Another DIY LED lighting

[Gouldian]

:bow:

[RockyBoy]

Dated : 9th August 2009..................Happy Birthday to my WHITEY !

Finally.....My baby Whitey was born !

Delivery Time : 2330

Hi Bro..

Nce works, very pro... Just wanna ask you...

What's the spacing between the LEDs?

May be you might want to shift the connectors to the top so that the salt spray do not easily corrode the metal parts at the sides.

[RockyBoy]

:bow:

When are you going to start? Save electricity, save $$$, save earth...

[Jameshong]

Hi Bro..

Nce works, very pro... Just wanna ask you...

What's the spacing between the LEDs?

STAR to STAR is 3.4cm. Tested and comfirmed no spot light effect.

May be you might want to shift the connectors to the top so that the salt spray do not easily corrode the metal parts at the sides.

Yap..this is one of my plan too when in initial designing stage. Have also thought of side, top and rear but at last chosen rear is b'cos...I can't get the actual input connector size for this L plug all around Sim Lim... !

[reefcrazy]

WOW, really very nice. Great Job, bro!

What is the brand and waltage of the LED bulbs you are using? Are you also using lenses - what angle? How do you determine the distance between the bulbs? Do you know how much lumens your final fixture is producing and what is the PAR?

ONce again, congratulations for a job well done.

[Jameshong]

My new LED fixture design's concept and philosophy :

Finally, my new baby was born on National Day, 9th August 2009, 2330 after a long process of planning, designing and implementation. My new LED fixture was successfully created and completed with the following concept and philosophy:

(1) Slimmest, light, neat and durable

(2) Cost efficient, with high quality & standard

(3) Wide Light spread without spotted effect

(4) Ease of access for repair and maintenance

(5) Scalability for future upgrade(Optional)

From the series of pictures that I have posted, you can see the whole process of using only White acrylic to box up the entire light as a fixture. I preferred acrylic material as it is very light weight and easy to drill as compared to aluminum, and also have various colors as choices. As for the heat sink, I’m using a 3mm aluminum plate instead of fin heat sink as it looks very bulky and also put on weight which is against my design concept and personal liking. Wires are all hidden and done behind the aluminum plate to have neat outlook.

For this project, I have improved the design by reducing the height of 8mm to 6.5mm (slimmer) without affecting the ventilation, added more LEDs includes 4 UV for better area coverage, larger plate size of aluminum sheet to cater for fast heat transfer, 2 fans for air circulation (22 CFM/fan) and last but not least, creating the refreshing design of fixture layout internally & externally by using WHITE acrylic as compared to the 1st LEDs black fixture that I'm using it now.

My 1st LED black fixture

My 1st LED black fixture -Light on

Testing

I’m going to do 2 reliability tests at the room temperature (28~30 degree) for 3~7 days continuously starting from 12th August 2009. Same as previous project, I’ll be using Fluke Digital Thermometer to take down all the temperature reading as precaution measure. I would also like to take the par reading however I do not have the PAR meter on hand so I have to drop off this idea at the meantime.

First test is to run the light set for 16~20 hours continuously with 2 fans running and measure the temperature every one hour interval. If the temperature increases to more than 50 degrees, I may consider add in Fin heat sink and repeat the process again but I doubt it needed.

Second test is to run the set for 8~10/16~20 hours without fan but I have to monitor very closely and perform temperature taking every 20~30 minutes as I do not want to “cook†my LEDs and wrap my acrylic. I’m expecting the temperature to rise to 60~70 degrees which is still within the SSC P4 LED specification. Otherwise, Fin heat sink may be considered as “adds-in†and the whole process of testing needs to be repeated. This particular test is meant to create a scenario that in case 2 fans malfunction when I‘m not at home, it will not burn off my LEDs within a period of time.

Total output “Kelvin†by visual is estimated to be about 12~14KK.

Future upgrades (Optional)

1.Add DIY programmable dimmer circuit or purchase off-the shelf product to create dawn-and-dusk simulation effect.

2.Add DIY circuit to cutoff the LED when Chiller malfunctions or purchase off-the shelf product.

Total Cost and Parts Used (SGD)

MISC

Tank Details

Mix Reef 2ft cube tank. Corals are birdnest, monti, acro, zoa, blasto, prata, acan, goni .. etc.

Currently there is no fishes but with some inverts.

