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Do wrasses need sandbed?


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Hmmm is there any kind of Wrasses that do not need a sand bed? Thinking of having some wrasses for my new tank which is sandless. Thanks a million. =)

5x2.5x1.5ft Rimless Dream Tank (06/03/12)
Skimmer - Reefoctupus

Return Pump - 1 x Eheim 1264, 1 x water blaster 7k
Wavemaker - 2 x mp40es
Chiller - Daikin compressor with coil drop in
Lighting - 4 x 80w T5 Pair 1(6hrs23/12/12),Pair 2(16/06/12312hrs 2 x 80w De-lighting Retrofit (1/3/12) -(15/11/12)6hrs and 2 x 80w De-lighting Retrofit (13/10/12) -6hrs)
Reactor - Dosing pump (01/01/11)


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wrasses that need sand are mainly the tamarins (family anampses), pencil wrasses (pseudojuloides), leopard wrasses (macropharyngodon), coris and halichoeres, which includes clown and yellow wrasses. they need the sand to sleep in at night and to feel secure when threatened. they dive into the sand.

for wrasses that do not need sand bed and are reef safe, go for fairy wrasses (cirrhilabrus), flasher wrasses (paracheilinus) and the lined wrasses. which includes six line, mystery etc.

so please avoid leopards, pencil wrasses, halichoeres, coris, and anampses. do a search on these family and you will know more about them.

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Oh i see, thanks for the fast reply. =) but for the fairy wrasses (cirrhilabrus), flasher wrasses (paracheilinus) and the lined wrasses. which includes six line, mystery etc, r they easy to feed? Cause me like no luck with wrasses everytime i bought wrasses, the next day will be on my sump filter wool. super sad. no chance to get it to feed. haiz =(

5x2.5x1.5ft Rimless Dream Tank (06/03/12)
Skimmer - Reefoctupus

Return Pump - 1 x Eheim 1264, 1 x water blaster 7k
Wavemaker - 2 x mp40es
Chiller - Daikin compressor with coil drop in
Lighting - 4 x 80w T5 Pair 1(6hrs23/12/12),Pair 2(16/06/12312hrs 2 x 80w De-lighting Retrofit (1/3/12) -(15/11/12)6hrs and 2 x 80w De-lighting Retrofit (13/10/12) -6hrs)
Reactor - Dosing pump (01/01/11)


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they are shy and get stress easily.....plan your sequence in buying and be patience...start from the most shy one.....carpenter flahser, etc. Last to put will be those line family wrasse. : )

Tank : 4 X 2 X 2 with low iron front panel and external overflow

Skimmer : BK SM200 with waste collector

Return Pumps : Red Dragon 6m3 and Ehiem 1262

FR : 2 X Deltec 509 & powered by AB2000

Nitrate Filter : Deltec NF 509 and tee off from AB2000

Calcium R'tor : Deltec PF 501 with RM secondary chamber

Kalkwasser R'tor : Deltec KM500

Chiller : Pansonic 1 HP Compressor with 20m titanium Coil

Wave Makers : 4 X Tunze 6055 with 7096 & Vortec MP40w

Controller : GHL Profilux

Lighting : ATI Powermodule 10 or 8 tubes

Water Top-up : Water Top-Up tank powered by Tunze Osmolator

External Monitor : American Pinpoint pH and Temp. Monitor for main tank and GHL Profilux Controller to measure temp, pH, Redox

Ozonizer : Sander C50

UV : Corallife 6x

Algae Scrubbler

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Oh i see, thanks for the fast reply. =) but for the fairy wrasses (cirrhilabrus), flasher wrasses (paracheilinus) and the lined wrasses. which includes six line, mystery etc, r they easy to feed? Cause me like no luck with wrasses everytime i bought wrasses, the next day will be on my sump filter wool. super sad. no chance to get it to feed. haiz =(

I have not had any difficulty feeding cirrhilabrus . They even feed pellets in the plasticbag when I'm acclimatizing them!

I tend to introduce them into my beta box first. Make sure they are healthy, and eating normally. Let them build up their confidence before letting them out into the tank at night when it's dark. I believe whether they jump depends quite alot on your tank inhabitants. (Although they are quite easily spooked)

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Right. Wrasses are "jumper" by nature. They can be stable and feeding but will still do the jump occasionally when threaten.

Since u mention they alwasy lend in your sump. Assuming, you had a covered tank, You may want to do something to your overflow to prevent them from jumping into.

