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Coil denitrator


killfire
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Anyone with any experience on the above, can pls share? I am planning to do one for my next DIY project but would like to find out if it is worth the trouble.... if not, is anyone interested in building one so that we can compare data, procedures??

articles and plans for the above can be found here:

http://saltaquarium.about.com/cs/chilladddenitradiy/

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi,

I had my DIY denitrator as per suggestion. Had experiencing plenty of rotten egg odour although I have adjusted the flow rate from slow to fast & vice versa using a plastic air valve. Common air tubing was used abt 100 feet long. Real tiring to coil around in the plastic 4" tubing. Although at the end of the day, there isnt any ammonia nor nitrite flowed out, nevertheless the rotten egg smell didnt stop.

So I shelved the item.

:cry2:

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Anyone with any experience on the above, can pls share? I am planning to do one for my next DIY project but would like to find out if it is worth the trouble.... if not, is anyone interested in building one so that we can compare data, procedures??

articles and plans for the above can be found here:

http://saltaquarium.about.com/cs/chilladddenitradiy/

Hi...intersted in this, but what are you using as the cyclinder?

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I was thinking of building one using 5mm (internal diameter) clear pvc tube. Ordinary air tubing may clog after a while. Will not coil them in cylinder, but will connect its output to the cylinder fill with bio-balls. Think it will work.

Have read this many times, long thread, but from real experience.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...or&pagenumber=1

post-9-1067838197.jpg

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I was thinking of building one using 5mm (internal diameter) clear pvc tube. Ordinary air tubing may clog after a while. Will not coil them in cylinder, but will connect its output to the cylinder fill with bio-balls. Think it will work.

Dun use the normal air hose. Use the silicon type, will not harden over time. To prevent clog, will have to do a prefilter for water entering and flush it regularly

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Dun use the normal air hose. Use the silicon type, will not harden over time. To prevent clog, will have to do a prefilter for water entering and flush it regularly

Think transparent hose is ok, don't think they'll break so easily. Silicon 5mm (internal diameter) not easy to find, and not cheap for 100 ft.

Yes, prefilter is a must. Don't think its a good idea to flush, you'll have to recycle the matured denitrator.

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I recall reading somewhere that the the tube should ideally be opaque. Can't remember why - maybe its to prevent algae buildup or maybe the bacteria thrives in the dark.

FF

Yes, I read that too. Problem is a suitable transparent one is already so difficult to find, opaque will be worst. This can be overcome by wrapping the coil with any opaque material, even with newspaper :)

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I read that for denitrators, the flow rate is crucial to the success. You can't have more or less, it has to be just right. Many of the attempts I have read find it a hassle to tune the device as well as to fuel it. In the end, many just switched to a plenuum or DSB...

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Why DIY when you can get one? The price is worth buying as well, as it will save you from lots of troubles, those "rotten eggs" smell are Hydrogen Sulphide (Or similiar spelling) which is poisonous to all living things.

Any recommendations? I am keen in investigating... So far I only found the black box denitrator from Sera.

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Hi Matt06

Yes, that rotten egg smell is hydrogen sulphide. Bcos of tt smell and after adjusting the valve high n low, the smell stilll around. So I shelved the project.

When I dismantled the denitrator, I found that the white colour of the inner PVC tube turned black and the plastic air hose turned yellow (sulphur rite).

I keep tab of the nitrate in my tank, if it really a big problem, I will go back to the DIY project and really check the flow rate. Maybe use a better control valve which is more precise.

Any idea where to get a better control valve. I was using the plastic air valve.

HAVE A NICE DAY.

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