Equipment: Vortech MP40W & MP20, TLF FR, Arctica 1/10hp powered by AB1000, Eheim 1260 return pump, Schuran JetSkim 120

Conclusion

With my existing 22 LEDs lighting design, although I have no PAR meter to measure the PAR value, ,I can still see the improvement growth of a few of my injured monti, that were previously given by some other fellow reefers, via visual and daily monitoring. My super monti have significantly grown from 1†to 3†within 4 months, with improvement in the coloration (the weak brown monti has gradually changed to its original blue).

I preferred LED lighting design as it can help to reduce the heat by more than 50% as compared to MH bulb, and also significantly reduced the total electricity cost by 30~40% per month. Therefore, it helps to sustain my marine hobby which I always love and at the same time promotes ECO conservation.

From my past experience and continuous exploration , I have decided to re-build another entirely new and better LED fixture to further promote the growth of the corals in my tank as lighting is one of the essential yet important factor in nurturing healthy marine reefs.

With this, I would like to take the opportunity to express my grateful thanks to my wife and 2 obedient children who have been supporting me fully in my project and hobby. And I also like to thank those who have contributed their time in providing advice, comment and feedback to me in making this project a success.

Big Thanks !

[RockyBoy]

My new LED fixture design's concept and philosophy :

Finally, my new baby was born on National Day, 9th August 2009, 2330 after a long process of planning, designing and implementation. My new LED fixture was successfully created and completed with the following concept and philosophy:

(1) Slimmest, light, neat and durable

(2) Cost efficient, with high quality & standard

(3) Wide Light spread without spotted effect

(4) Ease of access for repair and maintenance

(5) Scalability for future upgrade(Optional)

From the series of pictures that I have posted, you can see the whole process of using only White acrylic to box up the entire light as a fixture. I preferred acrylic material as it is very light weight and easy to drill as compared to aluminum, and also have various colors as choices. As for the heat sink, I’m using a 3mm aluminum plate instead of fin heat sink as it looks very bulky and also put on weight which is against my design concept and personal liking. Wires are all hidden and done behind the aluminum plate to have neat outlook.

For this project, I have improved the design by reducing the height of 8mm to 6.5mm (slimmer) without affecting the ventilation, added more LEDs includes 4 UV for better area coverage, larger plate size of aluminum sheet to cater for fast heat transfer, 2 fans for air circulation (22 CFM/fan) and last but not least, creating the refreshing design of fixture layout internally & externally by using WHITE acrylic as compared to the 1st LEDs black fixture that I'm using it now.

My 1st LED black fixture

My 1st LED black fixture -Light on

Testing

I’m going to do 2 reliability tests at the room temperature (28~30 degree) for 3~7 days continuously starting from 12th August 2009. Same as previous project, I’ll be using Fluke Digital Thermometer to take down all the temperature reading as precaution measure. I would also like to take the par reading however I do not have the PAR meter on hand so I have to drop off this idea at the meantime.

First test is to run the light set for 16~20 hours continuously with 2 fans running and measure the temperature every one hour interval. If the temperature increases to more than 50 degrees, I may consider add in Fin heat sink and repeat the process again but I doubt it needed.

Second test is to run the set for 8~10/16~20 hours without fan but I have to monitor very closely and perform temperature taking every 20~30 minutes as I do not want to “cook†my LEDs and wrap my acrylic. I’m expecting the temperature to rise to 60~70 degrees which is still within the SSC P4 LED specification. Otherwise, Fin heat sink may be considered as “adds-in†and the whole process of testing needs to be repeated. This particular test is meant to create a scenario that in case 2 fans malfunction when I‘m not at home, it will not burn off my LEDs within a period of time.

Total output “Kelvin†by visual is estimated to be about 12~14KK.

Future upgrades (Optional)

1.Add DIY programmable dimmer circuit or purchase off-the shelf product to create dawn-and-dusk simulation effect.

2.Add DIY circuit to cutoff the LED when Chiller malfunctions or purchase off-the shelf product.

Total Cost and Parts Used (SGD)

MISC

Tank Details

Mix Reef 2ft cube tank. Corals are birdnest, monti, acro, zoa, blasto, prata, acan, goni .. etc.

Currently there is no fishes but with some inverts.