E.g. Putting up meshes over the overflow area.

Tom

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i had the same problem with you. wrasses always jumping. thomas lim's advice is very good and ever since i implemented it, not even a single loss from jumping.

get a hood made out of eggcrates. if u wan to play safe, cover the egg crate with mesh netting to prevent smaller ones from jumping. do note that a cover will reduce ur lighting by about 30-50% depending on how thick or opaque ur cover is.

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they are shy and get stress easily.....plan your sequence in buying and be patience...start from the most shy one.....carpenter flahser, etc. Last to put will be those line family wrasse. : )

I see, but can i add 2-3 capenter flasher together? or i need to add one by one? thanks.

I have not had any difficulty feeding cirrhilabrus . They even feed pellets in the plasticbag when I'm acclimatizing them!

I tend to introduce them into my beta box first. Make sure they are healthy, and eating normally. Let them build up their confidence before letting them out into the tank at night when it's dark. I believe whether they jump depends quite alot on your tank inhabitants. (Although they are quite easily spooked)

Oh i see, hmmm will follow what u do. Thanks. =)

Right. Wrasses are "jumper" by nature. They can be stable and feeding but will still do the jump occasionally when threaten.

Since u mention they alwasy lend in your sump. Assuming, you had a covered tank, You may want to do something to your overflow to prevent them from jumping into.

E.g. Putting up meshes over the overflow area.

yup my previous tank r not covered. hee okok will try to add meshes over the overflow area, hmmm u got any picture to show how this is done? Thanks.=p

i had the same problem with you. wrasses always jumping. thomas lim's advice is very good and ever since i implemented it, not even a single loss from jumping.

get a hood made out of eggcrates. if u wan to play safe, cover the egg crate with mesh netting to prevent smaller ones from jumping. do note that a cover will reduce ur lighting by about 30-50% depending on how thick or opaque ur cover is.

i see, but if i used plastic meshes instead, the lighting should not reduce by so much correct? cause plastic mesh is much thinner compare to egg crate with mesh netting. Thanks

5x2.5x1.5ft Rimless Dream Tank (06/03/12)
Skimmer - Reefoctupus

Return Pump - 1 x Eheim 1264, 1 x water blaster 7k
Wavemaker - 2 x mp40es
Chiller - Daikin compressor with coil drop in
Lighting - 4 x 80w T5 Pair 1(6hrs23/12/12),Pair 2(16/06/12312hrs 2 x 80w De-lighting Retrofit (1/3/12) -(15/11/12)6hrs and 2 x 80w De-lighting Retrofit (13/10/12) -6hrs)
Reactor - Dosing pump (01/01/11)


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plastic mesh net, the smaller the holes the more lighting it blocks out. and see what colour ur netting. anything except transparent will block light out too.

don't add so many of the same wrasse together. unless its 1 male and the rest females, or all females. males will fight. if u add all females, 1 may turn male.

some female fairy wrasses are hard to find since females are usually much much duller in colouration compared to males. thus not many lfs bring them in. for example, scott's fairy, exquisite etc, the females are rarer than the males.

some other wrasses like rhomboid, females more common. because they are rare and not many males can be caught, so females are often sold together with some males

usually people just add males but of different species to have a mix.

my comments are based on my personal experience in LFS. some of you might have seen more female than males, but generally, males more commonly found

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in conclusion

wrasse darn easy to feed till to their greedy nature. wrasse have a greedy meaning in latin

and also because of their greedy nature, they tend to eat even when they are not feeling too well. and when you realise that its not feeding, it might be a little too late.

and they get stressed easily, and very subtainable to bacteria infection.

so watch up for that

If a man could beat his own fantasy. Then to only breed in captivity. Then its pointless.

Genesis 1:20

And God said, Let the waters bring forth abundantly the moving creature that has life, and fowl that may fly above the earth in the open firmament of heaven. And God created great whales, and every living creature that moves, which the waters brought forth abundantly, after their kind, and every winged fowl after his kind: and God saw that it was good. And God blessed them, saying, Be fruitful, and multiply, and fill the waters in the seas, and let fowl multiply in the earth. And the evening and the morning were the fifth day.

