jackywongto Posted December 7, 2009 Author Share Posted December 7, 2009 25 Nov Test result salinity 1.025 PH 8.0 - 8.45 KH = 7 ammonia 0 nitrite 0 phosphate - between 0 - 0.5 I really cannot differentiate the colour. nitrate 10ppm. Strange.. where is this coming from. So lightly stocked. Calcium 420 - great. Will try to increase this to approx 450. Magnesium only 1100. 8 Dec Test Result Salinity 1.025 PH: 8.0 - 8.37 KH = 8 (increased by 1) ammonia, nitrite = 0 Phosphate = 0 Nitrate = 5ppm (dropped despite higher stocking level. Did the clams played a part?) Cal 420 (maintained) Mg 1150. ( I have been dosing very conservatively. Guess I can increase to the reccommended dosage amount 15 - 20ml per 20 gallon) Looking at the reading on the 8 Dec, does that mean I can space out my WC to another week longer? Pls advise, gurus. Quote Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System 2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member teebs Posted December 7, 2009 SRC Member Share Posted December 7, 2009 25 Nov Test resultsalinity 1.025 PH 8.0 - 8.45 KH = 7 ammonia 0 nitrite 0 phosphate - between 0 - 0.5 I really cannot differentiate the colour. nitrate 10ppm. Strange.. where is this coming from. So lightly stocked. Calcium 420 - great. Will try to increase this to approx 450. Magnesium only 1100. 8 Dec Test Result Salinity 1.025 PH: 8.0 - 8.37 KH = 8 (increased by 1) ammonia, nitrite = 0 Phosphate = 0 Nitrate = 5ppm (dropped despite higher stocking level. Did the clams played a part?) Cal 420 (maintained) Mg 1150. ( I have been dosing very conservatively. Guess I can increase to the reccommended dosage amount 15 - 20ml per 20 gallon) Looking at the reading on the 8 Dec, does that mean I can space out my WC to another week longer? Pls advise, gurus. Well, based on your readings, yes you can. Nitrate levels may have dropped due to your using of the sea squirt for feeding which means more efficient feeding. Quote My Setup: 3x2x2 tank with IOS Equipment List: Chiller: Artica 1/5HP Chiller Pump: Sicce 4000 Return Pump: OR3500 Skimmer: Deltec APF600 Wavemaker: Tunze Wavebox/2x Hydor K2/SCWD wavemaker Lights: DElighting 2x150W MH + 2x 39W T5 Atinic FR: Skimz FR Pump: Atman AT-104 Tubby ATO, Kalkweisser Reactor with magnetic stirrer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member TayHongSiang Posted December 8, 2009 SRC Member Share Posted December 8, 2009 25 Nov Test resultsalinity 1.025 PH 8.0 - 8.45 KH = 7 ammonia 0 nitrite 0 phosphate - between 0 - 0.5 I really cannot differentiate the colour. nitrate 10ppm. Strange.. where is this coming from. So lightly stocked. Calcium 420 - great. Will try to increase this to approx 450. Magnesium only 1100. 8 Dec Test Result Salinity 1.025 PH: 8.0 - 8.37 KH = 8 (increased by 1) ammonia, nitrite = 0 Phosphate = 0 Nitrate = 5ppm (dropped despite higher stocking level. Did the clams played a part?) Cal 420 (maintained) Mg 1150. ( I have been dosing very conservatively. Guess I can increase to the reccommended dosage amount 15 - 20ml per 20 gallon) Looking at the reading on the 8 Dec, does that mean I can space out my WC to another week longer? Pls advise, gurus. Some nitrate is good for mushrooms and yr LPS...they need some nutrients..unless u intend to keep lots of SPS. For yr nano size, you have to do alternate day 5% water change instead of weekly 10%-20% water change as this will cause the water parameters and temp to change drastically. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackywongto Posted December 8, 2009 Author Share Posted December 8, 2009 Some nitrate is good for mushrooms and yr LPS...they need some nutrients..unless u intend to keep lots of SPS.For yr nano size, you have to do alternate day 5% water change instead of weekly 10%-20% water change as this will cause the water parameters and temp to change drastically. Alt day 5% ?? .... think I will not be able to afford the time to do that. Quote Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System 2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackywongto Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 ORP The oxidation reduction potential (ORP) of marine aquaria is a measure of the relative oxidizing power of the water. It has often been recommended to aquarists as an important water parameter, and some companies sell products (equipment and chemicals) designed to control ORP. Many who recommended ORP control have convinced aquarists that it is a measure of the relative "purity" of aquarium water, despite the fact that this has not been clearly demonstrated. ORP, at