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Hi all, need your advice on below questions:

1. How many PPM of Nitrate is safe in aquarium?

2. Read a post that if all NH4, NO2 and NO3 are zeros during new tank cycling, it could be that the tank never went through ANN cycle. Is it true?

3. Since Nitrate is the final product of ANN cycle, will it finally reduce to zero? Today is the 18th day of my new tank cycling, the NH4 is 0 (first measure was 1PPM), NO2 is 0.1PPM (it was around 0.3~0.8PPM) and NO3 is around 5~10PPM (it was around 20PPM). Can I say that my tank has completed the cycling and it is ready for LS?

4. The filter wool is very dirty. Should I just replace it or clean it? I heard that it might contain beneficial bacteria? Is it true?

5. I have just measured my tap water using API NO3 test kit, the reading was 0. Read from forum that it is better to treat the tap water with Crstal Pro before pump it into the fish tank. Anyone has experience with this product? 3 stage or just single stage is good enough?

6. What could be the source for the high NO3 in the fish tank? My existing 1 1/2 ft tank read >40PPM. How can I reduce it? Do a water change?

Please help..... :thanks:

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1. How many PPM of Nitrate is safe in aquarium?

Depending on what livestock you are keeping.. Fish only tanks or with soft corals can tolerate a higher level of NO3, I'd say 20 to 40ppm(?) is a safe gauge, although I know of people who are able to maintain a thriving reef tank despite NO3 levels of up to 100ppm (Yes lemomlemon, I'm talking about you haha). SPS corals will require clean water, undetectable NO3 and PO4.

2. Read a post that if all NH4, NO2 and NO3 are zeros during new tank cycling, it could be that the tank never went through ANN cycle. Is it true?

It's like a bell curve, all the measurements will start off at zero, then when the rotting organisms break down, NH4 will rise, peak and fall to zero, followed by NO2 which will start to rise, peak and fall after NH4 disappears. After NO2 is undectable and NO3 peaks, the tank is considered cycled. If you are unsure, you can throw a piece of prawn meat to see if there is a noticeable presence of NH4 or NO2.

3. Since Nitrate is the final product of ANN cycle, will it finally reduce to zero? Today is the 18th day of my new tank cycling, the NH4 is 0 (first measure was 1PPM), NO2 is 0.1PPM (it was around 0.3~0.8PPM) and NO3 is around 5~10PPM (it was around 20PPM). Can I say that my tank has completed the cycling and it is ready for LS?

NO3 is unlikely to fall to zero while cycling because the bacteria required for that process can take a few months to colonise and mature. Usually after NO2 is undetectable, you should change out the water partially to export the NO3 (if it is too high), then you can start to add livestock slowly.

4. The filter wool is very dirty. Should I just replace it or clean it? I heard that it might contain beneficial bacteria? Is it true?

The filter wool is a mechanical filter; it physically sieves out solid scum and dirt. The scum trapped inside will rot and become a nitrate factory if not changed regularly. It will contain bacteria, but it will also provide a constant source of food for them, polluting your water.

5. I have just measured my tap water using API NO3 test kit, the reading was 0. Read from forum that it is better to treat the tap water with Crstal Pro before pump it into the fish tank. Anyone has experience with this product? 3 stage or just single stage is good enough?

No experience with this cos I don't use tap water, but I do know that tap water contains copper and other traces of heavy metal, I rather not take the risk of using it untreated.

6. What could be the source for the high NO3 in the fish tank? My existing 1 1/2 ft tank read >40PPM. How can I reduce it? Do a water change?

As mentioned above, NO3 is a by product of the ANN cycle, comes from waste, your filter wool if unchanged could also be a NO3 producing factory. The bacteria that breaks down NO3 takes very long to mature and colonise the tank. Best way is to use an algae scrubber, denitrator, or a refugium with macro algae. You can also do water change to export the NO3. If you do a 25% water change, it becomes 30ppm, you do another 25% water change, it becomes 22.5ppm...

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  binosage said:
1. How many PPM of Nitrate is safe in aquarium?

