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Lighting schedule


Ketchup
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Btw, will it be ok if say, we on purple, follow by blue, then off both while MH is on, then when MH is off, blue and purple back on... but maintain same photoperiod?

i am thinking of doing this to reduce the water temperature esp when all 3 lights are on.

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Btw, will it be ok if say, we on purple, follow by blue, then off both while MH is on, then when MH is off, blue and purple back on... but maintain same photoperiod?

i am thinking of doing this to reduce the water temperature esp when all 3 lights are on.

feeling the pitch and heat? haha...if u r not keeping SPS, might want to consider changing to 150W.

l7304smr.jpg
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ya.. no sps... I think somehow the 1/4 artica is not chilling fast enough also.

Thought abt changing to 150MH but then also troublesome... as i think the ballast etc is different right?

If no choice then reduce photoperiod or use alternate lighting like what i mentioned if it can be done.

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ya.. no sps... I think somehow the 1/4 artica is not chilling fast enough also.

Thought abt changing to 150MH but then also troublesome... as i think the ballast etc is different right?

If no choice then reduce photoperiod or use alternate lighting like what i mentioned if it can be done.

Get a blower with multiple heads to help cool yr MH...qian hu got sell, or the freshwater LFS at balestier...next to Nature Aquarium...opp thomson medical centre.

l7304smr.jpg
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Btw, will it be ok if say, we on purple, follow by blue, then off both while MH is on, then when MH is off, blue and purple back on... but maintain same photoperiod?

i am thinking of doing this to reduce the water temperature esp when all 3 lights are on.

Yes it is possible.

My Setup:

3x2x2 tank with IOS

Equipment List:

Chiller: Artica 1/5HP

Chiller Pump: Sicce 4000

Return Pump: OR3500

Skimmer: Deltec APF600

Wavemaker: Tunze Wavebox/2x Hydor K2/SCWD wavemaker

Lights: DElighting 2x150W MH + 2x 39W T5 Atinic

FR: Skimz

FR Pump: Atman AT-104

Tubby ATO, Kalkweisser Reactor with magnetic stirrer.

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I am just filling this in to support your post Ketch :P

cause I dun think my inputs will help you .... haha

4 pm : only blue LEDs on

5 - 12 mn : both white and blue LEDs

12 - 1 am : only blue LEDs

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

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no leh... some how chiller not chilling fast enough... i think may try and move chiller out of cupboard (now doors open) and see how.

And don't say support me la... lots of people have different setup and photoperiod for different lighting/lifestock ma.. so good to see :)

maybe next time i change to G2 can follow ur set up!

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Get a blower with multiple heads to help cool yr MH...qian hu got sell, or the freshwater LFS at balestier...next to Nature Aquarium...opp thomson medical centre.

Already have 2 powerful fan to cool the lighting and we raise the light a bit as well.. i think it's the floor to ceiling cupboard design that traps the air and makes the water temp high...

anyway now 2 problem... one is water temp quite high... 2nd is chiller not chilling fast enough...

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drill a big nice hole to let the hot air flow out from top :)

God Blessed all who appreciate His wonderful and beautiful creations.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

my first reef aquarium 15jan2010

3x2x2ft EOS 10mm tank with sump//deltec sc2060 skimmer//arctica 1/10hp chiller

maxpect g2 170w led//vortech mp40w wavemaker//eheim 1262 universal pump

eheim compact+ 3000 chiller pump//caribsea ocean direct live sands 40lbs

and other misc...

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Already have 2 powerful fan to cool the lighting and we raise the light a bit as well.. i think it's the floor to ceiling cupboard design that traps the air and makes the water temp high...

anyway now 2 problem... one is water temp quite high... 2nd is chiller not chilling fast enough...

Yup. the floor to celling cabinet is an issue.

Even if you use LEDs, you may also face the same issue cause of the ventilation problem.

Maybe try contact Razali and see if he has any tips. (aka Dr Evil - DELightings.)

He might be able to help/ advise.

Chiller.... think you really need to change one and place it outside.

or change to a smaller sump. a lot of work :(

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

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haha... u know how.. i even ask them to do more vents.. but they say too ah beng and for top no good because of the strong light coming out.. haiz..

not vents, i mean holes on both sides (front and back view of the cabinet). Depends on how they design it, can be quite nice seeing lights out from top.

this is just an example. haha.. :lol:

post-17544-1266915030_thumb.jpg

God Blessed all who appreciate His wonderful and beautiful creations.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

my first reef aquarium 15jan2010

3x2x2ft EOS 10mm tank with sump//deltec sc2060 skimmer//arctica 1/10hp chiller

maxpect g2 170w led//vortech mp40w wavemaker//eheim 1262 universal pump

eheim compact+ 3000 chiller pump//caribsea ocean direct live sands 40lbs

and other misc...

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Yup. the floor to celling cabinet is an issue.

Even if you use LEDs, you may also face the same issue cause of the ventilation problem.

Maybe try contact Razali and see if he has any tips. (aka Dr Evil - DELightings.)

He might be able to help/ advise.

