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Frequency of changing water in a 4ft tank


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  • SRC Member

Hi GUys,

sorry for asking this.. but i am just upgrading to a 4ft tank for the first time.. and it really puzzle me how often do i need to change the water in my new 4 ft tank cos i am only keeping a 2 x 1 ft tank at the current moment which is easy to maintain...

How much water change is needed and if i have a very good filteration system, it is true that i do not need to change water just dose adictive to maintain the water condition..

How do you guy change the water for a big tank ?

please share..

thanks in advance..

My 2ft Tank

Tank specification ;

1) 8 mm glass with external overflow tank

2) 8 mm sump tank

3) Main return pump - AB 3000 ( 45 W )

4) Chiller main return pump - AB 2000i ( 18 W )

5) Chiller - Artica titanium chiller 1/10 HP ( 75 W)

6) Wave maker - tunze 6206 nano wavebox ( 10 W only ! )

7) Skimmer - H & S skimmer with AB needle wheel ( 18 W )

8) CR - RM Calcium reactor with AB 1000 ( 10W )

9) Denitirator - RM suplur Dnitirator with maxi jet pump ( 12 W )

10 ) Lighting - Lumen Auqa LED lighting ( 48 W only ! )

11) Hailei ozone generator ( 7 W )

12) Oceanus 2 x 2ft LED lighting ( 14 W) for chaeto planting

13) Tunze 6025 ( 6 W)

14) Skimz FR with rowa

TOTAL ; 263 W !!!

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I change every fortnightly, I only change one pail per time. The pail is about the size of a coralife salt pail, smaller a bit. I use a maggie mee cup to scope the water and transport into the pail, as I don't want to use any pipes. I don't think "zero" changes of water is a good thing, as salt have most of the trace elements that your tank may need. If you have a very good filtration system, zero NH3, NO2, NO3, PO4, doesn't mean your trace element will remain constant. And the addictives we add are mostly iodine, strongtium, magnisium, calcium etc, there are still lots of other trace element that are required which we usually don't add manually.

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  • SRC Member
I change every fortnightly, I only change one pail per time. The pail is about the size of a coralife salt pail, smaller a bit. I use a maggie mee cup to scope the water and transport into the pail, as I don't want to use any pipes. I don't think "zero" changes of water is a good thing, as salt have most of the trace elements that your tank may need. If you have a very good filtration system, zero NH3, NO2, NO3, PO4, doesn't mean your trace element will remain constant. And the addictives we add are mostly iodine, strongtium, magnisium, calcium etc, there are still lots of other trace element that are required which we usually don't add manually.

Hi bro,

Thanks for the advice..!

My 2ft Tank

Tank specification ;

1) 8 mm glass with external overflow tank

2) 8 mm sump tank

3) Main return pump - AB 3000 ( 45 W )

4) Chiller main return pump - AB 2000i ( 18 W )

5) Chiller - Artica titanium chiller 1/10 HP ( 75 W)

6) Wave maker - tunze 6206 nano wavebox ( 10 W only ! )

7) Skimmer - H & S skimmer with AB needle wheel ( 18 W )

8) CR - RM Calcium reactor with AB 1000 ( 10W )

9) Denitirator - RM suplur Dnitirator with maxi jet pump ( 12 W )

10 ) Lighting - Lumen Auqa LED lighting ( 48 W only ! )

11) Hailei ozone generator ( 7 W )

12) Oceanus 2 x 2ft LED lighting ( 14 W) for chaeto planting

13) Tunze 6025 ( 6 W)

14) Skimz FR with rowa

TOTAL ; 263 W !!!

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i have not been changing my water for more than 2 years now. corals still growing and fishes still mischievous

Bro, does your tank have green or brown algae, since you have not changed water?

I have tried for more than 1 year without change water and just top up. The idiot algae just grow like crazy and my LR and tank glass is filled with it.

Lets share the best and easiest way to reefing.

Btw, do you run Rowa/Sorb4/Carbon or anything that control algae?

