spores will lower dissolved oxygen levels.

technically it's not serious and will not crash your tank. a simple water change and running of chiller will work. crashing of tanks will only continue if nothing is done.

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the term asexually has been wrongly used many many many times.

asexual reproduction means no gametes are release to continue and the organism reproduces by budding, or spreading etc. the offspring are clones and contain same genetic information as parents.

sexual reproduction means gametes such as sperm, eggs, spores etc are released and the offspring have NEW genetic combinations via recombinant DNA from both parents.

when macroalgae release all their gametes, they are sexually reproducing. this is bad because all these spores released will eventually die and release plenty of nutrients such as nitrate and phosphates. also, the high increase in spores will lower dissolved oxygen levels.

technically it's not serious and will not crash your tank. a simple water change and running of chiller will work. crashing of tanks will only continue if nothing is done.

would a over size skimmer do the job?

thanks for the clarifications

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  • 4 months later...

Recently the macroalgae in my refugium melted, some turned white too.

The C. sertularioides simply melted after a month.

The green grapes melted rather quickly after about a week. (apologies, I don't really know the scientific name to that)

1) Someone shared with me that it's due to the fact that they went sexual. Can someone clarify?

2) If I am looking for a suitable plant that would be rather hardy and non-horny for the purpose of nutrient export and as a home for my pods, which macros should I be looking at? (Besides cheato)

Thanks!

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