Depending on what livestock you are keeping.. Fish only tanks or with soft corals can tolerate a higher level of NO3, I'd say 20 to 40ppm(?) is a safe gauge, although I know of people who are able to maintain a thriving reef tank despite NO3 levels of up to 100ppm (Yes lemomlemon, I'm talking about you haha). SPS corals will require clean water, undetectable NO3 and PO4.

2. Read a post that if all NH4, NO2 and NO3 are zeros during new tank cycling, it could be that the tank never went through ANN cycle. Is it true?

It's like a bell curve, all the measurements will start off at zero, then when the rotting organisms break down, NH4 will rise, peak and fall to zero, followed by NO2 which will start to rise, peak and fall after NH4 disappears. After NO2 is undectable and NO3 peaks, the tank is considered cycled. If you are unsure, you can throw a piece of prawn meat to see if there is a noticeable presence of NH4 or NO2.

3. Since Nitrate is the final product of ANN cycle, will it finally reduce to zero? Today is the 18th day of my new tank cycling, the NH4 is 0 (first measure was 1PPM), NO2 is 0.1PPM (it was around 0.3~0.8PPM) and NO3 is around 5~10PPM (it was around 20PPM). Can I say that my tank has completed the cycling and it is ready for LS?

NO3 is unlikely to fall to zero while cycling because the bacteria required for that process can take a few months to colonise and mature. Usually after NO2 is undetectable, you should change out the water partially to export the NO3 (if it is too high), then you can start to add livestock slowly.

4. The filter wool is very dirty. Should I just replace it or clean it? I heard that it might contain beneficial bacteria? Is it true?

The filter wool is a mechanical filter; it physically sieves out solid scum and dirt. The scum trapped inside will rot and become a nitrate factory if not changed regularly. It will contain bacteria, but it will also provide a constant source of food for them, polluting your water.

5. I have just measured my tap water using API NO3 test kit, the reading was 0. Read from forum that it is better to treat the tap water with Crstal Pro before pump it into the fish tank. Anyone has experience with this product? 3 stage or just single stage is good enough?

No experience with this cos I don't use tap water, but I do know that tap water contains copper and other traces of heavy metal, I rather not take the risk of using it untreated.

6. What could be the source for the high NO3 in the fish tank? My existing 1 1/2 ft tank read >40PPM. How can I reduce it? Do a water change?

As mentioned above, NO3 is a by product of the ANN cycle, comes from waste, your filter wool if unchanged could also be a NO3 producing factory. The bacteria that breaks down NO3 takes very long to mature and colonise the tank. Best way is to use an algae scrubber, denitrator, or a refugium with macro algae. You can also do water change to export the NO3. If you do a 25% water change, it becomes 30ppm, you do another 25% water change, it becomes 22.5ppm...

haha. my NO3 is 1 of a kind

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  binosage said:
1. How many PPM of Nitrate is safe in aquarium?

Depending on what livestock you are keeping.. Fish only tanks or with soft corals can tolerate a higher level of NO3, I'd say 20 to 40ppm(?) is a safe gauge, although I know of people who are able to maintain a thriving reef tank despite NO3 levels of up to 100ppm (Yes lemomlemon, I'm talking about you haha). SPS corals will require clean water, undetectable NO3 and PO4.

2. Read a post that if all NH4, NO2 and NO3 are zeros during new tank cycling, it could be that the tank never went through ANN cycle. Is it true?

It's like a bell curve, all the measurements will start off at zero, then when the rotting organisms break down, NH4 will rise, peak and fall to zero, followed by NO2 which will start to rise, peak and fall after NH4 disappears. After NO2 is undectable and NO3 peaks, the tank is considered cycled. If you are unsure, you can throw a piece of prawn meat to see if there is a noticeable presence of NH4 or NO2.

3. Since Nitrate is the final product of ANN cycle, will it finally reduce to zero? Today is the 18th day of my new tank cycling, the NH4 is 0 (first measure was 1PPM), NO2 is 0.1PPM (it was around 0.3~0.8PPM) and NO3 is around 5~10PPM (it was around 20PPM). Can I say that my tank has completed the cycling and it is ready for LS?

