Mega Powerful Nitrate and Phosphate Remover - DIY!

[Ah-lim]

Great idea. Gonna create a mini-one for my sump.

Thanks for the wonderful idea !

[tunicate]

Wait a week, and clean the other side, gently. Wait another week and clean the first side again, etc. After a while you'll have to press harder to get the tougher algae off, and after a few months you'll probably need to scrape it with something, and it may eventually get so strong that you'll need a razor blade to scrape it off. But for now, be gentle; you always want some algae to remain on the screen when you are done. NEVER clean it off completely.

Hi SantaMonica,

Sorry, but what's the purpose of removing the algae form the screen? I thought the more algae there is, the faster will nitrate & phosphate be removed.

[jervismun]

What is the different compair to using a UV tube also kill alga?

Why kill the algae if you can make use of them (in a controlled manner)? That's what this invention is all about

[SantaMonica]

gny: Yep algae are like trees

Ah-lim: Cool, will be looking for the pics...

tunicate:

Sorry, but what's the purpose of removing the algae form the screen? I thought the more algae there is, the faster will nitrate & phosphate be removed.

No, not the more there is. Instead, the more GROWTH there is, the more N and P are removed. And growth is best when the algae has been cleanned/scrapped leaving a thin amount remaining on the whole screen. Once the algae gets to be thick at all, three things happen:

1) It slows or stops growing all togther, and thus takes up no more N and P.

2) The outer layers start shading the inner layers, causing the inner layers to die and put N and P back into the water (just like a skimmer cup that is overflowing back into the sump).

3) Pods start getting out of control on the screen, eating the algae, and then flowing back into the tank, thus putting N and P back into the tank.

Harvesting (cleaning or scraping in your sink with running tap water) the algae off the screen (ONE side of the screen per week) removes all the N and P so you can through it away, and kills the pods too.

[gny]

I tend to agree with SantaMonica's latest comment.

My overflow box compartment at the tank corner.

Its 4" square makes has ~8" wide of water overflowing.

This algea grows due to limited sunlight.

Whenever I clean it after ~2mths, its a think layer of algea.

This maybe why my NO3 is always ~20ppm.

So yr great ideal on maintaining a thin layer of algae helps in bringing down NO3 & PO4

[tunicate]

tunicate:

No, not the more there is. Instead, the more GROWTH there is, the more N and P are removed. And growth is best when the algae has been cleanned/scrapped leaving a thin amount remaining on the whole screen. Once the algae gets to be thick at all, three things happen:

1) It slows or stops growing all togther, and thus takes up no more N and P.

2) The outer layers start shading the inner layers, causing the inner layers to die and put N and P back into the water (just like a skimmer cup that is overflowing back into the sump).

3) Pods start getting out of control on the screen, eating the algae, and then flowing back into the tank, thus putting N and P back into the tank.

Harvesting (cleaning or scraping in your sink with running tap water) the algae off the screen (ONE side of the screen per week) removes all the N and P so you can through it away, and kills the pods too.

for the explanation. Think I understand better now. But we need a quick release design somewhere to make it easier to remove the screen for cleaning.

[SantaMonica]

But we need a quick release design somewhere to make it easier to remove the screen for cleaning.

All the waterflow pipe designs lift right out for cleaning:

[johntanjm]

Alright here's my attempt to make one myself. Instead of running 2 lamps on each side of a single piece of screen, I run 2 screens with a single lamp in the middle. Haven't been able to get a 5100K bulb and I'm making do with a 24W 6500K daylight bulb. The system is plumbed entirely by gravity. No quick release design, but it will work for now I hope.

[peacemaker]

Your screens seem very clean. Not seeding it with algae?

[xiaochew]

Alright here's my attempt to make one myself. Instead of running 2 lamps on each side of a single piece of screen, I run 2 screens with a single lamp in the middle. Haven't been able to get a 5100K bulb and I'm making do with a 24W 6500K daylight bulb. The system is plumbed entirely by gravity. No quick release design, but it will work for now I hope.

well done bro. may you share what type plastic screen u r using?

[johntanjm]

XIAOCHEW: go hardware store or maybe artfriend or something, ask them for plastic sheets. its about 1mm thin.

