Japanese-styled, USA engineered CREE LED spotlights

[Terryz_]

oops sorry bro, supposed to be reply for bro jkit

but yeah, need more for bigger tank. U could refer to the nice clean tank in the pic

Wondering how many will I need if I consider this unit...

[planula]

oops sorry bro, supposed to be reply for bro jkit

but yeah, need more for bigger tank. U could refer to the nice clean tank in the pic

Hi Bros,

sorry i may have given the wrong impression but the nice clean tank in the pic belonging to Marcello was not lit by the PAR38s but by Japanese Supakaru spotlights. However, the PAR38s were made to produce exactly the same effects.

And yes, a larger tank will require more of these units. Depending on the vertical height, one PAR38 with 40 deg optics would get u close to 12" horizontal spread. What are your tank dimensions and coral layout? Perhaps I could help?

[planula]

Wondering how many will I need if I consider this unit...

Bro Terryz, and other bros who may have the same questions

will be happy to advice if you can share some infor on your reef layout, tank dimensions and the light requirements of your tank inhabitants With that information,I can provide better advice

For example, if your reef layout is concentrated in one area roughly about 12", with lower light requirements around the edge, you could just use one if you already have diffuse lights around (eg. flourescents). Thre spotlit effects will also be dramatic.

However, if your reef layout is rather spreadout, then you may need two. It also depends on what your reef inhabitants are.

cheers

[planula]

only for small tanks. I ordered one for my nano, waiting for delivery. Seems more effective to DIY into a microchiller than just bulkhead mountinb or direct probe-dip into tank. Looking at it that's what he did I think.

Bro Poomoon,

U have a msg

[planula]

Bro planula,

interested to look at your ice probe. How is it fix to tank? Can post better pic?

Bro jkit, sure, will post a better pi when i am back. am out now, but Bro Poomoon was right about me just "probing" it into the tank from the top. It works well at maintaining my 3.5 gallon at 27 deg through the day, with a 1 degree drop in the night.

No ill efects on my tank inhabitants though. Chilling effects will be enhanced if you plumb it into the system with insulation. Cheers

[Terryz_]

Bro Terryz, and other bros who may have the same questions

will be happy to advice if you can share some infor on your reef layout, tank dimensions and the light requirements of your tank inhabitants With that information,I can provide better advice

For example, if your reef layout is concentrated in one area roughly about 12", with lower light requirements around the edge, you could just use one if you already have diffuse lights around (eg. flourescents). Thre spotlit effects will also be dramatic.

However, if your reef layout is rather spreadout, then you may need two. It also depends on what your reef inhabitants are.

cheers

Hi, I am considering LED for my new tank setup which is 3x3x2(H), Mainly Zoas and Softies... I have looked at other commercial LED such as Maxspect and LumenAqua.. 2 unit of those would add up to 1.2k -1.7k. Unless I DIY which will be less than 1k... I was thinking of using units of this...

[sherman]

Hi, I am considering LED for my new tank setup which is 3x3x2(H), Mainly Zoas and Softies... I have looked at other commercial LED such as Maxspect and LumenAqua.. 2 unit of those would add up to 1.2k -1.7k. Unless I DIY which will be less than 1k... I was thinking of using units of this...

Zoas and softies should be ok with a light intensity of 150 watt MH.(equivalent)

Most 3 watt to 7 watt leds can achieve that easily.

Try not to use 1 watt led or less.

[Terryz_]

Zoas and softies should be ok with a light intensity of 150 watt MH.(equivalent)

Most 3 watt to 7 watt leds can achieve that easily.

Try not to use 1 watt led or less.

But it is more of the spread that I am worried about...

[sherman]

The light spread depend on your led to led spacing.For 2 ft deep (height) tank a spacing of 2 to 2.5 inch is recomended.

Any thing more will result in spotting effect.

[Terryz_]

The light spread depend on your led to led spacing.For 2 ft deep (height) tank a spacing of 2 to 2.5 inch is recomended.

Any thing more will result in spotting effect.

That applies if I am DIYing.. LOL... A bit lazy to do...

[sherman]

Whether you custom make or buying off the shelf this is something you need to keep in mind.

[Terryz_]

Whether you custom make or buying off the shelf this is something you need to keep in mind.

Hmmm, Okay.. But I think kinda difficult to gauge with this PAR38 spotlight? Haha...

