My 1.5 ft Reef log

[jackywongto]

Jacky, I've heard that some people use clams to remove Nitrates... any truth in that?

hey bro, I am as noob as you lah.... wrong person to ask haha.

But heres what I found out from the web:

==========================

Besides their beauty, clams offer one important benefit to a saltwater aquarium: Their ability to filter nutrients from the water. Nutrients in a closed system, like an aquarium, often build to the point where they become problematic. Excess nutrients, like nitrate, lead to problems with low pH, algae and cyanobacteria blooms, and ultimately, poor health with the livestock in the system.

The colorful, fleshy part of Tridacna clams that is displayed when the shell is open is called the 'syphonal mantle.' This mantle contains both an incurrent (intake) and an expelling orifice (opening). The clams use these openings to move water through their internal organs, where nutrients and plankton are filtered out and consumed by the clam.

Tridacna clams not only use nutrients from the water to satisfy their nutritional needs, but also employ algae cells called zooxanthellae within their mantle. These algae cells use nutrients from both the clam and the water, and along with light, they photosynthesize. The energy that these cells produce through photosynthesis is then returned back to the clam which uses this energy source to aid in its growth.

The nutrients that clams remove from the water are mainly ammonia and nitrate. When a clam feeds upon ammonia, it eliminates this nutrient from the system before it is processed by the biological filtration. The biological filtration is what facilitates the nitrogen cycle, and by not allowing ammonia to enter into this cycle, the end product nitrate will not be formed. This ultimately reduces the biological load and lowers the overall nitrate level in the aquarium.

By incorporating these beautiful, fast growing clams into your saltwater aquarium, you will increase the biodiversity of that system, thereby creating a more stable environment.

[jackywongto]

Environmental requirements

Lighting: The T. derasa clams are the hardiest of the Tridacna clams, and will adjust to a wide variety of conditions within the aquarium. The most critical parameter that is essential to their well being is the level of light. They require a moderate to high level of lighting that can be supplied by power compact fluorescents up to metal halides. Simply place the clam higher in the aquarium if using fluorescents. If a more powerful lighting system like metal halides are used on an aquarium of 24 inches or less, these clams can be placed just about anywhere in the aquarium, as long as they are not blocked from the light.

Water Movement: Like all Tridacna clams, the Derasa clams do not like strong direct water currents. This kind of water movement seems to inhibit the clam's ability to adjust the amount of water passing through it. Be sure when placing the clam, that it is in a location where the water movement is moderate, and indirect.

Placement: The clam's placement within the aquarium is the last part of caring for Tridacna clams. After evaluating your lighting system and water movement within the aquarium, and have chosen a location for your clam, place the clam so that the mantle is facing upward towards the light. This is important, because the clam obtains a majority of its nutrition from photosynthesis and ultimately from the light. Do not place the clam in a crevice where it may have difficulty fully opening its shell. Make sure the location is sturdy and offers enough room for the clam to grow.

Clams have the ability to open and close their shells very rapidly in order to move their position. They will do this when they do not like their position. If at any time the clam moves and is laying on its side, right the clam back to the correct position. Do this immediately because the mantle must be in full illumination in order to provide the clam with nutrition. Laying on its side, the clam will slowly starve to death.

Tridacna clams are not only some of the most beautiful additions to a reef aquarium, but because of their superior filtering abilities, they offer an added stability and nutrient control to the system. T. derasa clams are one of the best choices out of this genus. They are aquacultured, hardy, fast growing, and adapt to a wide variety of environments. These clams are a great choice for not only the beginner reef aquarist, but also offer diversity, beauty, and rapid growth for even the most advanced reef aquariums.

Trace Elements: Giant clams use calcium and strontium in order to build their shells, and these elements should be present in the aquarium at or near those levels found in nature.

Calcium, which should be added to all reef aquariums in order to maintain a high pH, should be maintained between 380 and 420 ppm, with a high stable pH of 8.3 to 8.5.

Strontium is typically replaced fast enough during routine water changes, but may need to be supplemented in an aquarium containing a large number of hard corals. This level is more difficult to test for, but should be maintained in the range of 6 to 10 ppm. Although slightly higher levels of strontium have proven not to be harmful to most invertebrates, it can be a source for unsightly cyanobacteria outbreaks.

Iodine is the last major trace element utilized by giant clams. Iodine aids these invertebrates in their ability to break down the oxygen that is produced by the zooxanthellae cells, and ultimately helps the clam maintain their bright coloration. In many systems, regular water changes and feedings are sufficient to replenish the iodine levels. However, aquariums with large numbers of soft corals or if aggressive chemical filtration is used, may need iodine supplementation. If the clam shows poor coloration, and the soft corals within the system show poor expansion, test the iodine level and use a supplement to maintain this level in the range of .04 and .08 ppm.

[jackywongto]

Finally after waiting for so long, CF finally released them for sale.

[raydiative]

Finally after waiting for so long, CF finally released them for sale.

the one on top is very nice!

[jackywongto]

the one on top is very nice!

