Zoapox

[jackywongto]

I suspect my zoas has contracted Zoapox.

I see white speckle of dots on its rubber outer skin.

Some of the white dots are about 1 mm diameter.

Issit zoa pox?

Any idea what is the most effective way of curing it?

Need help. Thanks.

[LaW]

furan-2 is the most effective way as far as i know.

or if its not so bad, a toothpick will help together with vit C

toothpick to poke, just like poking ur pimple.

and it can be fun poking.

all the best.

[pokmingsheng]

got a little bored from doing my online assignments,

so decided to do a little research to help u out here.. haha...

got these info from Zoaid.com

http://www.zoaid.com/articles004.php

What is Furan-2?

Thanh states: I used to be a Discus hobbyist and fungus is a common illness for these fishes. Furan-2 is often used to cure fungus and it has worked for me for many times.

Furan-2 tablets are effective against a wide variety of gram positive and gram negative bacterial diseases for freshwater and saltwater fish. This medication will cause a harmless green color in the aquarium, which can be removed with activated carbon. This medication can be used in conjunction with Aquarium Pharmaceuticals anti-parasitic medications. This medication will not harm the biological filter in fresh or saltwater aquariums.

For treatment of: Dropsy, furunculosis, gill disease, fin and tail rot and black molly disease.

Instructions (as per the manufacture):

1. Use one capsule for every 10 gallons of aquarium water

2. Wait 24 hours and repeat dose

3. Wait another 24 hours and make a 25% water change

4. Repeat this treatment for a second time for a total of 4 doses of Furan-2

5. Make a final 25% water change and add fresh activated carbon

6. Repeat if necessary

Ingredients:

Each capsule of Furan-2 contains:

* 60mg Nitrofurazone

* 25mg Furazolidone

* 2mg Methylene Blue Trihydrate

Additional requirements for treatment:

* 1 cup of RO new saltwater (Update 2009.03.30: For the sake of clarity, we have edited this article to reflect that a cup of new saltwater, non-tank water but new saltwater of appropriate salinity, is needed. This reference change has been made several times in this article, but is only commented on here.)

* 1 capsule of Furan

* 1 extra cup of Aquarium Water (this is used to wash the Zoanthids after the treatment and before they are put back into your Aquarium; I do this because I don't want to risk Furan killing any of my fish or other corals).*

*Note: Through my experiment I found out that even if you don't wash your Zoanthid before putting it back into the main tank, it will not hurt any live stock or corals, (I have tested this on my own). But I'm washing it anyway just to be on the safe side. (ZoaID.com notes: t is always a good idea to target treat infected animals vs. a global tank treatment when possible!)

PH, Temp, and Salinity Level:

Make sure you match the temp, pH, and salinity level of your RO new saltwater to your current tank before the treatment.

Procedure:

* place 1 capsule into the RO new saltwater cup and mix it good until the RO new saltwater water turns green. Put the zoa in the Furan mix and leave it for xxx minutes. I recommend at least 15 min but not more than 30 min.

* After the treatment, wash the zoas in your tank water on the other cup you had put aside. Then put the zoas back in the tank where there is a stronger flow.

*Note: Your zoa will have a green dye to its body but it is fine. The green dye should fade away in a day or two.

Do 3 treatments in a row then let it rest for 4-7 days; depending on the condition of your Zoanthids. If the ZoaPox is still on the Zoanthids then continue with another three treatments. But make sure you let it rest 4-7 days after every 3 treatments.

Temp:

Keep in mind; during the treatment I slowly increase my temp from 78 to 81-82. Furan works best in higher heat. But I would not go over 82. In freshwater I bump it up to 84-86 for Furan treatment against fungus.

Water Changes:

I also increase my water changes from 5 gal per week to 10 gal every 3 days. (This is in a 75G tank.)

*Note: I did another test on the effectiveness of water change. With water changes my Zoanthids seem to recover quicker. On the other hand, Zoanthids that receive no water changes still recover, but it just takes longer.

Recommended Instructions for long-term treatment of ZoaPox:

1st WEEK

* Day 1: 1st treatment started with 20 min dip

* Day 2: 2nd treatment started with 20 min dip

* Day 3: 3rd treatment started with 20 min dip

Let the colony rest for 1 week

*Note: If your Zoanthid has recovered and you still want to do another dip, please reduce the amount of dipping time when you do so. Also, you don't have to do another treatment if your Zoanthid is completely healed. I'm doing another treatment on mine just to make sure the ZoaPox is completely eradicated.

2nd WEEK

* Day 1: 4th treatment started with 10 min dip

* Day 2: 5th treatment started with 10 min dip

* Day 3: 6th treatment started with 10 min dip

API Furan-2 can be purchased from

http://freshnmarine.com.sg/estore/product_...roducts_id=1996

not sure about other LFS

[Terryz_]

Furan bath works well.. Each bath 20 mins... I use tank water mixed with furan... Works for me.. Continue untill the pox disappear... And it is contagious for what i experience...

[ReDDeviLs]

1st WEEK

* Day 1: 1st treatment started with 20 min dip

* Day 2: 2nd treatment started with 20 min dip

* Day 3: 3rd treatment started with 20 min dip

Let the colony rest for 1 week <---- very important.

