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MaxSpect LED 110W - G2


jackywongto
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i've been following up on the G1 thread and from there i saw that the lifespan of the bulbs are quite short, especially the 3w ones.

does the new G2 really state 5 years for replacement or lifespan?

Yah I saw that statement too before. Not sure how long they can last.

Just like the other LEDs. No one has used CREE for 5 yrs up till now.

MaxSpect did respond on this in the china forum but I cannot make out what they are trying to say with my limited chinese skills.

But generally I think should be ok since the LEDs are driven around 700mA only.

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

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Here's the official reply from MaxSpect:

the luminous output degradation of the SemiLED white LED is about 3% every 1000 hours, the 30w LEDs is about 5% every 1000 hours. The 3w blue LED’s degradation is a bit less than the 3w white one.

===========

Hence if the light is switch on 8 hrs every day, it sums up to 2920 hrs every year. According to their spec, it will degrade about 9% every year for the white LED.

That is why they recommend changing the LED every 2 years - there will be a 18% loss by then.

This could be due to the quality of the SemiLED and not the thermal management of the unit.

I am asking about the CREE degradation. Will post here once I have a response from them.

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

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just an update.

The temperature of the LED lightset peaks at 38 deg cel after 8 hrs operation

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

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thats just about my T5 with fans on. still eagerly waiting CREE's reply on led lifespan :)

My contact is on holiday till 21st Feb.

Will update once I hear from him.

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

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Now that I have touched on the physical difference, lets proceed to the feature enhancements.

New key feature 1

The new G2 has a moonlight feature. The 4 blue LEDs automatically comes on when both the white and blue LED are switched off via the built in timers.

My moonlight was just switched on as I am typing this - so coincidental. :P

It is bright enough to let you see whats in the tank. not sure if this is too bright for the livestock but I can see some of the zoas closing already. So I guess should be ok.

one problem is that I do not know how to switch off the moonlight in the morning.

will check with MaxSpect and revert to you guys once I hear from them.

Hi Jacky,

From your picture attached, it seem like these Maxspect 's do not uses len. Am I right :rolleyes: ?

post-1182-049500100201281969137_thumb.gi

Knowing is not enough; we must apply. Willing is not enough; we must do. - Goethe

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Hi Jacky,

From your picture attached, it seem like these Maxspect 's do not uses len. Am I right :rolleyes: ?

LED guru mean LED guru.

ya right. no lens. their LED output is 120 deg.

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

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oh, mine peak at 45C, is it still ok?

Seems like a bit on the high side.

Is your light placed in an enclosed hood?

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

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yes, but two got big openings as large as the fan unit though not directly above the fan.

It seems the 2x 110w LED generate more heat than 4x 54w t5 tubes...

I think you are looking at it wrongly

- Even if there are holes on your hood, the hot air is still trapped beneath your hood. hence the higher temp.

Let me see if MaxSpect has the recommended operating temp and if 45 deg will shorten the lifespan. In the mean time, you might want to think how you can reduce the temp. Open the hood up? remove the fan and install on your hood? - Not sure if this will void your warranty or maybe just simply install another fan on the hood.

- LED is not heat-less. 2x 110W heat is not directed at the water. hence your water temp do not rise like when you are using T5s. Imo, LED still produces heat but not to the level of T5s mainly because of the built in fan. Your T5 heat is directed downwards at the water and not upwards. The water heats up the water to maybe 2 - 3 deg cel. when you open the hood, you do not feel the heat so much because the heat is trapped between the water surface level and your T5. The LED is extracting the heat upwards, hence you feel that the heat is more when you open you enclosed hood. But the water is actually much cooler. make sense?

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

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I think you are looking at it wrongly

- Even if there are holes on your hood, the hot air is still trapped beneath your hood. hence the higher temp.

Let me see if MaxSpect has the recommended operating temp and if 45 deg will shorten the lifespan. In the mean time, you might want to think how you can reduce the temp. Open the hood up? remove the fan and install on your hood? - Not sure if this will void your warranty or maybe just simply install another fan on the hood.

- LED is not heat-less. 2x 110W heat is not directed at the water. hence your water temp do not rise like when you are using T5s. Imo, LED still produces heat but not to the level of T5s mainly because of the built in fan. Your T5 heats up the water thus when you open the hood, you do not feel the heat so much. The LED is extracting the heat upwards, hence you feel that the heat is more when you open you enclosed hood.

make sense?

The maxspect also have heat sinks .... these will help to reduce the heat

and the heat will come off from the side ventilation holes.

(-_-) Happy will do ... (o_o)

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I think you are looking at it wrongly

- Even if there are holes on your hood, the hot air is still trapped beneath your hood. hence the higher temp.

Let me see if MaxSpect has the recommended operating temp and if 45 deg will shorten the lifespan. In the mean time, you might want to think how you can reduce the temp. Open the hood up? remove the fan and install on your hood? - Not sure if this will void your warranty or maybe just simply install another fan on the hood.