Equipment: Vortech MP40W & MP20, TLF FR, Arctica 1/10hp powered by AB1000, Eheim 1260 return pump, Schuran JetSkim 120

Conclusion

With my existing 22 LEDs lighting design, although I have no PAR meter to measure the PAR value, ,I can still see the improvement growth of a few of my injured monti, that were previously given by some other fellow reefers, via visual and daily monitoring. My super monti have significantly grown from 1†to 3†within 4 months, with improvement in the coloration (the weak brown monti has gradually changed to its original blue).

I preferred LED lighting design as it can help to reduce the heat by more than 50% as compared to MH bulb, and also significantly reduced the total electricity cost by 30~40% per month. Therefore, it helps to sustain my marine hobby which I always love and at the same time promotes ECO conservation.

From my past experience and continuous exploration , I have decided to re-build another entirely new and better LED fixture to further promote the growth of the corals in my tank as lighting is one of the essential yet important factor in nurturing healthy marine reefs.

With this, I would like to take the opportunity to express my grateful thanks to my wife and 2 obedient children who have been supporting me fully in my project and hobby. And I also like to thank those who have contributed their time in providing advice, comment and feedback to me in making this project a success.

Big Thanks !

Hi Bro,

Thanks for sharing on your LED DIY and breaking down the costs.

I do hope more reefers would start using LEDs whether by buying off the shelves or DIYing as this will definitely trim the maintenance cost.

[TFMANIAC]

despite the initial cost being so high...

I think the electricity costs on the long run would be most worthwhile.

I must comment on the sleekness and professional quality of your DIY work.

There's a possibility of marketing what you've created.

Keep up the Astounding work.

[Jameshong]

despite the initial cost being so high...

I think the electricity costs on the long run would be most worthwhile.

I must comment on the sleekness and professional quality of your DIY work.

There's a possibility of marketing what you've created.

Keep up the Astounding work.

Thanks for the compliment .

BTW, I have no intention of commercialize the product and also not qualify too .

DIYing is part of my hobby too beside marine hobby and I really enjoy the feeling of the self satifaction and achievement at the end of each project !

[Jameshong]

Dear fellow reefers,

I have recieved many inquiries regards to where I purchased the LED from. I'm sorry that I do not have time to reply you individually as such, to benefit of all DIY newbies, I will post it here.

You can get the LED, len and star metal core PCB from;

DealExtreme Free Shipping.

Kaidomain Free Shipping.

Or locally...you can look for fellow reefer, Sherman. He is a nice guy and also DIY LED guru who has the lobang getting it locally.

Meanwell Power Supply (build in LED driver)

SM System Control Pte Ltd

No 2 Woodlands Sector 1

#05-06 Spectrum 1

Singapore 738068

Tel: 65-68532555 Fax: 65-68531555

Bond-Ply Adhesive tape

RS Singapore

Acrylic

Website: Dama

Main & Sales Office

Blk 3029A,

Ubi Road 3,

#01-98 & 01-99

Singapore 408661.

Tel: (+65)-6743 6100 (30 Lines)

Fax: (+65)-6395 9100 / 6382 0700

Business Hours

Monday – Friday : 8.30am – 8.00pm*

*Evening 6.30pm – 8.00pm (self collection only)

Saturday : 8.30am – 3.00pm

Close on Sunday and Public Holiday

[jyoon]

Hi Bro

Thanks for sharing with all the reefers. Indeed, you DIY skill is like a pro.

[justintime]

Yo,

Thank you for sharing your journey, its a great read!

[peong]

Great work n learnt something new. May I know why using LED lighting and not T5 or MH? Is't cos of the heat products by T5 n MH? Especially for SPS keeping, why use LED?

[RockyBoy]

Great work n learnt something new. May I know why using LED lighting and not T5 or MH? Is't cos of the heat products by T5 n MH? Especially for SPS keeping, why use LED?

You should see the light spectrum. I think much better than the MH or T5 at the blue region. Since the LED intensity is getting brighter, LED is a way to go for reefing. On top of it, the heat radiating from the light to the water is extremely low, so the chiller will run lesser, maintenance of chiller is lesser, electricity bills is lesser.

I've seen my chiller work less after installing my 129LEDs for my 3x3 mostly sps tank. Before was 2x250WMH + 6x39W T5, when everything on, chiller need to run 3 hour to chill from 28 to 26 degC, Now, with full LED on, run about 1 hour, same as when all the lights are switched off.

[Terryz_]

You should see the light spectrum. I think much better than the MH or T5 at the blue region. Since the LED intensity is getting brighter, LED is a way to go for reefing. On top of it, the heat radiating from the light to the water is extremely low, so the chiller will run lesser, maintenance of chiller is lesser, electricity bills is lesser.

