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Crystal Pro Resin cartridge


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Bro,

Places like AM sells entire replacement cartridge.

Yes, you are correct. To be able to refill refresh resin would be more effective and efficient, as there is resin grade flexibility.

Not restricted to AM type. :thanks:

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Yes, you are correct. To be able to refill refresh resin would be more effective and efficient, as there is resin grade flexibility.

Not restricted to AM type. :thanks:

In that case, you may have to DIY a mod for your Resin chamber because the Crystal Pro cartridge is sealed tight. There's no way to extract the used resin unless the cartridge is broken open.

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Isn't it harder to find just resins alone.. not forgetting the mention of modding the cartridge so you can change whats inside. And then you got to make sure the resins do not flow out because they are really tiny particles.

Resin grade flexibility you can also get from those crystal pro cartridges.. they have 2 kinds. Then again if it fits, you can get other brands with different micron type.

Why do we use "My 2 cents worth" when 1 cents are not legal tender in Singapore anymore? Shouldn't it be 5 cents worth?

"Its easier to blame the 'mantis' or crabs in the tank for missing & dead livestocks.."

http://arcanehacker.blogspot.com/

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Yes, agree AM has 2 grade of resins, which may exhaust sooner than expected. I would like to purchase a spare, refill with

something IMO better grade resins.

Appreciate any kind soul or anyone who has refill this type of cartridge will share their experience.

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I ever bought a canister refill from Jireh that can be opened. But they stopped selling it already. I've used refill media from LFS like C328

Picture004.jpg

but can't tell how's the result because did not have an TDS meter at that time. Curious to know what media you'll be using and where to get it from.

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I ever bought a canister refill from Jireh that can be opened. But they stopped selling it already. I've used refill media from LFS like C328

Picture004.jpg

but can't tell how's the result because did not have an TDS meter at that time. Curious to know what media you'll be using and where to get it from.

Your reply is cool. I do not have the resin in hand, but the friend who holds the resin claim it is of better grade.

Will advise you later. :thanks:

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Hi rcheng,

I modified the last canister chamber in my Crystal Pro a la May&Bruce's method for DI resin. See May&Bruce's attached pdf documentation in the link below.

http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=42927

I brought the whole canister to a plumbing shop somewhere in Ubi industrial estate. The owner was kind enough to entertain my small request.

He found a PVC pipe that would almost fit & sawed off a 1 foot section for me for a token $2. :bow:

All I had to do when I got home is to file down the rough edges on both ends. After which, I lighted a candle to heat up the inner surface of one end to expand it a little. Then quickly attached it to the canister cap while it's still expanded. (The length of the PVC pipe has to be short enough so that water can flow out at the bottom of the canister.

THAT'S IT! :lol:

My TDS reading is 0ppm.

Good luck

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Hi Tunicate,

There was cool.

I noticed that there are 2 end caps, one on each end of the 1 foot PVC pipe. Mind telling me the outer diameter of the end caps and 1 foot PVC pipe. Also the bottom end cap seems to be flow through type. If I am not wrong it should be seal so that water only flow into the drilled holes at bottom of pipe and up into the filter manifold.

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I did not bother with the end caps. Just finding a PVC pipe that would fit over the outlet on the canister cap was complex enough for me. All I'm aiming for is to get the carbon filtered water (in the 2nd canister) to the bottom of the 3rd canister so that it can slowly flow thru' the DI resin to reach the final outlet.

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New to refilling fresh resin into Crystal Pro Resin Cartridge. :fear:

Solution needed, please. :thanks:

Can be done. soak the glued end into hot boiling water for 5-10 minutes.Pry open the cap slowly with a knive or something flat.

If still too stiff,soak longer in ht water.Dont force as it will crack.I done it before.

After refill,no need to glue...just use scotch tape to hold the cap.

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Just something to share. The glue that is used to seal the cap is not the shock proof type of glue. A few light knock on the cap and you can easily remove the cap and fill whatever you want. No need hot water. Thats what i did to my cartridge.

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Thank you guys. It may sound funny. Drawing from your experience;

After removing cap fill with resin, re-install cartridge. Does the cap and cartridge still need some form of glue to seal. Or cap it, re-install and the filter housing and all the fixtures in the would be enough to take care of the seal.

Another stupid question, usually how long does the standard AM resin last.

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atos..i am not sure about how many litres mixed bed will make - it depends upon the quality/purity of water going in and the specs of the resin, from the manufacturer. I have used a sedidment filter and a granular activated carbon (GAC) filter to purify the water first. Apparently chlorine in the water will significantly reduce the life of DI resin, hence the use of a GAC filter before the resin, to remove the chlorine (and other nasties too).

I will monitor my DI useage with a TDS and report back on the number of litres.

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  • 1 month later...

Rcheng, where to find DI resin? Just realised that DI resin is a mix of Cation and Anion resin http://www.airwaterice.com/category/z.2/. The media I was using (shown in my earlier post in this thread) is only the cation resin. If can't find any local supplier I may have to order from this company in USA.

The previous refillable cartridge I bought was made my Air, Water & Ice, Inc.

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