NO3 is unlikely to fall to zero while cycling because the bacteria required for that process can take a few months to colonise and mature. Usually after NO2 is undetectable, you should change out the water partially to export the NO3 (if it is too high), then you can start to add livestock slowly.

4. The filter wool is very dirty. Should I just replace it or clean it? I heard that it might contain beneficial bacteria? Is it true?

The filter wool is a mechanical filter; it physically sieves out solid scum and dirt. The scum trapped inside will rot and become a nitrate factory if not changed regularly. It will contain bacteria, but it will also provide a constant source of food for them, polluting your water.

5. I have just measured my tap water using API NO3 test kit, the reading was 0. Read from forum that it is better to treat the tap water with Crstal Pro before pump it into the fish tank. Anyone has experience with this product? 3 stage or just single stage is good enough?

No experience with this cos I don't use tap water, but I do know that tap water contains copper and other traces of heavy metal, I rather not take the risk of using it untreated.

6. What could be the source for the high NO3 in the fish tank? My existing 1 1/2 ft tank read >40PPM. How can I reduce it? Do a water change?

As mentioned above, NO3 is a by product of the ANN cycle, comes from waste, your filter wool if unchanged could also be a NO3 producing factory. The bacteria that breaks down NO3 takes very long to mature and colonise the tank. Best way is to use an algae scrubber, denitrator, or a refugium with macro algae. You can also do water change to export the NO3. If you do a 25% water change, it becomes 30ppm, you do another 25% water change, it becomes 22.5ppm...

But is it safe if we use the AZ-NO3 Nitrate remover? Can't seem to reduce my Nitrate from 80ppm to <10ppm.....did water change and clean my filter room.....

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How much water change did you do? a 10% change won't reduce your nitrate tt much. My 50% WC reduced my nitrates by 50%. In any case, you should have been tracking your ANN cycle, so should have seen the peaks in ammonia and nitrite before they started dropping.

I'm using AZ NO3 with v. good results. My nitrates went down from 25 to 5ppm within 1 week. Just follow the instructions on the bottle and slowly wean it off your system when nitrates are brought under control.

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  comycus said:
How much water change did you do? a 10% change won't reduce your nitrate tt much. My 50% WC reduced my nitrates by 50%. In any case, you should have been tracking your ANN cycle, so should have seen the peaks in ammonia and nitrite before they started dropping.

I'm using AZ NO3 with v. good results. My nitrates went down from 25 to 5ppm within 1 week. Just follow the instructions on the bottle and slowly wean it off your system when nitrates are brought under control.

Thanks guys....AZ-NO3 here i come

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Thanks.....

Will do a 20% change this weekend then transfer my cleaner shrimp from my existing tank...

Does activated carbon help to reduce NH4? I threw in a market prawn on day 3 of my cycling, NH4 read 1PPM pn day 5, added activated carbon on day 6...

NH4 drop to 0 on day 7....

Think of keeping a pair of true percula clown, already have a in my small tank (not transferred to my 3 ft tank yet), should i get a big or small one to pair up? The true percula clown is quite aggressive towards its own species, it is "heng1 shui1" whether they can be pair up succefully...anhy secret recipe to pair them up? hee...... :thanks:

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  enseng said:
Thanks.....

Will do a 20% change this weekend then transfer my cleaner shrimp from my existing tank...

Does activated carbon help to reduce NH4? I threw in a market prawn on day 3 of my cycling, NH4 read 1PPM pn day 5, added activated carbon on day 6...

NH4 drop to 0 on day 7....