Chiller.... think you really need to change one and place it outside.

or change to a smaller sump. a lot of work :(

ya.. i think ventilation problem is a key issue... the sump area can be resolved as we can always shift the chiller outside.

I am also thinking of putting some bottles filled with ice into the sump to keep the sump (return compartment) temperature low.

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I am also thinking of putting some bottles filled with ice into the sump to keep the sump (return compartment) temperature low.

lol dun bother...... will not help much and too tedious.

Tried that 10 yrs back :P

really not feasible.

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

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ya.. i think ventilation problem is a key issue... the sump area can be resolved as we can always shift the chiller outside.

I am also thinking of putting some bottles filled with ice into the sump to keep the sump (return compartment) temperature low.

Ice bottles won't be useful at all since your tank volume is so large... :eyebrow:

My Setup:

3x2x2 tank with IOS

Equipment List:

Chiller: Artica 1/5HP

Chiller Pump: Sicce 4000

Return Pump: OR3500

Skimmer: Deltec APF600

Wavemaker: Tunze Wavebox/2x Hydor K2/SCWD wavemaker

Lights: DElighting 2x150W MH + 2x 39W T5 Atinic

FR: Skimz

FR Pump: Atman AT-104

Tubby ATO, Kalkweisser Reactor with magnetic stirrer.

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Drill a hole and place an exhaust fan there....either you call yr maker RB or sgbros to do for you...usually those ang moh reefers, they will spend money to have an exhaust system to suck out the heat like those use in kitchen...these are very pro set-up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EleyglEn9fM...feature=related

You can check out this guy's video somewhere in the 4th min...he will show his lighting exhaust system

I just find MH rather tempting to use including myself...but not practical in sgp.

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ur chiller will not work well without proper ventilation so i suggest that you open your cabinet doors to get the cold air in and the hot air out.

The same as the hood as well if you have a close hood, the hot air from the MH will be trapped and will contribute heating up your tank as well.

Not sure whats ur tank size as your chiller maybe undersize as well.....

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ur chiller will not work well without proper ventilation so i suggest that you open your cabinet doors to get the cold air in and the hot air out.

The same as the hood as well if you have a close hood, the hot air from the MH will be trapped and will contribute heating up your tank as well.

Not sure whats ur tank size as your chiller maybe undersize as well.....

Hi DE

yes, we already try our best to add fan, small exhaust fan etc.. and open the cabinet door on the chiller compartment 24/7. For the MH portion, i am really at a loss on how to do it now.

Our tank is 4ft X 2.5ft width and 2ft height.

Technically, in terms of water volume, 1/4 arctica should be fine... well, technically..

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Already have 2 powerful fan to cool the lighting and we raise the light a bit as well.. i think it's the floor to ceiling cupboard design that traps the air and makes the water temp high...

anyway now 2 problem... one is water temp quite high... 2nd is chiller not chilling fast enough...

I have this same problem. wheather i shifted 1/4 chiller inside the cabinet to open space also try a 1/3 artica chiller... temp still high and chiller working none stop during lighting period..

Just to share with you, get the return pump from the chiller to the sump which has a bigger area to cool before light on and during light off (it help a bit).

Adjust the MH lighting height higher maybe 2 to 5 inch or more depending on your tank corals, so that more area from the water surface to MH ventilation and add some fan to blow onto the MH lighting up to the ceiling.

Thanks

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Hi, these are my lighting schedule:-

White light: 16:30 to 23:30

Blue light: 20:00 to 00:30

Yesterday, I have adjusted my chiller temp to 27.5 degrees;

As I found out that it kicks in too often;

This is because my surrounding cause the water temp to increase to 28+ quite fast;

So by adjusting to 27.5 degrees, the chiller kicks in less often.

Though of course I prefer 26.5 degrees;

Nevertheless; I may change my chiller to 1/5 hp one in the near future.

Just for info, the chiller output is back to the same compartment in the sump from where the input is.

And my chiller is inside the cabinet; with a big hole at the back and occasionally, I open the top part of my cabinet to let hot air out.

Also note that my maxspect temp can go up to 49 degrees when both white and blue lights are on.

Maxspect 160w version.

(-_-) Happy will do ... (o_o)

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Hi, these are my lighting schedule:-

White light: 16:30 to 23:30

Blue light: 20:00 to 00:30

Yesterday, I have adjusted my chiller temp to 27.5 degrees;

As I found out that it kicks in too often;

This is because my surrounding cause the water temp to increase to 28+ quite fast;

So by adjusting to 27.5 degrees, the chiller kicks in less often.

Though of course I prefer 26.5 degrees;

Nevertheless; I may change my chiller to 1/5 hp one in the near future.

Just for info, the chiller output is back to the same compartment in the sump from where the input is.

And my chiller is inside the cabinet; with a big hole at the back and occasionally, I open the top part of my cabinet to let hot air out.

Also note that my maxspect temp can go up to 49 degrees when both white and blue lights are on.

Maxspect 160w version.

you blue LED is switch on for just 4 hrs.

I left mine for 8. double....

wonder if it is too long.....

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

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