:thanks: for sharing your secret :D

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You can dose trace element also

I only top up with DI water daily due to evaporation lost

6.5 * 2 * 2 + 3.75 * 1.5 *1.5,(Decomn on 14/9/08)
4*2*2 + 2.5*1.25*1.25 (Decomn on 1/8/09)
5*2*2 (Fully LED light system, 140 3 watt SSC leds with 60 degree lens)(Decomm)
2.5*2*2(Fully LED Light System,96 3 watt SSC leds with 60 degree lens)(Decomm)

5*2.5*2(LED only)

Eheim return 1 * pump

1 HP Daikin compressor with cooling coil
2 Jebao OW40, 1 ecotech MP40,
1X6085 Tunze wm,

1 CURVE 7 Skimmer

  1 DIY 80 led control by Bluefish mini 

1 radion XR30W G2, 2 Radion XR15G3

Sump area lite by 5 ft T5 , 6 * SSC 3 watt red LED for refugium

1 Full spectrum E27 led light

1 CR control by bubble count

Start No Water Change since 1st Dec 2016

Add new 2.5x2x 1.5 ft 

 nLekOfpYts.jpg
[/quote]


 

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Bro, does your tank have green or brown algae, since you have not changed water?

I have tried for more than 1 year without change water and just top up. The idiot algae just grow like crazy and my LR and tank glass is filled with it.

Lets share the best and easiest way to reefing.

Btw, do you run Rowa/Sorb4/Carbon or anything that control algae?

:thanks: for sharing your secret :D

Hi,

I am quite new in this hobby but apparently , my tank have been running a year , free from algae.

I seek the help of 5 x Turbo snails in my 3 x 2 x 2 .

So far , it been good.

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  • SRC Member

Wow.. that may mean... with a good setup and filtration system... this will surely reduce the frequency of water changing too...

whereas for the lost of marine trace found in salt water, we can add back by dosing supplement then..

any one else could share their experience ? cos come to think of it again, it is really not easy to change water esp for a 4 ft high tank..

My 2ft Tank

Tank specification ;

1) 8 mm glass with external overflow tank

2) 8 mm sump tank

3) Main return pump - AB 3000 ( 45 W )

4) Chiller main return pump - AB 2000i ( 18 W )

5) Chiller - Artica titanium chiller 1/10 HP ( 75 W)

6) Wave maker - tunze 6206 nano wavebox ( 10 W only ! )

7) Skimmer - H & S skimmer with AB needle wheel ( 18 W )

8) CR - RM Calcium reactor with AB 1000 ( 10W )

9) Denitirator - RM suplur Dnitirator with maxi jet pump ( 12 W )

10 ) Lighting - Lumen Auqa LED lighting ( 48 W only ! )

11) Hailei ozone generator ( 7 W )

12) Oceanus 2 x 2ft LED lighting ( 14 W) for chaeto planting

13) Tunze 6025 ( 6 W)

14) Skimz FR with rowa

TOTAL ; 263 W !!!

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  • SRC Member

Bro, does your tank have green or brown algae, since you have not changed water?

I have tried for more than 1 year without change water and just top up. The idiot algae just grow like crazy and my LR and tank glass is filled with it.

Lets share the best and easiest way to reefing.

Btw, do you run Rowa/Sorb4/Carbon or anything that control algae?

:thanks: for sharing your secret :D

the most important is the setup. You must have have a good sump setup and lots of LR.

I have stopped using my Skimmer for more than 1.5 years ago. I only maintain a Phos/silicate absorber in tank and change it every 6 months. Carbon are used every 3 months for 2 weeks to absorb those dirty things. I have some algae growing but not much. The most problem is the coraline algae.

I top up all those trace, calcium, strontium, magnesium,... very 2 months. I just throw them in. I have stopped using my Calcium Reactor for 2 years. All of corals and fishes had accomodate to the water parameters fluctuations. Most reefers have doted too much on their corals hence their corals are forever sensitive.

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Changing water is quite a controversial thing

People swear by it and people have been successful NOT doing it

Well, subjected to your tank's setup, I think its still better to change out once in a while :)

But if you tame me, we shall need each other.

To me, you will be unique in all the world.

To you, I shall be unique in all the world...

You become responsible, forever, for what you have tamed.

-Antoine de Saint-Exupery

Keep our hobby sustainable, participate in fragging NOW

CHAETO Farmer FarmerDan.gif

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  • SRC Member

the most important is the setup. You must have have a good sump setup and lots of LR.

I have stopped using my Skimmer for more than 1.5 years ago. I only maintain a Phos/silicate absorber in tank and change it every 6 months. Carbon are used every 3 months for 2 weeks to absorb those dirty things. I have some algae growing but not much. The most problem is the coraline algae.