Think of keeping a pair of true percula clown, already have a in my small tank (not transferred to my 3 ft tank yet), should i get a big or small one to pair up? The true percula clown is quite aggressive towards its own species, it is "heng1 shui1" whether they can be pair up succefully...anhy secret recipe to pair them up? hee...... :thanks:

I think your carbon was the reason for NH4 to drop to 0, which means most prob, your tank not really fully cycled, coz bacteria not allowed to grow fully without NH4 to breakdown after the carbon absorb it. might wanna restart your cycling process... can consider dosing bacteria, not sure if tt will quicken the cycling process for you.

i heard true percs v aggressive, might wanna consider adding them later rather than as first fish. Unless you are planning on setting up an aggressive tank :unsure:

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My new setup tank have been with me for exactly 2mths, already loaded with fishes and corals, recently some fishes die

and NO3 at its Peak now, Amonia=0, NO2=0. Shall I add in AZ-NO3? Is it reef safe?

Admiring a well designed Terrarium's garden indoor is like walking thru a garden after a whole day work...

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  successnowhere said:
My new setup tank have been with me for exactly 2mths, already loaded with fishes and corals, recently some fishes die

and NO3 at its Peak now, Amonia=0, NO2=0. Shall I add in AZ-NO3? Is it reef safe?

Effects AZ-NO3 provides many other benefits besides nitrate reduction. Upon addition of the product to the aquarium, you will notice that the Protein Skimmer becomes more efficient and remains that way for approximately 30 days after the final use of the AZ-NO3. In addition, as the enzymes become active, all sediments and pre-filters in the aquarium remove larger amounts of undesirable organics, thus requiring more frequent filter changing.

It does not interfere with any nitrate test kits to give you illusionQ and fake denitrating effects like the other product (See below "Latest Update").

It brings down & maintains your nitrate from as high as 100ppm or more to an Absolute-Zero level. Hence the name.

Safe for reef and fish-mainly marine systems (saltwater use only). Will not harm your delicate corals.

Works with an efficient protein skimmer to export the bonded nitrate compounds. An alternative way is to employ Polyfilter Pads to adsorb the bonded nitrate compounds.

Also dramatically enhance the efficiency of your protein skimmer in the removal of other detrimental dissolved organics.

Contains absolutely no yeast nor complex sugar which will cause adverse effects & other unpredictable complications upon long term usage.

Since that it is not bacterial-based. Its potency will not be affected by any other additives, medications and supplements. It is fully-compatible with any other chemical engineered for aquatic use.

Fully-tested by actual hobbyists with all kinds of marine systems and different starting levels of nitrate concentration.

Newly copyrighted formula developed by a group of Biochemists / Hydroculturists. Product will last for 1 year at 70 degrees.

Latest Update

The AZ-NO3 may not work to its full effectiveness under the following conditions:

UV Sterilizer running near or above 50,000 microwatts - sec/cm2.

Ozone saturation above 40% in the protein skimmer.

Customer not changing pre-filter pads and/or filter sponges in mechanical filters before natural nitrification breaks the maltase molecule back down into it`s original nitrates. So, clean your pre-filters and all pads frequently please.

Under rare situations that should your fish show stress, an Iodine supplement is recommended. Please bare in mind that the AZ-NO3 enhances the efficiency of your skimmer and Iodine may have been exported.

Watch your ORP while using this product and increase aeration if there is a need.

Its reef safe, and please note the final caution on increased aeration.

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I have used AZ-NO3,it works but it is too expensive for such a small bottle($30 at 240ml),I have switched to a cheaper alternative,vodka ! :rolleyes: Only $18+ for a 1000 ml bottle from duty free shops.

It works,no problem holding NO3 at <1 to 5 with heavy feeding for more than 6 mths,needs a good skimmer though.Cheers.

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  andyteh said:
I have used AZ-NO3,it works but it is too expensive for such a small bottle($30 at 240ml),I have switched to a cheaper alternative,vodka ! :rolleyes: Only $18+ for a 1000 ml bottle from duty free shops.

It works,no problem holding NO3 at <1 to 5 with heavy feeding for more than 6 mths,needs a good skimmer though.Cheers.

heard about dosing vodka/sugar :) I guess that's another alternative... try to get my fish n corals drunk! :eyebrow:

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  andyteh said:
I have used AZ-NO3,it works but it is too expensive for such a small bottle($30 at 240ml),I have switched to a cheaper alternative,vodka ! :rolleyes: Only $18+ for a 1000 ml bottle from duty free shops.

