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Roidan's 4ft tank


roidan
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if you can see from the picture..it is actually the sticker that turned green instead of the INNER circle that you mentioned that should be exposed by tearing the sticker...

one thing about seachem's instructions was to remove the protective sticker...but it is the transparent sticker that cover the whole face of the unit..not this circular yellow sticker as you said...

if i had removed the circular sticker, wouldn't this picture show a yellow all the time instead of what you are seeing in the picture now? The green-alert colour would not have been observed if i had taken out the sticker :P

post-34-1069635965.jpg

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:cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry:

But if you tame me, we shall need each other.

To me, you will be unique in all the world.

To you, I shall be unique in all the world...

You become responsible, forever, for what you have tamed.

-Antoine de Saint-Exupery

Keep our hobby sustainable, participate in fragging NOW

CHAETO Farmer FarmerDan.gif

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Can understand...I was feeling that way too when my first and only Moorish died after a month of starvation... :cry2:

Time will heal all wounds... :peace:

my moorish din eat anything i threw in for a week safter i bot it, but it's starting to eat now..

i'm praying that it'll survive. really thin now. :(

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some articles say that freshwater dip will not eradicate the root of the white spot problem..it is so deep in the fish that will not be affected by dip or even gradual hyposalinty.....it can only relieve the fish abit but the main job has to be done by the fish itself to fight the ich

"Freshwater dips are generally ineffective in the treatment of marine "Ich" infestations. Trophonts burrow deeply into the epithelium where they are generally protected from external influences. Colorni (1985) found that even after 18 hours in freshwater, infected fish still have trophonts attached in the same positions as they had held before the freshwater treatment. The trophonts later detached and completed their life cycle as normal.

Trophonts penetrate the epithelium which causes a loss in osmoregulatory capability. Infected fish are less able to cope with a sudden and drastic change in the ionic concentration of their environment. This is likely to cause further stress to the fish which will impair their ability to acquire immunity to the parasite. "

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different from wat I read.

fresh water dip does has it effectiveness for me.

so called parasite will take in fresh water so much, it will sort of balloon n explode.

if u note, esp blue tang, after a dip, the spots will appear bloated.

negative is, its extremely stress for fishes. totally

different environment.

imagine a scenario where u are dip in a wok of boiling oil, definitely will kill all if most of your germs, but you are of course badly "BBQ". of course this is a extreme scenario I quoted to let the layman see.

freshwater dip has work for me, but I have greatly reduce usage of them due to selective purchase of LS from reputable LFS, n slow introduction n quarantine the new stock, plus boast of immune system with garlic guard.

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thats why it mentioned about the parasites that are already deeply entrenched into the fish body...the external ones will explode with contact with freshwater from osmotic pressure but its the internal ones that are fatal.....

that's advance stage "cancer", dip or drip also almost no use.

depends on the fish on will power liao.

if u noted slight ich, quickly take note of it, n quarantine it if necessary. esp if all your stocks are pretty new. like mine, all

immune liao. once a while one or two buggers will get ich, due

to stress by big boss (maroon) or makan the wrong food.

will recover by itself.

Early in the morning I spent abt 5mins to note the fishes in my tank.

If one dun comes abt eating (other then the usual lazy bums), at nite I will come back n check it again.

Prevention is betta than cure. :)

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Powderblue are naturally hard to keep and very ich-prone. I do not know if the first posting in this thread is the first day you started cycling so please correct me if I am wrong.

It is noticed that you added your first fish on the 15th or 16th which is two weeks after cycling started and before that there were already corals in the sump. This is a new tank right? Not so sure if nitrates have gone down to low levels. This might have stressed the delicate powder blue.

I think when AT and Phang added their tang, it was like months after their tanks were setup. Might want to consider adding another powder blue if you want, in a couple of months' time when the conditions in the tank are more stable.

As for freshwater dip, never did help for me. Maybe someone can teach me the proper way to do it. Thanks.

Just my 2 cent's worth.

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Powderblue are naturally hard to keep and very ich-prone. I do not know if the first posting in this thread is the first day you started cycling so please correct me if I am wrong.

It is noticed that you added your first fish on the 15th or 16th which is two weeks after cycling started and before that there were already corals in the sump. This is a new tank right? Not so sure if nitrates have gone down to low levels. This might have stressed the delicate powder blue.

I think when AT and Phang added their tang, it was like months after their tanks were setup. Might want to consider adding another powder blue if you want, in a couple of months' time when the conditions in the tank are more stable.

As for freshwater dip, never did help for me. Maybe someone can teach me the proper way to do it. Thanks.

Just my 2 cent's worth.

oh.. u talking abt who..?

as for freshwater.. try to reduce the salinity level.

what I did is get a KFC small bucket. half fill

with water from tank, then fresh water. ensure

temperature same as tank. add two

drops of coppersafe. dip the fish in there, bubble

it. monitor the fish. if too stress, take out n put back

in tank. do not, I says again, do not leave your fish

there overnite..!

maximum dip I gave is 30mins. I did it quite successfully

on my domino (all white), clowns.. some other fishes when

they are all new n suppose to be more defensive weak.

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The rocks were cured in those huge toyogo tubs long before the tank came and the additional rocks were cured from coral farm....in any case, i waited till ammonia and nitrites were 0 before i added those tangs....

I knew nitrates would be a problem and that's why i cured the rocks before the tank came and brought over the rocks from my old tank into the sump as well as seeded the sand in my sump with sand from my old tank...

I tested for nitrates everyday....it never went above 10PPM using salifert and <12.5 using Tetra since its the banding limit on the Tetra test kit...

If there wasn't enough *natural matured tank algae* for the powder to graze leading to its demise, I accept this reasoning....but i tried with nori, and macroalgae and all the other feeds that i posted in the thread..the other fishes were eating...corals were opening big and healthy....

So I can't accept if someone say that my nitrates were too high (unless you guys feel that 10ppm is dangerously high for the livestock) I know that 0ppm is desirable....but in my own amateurish judgement from my 2 year amateur-reefing, I think this level is sustainable for reasonable livestock and coral health....

In any case, i tend to believe that coral health would decline first, followed by fishes....nonetheless, i still choose to kiasu and test nitrates everyday....

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