Nitrate remover...

[MadScientist]

i do not recommend that setting. like victor007 said, hydrogen sulphide might be produced. seems like the flow rate can be near 0 if very fine media is used. dead zones will be created especially at the base of the container.

i do propose u to attach a pump with a T connector to the pail. the bottom of the container you can attach a flow restrictor; i do like to use IV sets, those used in hospitals. u want u can get from me at a very cheap price; ur transportation cost, anyway, this device is good as i can set it to drop per time. the purpose of the T connector is to allow water to be channeled into the container and any overflow would be channeled out by the other outlet of the connector. u do not need a dedicated pump, just use wadever pump u r alreadi using.

personally i m using the tofu packet with the iv drip as the tofu packet provides a funnel bottom, helping to minimise the creation of dead zones.

just my 2 cents worth.

[Ah-lim]

For those who want to know the danger of DSB, including hydrogen sulphide, read.

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/dsbdangers.htm

check out the email, Don't Fear The Sand (Unfounded DSB Fears?)......

[RockyBoy]

That's the method I am doing now. I have tried AZ NO3 too with similar effect as using sugar method

BTW, this is a picture of the dsb I have in mind..... I wonder anyone tried it before...

I've tried using DSB in my sump with (I think) success in my previous 2feet tank. Nitrates 0 all the time without any cheato or any micro algae at all. Yet, I've feed my fishes like crazy. My DSB is in the middle and the water flow across is like 2000l/hr. Not so good in terms of DSB slow flow but works for me. Lots of bubbles in the sand after few months. I use grade 0 sand and put some worms to churn the sand.

dsb.bmp

[RockyBoy]

i do not recommend that setting. like victor007 said, hydrogen sulphide might be produced. seems like the flow rate can be near 0 if very fine media is used. dead zones will be created especially at the base of the container.

i do propose u to attach a pump with a T connector to the pail. the bottom of the container you can attach a flow restrictor; i do like to use IV sets, those used in hospitals. u want u can get from me at a very cheap price; ur transportation cost, anyway, this device is good as i can set it to drop per time. the purpose of the T connector is to allow water to be channeled into the container and any overflow would be channeled out by the other outlet of the connector. u do not need a dedicated pump, just use wadever pump u r alreadi using.

personally i m using the tofu packet with the iv drip as the tofu packet provides a funnel bottom, helping to minimise the creation of dead zones.

just my 2 cents worth.

With DSB setup, hydrogen sulphide is the by-product. This is the danger of the DSB system. As for me, I put the GAC to absorb H2S. However the amount of H2S is not huge enough to kill off the LS in the tank as not much nitrates available after a while. Therefore, it is wise to invest in good skimmers in the first place.

[MadScientist]

hi rockyboy,

i disagree. not all dsb setup produces hydrogen sulphide. a "well aerated" deareated area willl limit the hydrogen sulphide process.

[Victor007]

that will depends on how well-aerated it is...too thick of ur dsb will be a problem even if it is "well-aerated"..

becos that "well-aerated" is at the top layer of your dsb, how far below it can reach is always the problem.

ozonizer or GAC can help with this H2S problem.

[arcanehacker]

that will depends on how well-aerated it is...too thick of ur dsb will be a problem even if it is "well-aerated"..

becos that "well-aerated" is at the top layer of your dsb, how far below it can reach is always the problem.

ozonizer or GAC can help with this H2S problem.

Interesting theory on ozonizer helping on the hydrogen sulphide part. Care to explain?

[Victor007]

H2S. as we know that one way to neutralize it is to provide enough aeration.

the reason been so is that Oxygen will react with H2S to another harmless or less harmless stage.

Ozonizer produce O3 which is a higher reactive form of oxygen compare to O2.

as we are familar with air ozonizer, it eliminates odor in the air and alot of things due to it's reactive nature.

Using the same principle, it will react even more readily with H2S to eliminate that "rotting egg" smell and toxin.

But to get it working at optimum level, if using dsb bucket plan, ozonizer can run at the output of the bucket to eliminate stray bacteria and H2S.

did that for my own denitrator for sometime.

H2S in large quantity will be a big problem even if have GAC or ozonizer becos the rate of reaction no matter how fast will be unable to overcome the production rate(if too high).

more information can read up in reefcentral cos that's where i read it up abt too.

cheers.