I top up all those trace, calcium, strontium, magnesium,... very 2 months. I just throw them in. I have stopped using my Calcium Reactor for 2 years. All of corals and fishes had accomodate to the water parameters fluctuations. Most reefers have doted too much on their corals hence their corals are forever sensitive.

hello there reeftask

its interesting tt u r able to control ur nutrient level where skimmer is not a neccessity for u anymore for the past 1.5 yrs. its amazing i like to know how u really go abt doing it. :o

n every 3 mths n only for 2 wks carbon r use n after 2 wks u don use carbon anymore? <_<

how many corals do u have in ur tank is it more on hard or soft ? n every 2 months

all the necessary additives will b introduce into d tank. :bow:

wow bro can give some tips . :D or bro can show some pics will b more interesting.

:peace:

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well the main thing is that I dont dote on my corals. When I first setup my tank 7 years ago, I used to changed water every day on my 3 ft tank. Its a nightmare! I sleep only at 4-5 am and everyday not enough sleep. After the first crash on Ich, I got fedup and started a 5ft tank. I designed my tank, sump and pipings for 3 months. Then I started patiencely killing everything in the LR and cycle for 6 months before starting adding fishes/shrimps. Patience is the key to start the tank.

The carbon can be used 2 times and I threw them away. These 2 X 2 weeks will worn out after absorbing so much dirty harrys. Better be careful than to be sorry.

I have Yumas and Foridas mostly. They grow like nobody's business. I have most soft corals and only a bit hard corals. I have seen 2 hard corals that grew by itself. I was stress at work and when I rescaped my LR, I forgotten about them. After I had remembered, I have no idea where are them. Some soft corals, which are totally dead many years ago will grow back from different LR which amazed me.

Recently, I was shocked that my refugium has small tiny turbo snails (1mm) which passed through my filter system. I found them on the LR at the bottom refugium which has no light. So I picked them up and placed into the tank. Hopes they wont go into the filter system again. I have only 2 large Turbo snails left since a year because the rest had climbed over the overflo system and end up dead in there. The water flow in there is so fast, 6000L/hour.

I have no digicam, spoilt. Tips: dont dote on your fishes/corals. Slowly make them adapt to the environment. Patience is the key to start the tank. At my sump bottom, I have half inch gap. On center, I have 7inches 0-grade coral sand. On top I have lots of LR. At the filter system compartment, I have grade-10 coral sands after the filter pads. At the last compartment, there is where I place my pump for flow back to main tank and all the chiller pipe, carbon,...

At the moment I am busy researching if I can make my cleaner shrimp withstand the hypo salinity condition for 3 months. I am busy too helping a friend to a new setup on 5ft tank with 4ft sump which replacing his 3ft tank and sump.

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i couldn't agree more with longer cycling period than normally done at only 1 month or less.

me in a process of planning to upgrade to 6ft n was already set in my mind to cycle water for at least 3 mths or so coz i done my R&D of my own talking to ppl who r involve in marine biology n some professors.

juz 1 question tt i need to ask if i don't care for d fishes or corals so as to like love someone vry much tt u r unable to see their faults (dote)but 1 who manage their time management vry well i don see there is a reason y not to. i spend my time everyday on the aquarium for only 15 mins for the it needs n other than tt will only b viewing it n only once a week i spend 60 to 90 mins during my off day on the aquarium. i've done a numerous numbers of filtration method i was lucky coz my wrk does involved in filtration n with join forces with few human brain we succeed.

this is not a challenge but picture this if let say i don use a skimmer, i don use d carbon for more than 2 weeks n i don't dote wat i have achieved wat will happen to this....pic attached. :peace:

post-6-1188877421.jpg

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Depends dude... But in my humble opinion ( i am keeping full sps tank) that small regular waterchange is the best way to go.... i find that if i do not change the water regularly the water will more or less slightly turn yellow... of course there is carbon....but i dont want to depend solely on it.... so what i did was jusy change with NSW per weekend...

