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Blueblue new tank


mecedesfish
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impressive. Bro, for your chiller, you might want to ensure enough clearance behind even though you have vents for ventilation. Just my 2 cents worth opinion.

Tank : 4 X 2 X 2 with low iron front panel and external overflow

Skimmer : BK SM200 with waste collector

Return Pumps : Red Dragon 6m3 and Ehiem 1262

FR : 2 X Deltec 509 & powered by AB2000

Nitrate Filter : Deltec NF 509 and tee off from AB2000

Calcium R'tor : Deltec PF 501 with RM secondary chamber

Kalkwasser R'tor : Deltec KM500

Chiller : Pansonic 1 HP Compressor with 20m titanium Coil

Wave Makers : 4 X Tunze 6055 with 7096 & Vortec MP40w

Controller : GHL Profilux

Lighting : ATI Powermodule 10 or 8 tubes

Water Top-up : Water Top-Up tank powered by Tunze Osmolator

External Monitor : American Pinpoint pH and Temp. Monitor for main tank and GHL Profilux Controller to measure temp, pH, Redox

Ozonizer : Sander C50

UV : Corallife 6x

Algae Scrubbler

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impressive. Bro, for your chiller, you might want to ensure enough clearance behind even though you have vents for ventilation. Just my 2 cents worth opinion.

Think all their setup, chiller is in the cabinet one...

The problem is that the chiller when running keeps sucking in hot air. This will decrease its efficiency and lead to high electricity charges... May cause problems for the chiller itself in the long run.

I think another bro with the same design added some computer fans to suck the hot air out of the cabinet. That should help in reducing temp in the cabinet area.

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As you can see from the post #25 second picture, there is an openning on the lower side cabinet plus back panel 1.5 inch ventilation between the wall, just next to the chiller.

VENTILATION It was my main concern on the whole set up.

Anyway, there are the small open area next to the external over flow, big opennig on top of my hood and more space area on sump cabinet. With all this design in mind, i hope that it wont let the chiller to keep running.

Please advise?

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As you can see from the post #25 second picture, there is an openning on the lower side cabinet plus back panel 1.5 inch ventilation between the wall, just next to the chiller.

VENTILATION It was my main concern on the whole set up.

Anyway, there are the small open area next to the external over flow, big opennig on top of my hood and more space area on sump cabinet. With all this design in mind, i hope that it wont let the chiller to keep running.

Please advise?

i have seen someone with chiller inside cabinet with a big outing at the big. but when i open the cabinet, i can feel the hot air.....not warm but hot....

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i have seen someone with chiller inside cabinet with a big outing at the big. but when i open the cabinet, i can feel the hot air.....not warm but hot....

Agree... Same experience.... And I use te exhaust from the fan to dry my jeans... Just imagine how powerful that is.

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i have seen someone with chiller inside cabinet with a big outing at the big. but when i open the cabinet, i can feel the hot air.....not warm but hot....

My set up so far mixed salt water running for about 2 weeks and Live rock just added yesterday without skimmer. Lighting not set or install. Runing on 27d temp for chiller 1/4.

So far, without lighting on. bless me....not much of hot/warm air.

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Another great setup bro :rolleyes: But I would recomment u to try get the tank maker to drill holes to install a D.C fan to draw hot air out from the sump area. Do not belittle the hot air tat emits out front the chiller. Overheating the chiller would cost the life span of the compresser.

for the lighting part, would u be using MH or T5 ? lighting is also an another area where heat is emmited out greatly. D.C fan would be recommended to draw the hot air away from the light area. Whne u close all the sump cabinet and light doors, it leaves very little room for the hot air t escape. :unsure: So try to work out with ur tank maker while they are still with u now. else later will be messy when u already have fish and coral stocks in ur tank... Pardon my nags :pinch:

Do keep more shots of ur tank coming ya. reminds me of my new tank days

A person, himself can be his own Lawyer, but he can never be his own Judge ........

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golden post from bro fishtalk...hehe....hows life bro.

Bro Mecedesfish, though there is opening but from the picture, it seems tank's sides are sealed. I presume there is a gap behind your tank to let the hot air escapes or it solely depends on ventilation holes......hmm...seldom see ppl do lourve doors....Great that you come here to seek comments from senior reefers. Their inputs are valuable and practical.

Anyway, mind pming me roughly how much you paid for your tank set....less the equipment....just the tank, cabinet, pipe and sump. Thanks.