its heart, is very, very complicated. It is, perhaps, the single most complicated chemical feature of marine aquaria that aquarists will typically encounter. It is not hard just for aquarists who are not scientists. I had to learn a great deal about the electrochemistry of natural waters in order to write this article, and had help from a number of other chemists in understanding some of the principles that are usually swept under the rug. ORP involves many chemical details that are simply unknown, either for seawater or for aquaria. It involves processes that are not at equilibrium, and so are difficult to understand and predict. Even more daunting is the fact that the chemical species that control ORP in one aquarium might not even be the same chemicals that control ORP in another aquarium, or in natural seawater. Because of these complexities, this article is split into two parts: a simplified part and a detailed part. The first part explains what ORP is and why one might measure or control it, in terms that any aquarist can readily understand. It does not, however, explain any of the science behind ORP. It will be useful for aquarists that want a simple understanding of what ORP is in the context of a reef aquarium. The second half goes into great detail on the science behind ORP, including extensive discussions about what facts simply are not known. Many of the details in that part are important to truly understanding what ORP means to aquaria. Unfortunately, these facts have often been glossed over, or ignored entirely, by aquarists using ORP measurements. Such details will help aquarists better understand whether or not it is a good idea to control ORP, to understand the difficulties in attaining interpretable measurements, and to understand what ORP readings are actually telling them about their aquaria. Read full article from Reefkeeping .... Quote Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System 2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackywongto Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 CF NSW $2 for about 10 litre. did a detail test on the NSW quality and here's the result: Salinity : 1.025 PH : 8.18 Ammonia : 0 Nitrite : 0 Nitrate 10ppm Calcium 520 ppm Phosphate : 2ppm Mg : 1080 ppm Alkalinity : 6 dKH * I am a little surprised about the level of the phosphate and nitrate. will do a salt mix with ME salt with distill water and do another set f test later. Quote Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System 2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcoVan Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 CF NSW$2 for about 10 litre. did a detail test on the NSW quality and here's the result: Salinity : 1.025 PH : 8.18 Ammonia : 0 Nitrite : 0 Nitrate 10ppm Calcium 520 ppm Phosphate : 2ppm Mg : 1080 ppm Alkalinity : 6 dKH * I am a little surprised about the level of the phosphate and nitrate. will do a salt mix with ME salt with distill water and do another set f test later. It's inevitable for NSW to have some phosphate or nitrate given that there will be some dead-offs inside the water. That is why it is not recommended to keep NSW in jerry cans for too long (: I'm surprised that alkalinity is 6 for NSW. ahaha. Happy Reefing, Marc J. Quote Happy Reefing, Marc J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackywongto Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 It's inevitable for NSW to have some phosphate or nitrate given that there will be some dead-offs inside the water. That is why it is not recommended to keep NSW in jerry cans for too long (: I'm surprised that alkalinity is 6 for NSW. ahaha. Happy Reefing, Marc J. 2ppm Phosphate is not "some" , i think it is quite a lot right? **gulp.... - dosing so much additives and then do water change that lower the readings.... it is like slapping your left cheek with your right hand. - wanna reduce nitrate and phosphate, thats why changing water but end up with higher nitrate and phosphate. ... this one you slap your right cheek with left hand lol you get my chain of thoughts here? wonder what is the salt mix readings? Quote Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System 2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member teebs Posted December 9, 2009 SRC Member Share Posted December 9, 2009 2ppm Phosphate is not "some" , i think it is quite a lot right?