cl650 For 5ft ?

[williammuk]

In your opinion, worst case of 1 hr work and 1 hr rest is not good? Hm... I thought it was okay.... As for yours, I think it is a bit lax 'cos 20/120 min equal 17% only.... Imagine u pay someone to work only 17% of time... It's like overpaying that guy.

PS: Why I say is okay is b'cos the worst case last only 6 hours for my case. This roughly translate to kick in 3 times at most... when compare to 1 or 2 times of yours... See my point here?

Yah, it's a bit like overpaying that guy.

But hor, that guy works smart and works fast leh. So I've no qualms about letting him rest longer -- as long as he does the job. Furthermore, since he has adequate rest, his health seems better and I think he won't be asking for any medical leave anytime soon. By the way, when he rest, he sleeps like a log and doesn't take up additional resources (eg. computer, coffee or lights).

Really sorry, I read your PS a few times but still don't quite get your meaning. Could you kindly elaborate, please?

[kareen]

Yah, it's a bit like overpaying that guy.

But hor, that guy works smart and works fast leh. So I've no qualms about letting him rest longer -- as long as he does the job. Furthermore, since he has adequate rest, his health seems better and I think he won't be asking for any medical leave anytime soon. By the way, when he rest, he sleeps like a log and doesn't take up additional resources (eg. computer, coffee or lights).

Really sorry, I read your PS a few times but still don't quite get your meaning. Could you kindly elaborate, please?

Well, my MH is turned on for 6 hours daily and when this happen, I notice that the chiller will have to kick in an hour and rest an hour and kick in an hour, etc.

I would think that from your quote of 20 min ON / 120 min OFF is your worst case and thereby this roughly equal to about 1 or 2 times of kick in rate if MH for 6 hours duration.

Therefore is the differences a lot? That's why I am confident it should be less than $5/mth electric bill if the kick in surge is so demanding (which I never measure but guess this thru reasoning) ....

[reeftask]

If you refer to internet, some figures are based on colder environment. This is Singapore, a hot country. The chiller companies are set-up to make money so...

be careful when you see their specifications.

It also depends on your room temp, bla bla,...

refer to other sites in this forum. many had sized wrongly and ended up to buy again.

[kareen]

If you refer to internet, some figures are based on colder environment. This is Singapore, a hot country. The chiller companies are set-up to make money so...

be careful when you see their specifications.

It also depends on your room temp, bla bla,...

refer to other sites in this forum. many had sized wrongly and ended up to buy again.

Could u describe the warning a little bit more? I don't understand... the calculation here is based on ambient/desired temperature and individual loads.... Or is it something in this threads that does not make sense to you? Do not get me wrong, I just wana know is there any misconception in my understanding... only thru' questions and answers that deepen the understanding.

Oh ya, I will like to bring out a point about the chiller temperature. The reason why the calculation stop at about 27 degree is that I see no further benefits to it anymore... The greater the differences between ambient and desired tank temperature, the greater the shock will be when there is a breakout. U think it is rare? Or u have some backup measures? Wouldn't it be simpler just to make the differences lesser to cushion for such instances?

[williammuk]

Well, my MH is turned on for 6 hours daily and when this happen, I notice that the chiller will have to kick in an hour and rest an hour and kick in an hour, etc.

I would think that from your quote of 20 min ON / 120 min OFF is your worst case and thereby this roughly equal to about 1 or 2 times of kick in rate if MH for 6 hours duration.

Therefore is the differences a lot? That's why I am confident it should be less than $5/mth electric bill if the kick in surge is so demanding (which I never measure but guess this thru reasoning) ....

Good morning kareen,

Our scenarios are a bit different.

My photo period is as follows:

- 2xT5 (2x54W) from 6am until 11pm

- 2xT5 (2x54W) from 8am until 9pm

- 2xMH (2x250W) from 10am until 8pm.

I've also consulted my logs which were recorded during the initial setup. Please allow me to correct myself regarding my chiller's performance. Sorry.

During the hottest period when all lights are on, the chiller takes between 22 to 25 minutes to drop the temperature 1 deg C (from 26.5 to 25.5 deg C). Then it stops for around 85 to 90 minutes.

During the other cooler periods when less lights are on or when they are off, the chiller takes between 18 to 20 minutes to achieve the same result. Then it stops for around 200 to 250 minutes.

If I estimate it correctly, I think my worker sleeps most of the time and only wakes up occasionally putting in around 3.5 to 4.0 hours of work within a 24-hour period. What a good life!

OK, now let's move on to the calculation for electricity consumption.