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i couldn't agree more with longer cycling period than normally done at only 1 month or less.

me in a process of planning to upgrade to 6ft n was already set in my mind to cycle water for at least 3 mths or so coz i done my R&D of my own talking to ppl who r involve in marine biology n some professors.

juz 1 question tt i need to ask if i don't care for d fishes or corals so as to like love someone vry much tt u r unable to see their faults (dote)but 1 who manage their time management vry well i don see there is a reason y not to. i spend my time everyday on the aquarium for only 15 mins for the it needs n other than tt will only b viewing it n only once a week i spend 60 to 90 mins during my off day on the aquarium. i've done a numerous numbers of filtration method i was lucky coz my wrk does involved in filtration n with join forces with few human brain we succeed.

this is not a challenge but picture this if let say i don use a skimmer, i don use d carbon for more than 2 weeks n i don't dote wat i have achieved wat will happen to this....pic attached. :peace:

Brother storm wow :ooh: there many prata in your tank may I or all of us know how you feed your prata target prawn feeding and the rest of coral what liquid food to feed them like to buy them too :thanks:

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Depends dude... But in my humble opinion ( i am keeping full sps tank) that small regular waterchange is the best way to go.... i find that if i do not change the water regularly the water will more or less slightly turn yellow... of course there is carbon....but i dont want to depend solely on it.... so what i did was jusy change with NSW per weekend...

r u talking to me ? :D

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Brother storm wow :ooh: there many prata in your tank may I or all of us know how you feed your prata target prawn feeding and the rest of coral what liquid food to feed them like to buy them too :thanks:

Hello there katoboy

with due respect i think its not appropriate for me say in this thread coz the topic is all abt maintaining ur tank water.

pm me or go to my tank thread ask me i will give u the respect in answering it.

:peace:

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  • SRC Member
i couldn't agree more with longer cycling period than normally done at only 1 month or less.

me in a process of planning to upgrade to 6ft n was already set in my mind to cycle water for at least 3 mths or so coz i done my R&D of my own talking to ppl who r involve in marine biology n some professors.

juz 1 question tt i need to ask if i don't care for d fishes or corals so as to like love someone vry much tt u r unable to see their faults (dote)but 1 who manage their time management vry well i don see there is a reason y not to. i spend my time everyday on the aquarium for only 15 mins for the it needs n other than tt will only b viewing it n only once a week i spend 60 to 90 mins during my off day on the aquarium. i've done a numerous numbers of filtration method i was lucky coz my wrk does involved in filtration n with join forces with few human brain we succeed.

this is not a challenge but picture this if let say i don use a skimmer, i don use d carbon for more than 2 weeks n i don't dote wat i have achieved wat will happen to this....pic attached. :peace:

Wow... this LPS tank is Awesoon !! Cant belive it is done without the regualkr change of water..

so the key point is still have a good filtration system..

My 2ft Tank

Tank specification ;

1) 8 mm glass with external overflow tank

2) 8 mm sump tank

3) Main return pump - AB 3000 ( 45 W )

4) Chiller main return pump - AB 2000i ( 18 W )

5) Chiller - Artica titanium chiller 1/10 HP ( 75 W)

6) Wave maker - tunze 6206 nano wavebox ( 10 W only ! )

7) Skimmer - H & S skimmer with AB needle wheel ( 18 W )

8) CR - RM Calcium reactor with AB 1000 ( 10W )

9) Denitirator - RM suplur Dnitirator with maxi jet pump ( 12 W )

10 ) Lighting - Lumen Auqa LED lighting ( 48 W only ! )

11) Hailei ozone generator ( 7 W )

12) Oceanus 2 x 2ft LED lighting ( 14 W) for chaeto planting

13) Tunze 6025 ( 6 W)

14) Skimz FR with rowa

TOTAL ; 263 W !!!

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Yeah I believe the key is to make sure a cycle goes on in the system

I mean what is produced is taken in by another organism.

Like bro copperband, I too keep a largely SPS reef and I haven't changed water for the past 2 years already.

However, I'd suggest that if you have the time and need a workout, just change out some water :lol:

But if you tame me, we shall need each other.

To me, you will be unique in all the world.

To you, I shall be unique in all the world...

You become responsible, forever, for what you have tamed.

-Antoine de Saint-Exupery

Keep our hobby sustainable, participate in fragging NOW

CHAETO Farmer FarmerDan.gif

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  • SRC Member
Yeah I believe the key is to make sure a cycle goes on in the system

I mean what is produced is taken in by another organism.

Like bro copperband, I too keep a largely SPS reef and I haven't changed water for the past 2 years already.