[sherman]

PAR 38 is the grouping of 5 leds(3watt) within a small PCB.This result in a very strong light intensities over the same area .

Hence such light cannot be place too close to the water level.

The light intensities can cook any LS within 10 inch from the light.

So we place it at least 10 inch above the tank.

This type of grouping also result in very high heat produce at the PCB side.

So a very high efficient and large heat sink is need for this type of light.

[Terryz_]

PAR 38 is the grouping of 5 leds(3watt) within a small PCB.This result in a very strong light intensities over the same area .

Hence such light cannot be place too close to the water level.

The light intensities can cook any LS within 10 inch from the light.

So we place it at least 10 inch above the tank.

This type of grouping also result in very high heat produce at the PCB side.

So a very high efficient and large heat sink is need for this type of light.

Wah.. 10 inch is quite a high leh... Hmmm... Need to reconsider, It will be out of my hood if I use this... But if I dun place any corals within 10 inch from the light, shouldnt be much of a problem right?

I think the Heat Sink is built, just whether is it effective anot?

[sherman]

Many reefers have bought in the PAR38. You can wait for their review before deciding.

I do not have PAR38 on hand so cannot ready advise.

However I am now experimenting with PAR30 now.

Watch out for this new DIY.

[planula]

Wah.. 10 inch is quite a high leh... Hmmm... Need to reconsider, It will be out of my hood if I use this... But if I dun place any corals within 10 inch from the light, shouldnt be much of a problem right?

I think the Heat Sink is built, just whether is it effective anot?

Hi Bro Terryz,

yes and yes. But IMHO, it also depends on the angle you use the spotlight. Let us not forget refraction. Angling the light and placing it straight over the tank will result in different PAR values. Even if the PAR is more than sufficient for the light requirements of light loving corals, ultimately, it may just mean that you need to turn your lights on for shorter periods.

Of course to be safe, it is best to maintain roughly a 10" distance. But please do not use these lights in an enclosed hood. The built-in high fin density heat sink is more than sufficient to handle the heat without a fan source but it cannot be enclosed. If you already have lights over your tank, these lights could either be additional supplements for trophy specimens, or as a main source (depending again on your reef config).

Hope that helps. Bro Sherman, thanks for the input too.

[Terryz_]

Hi Bro Terryz,

yes and yes. But IMHO, it also depends on the angle you use the spotlight. Let us not forget refraction. Angling the light and placing it straight over the tank will result in different PAR values. Even if the PAR is more than sufficient for the light requirements of light loving corals, ultimately, it may just mean that you need to turn your lights on for shorter periods.

Of course to be safe, it is best to maintain roughly a 10" distance. But please do not use these lights in an enclosed hood. The built-in high fin density heat sink is more than sufficient to handle the heat without a fan source but it cannot be enclosed. If you already have lights over your tank, these lights could either be additional supplements for trophy specimens, or as a main source (depending again on your reef config).

Hope that helps. Bro Sherman, thanks for the input too.

Thanks Bro Planula, I am planning to use LED as a main source but cant find one that will cover a area of 3x3 even with multiple units... I know, read your first post and the other website on this LED, that this cannot be used in a enclosed hood.. Having a open hood, the hood is just to cover the top of the tank and the lights if possible...

[Joe_P]

I'm actually considering this unit for my current setup too.

Lighting for my current setup is a 250 w MH coupled with 4 x 39 watts T5s.

Intention is to replace the 250 w with 4 of these units. keeping the T5s as additional lighting source.

Only issue is there is not much documented success of SPS with leds.

And the other issue would be the leds' ability to actually substitute the MH despite the promising data provided.

[planula]

I'm actually considering this unit for my current setup too.

Lighting for my current setup is a 250 w MH coupled with 4 x 39 watts T5s.

Intention is to replace the 250 w with 4 of these units. keeping the T5s as additional lighting source.

Only issue is there is not much documented success of SPS with leds.

And the other issue would be the leds' ability to actually substitute the MH despite the promising data provided.

Hi Bro Joe P,

saw your other post seeking advice on the efficiency of LEDs for SPS dominated setups too. I am certain that through the course of your exploration and research on LEDs, you would have come across anecdotal evidence on the efficiency of high-powered LEDs - Bro Sherman's pics and threads and others who have tested LEDs in this and other forums (check out Nanoreefs especially) provide some testament to their effectiveness.