PEACEMAKER: I wiped out algae from the tank using a piece of filter wool. rubbed it into the screens already. I used a piece of sand paper to rub those screens so though u may not be able to see it, there are a lot of scratches on them. According to SantaMonica, tho the seed algae won't stay on, but the spores will ledge themselves somewhere on the scratched up screen.

[peacemaker]

I see... pls keep us updated on your progress. Will you be comparing NO3 & PO4 tests results before and after?

[johntanjm]

See if the algae grows or not. if nothing grows, no point measuring. Looking where to find a 5000K - 5500K bulb. Anyone has any ideas?

[Solo77]

upz for you. Will follow closely. Too bad, cant help you on the bulb. Will help you go look for it.

[SantaMonica]

Don't worry, it will grow well with that bulb

[SantaMonica]

Part 1 of 2:

It's Time For The Santa Monica 120 Acrylic!

Ok it's time to move my screen from the ugly bucket by the sink (with hoses, wires, timers, etc) to under the tank where it can sit on the sump. The idea for this design came from all the readers who tried to install their screens over their sumps. Low profile is important for me, as it is to anyone without a fish room, so I picked 6" as the max height. That would give me room to lift out the screen and pull it out of the stand, with room to spare. And at 6" height, the pvc pipe will take up 1", leaving 5" for the screen. So the screen will be 5 X 24 = 120 sq in. This is good for a decently-stocked 90 like mine, or a lightly stocked 200 with no real nutrient problems. Here is the initial layout that I gave to the acrylic shop:

Wide screens like this are more efficient and powerful (with the same light) than tall narrow screens, but require more flow. My screen will need 24" X 35(gph/in) = 840 gph. However the same 120 sq in screen placed vertically would only need 5" X 35(gph/in) = 175 gph. The vertical placement has a disadvantage in that the water at the top gets filtered by the top of the screen, but then has to travel over the lower parts of the screen. Since it's already been filtered at the top, not much happens on the bottom part of the screen. This problem is eliminated with a horizontal screen since all the water that passes over the 5 inches of screen needs filtering.

Another good use for a low-profile screen like this would be for on-top of tank, when you want the pods to drain directly down into the display. Or, if you don't have a sump, the on-top placement would work great if you put the pump in the display.

The acrylic box came back from the acrylic shop, finished beautifully. They still have the plans, so if anyone wants the same box, call Hastings Plastics at 310-829-3449 and say you want the "aquarium algae filter screen box". The only change would be the "U" cutouts for the pipe: Tell them to make them a little larger round, and a little deeper, since the pipe was hard to push into them (and it stuck out a bit which made the lid not close all the way. ). I did a little grinding, and now it's perfect. The cost was about $100, without shipping. Here's how is arrived:

Unwrapped. Notice the bottom and ends are mirrored acrylic, with the mirror facing inwards:

The lid fits mirror-side down:

The pipe fits snug so that little light will escape. I had to grind the "U" cutouts a little bigger and deeper so the pipe would not block the lid:

The lid fit perfectly after the pipe cutouts were enlarged:

Here are the lights. They come with a combo of 10K and actinic:

www.petstore.com/ps_viewItem-idProduct-CU01124-tab-4.html

I removed the bulbs, and got 6500K and 3000K from here:

www.plantlightinghydroponics.com/ge-t5-ho-fluorescent-lamps-c-73_623.html

I'm going to set it up with 6500K on one side and 3000K on the other. Nobody recommednds 10K for macros, except for one person: The guy at Inland Aquatics that has been growing turf screens for 10 years. So, I'll try 10K soon, but not to start. Maybe you can start with 10K on yours and let us know how it works

[SantaMonica]

Part 2 of 2:

Then I placed the lights on the acrylic and marked off where the the bulbs will be shining through:

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicMar...htPlacement.jpg

Some method has to be used to mount the lights to the sides. I'm using acrylic blocks and acrylic glue:

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicMounts.jpg

The light-mounting is a bit tricky, because the lights need to be removeable, yet be pressed up against the acrylic to minimize light leakage (which would be important for an above-the-tank placement in plain view). The lights are then placed in the mounts:

The overall size ended up being 6.5" high X 6" deep X 24" long:

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDepth.jpg

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicHeight.jpg

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicLength.jpg

Here's a size comparison; the inside of the stand was once filled with filtration devices, and now it's just water:

Taped and ready for spray painting:

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicTaped.jpg

First coat was a metallic silver, so that the inside would reflect more:

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicMetalic.jpg

After painting with black primer, and putting lights on:

End view:

Side view:

Lid off, ready to use:

The long, low-profile pipe and screen:

Lights on:

Setting on sump:

Running, with front light removed to see flow:

So, I rubbed algae from my original bucket into the new screen, then installed the screen and turned it on. I'm starting with the flow and lights on 24 hours, in order to speed up the growth. I'll decide later if I'm going to pulse the flow, and I'll wait for the algae to grow a bit before putting the lights on a timer. Also, there is no fan, because I wanted to make it as simple as possible for folks who wanted to try it themselves. I may try a fan later, but for now let's see how it does without one. Also also, I'm leaving my original bucket running, for safety, but of course this will slow down growth on the new screen.

[SantaMonica]

Results of the day:

jski711 on the RF site says: "Well i ditched my euro reef skimmer and have not noticed any side effects from doing so. i'm still doing water changes on a regular basis but i have increased feedings tremendously and have no adverse side effects from doing so."

keithqueef on RC says: "Update. Well i received my screen from inland (12x12) last friday. and since putting it into my system my trates have gone from red to orange to now dark yellow not quite orange, i lost my color card so i dunno numbers. the screen is dense with it."

[Underwater]

Thanks for sharing this great info, SantaMonica.

Wow, vert tempted to DIY one once i got the time from work. Btw, is there a need to drill holes on the sheet itself or make it rough?

[Ah-lim]

Did anyone mention the flow rate used? Or did I miss out in the article?

Thinking of using a 1200 L/hr pump..

Personally, I have seen great growth using T5 light for my marco-algae tank.

Santamonica: Great pictures and guide !

[peacemaker]

The first and main thing to consider is the flow to the screen. You need about 35 gph (gallons per hour) for every inch of width of the screen. Thus, a 2" wide screen would need 70 gph, and so on. Here is a chart:

Screen Width-----Gallons Per Hour (GPH)

1" 35

2" 70

3" 105

4" 140

5" 175

6" 210

7" 245

8" 280

9" 315

10" 350

11" 385

12" 420

13" 455

14" 490

15" 525

16" 560

17" 595

18" 630

19" 665

20" 700

Note that it does not matter how tall your screen is, just how wide it is. Let's start with an overflow feed: In this case the amount of flow is pre-determined by how much is overflowing; the maximum flow you'll get to the screen will be what's going through your overflow now. This is easy to figure out by counting how many seconds it takes your overflow to fill a one-gallon jug:

60 seconds = 60 gph

30 seconds = 120 gph

15 seconds = 240 gph

10 seconds = 360 gph

8 seconds = 450 gph

5 seconds = 720 gph

Take this gph number that you end up with, and divide by 35, to get the number of inches wide the screen should be. For example, if your overflow was 240 gph, then divide this by 35 to get 6.8 (or just say 7) inches. So your screen should be 7 inches wide. How tall should it be? As tall as can fit into the area you have, and, as tall as your light bulbs will cover. But how tall it is not as important as how wide it is.

Pump feeds: Since with a pump you have control over the flow, start with the size screen you can fit into your space. If the screen will go into your sump, then measure how wide that screen will be. If the screen will go into a bucket, then measure how wide that screen will be. Take the width you get, and multiply by 35 to get the gph you need. For example if you can fit a 10 inch wide screen into your sump or bucket, then multiply 10 by 35 to get 350 gph. Thus your pumps needs to deliver 350 gph to the screen.

Yup! Flowrate mentioned on the first page.

