MaxSpect Aquarium LED Lighting

[comycus]

Check out this new set available at DELightings: http://delightings.com/index.cfm?GPID=30 (Jacky hope you don't mind a repeat post here, easier to view)

Hope it sets the bar for more affordable LEDs in future! But first, would like to invite the LED gurus to give us their opinions.

The 110W unit has the following specs:

LED Source : 18PCS x 3W White LED, 18PCS x 3W Blue LED(SemiLED Chips)

Brightness : 3W White LED - 160LM/PC, 3W Blue LED - 40LM/PC

Color Temperture & Wavelength : 3W White LED (10000K), 3W Blue LED(450nm)

Input Voltage : 220V

Power Consumption : 110W

Diamension : 400*180*45mm

Additional details:

- Does not contain any UV light on biological absolute security

- Specific 450nm wavelength blue light, the light needed to simulate the coral growth and promote coral growth.

- All-in-time switch setting, white & blue lamp can be separately controlled

- Temperature real-time detection showed, high temperature alarm, high temperature automatically turn off the lights (60-degree alarm, auto of above 70-degrees)

- All external power supply, lamp only through low-voltage DC, for aquarium biological and human security

- Fashion, simple, compact Design. To subvert the traditional lamp awkward appearance, large volume.

- Integrated aluminum radiator light body, with the dual-ball bearing fans, provide adequate cooling for LED.

[poomoon]

Check out this new set available at DELightings: http://delightings.com/index.cfm?GPID=30 (Jacky hope you don't mind a repeat post here, easier to view)

Hope it sets the bar for more affordable LEDs in future! But first, would like to invite the LED gurus to give us their opinions.

The 110W unit has the following specs:

LED Source : 18PCS x 3W White LED, 18PCS x 3W Blue LED(SemiLED Chips)

Brightness : 3W White LED - 160LM/PC, 3W Blue LED - 40LM/PC

Color Temperture & Wavelength : 3W White LED (10000K), 3W Blue LED(450nm)

Input Voltage : 220V

Power Consumption : 110W

Diamension : 400*180*45mm

Additional details:

- Does not contain any UV light on biological absolute security

- Specific 450nm wavelength blue light, the light needed to simulate the coral growth and promote coral growth.

- All-in-time switch setting, white & blue lamp can be separately controlled

- Temperature real-time detection showed, high temperature alarm, high temperature automatically turn off the lights (60-degree alarm, auto of above 70-degrees)

- All external power supply, lamp only through low-voltage DC, for aquarium biological and human security

- Fashion, simple, compact Design. To subvert the traditional lamp awkward appearance, large volume.

- Integrated aluminum radiator light body, with the dual-ball bearing fans, provide adequate cooling for LED.

isn't this the one that Jacky just got ?

[comycus]

Pics found online:

[comycus]

isn't this the one that Jacky just got ?

Yes, would like to invite the LED gurus to discuss more about this new product. Looks exciting, and I'm sure everyone would like to know if this is a feasible product I'm very impressed by the design, cost of this product and their 18 month warranty.

My concern is their optics (apparantly they use 120 degree optics). My rudimentary knowledge is that it is sufficient for nano tanks (up to 12") but without at least 60 degree optics, I'm wondering if the light penetration is enough for my 24" tank? My tank is LPS/Softies coral. And for bros keeping SPS, what's the feasibility?

A quick search at nano-reefs for maxspect also shows what the LED folks over the other side think.

[comycus]

Some interesting information combing through Chinese forums (http://www.cmfish.com/BBS/viewthread.php?tid=62069):

Proposed LED replacement period:

30w white LEDs - every 18 months (Available in their 160W & 180W models)

3w white LEDs - every 24 months

3w blue LEDs - every 30 months

LED Life:

When running white leds under conditions of 50 degrees in the aluminum heat sink, every thousandth hours result in a drop in performance of ~3%. Following a 10 hour daily lighting regime, annual performance (3650 hours) decline is estimated ay ~11%, and within three years, 33 %.

Manufacturer later claimed that this was the worst case scenario, given their current testing over a 5 month period did not result in any drop in efficiency levels. Manufacturer also claims that they will not commit to the norm of LEDs running for 5 years without loss in efficiency unless the aluminium heat sinks are run at 20 degrees, which is impossible.

more food for thought... Somebody please enlighten me!

btw my chinese translation is not tt fantastic, maybe I misinterpreted some stuff along the way...

