Jump to content

Resun cl280


marble
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • SRC Member

Hi all,

jzt got a resun cl280

install it only yest nite for my RSM 2ft 130Lit tank.

It runs when there is a 1 degree different in temp(At 1st tot its faulty as last time when i use cl650 for my 3ft tank,it only runs when there is a 2 degree diff in temp.

So i ask e shop to ck with e agent,e agent say for tis type of small chiller for nano,they set e default as 1 degree diff for kick in.

Personally i prefer it to b 2 degree diff then kick in as resun chiller dun show diff in 0.1 degree diff one.Only whole no type of temp reading..So to me,e kick in time is beri e freq lor..

It takes abt 40min to chill fm 28-26degree.

HOwever aft tat,i notice tat it will start to kick in every 5min later then rest abt 5 to 10min to maintain e 1 degree diff in temp. Tat is to say 1hr it kick in for abt 12times or more...Tis way it will consume more energy rite???Still monitoring e progress...

If tis goes on,think i will ned to buy a external temp equip to control it liao..am i rite to say so???tk

Anybody can share their review on tis chiller??tks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member
Hi all,

jzt got a resun cl280

install it only yest nite for my RSM 2ft 130Lit tank.

It runs when there is a 1 degree different in temp(At 1st tot its faulty as last time when i use cl650 for my 3ft tank,it only runs when there is a 2 degree diff in temp.

So i ask e shop to ck with e agent,e agent say for tis type of small chiller for nano,they set e default as 1 degree diff for kick in.

Personally i prefer it to b 2 degree diff then kick in as resun chiller dun show diff in 0.1 degree diff one.Only whole no type of temp reading..So to me,e kick in time is beri e freq lor..

It takes abt 40min to chill fm 28-26degree.

HOwever aft tat,i notice tat it will start to kick in every 5min later then rest abt 5 to 10min to maintain e 1 degree diff in temp. Tat is to say 1hr it kick in for abt 12times or more...Tis way it will consume more energy rite???Still monitoring e progress...

If tis goes on,think i will ned to buy a external temp equip to control it liao..am i rite to say so???tk

Anybody can share their review on tis chiller??tks

Got some bro told me tat their cl280 runs when there is a 2 degree diff not 1 degree diff leh....

Anybody can clarify tis??? Was told by e agent they set e default as 1 degree diff... <_<

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member
Hi all,

jzt got a resun cl280

install it only yest nite for my RSM 2ft 130Lit tank.

It runs when there is a 1 degree different in temp(At 1st tot its faulty as last time when i use cl650 for my 3ft tank,it only runs when there is a 2 degree diff in temp.

So i ask e shop to ck with e agent,e agent say for tis type of small chiller for nano,they set e default as 1 degree diff for kick in.

Personally i prefer it to b 2 degree diff then kick in as resun chiller dun show diff in 0.1 degree diff one.Only whole no type of temp reading..So to me,e kick in time is beri e freq lor..

It takes abt 40min to chill fm 28-26degree.

HOwever aft tat,i notice tat it will start to kick in every 5min later then rest abt 5 to 10min to maintain e 1 degree diff in temp. Tat is to say 1hr it kick in for abt 12times or more...Tis way it will consume more energy rite???Still monitoring e progress...

If tis goes on,think i will ned to buy a external temp equip to control it liao..am i rite to say so???tk

Anybody can share their review on tis chiller??tks

You say it kicks in every 5-10 mins and runs for 5 mins. So at maximum it will kick in for 6 times in 1 hour, running for 5 mins each times. How do you calculate 12 times or more?

Maximum Electric consumption

For electricity, your chiller uses about 250Watts.

One hour - 6 times x 5 mins = 1/2 hour running time

One day - 1/2 hour x 24 hours = 12 hours running time

One month - 12 hours x 30 days = 360 hours running time.

Total electric = 360 hours x 250 watts = 90kWh

Current rate - $0.2052 per kWh

Electric bill for chiller in a month = $18.468

Minimum Electric consumption

One hour - 4 times x 5 mins = 1/3 hour runnning time

One month - 240 hours running time

Total electric = 240 x 250 watts = 60kWh

Electric bill for chiller in a month = $12.312

Take this amount as consideration, because fishes and additives cost much more than this. Your air-con uses 1000Watts to 2000watts of electricity.

An external controller cost about $200. If it helps you save half the electricity ($9 in a month). You would need 22 months to cover the cost. So savings come in at $9 a months after 22 months. If your chiller dies within 22 months, you would be making a loss.

post-14-1192862000.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

You say it kicks in every 5-10 mins and runs for 5 mins. So at maximum it will kick in for 6 times in 1 hour, running for 5 mins each times. How do you calculate 12 times or more?

Maximum Electric consumption

For electricity, your chiller uses about 250Watts.