It works,no problem holding NO3 at <1 to 5 with heavy feeding for more than 6 mths,needs a good skimmer though.Cheers.

whats the dosing amount that you use? i dose 5ml daily for 1000l but cant only get it to 25ppm and i dare not dose more then 5ml

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Return: Red Dragon 6.5m3

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CR: RM 824 /milwakee PH controller

Tunze TS24 with 7096

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American Pinpoint PH monitor

American Pinpoint ORP Monitor with Resun Ozone

RM sulphur denitrator

RM FR 424

RM FR 624

TLF Phosban Reactor

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  dachkie said:
whats the dosing amount that you use? i dose 5ml daily for 1000l but cant only get it to 25ppm and i dare not dose more then 5ml

Hi,

I have dosed gradually till my current level at 20 ml,if your nitrate doesnt drop,you have to increase gradually.

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1. How many PPM of Nitrate is safe in aquarium?

On the safe side, get it as low as possible.. Best is below 10ppm.. 25-50ppm is still acceptable..

2. Read a post that if all NH4, NO2 and NO3 are zeros during new tank cycling, it could be that the tank never went through ANN cycle. Is it true?

I am not sure about this.. By right, for the ANN cycle to be fully completed, NH4, N02 will reach its peak and drop to zero respectivily. Den N03 will rise to its peak and by den you will need to do a 25% water change.. To reduce the Nitrate level..

3. Since Nitrate is the final product of ANN cycle, will it finally reduce to zero? Today is the 18th day of my new tank cycling, the NH4 is 0 (first measure was 1PPM), NO2 is 0.1PPM (it was around 0.3~0.8PPM) and NO3 is around 5~10PPM (it was around 20PPM). Can I say that my tank has completed the cycling and it is ready for LS?

If my memory served me right, Nitrogen gas is the final end product.. When the anaerobic bacteria break down the Nitrate.. This is done in the DSB where all the anaerobic bacteria reside..

4. The filter wool is very dirty. Should I just replace it or clean it? I heard that it might contain beneficial bacteria? Is it true?

Yes, it contain bacteria but also will be a nitrate factory.. Best to change every week to prevent your nitrate from rising..

5. I have just measured my tap water using API NO3 test kit, the reading was 0. Read from forum that it is better to treat the tap water with Crstal Pro before pump it into the fish tank. Anyone has experience with this product? 3 stage or just single stage is good enough?

Yes, our tapwater contain chlorine, heavy metal and other chemical.. So it is better to go thru RO or DI filter..

6. What could be the source for the high NO3 in the fish tank? My existing 1 1/2 ft tank read >40PPM. How can I reduce it? Do a water change?

Can do the water change.. And Nitrate reducing product like AZ-N03..

Please help..... :thanks:

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Dosing of az-n03, vodka and sugar is a mean of reducing nitrate as it feeds the bacteria and they bloom in population thus the N03 go down becos there are more bacteria to break down the nitrate compound into nitrogen.. Correct me if i am wrong..

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  Terryz_ said:
Dosing of az-n03, vodka and sugar is a mean of reducing nitrate as it feeds the bacteria and they bloom in population thus the N03 go down becos there are more bacteria to break down the nitrate compound into nitrogen.. Correct me if i am wrong..

I think something like tt, but not bacteria... for AZ NO3, it provides 'food' for the enzyme maltese to oxidize NO3 so that it can be exported out via the skimmer. At least tt's my understanding.

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  LemonLemon said:
haha. my NO3 is 1 of a kind

don't worry bro! mine also same, you're not alone. My NO3 is very high even though i do weekly water change. :whistle

Reefing since 2003
 4ft x 2ft x 2ft Mixed Reef (BB):-
50 Gal Sump,

Apex Controlled System (Lab grade),
Deltec SC1455 Protein Skimmer,
Vortech MP40wQD,

Jebao RW-15

Maxspect Razor 320w
Eheim 1260 Return Pump,
Hailea HS-66A 1/4HP chiller,
TLF Reactor 150, running HydroCarbon 



 

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  comycus said:
How much water change did you do? a 10% change won't reduce your nitrate tt much. My 50% WC reduced my nitrates by 50%. In any case, you should have been tracking your ANN cycle, so should have seen the peaks in ammonia and nitrite before they started dropping.

