Jump to content

Advice needed on converting FW to SW Tank


Recommended Posts

  • SRC Member

After several false starts and reality checks, have finally gotten myself a used freshwater tank from a kind friend to start this hobby. Need advice on several noobie questions. Firstly, a few visuals of the tank:

post-16489-1244029909.jpg

post-16489-1244029919.jpg

post-16489-1244029927.jpg

External dimensions of tank is 3 x 1.5 x 1.5 (6mm thick), taking away the section at the side for filtering, the actual tank size is ard 2 x 1.5 x 1.5, which works out to around 40 gallons. if you look closely, there are 2 glass panes in the filter section (let's call this the 1st chamber). My friend used this for an 'over and underflow' system to clear detritus through the small opening at the bottom. Water enters the 1st chamber through the 3 holes at the top, which are abit smaller than your 5 cent coin, passing through the filter, before passing underneath the center pane of glass into the 2nd chamber to be pumped back into the tank.

1) Firstly can this tank be converted into a sumpless SW tank?

Based on my noob knowledge and from combing the library, forum and internet for information, I am thinking of getting the Deltec MCE 600 skimmer hanged at the back of the tank. Chamber 1 can be filled with filter media (any advice on what needs to be done here? Bio, Mechanical or Chemical filtration?) While chamber 2 will have the return pump back into the tank.

2) If I have enough LRs, does that mean I don't need anymore bio filtration? and how much is enough LR? based on the normal convention of 1 and a half pounds per gallon of water is a good guage?

3) How do I work out the flow rate needed for the return pump? absolutely clueless on what pump to get... maybe I can get those Hydor ones... can adjust the flowrate?

4) If i get a chiller, how will it be connected to this setup? Can I just depend on 1 main pump to do everything? or do I need to get 1 pump for chiller, another for return?

post-16489-1244031599.jpg

5) If I keep a sand bed, it will totally cover the small opening at the bottom in the outer glass pane in chamber 1. Will that pose a problem? (as in will i end up with sand floating into the filter chamber?)

6) Should I get 2 uber nano wave makers or 1 bigger wave maker? Prob only need 15-20x circulation, so thinking of getting either the Tunze 6025 (rated 2500L/hr which gives me ard 17x) or 2 Hydor Koralia 1 (rated 1500L/hr ea which gives me 20x)

I intend to keep fishes, softies and prob LPS, think there is enough to play ard w/o going into SPS :) So to recap, here are the list of items I'm intending to beg, borrow, steal (ahem i mean buy) for this system, Do give me your recommendations/suggestions/advice?

Shopping List

1) 25-30kg of LR

2) Sand bed of 1" (Or should I go for a DSB?)

3) 3 ft Illummax Pro 4 x 39W (dang they just raised the price zzz)

4) Deltec MCE 600

5) Rowaphos for the media chamber in MCE 600 (enough space to put?)

6) Some sort of filtration media to put into chamber 1 (help anyone?)

7) Return pump + Chiller pump? (thinking of either Hydor or Eheim, any recommendations?)

8) Hailea HC 150 1/10 Chiller

9) Tunze 6025 or 2 x Hydor Koralia 1?

10) Refractometer

11) PH Meter

12) Test Kits for Ammonia, Nitrates, Nitrites, Phosphate (will get the rest later...)

13) Themormeter

14) Auto timer plug for lights (anyone knows where to get these cheap?)

15) Tropic Marin Salt

hmmm anything I missed out? :paiseh: paiseh i always tend to overwrite... thanks in advance!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

good research...can see you have been reading and learning.....will try to answer yr queries but please take as reference...as i am new also....

1) Firstly can this tank be converted into a sumpless SW tank?

the filtration system can remain. bro rayman was using this setup also. a good choice skimmer as it will not take up yr tank space. you can either use the chamber in mce600 or use the space in your compartment, using media bag.

2) If I have enough LRs, does that mean I don't need anymore bio filtration? and how much is enough LR? based on the normal convention of 1 and a half pounds per gallon of water is a good guage?

For live rock, it depends on your scaping and you can add some in the compartment to act as bio filtration. However, 2 school of thoughts...can help in denitrifying or act as time bomb.....

3) How do I work out the flow rate needed for the return pump? absolutely clueless on what pump to get... maybe I can get those Hydor ones... can adjust the flowrate?

Think work on 2000 or 2000i pump, especially you intend to run a chiller....the elbow joint, etc will reduce the flowrate....

4) If i get a chiller, how will it be connected to this setup? Can I just depend on 1 main pump to do everything? or do I need to get 1 pump for chiller, another for return?

post-16489-1244031599.jpg

in your return compartment, use a pump to pump water thr chiller then back to you tank. Good to have 2 returns but due to space constraint, you are likely to stick to one....

5) If I keep a sand bed, it will totally cover the small opening at the bottom in the outer glass pane in chamber 1. Will that pose a problem? (as in will i end up with sand floating into the filter chamber?)

you might want to use mesh or silicon to cover the opening....if you using bare bottem,....should be alright but still need to cover up to prevent livestocks from going into it...