Tank : 4 X 2 X 2 with low iron front panel and external overflow

Skimmer : BK SM200 with waste collector

Return Pumps : Red Dragon 6m3 and Ehiem 1262

FR : 2 X Deltec 509 & powered by AB2000

Nitrate Filter : Deltec NF 509 and tee off from AB2000

Calcium R'tor : Deltec PF 501 with RM secondary chamber

Kalkwasser R'tor : Deltec KM500

Chiller : Pansonic 1 HP Compressor with 20m titanium Coil

Wave Makers : 4 X Tunze 6055 with 7096 & Vortec MP40w

Controller : GHL Profilux

Lighting : ATI Powermodule 10 or 8 tubes

Water Top-up : Water Top-Up tank powered by Tunze Osmolator

External Monitor : American Pinpoint pH and Temp. Monitor for main tank and GHL Profilux Controller to measure temp, pH, Redox

Ozonizer : Sander C50

UV : Corallife 6x

Algae Scrubbler

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Another great setup bro :rolleyes: But I would recomment u to try get the tank maker to drill holes to install a D.C fan to draw hot air out from the sump area. Do not belittle the hot air tat emits out front the chiller. Overheating the chiller would cost the life span of the compresser.

for the lighting part, would u be using MH or T5 ? lighting is also an another area where heat is emmited out greatly. D.C fan would be recommended to draw the hot air away from the light area. Whne u close all the sump cabinet and light doors, it leaves very little room for the hot air t escape. :unsure: So try to work out with ur tank maker while they are still with u now. else later will be messy when u already have fish and coral stocks in ur tank... Pardon my nags :pinch:

Do keep more shots of ur tank coming ya. reminds me of my new tank days

Hi Fishtalk1517,

it is a expensive hobby and at this timing to spent this amount, my CO might not like it. Thank you for your recommendation. I will take some study on it.

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Hi Fishtalk1517,

it is a expensive hobby and at this timing to spent this amount, my CO might not like it. Thank you for your recommendation. I will take some study on it.

Fans are actually very cheap.... Since U already bought the tank form them. I am sure they can help add in those big A/C fans. One for the lighting part, one for the chiller part. The fans at most $20+ each. Workmanship dunno how much they want to charge though.

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bro, most tank makers will often say 'no need lah' or give u new ideas..

but actually from my experince in reefing.. i notice that input from forumers are actually very valid. and most are from all our experince.

[ ]

[ ]

Reef Reefing Reefed

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Fans are actually very cheap.... Since U already bought the tank form them. I am sure they can help add in those big A/C fans. One for the lighting part, one for the chiller part. The fans at most $20+ each. Workmanship dunno how much they want to charge though.

i had 2 used DC fan at home . this was left during my time in planted tank. I might take it out to use if necessary.

I had also change my skimmer to the new cone design skimmer. (AM)

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i had 2 used DC fan at home . this was left during my time in planted tank. I might take it out to use if necessary.

I had also change my skimmer to the new cone design skimmer. (AM)

Let us know the effectiveness of the skimmer k.....Do some review of sorts... Interested to see how it works.

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Let us know the effectiveness of the skimmer k.....Do some review of sorts... Interested to see how it works.

[/quote

So far no skimmer is being install. Guess`that they did not have the stock. Only FR,chiller and LR running.

Steve say abt 1.5 week later.

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Another great set up...nice tank bro...i'm also agree about the effectiveness of fan for cooling bro..

just my 1 cents. :upsidedown:

Display 3ft x 1.5ft x 2ft Custom Tank with 52 kg of Live Rock.

Sump 2ft x 1ft x 1.5ft Custom Tank with 5kg of Live Rock,6kg of Bio Home and Chaeto.

2 x 39w T5 HO Aquaz True Actinic.

2 x 39w T5 HO Aquaz Blue Plus.

1 x Resun 650 Chiller.

1 x Weipro 2012 Protein Skimmer.

1 x DIY Fluidize Reactor with Rowaphos.

2 x Hailea 5000L/hr Return Pump.

1 x SunSun Flow Pump.

2 x Seio 820 Flow Pump.

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if you want to test your cycling process....yr nitrate, nitrite, ammonia, etc should spike initially and later drop to zero....other parameters are meant to ensure your water is ok for corals, etc...

Tank : 4 X 2 X 2 with low iron front panel and external overflow

Skimmer : BK SM200 with waste collector

Return Pumps : Red Dragon 6m3 and Ehiem 1262

FR : 2 X Deltec 509 & powered by AB2000

Nitrate Filter : Deltec NF 509 and tee off from AB2000

Calcium R'tor : Deltec PF 501 with RM secondary chamber

Kalkwasser R'tor : Deltec KM500

Chiller : Pansonic 1 HP Compressor with 20m titanium Coil

Wave Makers : 4 X Tunze 6055 with 7096 & Vortec MP40w

Controller : GHL Profilux

Lighting : ATI Powermodule 10 or 8 tubes

Water Top-up : Water Top-Up tank powered by Tunze Osmolator

External Monitor : American Pinpoint pH and Temp. Monitor for main tank and GHL Profilux Controller to measure temp, pH, Redox

Ozonizer : Sander C50

UV : Corallife 6x

Algae Scrubbler

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yea man, and its on aquabee pump right?