**gulp.... - dosing so much additives and then do water change that lower the readings.... it is like slapping your left cheek with your right hand. - wanna reduce nitrate and phosphate, thats why changing water but end up with higher nitrate and phosphate. ... this one you slap your right cheek with left hand lol you get my chain of thoughts here? wonder what is the salt mix readings? Phosphates can be reduced using RowaPhos or other phosphate media. But I'm quite surprised that the phosphate level is so high. Victor's NSW seems to be 0ppm for phosphates and nitrates even after i store for a month. Salt mix typically will be 0ppm for nitrates and phosphates unless the water u use for mixing has nitrates and phosphates. Quote My Setup: 3x2x2 tank with IOS Equipment List: Chiller: Artica 1/5HP Chiller Pump: Sicce 4000 Return Pump: OR3500 Skimmer: Deltec APF600 Wavemaker: Tunze Wavebox/2x Hydor K2/SCWD wavemaker Lights: DElighting 2x150W MH + 2x 39W T5 Atinic FR: Skimz FR Pump: Atman AT-104 Tubby ATO, Kalkweisser Reactor with magnetic stirrer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackywongto Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 Phosphates can be reduced using RowaPhos or other phosphate media. But I'm quite surprised that the phosphate level is so high. Victor's NSW seems to be 0ppm for phosphates and nitrates even after i store for a month. Salt mix typically will be 0ppm for nitrates and phosphates unless the water u use for mixing has nitrates and phosphates. hey next time do a full test then post the result Pete. Quote Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System 2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackywongto Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 Found this fella again. Since no fishes has been found died mysteriously yet, I am letting him be for the time being. if anyone can confirm that he is harmful, pls let me know and I will get rid of it. then this is the same worm I saw 1 month back Quote Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System 2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackywongto Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 ok after witnessing my coco worm pooping, I think I caught my clam doing it too. Can anyone advise if this is excrement from the clam? Quote Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System 2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member raydiative Posted December 9, 2009 SRC Member Share Posted December 9, 2009 ok after witnessing my coco worm pooping, I think I caught my clam doing it too.Can anyone advise if this is excrement from the clam? piangz.. why do you always see ur LS poopoo??? after you post about your coco poop, i've been observing mine waiting to witness it too.. but nothing lehz.. Quote A man with a reef tank is a man with an empty wallet... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanegan Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 Found this fella again.Since no fishes has been found died mysteriously yet, I am letting him be for the time being. if anyone can confirm that he is harmful, pls let me know and I will get rid of it. then this is the same worm I saw 1 month back Your photo is blurry, it looks like a centipede from what i can see so I am guessing it is a bristleworm. I fished a dead (i put the rocks in super hyposalinity water) 1.5 to 2 feet long specimen out of live rock I got from another reefer recently. I have another one living in a rock in my old tank that i haven't decided what to do with. It is debatable whether it is harmful to the tank since i believe nearly all tanks have them.... generally small specimens are harmless scavengers that keep the tank clean but giant specimens can eat snails and other ls.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackywongto Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 piangz.. why do you always see ur LS poopoo??? after you post about your coco poop, i've been observing mine waiting to witness it too.. but nothing lehz.. you are missing all the action bro Quote Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System 2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackywongto Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 Took some photos under blue lighting. Thanks for these Peter. They really look cute. BTW, the 3rd bunch really did not make it RIP. The surviving 7 polyps should do well. This SPS has a green tinge to it but it nvr colours up in full LED lighting. Orange Yuma Green Hairy Mushroom Another Green SPS The white skeleton portion seems to be diminishing. The flourescent green mushroom Quote Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System 2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member