Mega Powerful Nitrate and Phosphate Remover - DIY!

[SantaMonica]

Part 7 of 7:

"The Food of Reefs, Part 7: Dissolved Nutrients" by Eric Borneman

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-04/eb/index.php

"Mucus consists of mainly sugars and glycoproteins - soluble materials in and of themselves. However, the formation of mucus, and its release in a matrix of chains of these materials, may result in a particulate material. This material is both utilized directly by many organisms, and also forms the basis for a predominant fraction of the particulate "marine snow" on reefs.

"In fact, reef waters are 30-40% higher in DOM [disolved organic matter] than oceanic waters.

"In terms of determining the degree to which organisms may use dissolved material as significant source of nutrition, one may examine the surface area of the outer cell membranes exposed to such materials. In general, the larger the absorptive area, the more likely organisms are to depend on absorption. Some cell surfaces are covered with many finger-like processes called microvilli that greatly increase the surface area of the membrane. Furthermore, the presence of cilia is often a good indicator of absorptive surfaces. Perhaps not surprisingly, corals have extensive microvilli and cilia.

"Corals are able to take up various forms of both organic and inorganic dissolved nitrogen.

"Even slightly elevated nitrogen levels can quickly result in rapid increases in the density of zooxanthellae, as they use it to fuel their own reproduction" [and thus turn the coral brown]

"It is also somewhat equivocal that corals are able to utilize nitrate (which exists nearly totally in its ionic state at physiological pH) at all, and an inability to find nitrate reductase in many studies, makes the ultimate importance of this dissolved nitrogen source to corals (and anemones) rather tenuous. However, it is unambiguously true that ammonium is a sought-after nitrogen source by both coral host and algal partner.

"Humic (refractory) compounds: These yellowing compounds are typically found at relatively high levels in aquaria, and they are removed with protein skimming and activated carbon. Humic materials have been thought to be relatively inert and unavailable for use as a nutrient source. However, studies have shown that organisms from bacteria to brine shrimp (Artemia salina) can utilize humic substances as a source of nutrients.

"In terms of corals reefs, the amounts of most dissolved nutrients, except carbon in most cases, are very low.

"The higher nutrient levels may cause corals and other symbiotic partnerships to decline as the partner algae preferentially utilize the increased nutrient sources to the expense of the host. [and thus browning of the coral occurs]

"Without question, corals and many reef organisms are able to utilize dissolved nutrients to help meet their energy requirements and to use in tissue growth.

[yellowtanker]

Bro Creetin, thanks for yr kind words. Priviledge is mine to know a nice reefer bro like you!

Bro SantaMonica - Part 7 of 7 already?!

The End?

Please don't let this wonderful thread come to an end.

Once again, thanks for a great great thread.

[SantaMonica]

No tanker, that is just the quotes from Eric's articles, from his Food series. There are more from him, and more from others, that I'll post periodically.

[yellowtanker]

No tanker, that is just the quotes from Eric's articles, from his Food series. There are more from him, and more from others, that I'll post periodically.

Phew...

[snaper]

Hi S.M,

Finally i manage to get my Nano Scrubber Box up running after the second attempt and this is the result from 1st to 5th

day. Been running it 24/7 as i got nothing to seed on the screen and also wanted to see fast result. Will start running it

with 18hr of light On today as theres something growing on the screen already. For now im running both the scrubber

and skimmer.

Rgds

Snaper

[SantaMonica]

Looks really neat. Where is the pump?

[snaper]

Looks really neat. Where is the pump?

Im using my returned pump from the IOS and split it to my scrubber and main tank.

By the way should i turn off my prizm skimmer cuz theres not much skimate and the

only time when it skim is 1hr after i dose food for the coral.

For my Scrubber im using 8 x 5 screen shine on one side as my tank volume is about

20gl. For the light, currently im using 2x11watt =22watt 2700k as i cant find a 23watt

bulb. Is my scrubber set-up ok?

Rgds

[SantaMonica]

Yes your lights are good for that small size. And yes turn off the skimmer; why remove all that food.

[snaper]

Yes your lights are good for that small size. And yes turn off the skimmer; why remove all that food.

ok, will turn off the skimmer then. So will run purely run on scrubber only? So should

continue do partial water change or just once in a while.

Rgds

[peacemaker]

Bro Creetin, do you have any before and after pics of your display ever since using the scrubber?

[SantaMonica]

If the purpose of a water change is to remove nitrate and phosphate, then you don't need to do them any more. The scrubber (as long as it is growing algae) removes everything that needs removing (just like the ocean). A scrubber, however, does not remove things like medications and poisions.

[snaper]

If the purpose of a water change is to remove nitrate and phosphate, then you don't need to do them any more. The scrubber (as long as it is growing algae) removes everything that needs removing (just like the ocean). A scrubber, however, does not remove things like medications and poisions.

Ok, has already turn off the skimmer and purely running on scrubber...will feedback and update on my scrubber

on the 15th day...hope to see more growth on the screen...any update on your tank S.M.

[SantaMonica]

I just took some pics of the sps, will post soon.