One hour - 6 times x 5 mins = 1/2 hour running time

One day - 1/2 hour x 24 hours = 12 hours running time

One month - 12 hours x 30 days = 360 hours running time.

Total electric = 360 hours x 250 watts = 90kWh

Current rate - $0.2052 per kWh

Electric bill for chiller in a month = $18.468

Minimum Electric consumption

One hour - 4 times x 5 mins = 1/3 hour runnning time

One month - 240 hours running time

Total electric = 240 x 250 watts = 60kWh

Electric bill for chiller in a month = $12.312

Take this amount as consideration, because fishes and additives cost much more than this. Your air-con uses 1000Watts to 2000watts of electricity.

An external controller cost about $200. If it helps you save half the electricity ($9 in a month). You would need 22 months to cover the cost. So savings come in at $9 a months after 22 months. If your chiller dies within 22 months, you would be making a loss.

bro,

u r reali gd in # man...keke...tks alot for e explaination :bow:

e LFS guy taught me to switch e inlet to outlet flow n outlet to inlet flow....

Tis way it reali delay e kick in time by maybe less one time..He told me its bec e dun noe wat is nearer to either one side of the inlet or outlet area...So by changin e flow,it will delay e kick in time by awhile more...keke

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

You say it kicks in every 5-10 mins and runs for 5 mins. So at maximum it will kick in for 6 times in 1 hour, running for 5 mins each times. How do you calculate 12 times or more?

Maximum Electric consumption

For electricity, your chiller uses about 250Watts.

One hour - 6 times x 5 mins = 1/2 hour running time

One day - 1/2 hour x 24 hours = 12 hours running time

One month - 12 hours x 30 days = 360 hours running time.

Total electric = 360 hours x 250 watts = 90kWh

Current rate - $0.2052 per kWh

Electric bill for chiller in a month = $18.468

Minimum Electric consumption

One hour - 4 times x 5 mins = 1/3 hour runnning time

One month - 240 hours running time

Total electric = 240 x 250 watts = 60kWh

Electric bill for chiller in a month = $12.312

Take this amount as consideration, because fishes and additives cost much more than this. Your air-con uses 1000Watts to 2000watts of electricity.

An external controller cost about $200. If it helps you save half the electricity ($9 in a month). You would need 22 months to cover the cost. So savings come in at $9 a months after 22 months. If your chiller dies within 22 months, you would be making a loss.

This formula is just considered power factor:1.0 which means 100% efficiency.

No electrical items in the world have 100% efficiency. Furthermore it didnt add-in surge current which takes in more electricity when compressor starts.

External controller needs $200 if you ask someone to to do. You dont need that figure and you only need to add only one termostat to change everything. Why will we want to change the whole controller when it didnt damage?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

This formula is just considered power factor:1.0 which means 100% efficiency.

No electrical items in the world have 100% efficiency. Furthermore it didnt add-in surge current which takes in more electricity when compressor starts.

External controller needs $200 if you ask someone to to do. You dont need that figure and you only need to add only one termostat to change everything. Why will we want to change the whole controller when it didnt damage?

Thanks for pointing that out. Feel free to double or add 50% to the cost for surge and loses which i don't have figures.

reeftask, how much did you pay to add in that thermostat? How did you do it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • SRC Member

Thanks for pointing that out. Feel free to double or add 50% to the cost for surge and loses which i don't have figures.

reeftask, how much did you pay to add in that thermostat? How did you do it?

sorry, maybe too busy that day to answer your question. Its not nice to tell the price on forum because we have sponsors to protect here. I had described in another post to Kareen how I did it. For resun chiller, its so easy, plug and play but I cant comment on other brands as they may have different situations.

All I can say its worth to install it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
  • SRC Member

From many forum posts, Chiller kicking in frequently could be a result of too low flow rate. From Resun website, Minimum and maximum flow rate of CL-280 is 500 and 1000 liters per hr.

Found this interesting article from another aquarist on how he DIYed external temperature probe to reduce the frequency of the chiller kicking in.

Hope this helps.

post-1182-0-60431600-1322062247_thumb.jppost-2241-0-43391700-1354511230.png

"Be formless... shapeless, like water. If you put water into a cup, it becomes the cup. You put water into a bottle; it becomes the bottle. You put it into a teapot; it becomes the teapot. Water can flow, or it can crash. Be water, my friend..." - Lei Siu Lung (Bruce Lee)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
  • SRC Member

He had settled the problem in Nov 2007 after buying the sensor. A follow-up, he was happy that his problem is solved.

This article blogger guy is a freshwater hobbyist. The sensor probe is made of metal and poor insulated. It will rust easily and damaged within few months. When it start to corrode in saltwater and all your fishes/corals will immigrate to heaven/hell, LOL.

Freshwater fishes will withstand metals corrosion better but not marine fishes.

By the way, please let this thread close as what it suppose to be.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share



×
×
  • Create New...