DI water questions

[Fuzzy]

I'm using the 3 stage Crystal Pro to produce DI water at the moment, its all ok, TDS of input water 60ppm and output is 0ppm.

Thing is I've read that DI water is unstable and needs to be left overnight and stuff like that, is there any truth to that?

If so what does this "ionic instability" do to a marine tank?

I have some coral chips soaking in my 60 litre holding tank for my DI water, I use it for topping up a handful of FW tanks as well as for mixing salt and topup of my nano.

Does DI water really need to be remineralized like its always recommended for RO water?

Also, I know the Carbon stage is supposed to remove chlorine and chloramine from the water, but I sometimes still detect a faint chlorine smell in the output water, and have been using

a small dose (5% of recommended) of antichlorine/chloramine in each batch of water I draw.

Has anyone else experienced this with the Crystal Pro? I don't have a Chlorine / Chloramine test kit, and don't really feel that compelled to go get one...

[Gouldian]

I'm using the 3 stage Crystal Pro to produce DI water at the moment, its all ok, TDS of input water 60ppm and output is 0ppm.

Thing is I've read that DI water is unstable and needs to be left overnight and stuff like that, is there any truth to that?

If so what does this "ionic instability" do to a marine tank?

I have some coral chips soaking in my 60 litre holding tank for my DI water, I use it for topping up a handful of FW tanks as well as for mixing salt and topup of my nano.

Does DI water really need to be remineralized like its always recommended for RO water?

Also, I know the Carbon stage is supposed to remove chlorine and chloramine from the water, but I sometimes still detect a faint chlorine smell in the output water, and have been using

a small dose (5% of recommended) of antichlorine/chloramine in each batch of water I draw.

Has anyone else experienced this with the Crystal Pro? I don't have a Chlorine / Chloramine test kit, and don't really feel that compelled to go get one...

Hi Bro,

Remineralization is needed when you are using it in fresh water application. For marine, we either uses DI for water top up or with salt-mix, Salt-mix contains the necessary trace and minerals need by the tank thus there is no need to remineralize your DI water. As for water top up, it replaces evaporated water without the minerals thus it is also not necessary to remineralize.

If your TDS is measuring 0, I think it should be safe to use without needing to add anti-chlorine.

HTH

[Fuzzy]

Hi Bro,

Remineralization is needed when you are using it in fresh water application. For marine, we either uses DI for water top up or with salt-mix, Salt-mix contains the necessary trace and minerals need by the tank thus there is no need to remineralize your DI water. As for water top up, it replaces evaporated water without the minerals thus it is also not necessary to remineralize.

If your TDS is measuring 0, I think it should be safe to use without needing to add anti-chlorine.

HTH

Thanks bro! I'll probably cave in and invest in a chlorine test kit for peace of mind at some point. You top up DI water directly without buffering or treating it to your marine tank?

I've been remineralizing for my brackish, FW and SW tanks.

Heh, guess I can save some of the additives for my FW tanks.

[Gouldian]

Thanks bro! I'll probably cave in and invest in a chlorine test kit for peace of mind at some point. You top up DI water directly without buffering or treating it to your marine tank?

I've been remineralizing for my brackish, FW and SW tanks.

Heh, guess I can save some of the additives for my FW tanks.

Yes bro, most of us replace evaporated water with distilled, DI or RO water straight without any additional treatment. I have replace evaporated water with DI previously and now switch to distilled water.

For FW tank, you definitely need to remineralize, if not it will affect your pH.

HTH

[Fuzzy]

Yes bro, most of us replace evaporated water with distilled, DI or RO water straight without any additional treatment. I have replace evaporated water with DI previously and now switch to distilled water.

For FW tank, you definitely need to remineralize, if not it will affect your pH.

HTH

Is it cheaper to use distilled water in the long run? I don't really have a point of comparison until I exhaust this set of cartridges for the DI.

Or are you doing it for concerns of water purity / space constraints.

I'm assuming you're ordering bottled water delivered to your doorstep?

Which vendor and what kind of price/quantity are you getting atm?

Hehe thanks in advance! Was actually quite surprised noone had brought up this topic earlier on here actually.

[Gouldian]

Is it cheaper to use distilled water in the long run? I don't really have a point of comparison until I exhaust this set of cartridges for the DI.

Or are you doing it for concerns of water purity / space constraints.

I'm assuming you're ordering bottled water delivered to your doorstep?

Which vendor and what kind of price/quantity are you getting atm?

Hehe thanks in advance! Was actually quite surprised noone had brought up this topic earlier on here actually.

Hi bro,

Never really do the maths on DI vs distilled. But use distilled due to the follwing reasons:

1) Don't have to deal with the slow dripping typical of DI and RO/DI

2) Don't have to bother about changing medias

3) Don't have to measure TDS on every batch, I don't measure TDS periodically to ensure that my distilled water quality do not drop

Not much of a space constraint as I order 2 btls weekly and at most I will have 4 btls lying around at home.

I have a contract with Candid Water Cooler Pte Ltd which supply Aplheus. I find their quality is very consistent compared to the cheaper distilled water which I have heard TDS will varies between batches.

HTH