teebs Posted December 9, 2009 SRC Member Share Posted December 9, 2009 Took some photos under blue lighting. Thanks for these Peter. They really look cute. BTW, the 3rd bunch really did not make it RIP. The surviving 7 polyps should do well. Wow...bright headlights... Never mind...at least you still got 7 surviving polyps... Too bad I couldn't frag out some of the red ones for you as they are epoxy on my LR already and I don't want to take it out and epoxy it again later. Too troublesome already. Quote My Setup: 3x2x2 tank with IOS Equipment List: Chiller: Artica 1/5HP Chiller Pump: Sicce 4000 Return Pump: OR3500 Skimmer: Deltec APF600 Wavemaker: Tunze Wavebox/2x Hydor K2/SCWD wavemaker Lights: DElighting 2x150W MH + 2x 39W T5 Atinic FR: Skimz FR Pump: Atman AT-104 Tubby ATO, Kalkweisser Reactor with magnetic stirrer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member teebs Posted December 9, 2009 SRC Member Share Posted December 9, 2009 Took some photos under blue lighting. Orange Yuma Your orange Yuma seems a bit dull. Try target feeding it with some frozen food. It should colour up gradually. Quote My Setup: 3x2x2 tank with IOS Equipment List: Chiller: Artica 1/5HP Chiller Pump: Sicce 4000 Return Pump: OR3500 Skimmer: Deltec APF600 Wavemaker: Tunze Wavebox/2x Hydor K2/SCWD wavemaker Lights: DElighting 2x150W MH + 2x 39W T5 Atinic FR: Skimz FR Pump: Atman AT-104 Tubby ATO, Kalkweisser Reactor with magnetic stirrer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackywongto Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 Wow...bright headlights... Never mind...at least you still got 7 surviving polyps... Too bad I couldn't frag out some of the red ones for you as they are epoxy on my LR already and I don't want to take it out and epoxy it again later. Too troublesome already. no worries. I appreciate these very much. Quote Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System 2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member teebs Posted December 9, 2009 SRC Member Share Posted December 9, 2009 Where's the pic of the blasto??? Quote My Setup: 3x2x2 tank with IOS Equipment List: Chiller: Artica 1/5HP Chiller Pump: Sicce 4000 Return Pump: OR3500 Skimmer: Deltec APF600 Wavemaker: Tunze Wavebox/2x Hydor K2/SCWD wavemaker Lights: DElighting 2x150W MH + 2x 39W T5 Atinic FR: Skimz FR Pump: Atman AT-104 Tubby ATO, Kalkweisser Reactor with magnetic stirrer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackywongto Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 Where's the pic of the blasto??? too busy taking Ray's that I forgot to take mine. Now lights off already ... haha Quote Eqpt: Deltec MCE 600, Tunze 6055 with Tunze 7091 controller, Artica 1/15 HP chiller, AquaIllumination Sol Blue LED Light System 2011 resolution : Do it simpler, better and in an easier way! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member teebs Posted December 9, 2009 SRC Member Share Posted December 9, 2009 too busy taking Ray's that I forgot to take mine.Now lights off already ... haha Ahhhh...don't want Ray to see that yours is nicer huh??? Quote My Setup: 3x2x2 tank with IOS Equipment List: Chiller: Artica 1/5HP Chiller Pump: Sicce 4000 Return Pump: OR3500 Skimmer: Deltec APF600 Wavemaker: Tunze Wavebox/2x Hydor K2/SCWD wavemaker Lights: DElighting 2x150W MH + 2x 39W T5 Atinic FR: Skimz FR Pump: Atman AT-104 Tubby ATO, Kalkweisser Reactor with magnetic stirrer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qiang Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 Ahhhh...don't want Ray to see that yours is nicer huh??? wa bes nv share the blasto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRC Member teebs Posted December 9, 2009 SRC Member Share Posted December 9, 2009 A pic of Jacky's blasto in my tank... I'm very sure it will look different from this in his tank under his LED lights. Quote My Setup: 3x2x2 tank with IOS Equipment List: Chiller: Artica 1/5HP Chiller Pump: Sicce 4000 Return Pump: OR3500 Skimmer: Deltec APF600 Wavemaker: Tunze Wavebox/2x Hydor K2/SCWD wavemaker Lights: DElighting 2x150W MH + 2x 39W T5 Atinic FR: Skimz FR Pump: Atman AT-104 Tubby ATO, Kalkweisser Reactor with magnetic stirrer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qiang Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 A pic of Jacky's blasto in my tank... I'm very sure it will look different from this in his tank under his LED lights. i mean share the blasto wif me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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