[zorden]

Yes, do discuss more on this LED light. The price look decent but just need affirmation for its performance.

[zorden]

btw the item look very nice...

[poomoon]

Some interesting information combing through Chinese forums (http://www.cmfish.com/BBS/viewthread.php?tid=62069):

Proposed LED replacement period:

30w white LEDs - every 18 months (Available in their 160W & 180W models)

3w white LEDs - every 24 months

3w blue LEDs - every 30 months

LED Life:

When running white leds under conditions of 50 degrees in the aluminum heat sink, every thousandth hours result in a drop in performance of ~3%. Following a 10 hour daily lighting regime, annual performance (3650 hours) decline is estimated ay ~11%, and within three years, 33 %.

Manufacturer later claimed that this was the worst case scenario, given their current testing over a 5 month period did not result in any drop in efficiency levels. Manufacturer also claims that they will not commit to the norm of LEDs running for 5 years without loss in efficiency unless the aluminium heat sinks are run at 20 degrees, which is impossible.

more food for thought... Somebody please enlighten me!

btw my chinese translation is not tt fantastic, maybe I misinterpreted some stuff along the way...

70% lumen maintenance is typically acceptable within 20,000 hours of use, for general lighting, 80% for more stringent requirements. Hi-LEDs are at around 3-5% lumens maintenance drop every ~5,000 hours of use. it would also depend on the ambient and lighted temperature conditions in the system, of course higher temperatures will degrade this performance further. -- just quote from my BF

[comycus]

70% lumen maintenance is typically acceptable within 20,000 hours of use, for general lighting, 80% for more stringent requirements. Hi-LEDs are at around 3-5% lumens maintenance drop every ~5,000 hours of use. it would also depend on the ambient and lighted temperature conditions in the system, of course higher temperatures will degrade this performance further. -- just quote from my BF

wow ok so translating to this set, it translate to 20-33% performance efficiency compared to a quality hi-led that is properly cooled?

Maybe tt's why they recommended changing bulbs every 2 years compared to the normal 5 years? If tt's the explanation, then it's quite reasonable, and in line with the more affordable pricing.

[poomoon]

Yes, would like to invite the LED gurus to discuss more about this new product. Looks exciting, and I'm sure everyone would like to know if this is a feasible product I'm very impressed by the design, cost of this product and their 18 month warranty.

My concern is their optics (apparantly they use 120 degree optics). My rudimentary knowledge is that it is sufficient for nano tanks (up to 12") but without at least 60 degree optics, I'm wondering if the light penetration is enough for my 24" tank? My tank is LPS/Softies coral. And for bros keeping SPS, what's the feasibility?

A quick search at nano-reefs for maxspect also shows what the LED folks over the other side think.

120 degree optics will be over 85% transmission. below 90 degrees will give over 90% transmission. consider light deminishing with depth (due to scatter/ bending / diffusion) but normally this is in "metres", so probably not much for the aquarium tank - also from my BF

[poomoon]

wow ok so translating to this set, it translate to 20-33% performance efficiency compared to a quality hi-led that is properly cooled?

Maybe tt's why they recommended changing bulbs every 2 years compared to the normal 5 years? If tt's the explanation, then it's quite reasonable, and in line with the more affordable pricing.

yup, typically manufacturers will claim lumens maintenance of up to 20,000 to 50,000 hours, considering ideal conditions. but we know in reality a lot of other factors step in

[comycus]

120 degree optics will be over 85% transmission. below 90 degrees will give over 90% transmission. consider light deminishing with depth (due to scatter/ bending / diffusion) but normally this is in "metres", so probably not much for the aquarium tank - also from my BF

The concern is on diminishing PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation) values that is needed for corals growth. Can clarify this diminishing transmission thingy that your bf is explaining? I dunno how to explain, need one of the experts here to explain properly actually.

[jc85]

Not able to find the spec sheet for "USA Semiled Chip". One thing for sure, a 3W LED giving 160lms is most probably overdrove. Not too sure if using Blue LED is the best mix. Most DIY done are using royal blue LED.

Cheers

JC

[comycus]

Not able to find the spec sheet for "USA Semiled Chip". One thing for sure, a 3W LED giving 160lms is most probably overdrove. Not too sure if using Blue LED is the best mix. Most DIY done are using royal blue LED.