6) Should I get 2 uber nano wave makers or 1 bigger wave maker? Prob only need 15-20x circulation, so thinking of getting either the Tunze 6025 (rated 2500L/hr which gives me ard 17x) or 2 Hydor Koralia 1 (rated 1500L/hr ea which gives me 20x)

can always try one and add on if necessary.....

I intend to keep fishes, softies and prob LPS, think there is enough to play ard w/o going into SPS :) So to recap, here are the list of items I'm intending to beg, borrow, steal (ahem i mean buy) for this system, Do give me your recommendations/suggestions/advice?

Shopping List

1) 25-30kg of LR - go iwarna or t95.....

2) Sand bed of 1" (Or should I go for a DSB?) - DSB you will need 5 to 6 inches....as your tank is around 1.5, you may want to give this a miss...

3) 3 ft Illummax Pro 4 x 39W (dang they just raised the price zzz) - you can look for second hand or diy...

4) Deltec MCE 600 - go reefdepot at shunfu estate

5) Rowaphos for the media chamber in MCE 600 (enough space to put?) - you can get a media bag to put in the skimmer or buy the media box for mce600

6) Some sort of filtration media to put into chamber 1 (help anyone?) - biohome, chemipure, carbon, etc.

7) Return pump + Chiller pump? (thinking of either Hydor or Eheim, any recommendations?) - eheim is a reliable pump.....

8) Hailea HC 150 1/10 Chiller - should be ok.....

9) Tunze 6025 or 2 x Hydor Koralia 1? - i will go for tunze cos the neck for hydor seems fragile....

10) Refractometer - easily available in lfs....or see second hand....

11) PH Meter - same as item 10

12) Test Kits for Ammonia, Nitrates, Nitrites, Phosphate (will get the rest later...)......got others....good to test but think some of us didnt test .....

13) Themormeter ... same as item 10

14) Auto timer plug for lights (anyone knows where to get these cheap?) - think ntuc got sell those cheaper one.....go sim lim tower...

15) Tropic Marin Salt - good salt to start with...

all the best bro.

Tank : 4 X 2 X 2 with low iron front panel and external overflow

Skimmer : BK SM200 with waste collector

Return Pumps : Red Dragon 6m3 and Ehiem 1262

FR : 2 X Deltec 509 & powered by AB2000

Nitrate Filter : Deltec NF 509 and tee off from AB2000

Calcium R'tor : Deltec PF 501 with RM secondary chamber

Kalkwasser R'tor : Deltec KM500

Chiller : Pansonic 1 HP Compressor with 20m titanium Coil

Wave Makers : 4 X Tunze 6055 with 7096 & Vortec MP40w

Controller : GHL Profilux

Lighting : ATI Powermodule 10 or 8 tubes

Water Top-up : Water Top-Up tank powered by Tunze Osmolator

External Monitor : American Pinpoint pH and Temp. Monitor for main tank and GHL Profilux Controller to measure temp, pH, Redox

Ozonizer : Sander C50

UV : Corallife 6x

Algae Scrubbler

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

Thanks bro! still learning... there's so much to read on! appreciate if any others have any comments.

in the mean time, sneak some more questions during my lunchtime :P To assist those who think I'm too long winded, questions tt need to be answered will be highlighted in blue :)

Will be getting my live sand and LR from a fellow reefer this sat. Hope to seek advice on cycling tank. There seems to be quite a few school of thoughts, just like to work out a time table to stick to.

Day 1: Aerate Water.

Day 2: Mix Salt, install wavemaker and return pump to aid mixing.

Day 3: Test salinity, install mechanical filter (to clean daily). Add live sand, switch off wavemaker to let sand settle. Add live rocks and add prawn to kick start ANN process.

Test and chart salinity, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate (once every 2-3 days?)

Day 10: Install skimmer, test and adjust settings accordingly. Install PH meter, themormeter and lights.

Continue charting ANN + salinity, phosphate, pH, alkalinity, temperature. Lights are switched on for 2 hours to measure temperature of water.

Day 17: Install chemical filter: Rowaphos in MCE 600 and Chemipure + poly filter in filter chamber

More charting, when cycle is finally complete…

50% water change, Install chiller, slowly add LS, corals

1) Clarify when to install skimmer due to contradicting info online. Since function of skimmer is to “remove certain organic and inorganic compounds including proteins and amino acids, fats, fatty acids, carbohydrates, metals, trace elements like iodine, detritus, phytoplankton and bacteria.†So I’m guessing I wouldn’t want to start skimming all that soon, sticking to after 7 days of cycling? Purpose of skimming now is more to test and make any adjustment to the skimmer than anything. Can probably switch it off once its redundant?

2) Again, contradicting info on when to install chemical filter. Function of Rowaphos is to remove Phosphate and Silicate, while Chemipure removes offensive ordors and removes toxic elements like copper & phenol. My rationale is to allow tank to cycle for a while before determining how much chemical filtration is needed?

3) Rationale for not changing water during cycling is to allow proper cycling (would rather wait to get healthy tank rather than hurry through it). Is there still a need to change water once cycled?

All suggestions/comments are welcome!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share



×
×
  • Create New...