[SantaMonica]

Underwater: You want to use a screen, which of course has holes in it:

This "plastic canvas" one might be easier to get into the slot after cleaning, and the edges will not wear; it also will hold it's shape so that a solid frame is not needed:

http://www.everythingplasticcanvas.com/pc-...sh-12-x-18.aspx

This "rug canvas" is made from fiber so that algae sticks to it the best; but it does not hold its shape when wet, so it will need a solid frame. Also, the edges will wear, so the frame will have to hold the edges down:

http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog.jsp?CAT...PRODID=prd12195

This "tank divider" is mentioned here because you can get them in any LFS, and because they come with clip-on edges that are great frames for any screen. However the screen material itself is very thin and smooth (needs sanding) with not many holes, thus during cleaning it's hard to get algae to stay on the screen:

http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/2/...ank%20divider/0

Overall the rug canvas is the best but takes the most work; the tank divider is the easiest but works least well. I think the plastic canvas is best for most people. Many people ask about using the fiberglass screen from their windows (never use metal!). The main problem of this kind of "soft" screen will be getting it into the slot in the waterfall pipe; it will bend and fold too much. One way around this is to loop it around the waterfall pipe and attach it to itself, instead of slipping it into a slot. In this case you don't need a slot; a series of holes will work. This screen door method is only a last resort though, and will not work that well.

Ah-lim: Thanks. Hopefully you can transfer you great macro growth to a scrubber one day

[SantaMonica]

Ok here is a four-part video I made of the last scraping of the screen of my original bucket before I give it to the LFS to replace the tank-divider screen he's been testing. This video is low-light (with a 5 year old 2-meg camera), so you can't see the algae on the screen, but the purpose is to see the technique of screen cleaning/scraping:

Hi-res:

Part 1: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/Scraping1.mpg

Part 2: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/Scraping2.mpg

Part 2: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/Scraping3.mpg

Part 3: http://www.radio-media.com/fish/Scraping4.mpg

YouTube:

[RockyBoy]

Part 2 of 2:

Then I placed the lights on the acrylic and marked off where the the bulbs will be shining through:

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicMar...htPlacement.jpg

Some method has to be used to mount the lights to the sides. I'm using acrylic blocks and acrylic glue:

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicMounts.jpg

The light-mounting is a bit tricky, because the lights need to be removeable, yet be pressed up against the acrylic to minimize light leakage (which would be important for an above-the-tank placement in plain view). The lights are then placed in the mounts:

The overall size ended up being 6.5" high X 6" deep X 24" long:

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicDepth.jpg

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicHeight.jpg

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicLength.jpg

Here's a size comparison; the inside of the stand was once filled with filtration devices, and now it's just water:

Taped and ready for spray painting:

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicTaped.jpg

First coat was a metallic silver, so that the inside would reflect more:

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/AcrylicMetalic.jpg

After painting with black primer, and putting lights on:

End view:

Side view:

Lid off, ready to use:

The long, low-profile pipe and screen:

Lights on:

Setting on sump:

Running, with front light removed to see flow:

So, I rubbed algae from my original bucket into the new screen, then installed the screen and turned it on. I'm starting with the flow and lights on 24 hours, in order to speed up the growth. I'll decide later if I'm going to pulse the flow, and I'll wait for the algae to grow a bit before putting the lights on a timer. Also, there is no fan, because I wanted to make it as simple as possible for folks who wanted to try it themselves. I may try a fan later, but for now let's see how it does without one. Also also, I'm leaving my original bucket running, for safety, but of course this will slow down growth on the new screen.

Probably the skimmer days are numbered....

[SantaMonica]

The Power Of Light, another example:

Reader "varga" on the RS site just did a cleaning and sent in these pics; here is before the cleaning... it looks like the screen has an even coverage all across it:

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/UserVargaS...RS&RF-3.jpg

But here is after:

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/UserVargaS...RS&RF-4.jpg

Notice that the center area has a tougher, stiffer algae that holds on stronger because it is made up of less water and more fibers (i.e., more N and P, less H20). Now why do you think that the stronger algae formed in the middle of the screen? Here's why:

http://www.radio-media.com/fish/UserVargaS...RS&RF-5.jpg

Yes, because of the lights. The screen may look evenly covered in light when you look at it, but your eyes can't tell the high power areas from the low power areas. Also, when you double the distance of the light, you would think the power of the light would be reduced to one-half; but it's actually reduced to ONE FOURTH of what it was. So when optimizing your design, you want the lights as close to the screen as possilbe, all the way across the screen.