|| Tank: 78" x 30" x 30" || Sump: 48" x 22" x 20" || Lights: PowerModule 10 X 80W|| Returns: 2 x HF32 ||

|| Skimmer: BubbleKing Supermarin 300 || Wavemaker: 3 x 6100 & 1 x 6200, 2 x Wavebox 6212, WavySea ||

|| FR: 2 x FR150 || NR: Sulphur Denitrator || CR: RM Custom Made 8" || KR: Deltec KM500 || TopUp: Tunze Osmolator 3155 ||

|| UV: Coralife 12X 36W || Ozonizer: Sanders C200|| Controller: GHL Profilux Plus II Ex ||

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in conclusion

wrasse darn easy to feed till to their greedy nature. wrasse have a greedy meaning in latin

and also because of their greedy nature, they tend to eat even when they are not feeling too well. and when you realise that its not feeding, it might be a little too late.

and they get stressed easily, and very subtainable to bacteria infection.

so watch up for that

agreed. deeper water species like flame, rhomboid, lineatus all very prone to dying mysteriously. they are too delicate and don't take shipping well sometimes. easily stress and get diseased quite readily.

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and they get stressed easily, and very subtainable to bacteria infection.

Really do watch out for this. Many bros here got lots of heartbreak due to this.

I would prefer to add wrasses 1 at a time and monitor them in the beta box for at least 1-2 weeks before letting them into main tank, but tt's just me being kiasu after my singular bad experience.

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Really do watch out for this. Many bros here got lots of heartbreak due to this.

I would prefer to add wrasses 1 at a time and monitor them in the beta box for at least 1-2 weeks before letting them into main tank, but tt's just me being kiasu after my singular bad experience.

i believe heartbreak doesnt even begin to describe it. lost my first rhomboid due to this and already felt like #$@#%. imagine the pain all those big time wrasse players endure.

that being said, shallower water species tend to fare much better. all other wrasses except rhomboid, lineatus and flame tend to be more hardy IME, feed readily, and adapt very very well to aquarium life.

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plastic mesh net, the smaller the holes the more lighting it blocks out. and see what colour ur netting. anything except transparent will block light out too.

don't add so many of the same wrasse together. unless its 1 male and the rest females, or all females. males will fight. if u add all females, 1 may turn male.

some female fairy wrasses are hard to find since females are usually much much duller in colouration compared to males. thus not many lfs bring them in. for example, scott's fairy, exquisite etc, the females are rarer than the males.

some other wrasses like rhomboid, females more common. because they are rare and not many males can be caught, so females are often sold together with some males

usually people just add males but of different species to have a mix.

my comments are based on my personal experience in LFS. some of you might have seen more female than males, but generally, males more commonly found

I see, will try to find a suitable plastics mesh netting. i think i will add one by one then. =) hmmm btw do wrasses have a standard market price? and for different flasher wrasses the price will be different also, can pm me roughly what is the market price range for different, flasher n fairy wrasses? Thanks. =)

in conclusion

wrasse darn easy to feed till to their greedy nature. wrasse have a greedy meaning in latin

and also because of their greedy nature, they tend to eat even when they are not feeling too well. and when you realise that its not feeding, it might be a little too late.

and they get stressed easily, and very subtainable to bacteria infection.

so watch up for that

ok point taken, my tank come today le, so after cycle for 2 weeks, will go and buy wrasses. =p

5x2.5x1.5ft Rimless Dream Tank (06/03/12)
Skimmer - Reefoctupus

Return Pump - 1 x Eheim 1264, 1 x water blaster 7k
Wavemaker - 2 x mp40es
Chiller - Daikin compressor with coil drop in
Lighting - 4 x 80w T5 Pair 1(6hrs23/12/12),Pair 2(16/06/12312hrs 2 x 80w De-lighting Retrofit (1/3/12) -(15/11/12)6hrs and 2 x 80w De-lighting Retrofit (13/10/12) -6hrs)
Reactor - Dosing pump (01/01/11)


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hmmm btw do wrasses have a standard market price? and for different flasher wrasses the price will be different also, can pm me roughly what is the market price range for different, flasher n fairy wrasses? Thanks. =)

wrasses more or less standard price. most flashers are very cheap. costing less than 1 red note to more. depending on location too.

fairy wrasses are more expensive. cheap ones like solar wrasses, lubbock, yellow fin, whip fin, blue sided, etc cost between 1-2 red notes usually? found in indo shipments.

the moderately priced ones from 5 red notes onwards are exquisite, scotts, pylei, pink margin, rosyscales etc.

and for the expensive ones we have fishes like rhomboid, lineatus, flame wrasses etc. expect to pay more than 15 red notes for a rhomboid.

