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xiaochew
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Hi all,need advise any ways to make clam stick to rock.

just got some clams but they do not have rock stick to them.

Which make them very easy to beening attach by others.

how can i secure them to rock . :thanks:

After a while, they will stick on their own =)

2x1.5x1.5 tank

Lighting: AI hydra 52HD

Skimmer: Deltec SC 1455

Reactor: Minimax; rowaphos

Skimz  ; NP biopellets

Wave Maker: MP 40 WQD

Return pump: Eheim 1262

Chiller: Arctica 1/10 hp

 

A righteous man cares for the needs of his animal, but the kindest acts of the wicked are cruel -- Proverbs 12:10

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use 6-line wrasse the natural predator of pyramid snails.

6x2x2.5 FOWLR

Skimmer - Recirculating Custom Beckett Fr - Skimz Fr Return - OR6500/1262 Wavemaker - Tunze 6060 x 2 Light - 2x5ft FL Blue+White

Chiller - CL650

4x4x2 SPS

Skimmer - DeltecAP851 Fr - Skimz FR Return - OR6500 Wavemaker - 2xTunze wavebox +Ts24 Light - 3x250w MH + 8 ATi t5

CR - Deltec pF601s Chiller - Arctica Titanium Commercial Chiller

3.5x2x2 REEF

Skimmer - HnS150-2001 Fr - Skimz Fr Wavemaker - Tunze Ts 24 Return - 1262 Lights - Solite 2x150W MH + 4 Ati T5 CR - Skimz CR NR - Nr1000 Chiller - Arctica Titanium 1/5

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Whr you bought ur clam from???I noe gt this snail pest for clams one jus like VanDeam said.Use the wrasse to kill it.

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this is the snail pics

http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Di...cfm?pCatId=1763

clam from iwarna.the clam is very healthy when i got from it.

Still got three of them without rock base ,is safe so far.And i have one clam which is in my tank for 6 month till today is okie.They attack them from the back.

money :cry2:

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this is the snail pics

http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_Di...cfm?pCatId=1763

clam from iwarna.the clam is very healthy when i got from it.

Still got three of them without rock base ,is safe so far.And i have one clam which is in my tank for 6 month till today is okie.They attack them from the back.

money :cry2:

Hi bro,

It is always prudent to use a soft toothrush to scrub the shell plus the byssal area of a new clam no matter how healthy it looks to you to rid any parasitic snails.

If I were you, I will remove the clam now for some light scrubbing, place in a separate tank for observation before re-introducing back into the main tank.

Remember those parasitic snails will multiply like plague when left unchecked.

HTH ;)

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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Pyramid Snails

Identification

Pyramid Snails, or Pyrams are very small snails that belong to the Pyramidellidae family. They are generally white in color, have a slender shell that tapers to a point, and do not grow larger than a few millimeters. The Pyramid Snails use their long proboscis, which is a tube-like mouth, to puncture the mantle of a Tridacna Clam in order to feed upon the fluids and zooxanthellae cells contained within. A few snails will typically not pose a threat to a healthy Tridacna Clam. The snails reproduce every 90-120 days, and if left to multiply, can cause serious harm or even death to their host in a very short period of time.

Signs & Symptoms

Evidence of an inflicted clam can be noticed by poor expansion and loss of color within the mantle. The Pyramid Snails feed mostly during the nighttime hours. During the daytime, they will remain either at the base of the clam, or within the scutes of the shell, where they are difficult to spot. It is best to inspect an ailing clam with a flashlight a few hours after the lights have turned off on the aquarium. The small snails will line up at the top of the shell just below the clam's mantle.

Treatment

If you discover these snails, it is best to remove the clam to a separate container of aquarium water. Once out of the aquarium, you can physically remove the adult snails, and brush the entire shell with a new toothbrush in order to remove any eggs.

Natural predators of Pyramid snails include several species of wrasse within the genus of Halichoeres and Pseudocheilinus. A few of the more popular species that are reportedly very efficient at controlling these snails are; Six and Eight Lined Wrasse (P. hexataenia and P. octotaenia), and the Green Wrasse (H. chloropterus).

Source: http://www.liveaquaria.com/general/general...ral_pagesid=362

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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Member of:

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UEN: T08SS0098F
Please visit us here: http://www.facebook....uaristSocietySG
Facebook Group: http://www.facebook....gid=34281892381

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Hi bro,

It is always prudent to use a soft toothrush to scrub the shell plus the byssal area of a new clam no matter how healthy it looks to you to rid any parasitic snails.