Cheers

JC

This is what can be found from the company website:

http://www.semileds.com/LED_Chips_SemiLEDs.htm

[poomoon]

The concern is on diminishing PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation) values that is needed for corals growth. Can clarify this diminishing transmission thingy that your bf is explaining? I dunno how to explain, need one of the experts here to explain properly actually.

hehe, sorry my BF also no expert, just sharing his 2 cents, he used to work in optics engineering . the PAR you mentioned is related to wavelength and transmissibility that the plants need to start photosynthesis. water even a very clear one can reduce even 50% or more, but usually this is talking about great depths (say 20-30m), but also depends on the wavelength. blue light is normally used since it has a short wavelength and typically decrease maybe less than 1% in clear water about 1m depth. in salt water, you have all these particles plus the surface itself which adds to deminishing transmission. Plus how high is your fixture from the water level is, which is more on transmission coverage.

[jc85]

For some reason, the white LED are not listed.

JC

[comycus]

hehe, sorry my BF also no expert, just sharing his 2 cents, he used to work in optics engineering . the PAR you mentioned is related to wavelength and transmissibility that the plants need to start photosynthesis. water even a very clear one can reduce even 50% or more, but usually this is talking about great depths (say 20-30m), but also depends on the wavelength. blue light is normally used since it has a short wavelength and typically decrease maybe less than 1% in clear water about 1m depth. in salt water, you have all these particles plus the surface itself which adds to deminishing transmission. Plus how high is your fixture from the water level is, which is more on transmission coverage.

Thx for clarifying. That's why I'm concerned with their use of optics. Coz based on some of the experts over at nano-reefs, barring other factors, a 3W LED running at 60 degree optics produce comparable PAR readings to 150W mh, and 45 degree optics for 250W mh.

Where are our local LED gurus? hope 1 by 1 all come in

[jc85]

I wonder without Lens, what is the max degree possible for the LEDs. Most brands I know of are below 100degree viewable. If so, by using a lens of 120degree, isn't that reducing the intensity?

Hmm....

JC

[comycus]

Another chinese website on comparison of the lights with t5s and mh.

http://www.cmfish.com/bbs/viewthread.php?t...;extra=page%3D1

too lazy to translate, can use babelfish

[Terryz_]

Wah... News spread fast.. I saw this on a HK online LFS..

[poomoon]

Thx for clarifying. That's why I'm concerned with their use of optics. Coz based on some of the experts over at nano-reefs, barring other factors, a 3W LED running at 60 degree optics produce comparable PAR readings to 150W mh, and 45 degree optics for 250W mh.

Where are our local LED gurus? hope 1 by 1 all come in

not sure about the wattage comparison, i assume this is taken across time. since if you compare MH and LED maintenance, the % degradation for MH is about 30 degrees slope declining based on a certain operating life (so about 70% maintenance), well as for LED you would only see less than 1-2 %, thus in average you are transmitting more. that is also why across the same time, due to the output drop, the MH output (even originally higher than LED) will be equivalent or even lower than the LED output.

[comycus]

not sure about the wattage comparison, i assume this is taken across time. since if you compare MH and LED maintenance, the % degradation for MH is about 30 degrees slope declining based on a certain operating life (so about 70% maintenance), well as for LED you would only see less than 1-2 %, thus in average you are transmitting more. that is also why across the same time, due to the output drop, the MH output (even originally higher than LED) will be equivalent or even lower than the LED output.

Comparison is done time specific, not over a period. To clarify further, an array of 3W LEDs with the proper optics can match/better PAR output values of MH.

[poomoon]

Comparison is done time specific, not over a period. To clarify further, an array of 3W LEDs with the proper optics can match/better PAR output values of MH.

haha, time specific - period >> meant the same. yes, i think it's because of what i mentioned above. and of course, LED's cooler ... not only temperature, also how they look

[poomoon]

jbj also coming out with LEDs

Product Name: 28g Nano Cube - LED - available December 2009

Integrated Cooling System

24 Hour Light Cycles

Our new canopy offers around the clock illumination all powered by individual power cords

•Daylight – 25 x 3 Watt – 14K

•Dawn/Dusk – 4 x 3 Watt – Actinic/466nm

•Moon – 2 x 1 Watt – Nite-Vu/456nm

[comycus]

haha, time specific - period >> meant the same. yes, i think it's because of what i mentioned above. and of course, LED's cooler ... not only temperature, also how they look

I thought you meant comparing both of them over time? I meant the tests were taken at specific points in time, not averaged out over a period of time?

nvm... but I do agree with bro jc85. If they are not using royal blue and normal blue, there will be a marked difference. I love how royal blue brings out my coral's fluorescence