Actually chiller no need to on at this stage unless its super hot.

Can set at 28 or even 29C for the bacteria to multiply. Once parameters are stable, then take 1 week or 2 to lower the temp.

What I did was 29 then 28.5 over 3 days then 28 over another 3 days. Currently keeping my mixed tank (SPS/LPS) of 2 years at 28C. Not going for 27C to cut electricity bill... Very siong sia...

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Actually chiller no need to on at this stage unless its super hot.

Can set at 28 or even 29C for the bacteria to multiply. Once parameters are stable, then take 1 week or 2 to lower the temp.

What I did was 29 then 28.5 over 3 days then 28 over another 3 days. Currently keeping my mixed tank (SPS/LPS) of 2 years at 28C. Not going for 27C to cut electricity bill... Very siong sia...

Upoon the 1st set up, it was set at 27 but after they left, I set it to 27.5.

But when they come over, they adjusted to 27 again.

Upoon calling them, their advise was 27 again cause it does not make much diff...........Anyway FYI, i am facing the west sun in the afternoon.

LOL

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bro, if you are cycling your tank, you dont have to turn to 27. As mentioned by bro Piero, 28 degree is still possible. If you are keeping fishes and non demanding corals, you may go up to 29. Anyway, this is personal experience. Hence, some ppl opinion may differs. It is really up to you.

As mentioned, your unit is facing west sun, hence i think your water will heat up faster. However, the chiller will just kicks in more often during that period. Maybe it is a good time to test whether your chiller can really support your tank by setting it to say 26 and see how long it takes to cool down and how fast it takes for the chiller to kick in again.

Upoon the 1st set up, it was set at 27 but after they left, I set it to 27.5.

But when they come over, they adjusted to 27 again.

Upoon calling them, their advise was 27 again cause it does not make much diff...........Anyway FYI, i am facing the west sun in the afternoon.

LOL

Tank : 4 X 2 X 2 with low iron front panel and external overflow

Skimmer : BK SM200 with waste collector

Return Pumps : Red Dragon 6m3 and Ehiem 1262

FR : 2 X Deltec 509 & powered by AB2000

Nitrate Filter : Deltec NF 509 and tee off from AB2000

Calcium R'tor : Deltec PF 501 with RM secondary chamber

Kalkwasser R'tor : Deltec KM500

Chiller : Pansonic 1 HP Compressor with 20m titanium Coil

Wave Makers : 4 X Tunze 6055 with 7096 & Vortec MP40w

Controller : GHL Profilux

Lighting : ATI Powermodule 10 or 8 tubes

Water Top-up : Water Top-Up tank powered by Tunze Osmolator

External Monitor : American Pinpoint pH and Temp. Monitor for main tank and GHL Profilux Controller to measure temp, pH, Redox

Ozonizer : Sander C50

UV : Corallife 6x

Algae Scrubbler

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Actually east or west sun no diff right? The job of the chiller is to mantain the water temp at the preset value.

27 and 28 does make some diff... when temp differential between atmopshere and tank Vs the rate at which the chiller needs to work is not linear. The greater the difference between tank and atmospheric temp, the harder your chiller has to work.

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Actually east or west sun no diff right? The job of the chiller is to mantain the water temp at the preset value.

27 and 28 does make some diff... when temp differential between atmopshere and tank Vs the rate at which the chiller needs to work is not linear. The greater the difference between tank and atmospheric temp, the harder your chiller has to work.

My place is warm when the sun ray enter it in the afternoon. I presume that the tank temperature will also naturely rise.

I learn something from your last sentance.

Thanls

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the equipment already show who is the tank maker.

AM!!! :P

1ft cube with IOS [the low tech tank]

1. JBJ C-breeze to keep temp hovering around 27-28'C

2. LED clip on - 120 bulbs

-skimmer-less-

My 3 humble equipments that keeps my tank running... [DRIED OUT]

1. The RSM itself of course 2.My NEW Deltec MCE-300 Skimmer 3. My trusty Arctica Chiller

Tank parameters:

Temperature maintained at 25.3'C to 24.7'C

No3: 10ppm(b4 the use of the deltec skimmer)

No3: 5ppm (after use of the skimmer)

Others? too lazy to measure...LOL

Camera- EOS 50D

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