However, I'd suggest that if you have the time and need a workout, just change out some water :lol:

Yeah to my survey too changing water is the cheapest way too. And can have free exercise when usually we dont. Change more water makes us perspire and so free sauna.

:P

BTW, be a chaeto farmer can help you to harvest money and smoke pipe as above pic

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so the debate over changing or not changing of water regularly continues....

haha..

My 2ft Tank

Tank specification ;

1) 8 mm glass with external overflow tank

2) 8 mm sump tank

3) Main return pump - AB 3000 ( 45 W )

4) Chiller main return pump - AB 2000i ( 18 W )

5) Chiller - Artica titanium chiller 1/10 HP ( 75 W)

6) Wave maker - tunze 6206 nano wavebox ( 10 W only ! )

7) Skimmer - H & S skimmer with AB needle wheel ( 18 W )

8) CR - RM Calcium reactor with AB 1000 ( 10W )

9) Denitirator - RM suplur Dnitirator with maxi jet pump ( 12 W )

10 ) Lighting - Lumen Auqa LED lighting ( 48 W only ! )

11) Hailei ozone generator ( 7 W )

12) Oceanus 2 x 2ft LED lighting ( 14 W) for chaeto planting

13) Tunze 6025 ( 6 W)

14) Skimz FR with rowa

TOTAL ; 263 W !!!

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so the debate over changing or not changing of water regularly continues....

haha..

Well, one must know how to crawl on four first before learning to balance, walk and run.... one knows oneself the best else who will..... ;)

:) Greeting :)

Tank: 4' by 2' by 2' (CR antique)

Sump: 3' include 1' refuigm

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I have Yumas and Foridas mostly. They grow like nobody's business. I have most soft corals and only a bit hard corals. I have seen 2 hard corals that grew by itself. I was stress at work and when I rescaped my LR, I forgotten about them. After I had remembered, I have no idea where are them. Some soft corals, which are totally dead many years ago will grow back from different LR which amazed me.

Recently, I was shocked that my refugium has small tiny turbo snails (1mm) which passed through my filter system. I found them on the LR at the bottom refugium which has no light. So I picked them up and placed into the tank. Hopes they wont go into the filter system again. I have only 2 large Turbo snails left since a year because the rest had climbed over the overflo system and end up dead in there. The water flow in there is so fast, 6000L/hour.

I have no digicam, spoilt. Tips: dont dote on your fishes/corals. Slowly make them adapt to the environment. Patience is the key to start the tank. At my sump bottom, I have half inch gap. On center, I have 7inches 0-grade coral sand. On top I have lots of LR. At the filter system compartment, I have grade-10 coral sands after the filter pads. At the last compartment, there is where I place my pump for flow back to main tank and all the chiller pipe, carbon,...

Well, perhaps this method works for hardier fish and corals, but I would personally not recommend having no water change unless you really have no time to do it. Just think about this for a moment:

how much water is there in an open ocean ecosystem compared to the density of the livestock? We are trying to compress a lot of living organisms into a very small little piece of ocean called our tanks. imagine if your glass tank dropped into the ocean and sat on the seabed, how tiny it would look compared to the rest of the natural habitat for these creatures.

In addition, we do not import a *complete* ecosystem as found in the ocean, merely a small portion, particularly the pretty looking specimens of corals and fish. So, it is like assembling a car engine but using only some of the parts and not others. I doubt it will run as it should.

Not doing water change is basically assuming that we are able to completely replicate the ocean conditions just using filtration devices and additives. I think this is a little too optimistic. Just because we don't see immediate coral damage doesn't mean our tanks are ideal living places. And for livestock that do not do well, we can easily assign the blame to flow, disease, insufficient lighting, food, temperature, etc etc. But perhaps a large contributing factor should be the water itself. After all, this is the medium in which all the livestock live, breath and move about. Imagine if you were on the moon without a space suit. I don't think it will matter if you have good food and a nice bed, you'll be dead in a few seconds.

In summary, I think a prudent reefer would do regular water changes, recognising that we are unable to totally control water parameters in a small ecosystem like our tanks, especially unknown or little understood parameters besides the basic PH, KH, NO3, etc etc. The ocean keeps its water fresh, we should do the same.

Be teachable always, nobody has a monopoly on wisdom. But learn to distinguish "fact" from "opinion".

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