If I were you, I will remove the clam now for some light scrubbing, place in a separate tank for observation before re-introducing back into the main tank.

Remember those parasitic snails will multiply like plague when left unchecked.

HTH ;)

good advise to follow

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the nassarius snails? i have those in my tank and they're just mere scavengers for uneaten food and decaying fish.. they don't attack my clams.. it will eat clams?

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Pyramid Snails

Identification

Pyramid Snails, or Pyrams are very small snails that belong to the Pyramidellidae family. They are generally white in color, have a slender shell that tapers to a point, and do not grow larger than a few millimeters. The Pyramid Snails use their long proboscis, which is a tube-like mouth, to puncture the mantle of a Tridacna Clam in order to feed upon the fluids and zooxanthellae cells contained within. A few snails will typically not pose a threat to a healthy Tridacna Clam. The snails reproduce every 90-120 days, and if left to multiply, can cause serious harm or even death to their host in a very short period of time.

Signs & Symptoms

Evidence of an inflicted clam can be noticed by poor expansion and loss of color within the mantle. The Pyramid Snails feed mostly during the nighttime hours. During the daytime, they will remain either at the base of the clam, or within the scutes of the shell, where they are difficult to spot. It is best to inspect an ailing clam with a flashlight a few hours after the lights have turned off on the aquarium. The small snails will line up at the top of the shell just below the clam's mantle.

Treatment

If you discover these snails, it is best to remove the clam to a separate container of aquarium water. Once out of the aquarium, you can physically remove the adult snails, and brush the entire shell with a new toothbrush in order to remove any eggs.

Natural predators of Pyramid snails include several species of wrasse within the genus of Halichoeres and Pseudocheilinus. A few of the more popular species that are reportedly very efficient at controlling these snails are; Six and Eight Lined Wrasse (P. hexataenia and P. octotaenia), and the Green Wrasse (H. chloropterus).

Source: http://www.liveaquaria.com/general/general...ral_pagesid=362

thanks for your great advise will follow it closely. :D:peace:

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How's the situation now? What is your lighting condition?

When face such situation, I will do

1) a quick inspection on the clam and remove any alien things that do not belong to the clam

2) ensure for the next few weeks to months, a good water quality in tank thru' good salt mix and water change regime. No dosing of any additives except water change please.

3) Give your lighting a good clean up and probably a change of bulb if possible when lighting is the suspect.

4) ensure no animal hassle to the clam. Under extreme condition, I will cover the clam with smaller holes punture on plastic container to prevent fish disturbance....

:) Greeting :)

Tank: 4' by 2' by 2' (CR antique)

Sump: 3' include 1' refuigm

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When clam is in such condition, please do not make any more attempt to make him stick to rock.... this will stress him further... Sandbed is the best position 'cos any dropping will almost equal to death when the bottom is exposed to the greedy inhabitants....

Time and patience is need here to heal. When the clam look better, place something suitable for him to attach naturally.

My 2 cents worth....

:) Greeting :)

Tank: 4' by 2' by 2' (CR antique)

Sump: 3' include 1' refuigm

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remove and throw away the shell. Don't let it foul your water. Personally, when you know you have snails attacking from the bottom, try not to get it attach to the rock. Because if there are small gaps between the rock and the clam, those snail will still be able to get it...it would then be more diffcult to remove or for your fishes to prey on them....

I know some article avocate that you alway pick clams that are attached to rocks, but personally i refer those that are not as it would be easier to examine for problems.....

Finally, go to the forum at http://www.clamsdirect.com/ they offer some very good advise in taking care of these pest...

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remove and throw away the shell. Don't let it foul your water. Personally, when you know you have snails attacking from the bottom, try not to get it attach to the rock. Because if there are small gaps between the rock and the clam, those snail will still be able to get it...it would then be more diffcult to remove or for your fishes to prey on them....

I know some article avocate that you alway pick clams that are attached to rocks, but personally i refer those that are not as it would be easier to examine for problems.....

Finally, go to the forum at http://www.clamsdirect.com/ they offer some very good advise in taking care of these pest...

It's the clam meat that rot and foul your water.... what's left in the pic is just the shell.... Why throw away? Isn't that the same compound that u purchase as "coral chip" to buffer your water or CR media?

Also, I disagree with you about clam without rock is better....

When the clam has a firm piece of rock that it has stick for years, do u think there is any gap for pest to be in?

Of course I'm not saying without rock is clam death sentence here.... :lol:

:) Greeting :)

Tank: 4' by 2' by 2' (CR antique)

Sump: 3' include 1' refuigm

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