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ambystoma82
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<_< So wat happen to his bubble mushies now ???

i been wanting to find a nice colour to import but no much data on it yet...

very few pple hv kept e red specimen..b4.. suppsoe to b bro n sis of ricordea seas..

bro jervisium nv reply me leh

guess he is busy with his projects..

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if bro jervisium his bubble still ard would look like this... :rolleyes:

bro reddevil : mayb something we cant provide tht they had in e wild?

but if such a red bubbly mush without e hair like tips i would still buy..

btw erd devil where u buy urs?

is the one frm coral fanatics same asthis or different variation ?

but its suspiciously cheap lolx...

post-2836-1241577342.jpg

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i tink mine is not e biggest yet..

according to advanced aquarist e max. size in wild is abt 15cm..

looks like got 2cm+ more to go..

That's not very far off bro.. U can submit for Guiness record after that. haha :idea:

Main Tank: 5 x 1 x 1

Return from overflow: Eheim compact+ 5000

Lighting: 2x 54W T5

Skimmer: Deltec SC 1350

Chiller: Arctica 1/10

Wave Maker: Tunze Nano Wavebox & Tunze 6055 with Photocell
Monitor 1: American Marine Pinpoint pH monitor
Monitor 2: American Marine Pinpoint Temperature monitor

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some things u duno abt t5 by Anthony Calfo

for what i knw most of us less those run fan cooling dun hv cooling to their tubes.. only water...

summarise.. cooling is impt over long hrs it might deplete e bulb life and brightness..

brightness is not determine by e ###### eye but by e PAR... due to insufficient cooling..

COOLING

Having the proper operating temperature of T5 lamps is probably the most neglected and underrated element of lighting systems. A startling number of commercial fixtures run way too hot, and DIY systems run an even wilder gamut of cool to (mostly) too hot. You need to understand that adequate cooling is crucial to maintaining lamp life and quality. Without it, the lamps will ignite and look bright or at least fairly so initially, but the amount of useful light (PAR) can be wrecked in mere hours to days of lamps running too hot (decaying significantly due to overheating).

Some manufacturers skimp on cooling because of the added expense of fans, although this initial savings is soon negated in premature replacements. Others do it because of the nuisance (a common consumer complaint) of too many wires on lighting systems such as those with additional fans. Another reason is to save money and make their units appear cheaper than others. Others skimp on active cooling to maintain a slimmer product profile. Others still rely on helpful but still inadequate passive ventilation or heat sinks. At the end of the day, it doesn’t matter how the lamps maintain optimal temps just so long as the job gets done. Some sort of active cooling (fans) is likely necessary in most cases.Buy or borrow a good (quantum) PAR meter and see the amazing differences between bright hot systems and bright cool systems; the difference can be staggering. DIYers need to heed this warning especially. Suspending a homemade kit and hoping for the best (passive cooling) is almost certainly not going to give you good light or long lamp life. As an example, I recall consulting a commercial anemone farmer recently that bought top shelf quality T5 lamps, reflectors and ballasts. It was a small fortune of an investment. After several months though he complained that the growth in his anemones and corals was remarkably slow… taking 4 to 6 times longer than other farmers. I tried diagnosing the problem by email but quickly resorted to simply visiting him on a trip to lecture at the local hobby club. When I first walked into the door of this farmer’s facility my heart sank; a field of magnificent T5s were suspended in the right number and proper heights from the culture tanks… but without any appreciable heat dissipation whatsoever! Instead of getting PAR readings at the surface of 500-600, he was getting about 100. And PAR readings on the floor of the tank where the anemones were that should have been 200-300 were reading only 19! Thousands of dollars in new T5 lamps were ruined and as bright as these fixtures seemed, the useful light being issued from the hot lamps was dismal.

REFLECTORS

Perhaps nearly as neglected an issue as cooling, reflectors are a crucial component of optimal lighting efforts. You maybe surprised to learn a few things here too. For starters, contrary to popular beliefs, lamps with internal reflectors do not produce more light than non-reflector lamps that employ a good external reflector! With a range of lamps, IceCap has tested the difference to be on average 40% favoring standard lamps with external reflectors. And not all external reflectors are alike or similar enough. Materials and designs make this category spread over a wide range of efficiency. IceCap T5 reflectors lead the industry with heat dissipating clip-on aluminum units that are 95% reflective. Be sure to buy the best reflectors you can afford to maximize the value of your investment (the fixed lamps and your ongoing electricity expense).

OVERDRIVING

On a slightly more advanced topic, aquarists often debate the merits of overdriving T5 lamps. As the name suggests, overdriving is a matter of running more electricity through a given lamp than it is labeled for. The advantage is more light produced and less lamps needed (a considerable savings over time on additional lamp operation and replacements). The disadvantage is that overdriving shortens the life of the lamp. Where the critic’s argument really falls apart though is when it comes to the useful life of a lamp. Properly cooled T5 lamps will not expire from overdriving before their useful life has run to term. That is to say… while a normally operated T5 lamp might last for years before it blinks off, its useful life (producing adequate PAR illumination) is only about a year. Overdriven lamps can last the full useful term of their lifespan and as such are an advantage in my opinion. There are also some brands of T5 lamps that utilize a heavy-duty filament inside the lamp that is designed to handle more current and be overdriven. Keep your coral reef running smoothly by also keeping your lamps clean - free of dust and debris - and replace lamps regularly to reduce the risk of severe light deprivation or shock to corals. T5s should be replaced annually or sooner and preferably in a staggered sequence for multi-lamp systems.

Look for coverage on understanding and choosing the best lamp color combinations in our next installment on Things You Thought You Knew About T5 Lighting.

read full article here...

http://ottawainverts.com/

i dnuo abt how truth e other stories r but at least this one is by anthony calfo himself.. :D

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not realli tht much skimming advantage..

nv like e red colour on skimmers... :eyeblur:

Why don't like the red colour? Clash with the colours of your tank, your nemos fashion conscious is it? :upsidedown:

My 1.5ft nano cube

My 24G nano tank (Decommed)

I can picture in my mind a world without war, a world without hate.

And I can picture us attacking that world, because they'd never expect it.

-- Jack Handey

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hey sis found a website selling e serene nova...

sold out... lolx

hw is urs doin ?

So far don't see anymore signs of melt off. Hope will start to grow again. Post a recent pic in my thread liao. :)

Member of:

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