What the PAR38 provides over other normal fixture-type LED lights is the ability to harness five of the LEDs into a very focused beam of light- though the spread can be adjusted by the height- in effect, fulfilling the function of MHs, minus the costs and heat. PAR measurements of this PAR38 LED spotlight, using Apogee quantum meters, have also indicated that the spotlights generate approximately 220 PAR from as high as 20â€, 425 PAR from 18†(through air), and roughly 130 PAR at the sand bed, based on 16†depth ( in water). Of course, empirical studies comparing LEDs and MHs by Sanjay Joshi, if and when out, would likely add further credibility to the advent of LEDs as the future of aquaria lighting.

Bro Joe P, I welcome you, and others who are interested but need further assurance, to come over to my place to see the lights for yourselves before deciding. Except that we will need to set a common date, if you are interested. Hope this helps.

Let me know? Cheers

[sherman]

Bro Joe,

The intensity of the led especially the PAR 38 is with 5 leds group together is almost equivalent to the 300 watt MH if you have 6 of them covering a 1.5 ft area.

It will cook your SPS you mount them 5 inch above the water level.

The PAR value of LED especially the high power LED use in today lighting is higher than most MH.

So no worry about led performance as compare to MH or T5.

The only worry you need is the led you get is high power led with at least 90 lm/watt, (ask for the publish spec sheet)

There are supporting lens for the led(To bring the led light all the way down to as deep as 6 ft of tank depth)

The led can run up to 1 ampere with appropariate heat dissipation.

[sherman]

Thanks Bro Planula, I am planning to use LED as a main source but cant find one that will cover a area of 3x3 even with multiple units... I know, read your first post and the other website on this LED, that this cannot be used in a enclosed hood.. Having a open hood, the hood is just to cover the top of the tank and the lights if possible...

Check with Rocky Boy.

He has a 3 ft cube power by SSC 3 watt LED.

[planula]

Hi everyone,

It seems I have forgotten to mention the fixture model in my haste, apologies, my bad. The fixture from IKEA is Tertial. Hope this makes it easier for bros and sistas to find it.

Cheers and good night.

[planula]

Bro PooMoon (Jun),

If you are reading this, thank you so much for your great support, its a pleasure knowing you. Hope your ankle heals soon.

Do post pics of your PAR38 setup soon so we can bask in its glory. If you don't mind, you can even discuss it in this thread. Happy reefing and spotlighting.

Cheers!

[poomoon]

Bro PooMoon (Jun),

If you are reading this, thank you so much for your great support, its a pleasure knowing you. Hope your ankle heals soon.

Do post pics of your PAR38 setup soon so we can bask in its glory. If you don't mind, you can even discuss it in this thread. Happy reefing and spotlighting.

Cheers!

Thank again bro, and nice meeting you and your wife. Ankle is healing, slowly ...

Here's a pic of the lamp i used (as mentioned this is existing lamp i have, just lucky that i could remove the head and plug in the PAR38 ...) i put some details about the fixture. This is also clamped in the adjacent computer table. The ikea tertial should also be ok already, since it seems sturdy and also not expensive.

On my fear of it dropping directly in the tank (though so far hasn't moved down one bit), i offset the lamp head to be just on top of one of the corners, so if it drops down, it goes smack on the tank (won't drop that strong anyway if ever). Just had to make sure i tighten the locks real hard. When not in use i can easily swing the lamp away from the tank towards the back wall.

[planula]

Thank again bro, and nice meeting you and your wife. Ankle is healing, slowly ...

Here's a pic of the lamp i used (as mentioned this is existing lamp i have, just lucky that i could remove the head and plug in the PAR38 ...) i put some details about the fixture. This is also clamped in the adjacent computer table. The ikea tertial should also be ok already, since it seems sturdy and also not expensive.

On my fear of it dropping directly in the tank (though so far hasn't moved down one bit), i offset the lamp head to be just on top of one of the corners, so if it drops down, it goes smack on the tank (won't drop that strong anyway if ever). Just had to make sure i tighten the locks real hard. When not in use i can easily swing the lamp away from the tank towards the back wall.

Thats a v nice fixture too Bro Jun even sexier than the Tertial from IKEA. Will be happy to hear your comments on the PAR38 and its realistic shimmer effects anytime. Cheers!