The colouration is off. hmm I need to try to capture the right colour. Will try again later.

Exploring this method of feeding them.

[teebs]

The colouration is off. hmm I need to try to capture the right colour. Will try again later.

Exploring this method of feeding them.

Wah...Jacky is the clam nanny...

[jackywongto]

OK I think I just saw my coco worm poo in the tank..

[raydiative]

OK I think I just saw my coco worm poo in the tank..

oh? never see coco worm poo before...

[jackywongto]

The purple SPS has bleached a little but seems to be suriving.

OK, the xenia is growing too fast and has encroached my rock.

Question: Do you guys trim these? I think it will easily double its size in 3 months time.

Pls advise.

[raydiative]

OK, the xenia is growing too fast and has encroached my rock.

Question: Do you guys trim these? I think it will easily double its size in 3 months time.

Pls advise.

frag for me!

[jackywongto]

oh? never see coco worm poo before...

The 2 spiral coil just moved to the sides and the 2 tentacles in the middle just release poo I think.....

damn disgusting

[jackywongto]

frag for me!

I have 1 bunch spare at the side. you can have it.

Comy you have xenia?

[teebs]

The 2 spiral coil just moved to the sides and the 2 tentacles in the middle just release poo I think.....

damn disgusting

check ur water parameters... wait later ammonia spike...

[jackywongto]

choy.....

but I will be doing full test tml.

[teebs]

choy.....

but I will be doing full test tml.

wat...choy...

Ur coco worm poo leh...

[raydiative]

The 2 spiral coil just moved to the sides and the 2 tentacles in the middle just release poo I think.....

damn disgusting

yucks.. thats super gross... hahaha

[ronski]

Last but not least, the JBJ 24G Nano cabinet

Went hunting around for a low side table that can be used as a stand but unable to find one at a reasonable price.

The black background actually blend in well with the cabinet.

This is my probably my last update for the next 2 - 3 weeks.

Till my Tunze, MP10, and other stuff arrives.

Gotta wrap up the tank for the time being.

Any comments, suggestions , pls feel free to shoot them off here.

No offence will be taken

Hi,

How much you get your JBJ 24G Nano cabinet and from where?..I'm search for one too.

Thanks!

PS: Love your setup!

[jackywongto]

Hi,

How much you get your JBJ 24G Nano cabinet and from where?..I'm search for one too.

Thanks!

PS: Love your setup!

Thanks Ron.

You can get it from any of the LFS that sells JBJ nano tank.

I got mine from AM at about $120 I think.

You can also posting WTB at Pasar malam for 2nd hand deals.

Gd luck!

[qiang]

dun tink any1 gonna sell it separate coz i've been lookin for 1 too for quite long le haha...tinkin of whether to diy 1 or buy 1 heh

[jackywongto]

wat...choy...

Ur coco worm poo leh...

Ok this is getting too much. He just pooed again.

I think he does that like every 3- 4 hourly.

Fouling up all my water.

Never know they have such high bioload.

Can anyone confirm this or have I mistaken ==> Coco worm has high bio load and releases waste ???

[jackywongto]

Wanted to bring the clam to higher ground for more light intensity but have no decided if I want it permanently on a rock.

So found a tray and housed in mid point 1st.

The other is in a tray on the sand bed

FTS

[ronski]

Thanks Ron.

You can get it from any of the LFS that sells JBJ nano tank.

I got mine from AM at about $120 I think.

You can also posting WTB at Pasar malam for 2nd hand deals.

Gd luck!

[jackywongto]

Coco worm

The Hard Tube Coco Worm, also known as the Hard Tube Feather Duster, Protula Tubeworm, or Hard Tubeworm, has a crown that can be white, yellow, orange, pink, or red. The radioles may be banded or patterned. Younger Hard Tube Coco Worms have bi-lobed crowns, while the crowns of older individuals are spiraled.

The Hard Tube Coco Worm secretes a calcareous tube, approximately 1/2 inch in diameter and 5-8 inches long, to house its vulnerable worm body. When disturbed, it can quickly retract its crown and close its operculum to shut the top of its tube. It usually anchors its tube in a crevice of the rocky reef or in the gravel along current-swept reef slopes. It uses the radioles to filter out floating plankton.

The aquarium for the Hard Tube Coco Worm should be well-established and contain a rock and gravel substrate. The Hard Tube Coco Worm requires calcium and the proper alkalinity to grow. It is extremely intolerant of poor water quality and copper-based medications.

In the aquarium it is difficult to maintain, and will need supplements of phytoplankton and liquid organic foods.

[jackywongto]

BTW, found posting in NR and RC that relates to coco worm pooing..... So I think it is confirmed that they poo like fishes and they poo a lot!

[craftsman]

Wanted to bring the clam to higher ground for more light intensity but have no decided if I want it permanently on a rock.

So found a tray and housed in mid point 1st.

The other is in a tray on the sand bed

FTS

wow... your sun coral so tok kong! how did you manage to get them to open up so much?