[SantaMonica]

Update: Other ways to reduce nutrients

If you are using a scrubber, here are some other permanent ways to reduce nutrients (aside from feeding less), starting with the easiest first:

o Remove floss/foam/socks (they trap food and cause it to rot).

o Remove chaeto (also traps food and causes it to rot).

o Remove bio balls (or similar media) slowly (they create excess nitrate, and trap food).

o Remove all sand in your sump (food settles in sand and rots); if anything, use LR.

o Use kalkwasser (lime water) in your top-off (the higher pH causes phosphate to precipitate).

o Change any area of the sump that lets food settle to the bottom; all food should

continue through the sump and back to the display (this is why an open sump is best).

o Reduce sand in your display to 1/4 inch (6mm), or increase it to 4 inches (10cm).

o Using an ultraviolet sterilizer also helps reduce phosphates, but it also kills the live

pods that come from the scrubber; thus it's not recommended for normal use.

[Creetin]

Bro Creetin, do you have any before and after pics of your display ever since using the scrubber?

hi bro i was from day 1 on the scrubber, so its a from day 1 thing i am working on the display part

[SantaMonica]

Update: Screen roughness

If your screen is only growing little spots of algae here and there, it means the screen is not rough enough. What is happening is that algae is trying to attach and grow all over the screen, but the water washes the algae away. Only a few areas have enough roughness for the algae to hang on in the water flow. So, you need to remove the screen and really really really sand/scrape/rough it up. If it's a clear screen (i.e., acrylic), you should not be able to see through it. If it's a plastic canvas screen, it should feel prickly. For highest results (and highest maintenance)... rug canvas works the best, but it only lasts so long before it comes apart. Then you have to make a new one. Whatever you use, make it as rough as possible.

[SantaMonica]

Successes Update:

Macman on the RF site: "To show how affective these scrubbers are I have carried out a little experiment. As you may know I have been running a small 180 litre tank fully stocked with corals and fish, running an external filter and an internal filter. My nitrates have always been between 7 and 12, but I recently had a death of one of my fish and corals which put the nitrate through the roof (and I mean through the roof!) Between 80 and 100 VERY SERIOUS. I decided with my new 7 week old 400 litre tank (which only runs a scrubber) and has nitrates at <1 to carry out a few water exchanges [between the new and old tanks]. I exchanged approximately 80-100 litres in about 5 days, and saw my nitrates go from <1 to nearer 50 in the new tank (A little worrying, but to be expected when considering the concentration of nitrates in the smaller tank). That [nitrate] test was carried out on 12th March. I carried out the same [nitrate] test last night, 25th March, on the scrubber tank and my nitrates are 25. Like I said before this tank has only a scrubber within its system, and live rock. The only thing I did notice [on the new tank] before the water exchange was that I was getting to a period where I was getting a nice light green algae build up on the scrubber, and once I had done the water exchange the algae went back to a dirty black/brown on the scrubber. Only this morning have I started to see a little green again, so it has set me back a few weeks. This system does work and this proofs it. I must admit I was a little concerned when my water went near to 50, but the scrubber came good for me."

Melonbob on the LR site: "Well, just figured I'd update my success story. February 2nd I set up my algae scrubber, and clean one side every friday. I've gone from at least 30-40 nitrates down to less than 5 as of todays test! And lets just say I'm very lazy with water changes.......lol! I'm jazzed!"

Creetin on the SRC site: "day 60 update...! i prolly will stop counting the days but so far i have to say 2 months into the scrubber thingy and i am totally sold on it! its amazing such a great kick algae ###### idea has remained eluded from most of us...so SM, allow me to say that you are truly my idol!!! This has got to be one of the single most important 'discoveries' being revealed...."

[sherman]

My algae scrubber power by 8 LEDS

[sherman]

The LED algae scrubber setup on 8th Mar 2009

[sherman]

The algae growth ad seen today

[sherman]

The growth on the other side of the net

[SantaMonica]

Interesting. Can you show more of the LED panel, and how it sits in relation to the screen?

You are cleaning weekly now, correct?

[SantaMonica]

Excerpt from "Waste Extraction, the Invertibrate Way" by Ron Shimek

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-08/rs/index.php

"The animal poops it out, and from then on the scavengers/detritivores get rid of it." This is, of course, a very concise way of thinking about the elimination of uneaten food from the digestive tract. Unfortunately, it has nothing at all to do with what biologists consider to be waste. Not to put too fine a point on it, but fecal matter is nothing more than uneaten, partially digested and processed food.

"Actual waste materials are something else altogether. Strictly speaking, to a biologist, only a couple types of materials are truly waste materials. These are the byproducts of cellular respiration and protein metabolism, which in most animals, are carbon dioxide and ammonia, respectively.

[scrubbers remove ammonia and carbon dioxide; skimmers do not]

[[V]tEc]

anyone has coraline algea growing on ur scrubber?

[sherman]

Interesting. Can you show more of the LED panel, and how it sits in relation to the screen?

You are cleaning weekly now, correct?

Maybe this is a clearer picture of my earlier version of algae scrubber using T5 lite