For simplicity, we shall not factor in the surge because I also don't know what is the impact of it. All I know (from what I hear) is that the more frequent it kicks in, the more stress it has on the components which might contribute to it failing sooner. OK, put the surge impact aside.

Assuming the worst case scenario where my worker slogs for 4.0 hours, the calculation (the formula I copied from another post) is as follows:

3.2amps x 230volts x 4.0hours x 30days x 0.0002115 = $18.68 per month

3.2amps is the current consumption when my chiller is running. Different chiller models have different numbers.

230volts is our electrical supply.

I think the last constant is the cost of electricity. The number above is the old value before the recent announcement for increase in tariffs. I don't know that is the new number now. Anybody can help?

If you would like to get a comparison, perhaps you could put in the numbers and see how much you're paying for your chiller's running cost per month. By the way, if your chiller is not the dip-in coil type, then you would also need to factor in the electricity used to keep the pump running 24x7.

Mine is a dip-in coil type, so I don't need to count that part.

Cheers and have a nice day ahead.

[kareen]

Hi!

I have heard that u kept logs... but I'm still "WOW!" I admit I am not that detail... BUT I do know that all in all my tank cost me roughly below $30 monthly in bill on average..... I have do a cal on the figures on paper and compare to before and after situation to have a certain level of confident.... but don't tell me to list down the details... I think more of my hair will grow white....heehehehe

It's true that your situation is different when you have the dip-in coil (Aha! starmax user I believe) When pump run 24/7, ones has to be extremely wary about the running cost. I overcome it thru' having the chiller and return tied together.... How's that?

Now, I can see that your situation is very much different... Hence, cannot compare.

[kareen]

The only bad things I see is the initial outlay to fork out, a alien looking coil in sump and possibly an ugly spot that host that huge guy (bigger than convention I mean) .... Other than that I think yours beats in terms of noises level, reliability (most of the time resting) and cost in a very, very, very long term.

[williammuk]

The only bad things I see is the initial outlay to fork out, a alien looking coil in sump and possibly an ugly spot that host that huge guy (bigger than convention I mean) .... Other than that I think yours beats in terms of noises level, reliability (most of the time resting) and cost in a very, very, very long term.

White hair? :lol: At least not green hair algae.

Hey, I fully agreed with you 1000% on the blackviper-looking coil in my sump. It is taking up so much of my precious sump space Now I have so little space to dump my "temporary" corals/rocks, etc. It also makes changing water so much more difficult. I like to siphon out the detritus from the sump bottom. But now this black snake is blocking the way.

But no choice, my old chiller (after about 2+years) was getting to be more and more inefficient. Takes more than an hour to drop 1 deg C and only rest less than an hour before it kicks in again.

Come to think of it, I think the insulation in the internal heat exchanger is no good. So even after compressor stops, the heat from the compressor gets transferred to the heat exchanger and indirectly heats up the water that is still flowing through it. This is just my guess. Otherwise, the temperature water shouldn't rise so fast.

So I decided to just invest in the StarMEX after seeing the demo of a similar dip-in coil during Aquarama.

As for cost recovery, I'm hoping to break even in about 3 years. Kinda long but I'm also hoping that these commercial-grade compressors will give me many years of trouble-free operation. I've had two aquarium chillers in the past and both started giving problems after a couple of years.

OK, let us not compare anymore. Our situations are different. We're here to share and to learn from each other's experiences.

Chat later. Gotta get back to work liao.

[kareen]

It's true that chiller will get choke over time in our reef tank... especially a well establish one with tons of little critters. I suspect the inefficiency may be due to this and hence I will give it a flush with flesh water and vingear for a week or two and see how things progress from there...

[kareen]

A reduction in time may not spell saving in electricity… Can ones see that unless there is a 20min reduction in time for the 0.3hp chiller cooling the same tank, it is actually consuming more energy? (See the pic, I have boxed it)

A chiller using 1hour cooling 1 degree in one tank may not be the same in another due to different workload. Hence, comparison can only be made if work load is the same. Hence, perhaps reefers who have experiences of more than 1 chiller brand with roughly the same workload can give some references as in which brand is better after some observations of the ON/OFF time….

Since I have used Resun CL450, CL650 and this current one, I can see that Daeli chiller has a higher efficiency than Resun…

A point to note is that I would think that when the engineer of a reliable brand of chiller design its product, 40 to 60% duty cycle should be considered and tested to operate for a reasonable time frame…

Lastly, I hope this thread is indeed useful to help fellow reefers to clear some of the misconception….

[midnight angel]

To ALL Bros out there, Thks for the feedback.