I've seen my chiller work less after installing my 129LEDs for my 3x3 mostly sps tank. Before was 2x250WMH + 6x39W T5, when everything on, chiller need to run 3 hour to chill from 28 to 26 degC, Now, with full LED on, run about 1 hour, same as when all the lights are switched off.

Bro, Can I know the placement for your LED on your 3x3 tank? I am thinking using LED but cant decide on the LED number and placement..

Thanks..

[peong]

Enlightening, thx for your input.

[reefcrazy]

hi bro jameshong,

i don't have much knowledge of electrical engineering but i am thinking of trying out a diy led project myself. i hope this is not too much to ask, but is it possible for you to provide some description and perhaps even a schematic diagram to explain how to put together a led lighting system like yours? it will go a long way to helping fellow reefers like myself embark on similar diy projects.

thanking you in advance.

[sherman]

You should see the light spectrum. I think much better than the MH or T5 at the blue region. Since the LED intensity is getting brighter, LED is a way to go for reefing. On top of it, the heat radiating from the light to the water is extremely low, so the chiller will run lesser, maintenance of chiller is lesser, electricity bills is lesser.

I've seen my chiller work less after installing my 129LEDs for my 3x3 mostly sps tank. Before was 2x250WMH + 6x39W T5, when everything on, chiller need to run 3 hour to chill from 28 to 26 degC, Now, with full LED on, run about 1 hour, same as when all the lights are switched off.

Wow that is great news for those who still wonder to go green or not.

[sherman]

Bro, Can I know the placement for your LED on your 3x3 tank? I am thinking using LED but cant decide on the LED number and placement..

Thanks..

Bro,

Follow the LED light thread.There is a lot of detail in there.

[Jameshong]

hi bro jameshong,

i don't have much knowledge of electrical engineering but i am thinking of trying out a diy led project myself. i hope this is not too much to ask, but is it possible for you to provide some description and perhaps even a schematic diagram to explain how to put together a led lighting system like yours? it will go a long way to helping fellow reefers like myself embark on similar diy projects.

thanking you in advance.

Hi reefcrazy,

It is a simple connection from (+)LED(-) to (+)LED(-) so no need schematic diagram, however you need some soldering skill and proper tools !

The most important is design and plan your LED to LED spacing, White and royal blue combination, overall layout, ideal size of the lightset... ahead.

[jyoon]

Hi reefcrazy,

It is a simple connection from (+)LED(-) to (+)LED(-) so no need schematic diagram, however you need some soldering skill and proper tools !

The most important is design and plan your LED to LED spacing, White and royal blue combination, overall layout, ideal size of the lightset... ahead.

Thanks Bro

Is yuor aluminium sheet use as heat sink? What is the wattage per LED you used? I am also thinking of DIY a LED set too.

[Jameshong]

Thanks Bro

Is yuor aluminium sheet use as heat sink? What is the wattage per LED you used? I am also thinking of DIY a LED set too.

Yes, use aluminum sheet as heat sink and LED is 3watt/LED.

[RockyBoy]

Bro, Can I know the placement for your LED on your 3x3 tank? I am thinking using LED but cant decide on the LED number and placement..

Thanks..

Hi bro,

Attached is my LED layout. The top right corner is where my overflow box is, so no need to put any LEDs.

Since my tank is 2.5feet deep, to penetrate deeper, I use the 60deg lens for those areas that need the extra reach, which are at the fronts

LED_wirings.pdf

[RockyBoy]

hi bro jameshong,

i don't have much knowledge of electrical engineering but i am thinking of trying out a diy led project myself. i hope this is not too much to ask, but is it possible for you to provide some description and perhaps even a schematic diagram to explain how to put together a led lighting system like yours? it will go a long way to helping fellow reefers like myself embark on similar diy projects.

thanking you in advance.

Hi Bro,

Good that you want to go green by LED'ing. You can either go by easy method or difficult method. Easy method is just buying the complete set with warranty etc, from our sponsor or the difficult method, which is DIYing. Of course DIYing can save lots of moolas but lots of troubles doing soldering, troubleshooting, heat issues to overcome, etc, etc, but still very doable by anyone.

[peong]

Hi Jameshong,

I thought UV light is harmful to corals n human, is't necessary to have UV LED?