*Note: If your Zoanthid has recovered and you still want to do another dip, please reduce the amount of dipping time when you do so. Also, you don't have to do another treatment if your Zoanthid is completely healed. I'm doing another treatment on mine just to make sure the ZoaPox is completely eradicated.

2nd WEEK

* Day 1: 4th treatment started with 10 min dip

* Day 2: 5th treatment started with 10 min dip

* Day 3: 6th treatment started with 10 min dip

[ReDDeviLs]

please handle furan2 with extra care.

they are not common in sg due to some legal issue with SG medical board. they are known to be cancerous.

you wouldnt want to cure your zoas in exchange with your health.

[jackywongto]

manage to take a photo...

Is this zoapox?

[TayHongSiang]

dun look like it...zoas like to accumulate sand particles to build their colony whereas palys do not.

[whiteice78]

manage to take a photo...

Is this zoapox?

Bro, try stirring the water around the zoos so that any loose sand comes off. If there's remaining white spots on the zoos, then most likely it is. I also had an outbreak. Fragged up my fav fijian zoos. From one whole rock now become 6 frags of 2 to 5 polyps each. Damn sad case. now my zoo corner is completely empty. shifted the salvaged frags onto a diy frag rack. Getting ready to do the furan dip.

Nano really quite challenging. I remember years ago back in school, when I was running a 5 footer, din seem ro have so much problems with the same corals, ie zoos, blastos. Now although my equiptment and all is better, the survival rate seems lower. Haiz

[Solo77]

seems like to me.....

[jackywongto]

another question, Will they wipe out the whole colony?

And after they do, will they invade other colony?

[Solo77]

yes, they can and can spread like wild fire. ..

[Terryz_]

Looks like it to me... Take it out in a separate tank... It is some sort bacteria infection from what I know and if my memory dun fail me...

And it can spread to other zoas colony.. Had this zoapox wiped out all my zoas in my tank...

[yikai]

yes this is zoapox. it is bacterial like terry mentioned, that is why only furan can kill them. they spread fast amongsts zoas except palythoas. however i notice that some zoas seem to be more resistant to pox.. others like the eagle eye complexes seem to get poxs extremely quickly.

can follow reddevils or kikobanana's suggestion. they work well. for me i'm lazy so i dip them everyday for 3-4 days with furan2 for 20 mins. stop for 2-3 days then continue the treatment until no more pox. after dipping you may see that the zoas turn slightly yellowish-greenish due to the furan and may not open up for a few days. its ok.

if the pox are so little like this now, use a sharp toothpick and poke all and then wash away in a small container of tank water. however please note that you still MUST furan them even after popping. bacterial colonies will never die from physical removal alone.

[jackywongto]

Thanks all

looks like die die need to get Furan 2 liao.

I just threw away 2 frags of badly infected ones.

.... just when I think I can afford to relax a bit ... this thing pop up....

Another big challenge!

[teebs]

Thanks all

looks like die die need to get Furan 2 liao.

I just threw away 2 frags of badly infected ones.

.... just when I think I can afford to relax a bit ... this thing pop up....

Another big challenge!

Can get Furan 2 from C328. Saw it yesterday when I was there.

[Terryz_]

Can get Furan 2 from C328. Saw it yesterday when I was there.

Be sure to check the expiry date!!! Bought one box that Had a short expiry date and didnt get to use it...

[yikai]

jacky, if the polyps are still instact, not mushy/brown/smelly, there's still hope. don't throw away because they can make a recovery. zoapox is a trouble some but managable disease.

[markietan]

action station! this things do spread like wild fire so quickly get some furan and dip it. there are many medications out there w/ furan-something but i think the only one that works is from API n it is in a blue / white box.

good luck bro, hope the other zoas ain't affected.

[jackywongto]

yup yup. getting it over the weekend.

The rest of the zoas seemed ok.

So I just dip those infected?

Those that are not, dun dip or just dip as precaution?

[Terryz_]

I would just dip the infected one...

[FuEl]

I have a feeling that one of the causes of this "zoapox" is actually oxidative stress which could be caused by sudden exposure to bright lights that the zoanthid is not accustomed to.

[ReDDeviLs]

dun look like it...zoas like to accumulate sand particles to build their colony whereas palys do not.

bro, zoas dont use accumulated sand particles to build their colony but paly do. according to report from RC

yup yup. getting it over the weekend.

The rest of the zoas seemed ok.

So I just dip those infected?

Those that are not, dun dip or just dip as precaution?

its better to give a 1 course dip or even half a course dip to those not infected ones as you do not know if they are slightly infected. some r unable to see yet but kenna already.

the pox problem have spread quite abit recently among reefers. i guess its the recent buy sell of zoas or livestock among reefers causing the zoapox to pass around.

anyway,palys dont get pox so do not have to dip them. e.g pink zoas.

[ReDDeviLs]

frm my experience on zoas, the inconsistancy in temperature and salinity and too low flow area tense to develop pox easily. temperature and salinity is the key point.

[jackywongto]

frm my experience on zoas, the inconsistancy in temperature and salinity and too low flow area tense to develop pox easily. temperature and salinity is the key point.

are they any chance that the zoas will build up enough immunity to fight off the pox on its own?

(without dipping)