I'm using AZ NO3 with v. good results. My nitrates went down from 25 to 5ppm within 1 week. Just follow the instructions on the bottle and slowly wean it off your system when nitrates are brought under control.

Hi comycus, you were saying that your 50% water change reduce your nitrate by 50%. so if let say i have a extreme high level of NO3.

can i do a 50% of WC this week, and another 50% next week? will the fishes and Coral be able to adapt to such changes?

:thanks:

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  vampiel said:
Hi comycus, you were saying that your 50% water change reduce your nitrate by 50%. so if let say i have a extreme high level of NO3.

can i do a 50% of WC this week, and another 50% next week? will the fishes and Coral be able to adapt to such changes?

:thanks:

Forgot to add that I did the 50% after my cycling period when there were no LS.

What are your nitrate levels? Also would be good to get to the root of your nitrate problem. Overfeeding? Overstocking? something dying somewhere? high nitrates in your tap water? No use performing WC if you don't nip the problem at the bud bro. cheers!

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  comycus said:
Forgot to add that I did the 50% after my cycling period when there were no LS.

What are your nitrate levels? Also would be good to get to the root of your nitrate problem. Overfeeding? Overstocking? something dying somewhere? high nitrates in your tap water? No use performing WC if you don't nip the problem at the bud bro. cheers!

Hi comycus, i believe the high nitrate is due the something dying somewhere, can't find the corpse also.

OVerfeeding -> Weekday Only once a day, weekend twice a day.

Overstocking -> 6 fishes in a 3 ft tank. with 3 types of soft corals.

high nitrates in tap water -> we are using DI unit. so unlikely.

Regards

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  vampiel said:
Hi comycus, i believe the high nitrate is due the something dying somewhere, can't find the corpse also.

OVerfeeding -> Weekday Only once a day, weekend twice a day.

Overstocking -> 6 fishes in a 3 ft tank. with 3 types of soft corals.

high nitrates in tap water -> we are using DI unit. so unlikely.

Regards

Bro, u have sandbed? Sometimes sb may cause NO3 spike.....

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  vampiel said:
Hi comycus, i believe the high nitrate is due the something dying somewhere, can't find the corpse also.

OVerfeeding -> Weekday Only once a day, weekend twice a day.

Overstocking -> 6 fishes in a 3 ft tank. with 3 types of soft corals.

high nitrates in tap water -> we are using DI unit. so unlikely.

Regards

if its 6 tangs or 6 lionfish in your tank, its definitely overstocked :P

Maybe you can get a good cleanup crew to cleanup any detritus or dying stuff in hard to reach areas. Nassarius snails are prob your best bet. Maybe get 20-30 of them as these snails are really small.

I have seen feedback in forums of ppl reporting success in bringing down their nitrate levels from 100 to zero using AZ-NO3 within 4 weeks. I think doing that and weekly changes of 25% over the next 4 weeks should be able to bring your nitrates under control. Me still learning, maybe other bros have other tried and tested methods also can share :)

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  comycus said:
if its 6 tangs or 6 lionfish in your tank, its definitely overstocked :P

Maybe you can get a good cleanup crew to cleanup any detritus or dying stuff in hard to reach areas. Nassarius snails are prob your best bet. Maybe get 20-30 of them as these snails are really small.

I have seen feedback in forums of ppl reporting success in bringing down their nitrate levels from 100 to zero using AZ-NO3 within 4 weeks. I think doing that and weekly changes of 25% over the next 4 weeks should be able to bring your nitrates under control. Me still learning, maybe other bros have other tried and tested methods also can share :)

Hi mitlancer, yup i do have a sandbed.

Nope, is 4 nemo, 1 tomato and 1 blue damsel.

Ok. so this week i'm will start to change 50% of the water first.

:thanks:

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