- LED is not heat-less. 2x 110W heat is not directed at the water. hence your water temp do not rise like when you are using T5s. Imo, LED still produces heat but not to the level of T5s mainly because of the built in fan. Your T5 heat is directed downwards at the water and not upwards. The water heats up the water to maybe 2 - 3 deg cel. when you open the hood, you do not feel the heat so much because the heat is trapped between the water surface level and your T5. The LED is extracting the heat upwards, hence you feel that the heat is more when you open you enclosed hood. But the water is actually much cooler. make sense?

Hi m12345y,

i do agree with jacky that the hot air will still linger within the hood and that contribute the high temp to your unit.....

u need to have an exhaust fan to blow out from the hood if you want it to remain close......

u can try opening the hood and check the temp after awhile as it definately be lower...

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Bro, I didn't see any G2 60W version on the website. Was it dropped? It'll be a waste, as more and more people are venturing into pico tanks. It would be a decent choice, if the LED temp and in-built timer (currently available only for 110W versions and above) are made available for the 60W.

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Bro, I didn't see any G2 60W version on the website. Was it dropped? It'll be a waste, as more and more people are venturing into pico tanks. It would be a decent choice, if the LED temp and in-built timer (currently available only for 110W versions and above) are made available for the 60W.

unfortunately there is no G2 version for 60w....and base on what i sold, most of the pico is using the 110w..hahaha

very little reefers using the 60w for their nano or pico tank....unless those 1ft cube type....but this 60w led is still good for 1.5ft cube tank.

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Hi m12345y,

i do agree with jacky that the hot air will still linger within the hood and that contribute the high temp to your unit.....

u need to have an exhaust fan to blow out from the hood if you want it to remain close......

u can try opening the hood and check the temp after awhile as it definately be lower...

Thanks Jacky & Dr Evil.

just to confirm, should the fan blow air in or out? i actually used fan to blow in but not much effect....

i've left my hood doors open these days till i got time to install/re-locate the fans

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Thanks Jacky & Dr Evil.

just to confirm, should the fan blow air in or out? i actually used fan to blow in but not much effect....

i've left my hood doors open these days till i got time to install/re-locate the fans

Should be extracting the hotair from the housing ==> blowing upwards.

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

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I think you are looking at it wrongly

- Even if there are holes on your hood, the hot air is still trapped beneath your hood. hence the higher temp.

Let me see if MaxSpect has the recommended operating temp and if 45 deg will shorten the lifespan. In the mean time, you might want to think how you can reduce the temp. Open the hood up? remove the fan and install on your hood? - Not sure if this will void your warranty or maybe just simply install another fan on the hood.

I have checked with MaxSpect. The lifespan I have indicated in my earlier post is good for temperature up to 60 deg cel.

So running at 45 will not shorten the lifespan of the LEDs but it will be good if you can try to lower it down.

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

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thats just about my T5 with fans on. still eagerly waiting CREE's reply on led lifespan :)

New update from MaxSpect:

According to the official data from Cree, the lumen maintenance of XP-G LEDs will be greater than 70% after 50000 hours.

BTW, just heard from MaxSpect that they do not provide Cree royal blue LEDs for now as CREE royal blue XP-G are not available yet.

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

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hi jacky,

how do you like the LED color compare to your previous MH?

i find the Maxspect G2s are "too white" when both blue and white are on (and my corals look so dull) and "too blue" when only blue is on that i can hardly tell the actual color...

i somewhat prefer the color tone under T5 that i used to have, i.e. 1:2:1 AquaBlue Speical / BluePlus / Actinic ATI tubes

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hi jacky,

how do you like the LED color compare to your previous MH?

i find the Maxspect G2s are "too white" when both blue and white are on (and my corals look so dull) and "too blue" when only blue is on that i can hardly tell the actual color...

i somewhat prefer the color tone under T5 that i used to have, i.e. 1:2:1 AquaBlue Speical / BluePlus / Actinic ATI tubes

That is one of the pros of using T5. you can have a diverse spectrum.

As compared to my 20k MH, both the temperature colours are about the same.

But the LED tends to give a little more florescence as compared to the MH.

Do note that for the corals, give them 3 - 4 weeks to get use to the change in light.

During this period, some of them might fade in colour.

some of my corals took alost 5 -6 weeks to colour up the last time after I swop from LED to MH

So I guess it is the same vice versa.

I can suggest that you purchase a couple of spare blue LEDs, and replace the white LEDs (maybe 2 - 3 on each set) to give your tank a more florescence look.

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

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hi jacky,

how do you like the LED color compare to your previous MH?

i find the Maxspect G2s are "too white" when both blue and white are on (and my corals look so dull) and "too blue" when only blue is on that i can hardly tell the actual color...

i somewhat prefer the color tone under T5 that i used to have, i.e. 1:2:1 AquaBlue Speical / BluePlus / Actinic ATI tubes

You need some adjustments when you switch from T5 to LED...i have the same experience as you.

You can either supplement yr LED with actinic blue T5 or fiji purple T5 or change some of the bulbs to blue.

My personal opinion: LED works better with T5.

Btw, Qian hu has brought in OT2 acadia...T5 and LED combination...its in their marine display tank.

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M12345Y bro,

I think lets wait a couple more weeks 1st and see if they acclimatise better 1st.

keep us posted.

rgds

jacky

Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System

2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way!

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