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wrasses more or less standard price. most flashers are very cheap. costing less than 1 red note to more. depending on location too.

fairy wrasses are more expensive. cheap ones like solar wrasses, lubbock, yellow fin, whip fin, blue sided, etc cost between 1-2 red notes usually? found in indo shipments.

the moderately priced ones from 5 red notes onwards are exquisite, scotts, pylei, pink margin, rosyscales etc.

and for the expensive ones we have fishes like rhomboid, lineatus, flame wrasses etc. expect to pay more than 15 red notes for a rhomboid.

I see. Thanks. =)

Must learn to differentiate between males and females. Males generally command a much higher price due to their nicer colours and 'flashing' ability. You wouldn't wanna be charged a female at male price.

Oh u mean the price will be different for male n female? Hmm then must really follow u all to chiong farm le, then u all can teach me how to differentiate, hee look almost the same to me. noob in wrasses. lol.

oh btw, prices differ from shop to shop. so take ur time look around and do a list if u like.

hee so where to get the cheapest wrasses. =p

5x2.5x1.5ft Rimless Dream Tank (06/03/12)
Skimmer - Reefoctupus

Return Pump - 1 x Eheim 1264, 1 x water blaster 7k
Wavemaker - 2 x mp40es
Chiller - Daikin compressor with coil drop in
Lighting - 4 x 80w T5 Pair 1(6hrs23/12/12),Pair 2(16/06/12312hrs 2 x 80w De-lighting Retrofit (1/3/12) -(15/11/12)6hrs and 2 x 80w De-lighting Retrofit (13/10/12) -6hrs)
Reactor - Dosing pump (01/01/11)


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Really do watch out for this. Many bros here got lots of heartbreak due to this.

I would prefer to add wrasses 1 at a time and monitor them in the beta box for at least 1-2 weeks before letting them into main tank, but tt's just me being kiasu after my singular bad experience.

ya i believe for me my biggest mistakes was learning to like wrasse , end up seeing so many of them die for no reason , even feeding them metrodinazole doesnt help most of the time

Mix Reef Tank: 5ft x 2.5ft x 2ft mixed reef

Chiller: daikin 1hp compressor

Return: Red Dragon 6.5m3

Lighting: Aqua Lumen Ocean 4ft

Skimmer: Reef Octopus RO-RPS-5000-EXT w/ Bubble Blaster

CR: RM 824 /milwakee PH controller

Tunze TS24 with 7096

Tunze Osmolator

American Pinpoint PH monitor

American Pinpoint ORP Monitor with Resun Ozone

RM sulphur denitrator

RM FR 424

RM FR 624

TLF Phosban Reactor

My old tank thread

469748_10150741487628605_529506809_o_zps36d5c396.jpg

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ah beng and CF.....: )

Tank : 4 X 2 X 2 with low iron front panel and external overflow

Skimmer : BK SM200 with waste collector

Return Pumps : Red Dragon 6m3 and Ehiem 1262

FR : 2 X Deltec 509 & powered by AB2000

Nitrate Filter : Deltec NF 509 and tee off from AB2000

Calcium R'tor : Deltec PF 501 with RM secondary chamber

Kalkwasser R'tor : Deltec KM500

Chiller : Pansonic 1 HP Compressor with 20m titanium Coil

Wave Makers : 4 X Tunze 6055 with 7096 & Vortec MP40w

Controller : GHL Profilux

Lighting : ATI Powermodule 10 or 8 tubes

Water Top-up : Water Top-Up tank powered by Tunze Osmolator

External Monitor : American Pinpoint pH and Temp. Monitor for main tank and GHL Profilux Controller to measure temp, pH, Redox

Ozonizer : Sander C50

UV : Corallife 6x

Algae Scrubbler

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ah beng and CF.....: )

hee okok point take. thanks. =p

5x2.5x1.5ft Rimless Dream Tank (06/03/12)
Skimmer - Reefoctupus

Return Pump - 1 x Eheim 1264, 1 x water blaster 7k
Wavemaker - 2 x mp40es
Chiller - Daikin compressor with coil drop in
Lighting - 4 x 80w T5 Pair 1(6hrs23/12/12),Pair 2(16/06/12312hrs 2 x 80w De-lighting Retrofit (1/3/12) -(15/11/12)6hrs and 2 x 80w De-lighting Retrofit (13/10/12) -6hrs)
Reactor - Dosing pump (01/01/11)


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