2400 X 900 X 900 project

[CalciumReef]

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...&postid=1171757

[AlexCWSoo]

Thanks to all bros. who has help in the acylic joint. Read throught all article found on the net and still not very good result. So added another layer of bracing. And now that I found i am getting good at this...Hehe. Practice . Practice and Practice.

[AlexCWSoo]

10 micron filter bags to polish up the water. hopes it will work.

[AlexCWSoo]

The product of 3 days of hard work. 2 jointed sump tank

[yvoneysl]

10 micron filter bags to polish up the water. hopes it will work.

Where u buy those micron bags...I have been searching all this while

[AlexCWSoo]

Where u buy those micron bags...I have been searching all this while

Did not get the shop name. It is at Towner Road, the shop is beside towner road post office. They specialise in all kind of industrial filter. PM me if you need more help in locating them.

[bluezing]

hang on a sec!!!

arent u...ah seng from ah seng aquarium!!!?!??!

wanna put ur killer whale?!

haha...

[jervismun]

The product of 3 days of hard work. 2 jointed sump tank

I must say you are a very busy man... and a very talented one too

[AlexCWSoo]

I must say you are a very busy man... and a very talented one too

Thanks bros. Busy??? may be. also a bit lazy. Talented?? well the internet is really very talented, learned a lot.

Happy new year everyone.

Will test water today

[yvoneysl]

The product of 3 days of hard work. 2 jointed sump tank

How thk is the acylic?? Maybe you want to consider add in top euro bracing to the arcylic sump for additional strength

[AlexCWSoo]

Finally get to fill up the tank with fresh water to get a feel of the water movement. Found a few error.

- Water level too high

- very noisy return

- balancing pipe between the 2 sump too small (32mm)

- tank is not completely flat (does not sit properly with stand)

- slight leak in pipe joint

will work on it tomorrow.

[godzillaliu88]

that is really a lot of water.

[yvoneysl]

very outstanding with the yellow back ground- nice

[jervismun]

Finally get to fill up the tank with fresh water to get a feel of the water movement. Found a few error.

- Water level too high

- very noisy return

- balancing pipe between the 2 sump too small (32mm)

- tank is not completely flat (does not sit properly with stand)

- slight leak in pipe joint

will work on it tomorrow.

Yeah... a project as huge and as experimental as yours will bound to have some hiccups here and there... and you are quite a perfectionist All the best to your FIXING day

[AlexCWSoo]

Wah! bros. still thinking about reefing at 1:00am yeh..will work on it today and see how much can be done.

[amboi36]

very nice and WOW..........speechless. Good luck and don't forget to post more pics. Have a wonderful reef day

[AlexCWSoo]

Water going through the filter.

[AlexCWSoo]

Return noise? Ha ..much easy then i thought.. put a temporary piece of pipe there and it almost complete silence. But found that the return going into both side of addon box for the tunze is too slow. Almost overflow the main tank with only 2 unit of tunze running. Hmmm back on the drawing table, will sleep over it tonight and hopfully dream of a solution.

[nakazoru]

Hi Alex;

I read with interest with this thread. Probably going to be the tank that makes it to science center.

I however took much interest in the LED lights construction. Please help ans my qns as I may consider a similar DIY.

1. Since the solaris uses 25 X 3W LED bank, it claims to equivalent to 250W HQI in terms of PAR. Here you use K1 which uses twice as much power. Any reason for doing so? Will it not produces some near equavalent to > 400W HQI?

2. Understood that you intent to water-cool the LED. That is really a brilliant idea. But I puzzled when I saw the water block in acrylic. Since the LED may heat up till 250C at the LED junction, presuming it does, does it not melt the acrylic or crack it? Even it doesn't acrylic by no means is a heat sink material. Care to share the concept.

3. How about the drivers of the LED, did you also buy them? I a little confused with the selection of drivers.

Since this is a pilot project of this scale, wish you luck. If need help, I also like to learn from you.

Cheers

[AlexCWSoo]

Hi Alex;

I read with interest with this thread. Probably going to be the tank that makes it to science center.

I however took much interest in the LED lights construction. Please help ans my qns as I may consider a similar DIY.

1. Since the solaris uses 25 X 3W LED bank, it claims to equivalent to 250W HQI in terms of PAR. Here you use K1 which uses twice as much power. Any reason for doing so? Will it not produces some near equavalent to > 400W HQI?

2. Understood that you intent to water-cool the LED. That is really a brilliant idea. But I puzzled when I saw the water block in acrylic. Since the LED may heat up till 250C at the LED junction, presuming it does, does it not melt the acrylic or crack it? Even it doesn't acrylic by no means is a heat sink material. Care to share the concept.

3. How about the drivers of the LED, did you also buy them? I a little confused with the selection of drivers.

Since this is a pilot project of this scale, wish you luck. If need help, I also like to learn from you.

Cheers

Hi Nakazoru,

1. I am not sure what is the PAR value is, but just wanted to have the brightest that I can lay my hands on, if too bright can always trim down Right

2. The acrylic block is use to carry water around to cool the copper plate which the LED is mounted on. With water cool, I will not expect the juntion temperature to go more than 50 Deg (theory only).

3. Still have not decide on the driver yet. But will be leaning towards a web base PLC controller.

[piero]

Hi Nakazoru,

1. I am not sure what is the PAR value is, but just wanted to have the brightest that I can lay my hands on, if too bright can always trim down Right

2. The acrylic block is use to carry water around to cool the copper plate which the LED is mounted on. With water cool, I will not expect the juntion temperature to go more than 50 Deg (theory only).

3. Still have not decide on the driver yet. But will be leaning towards a web base PLC controller.

Wow... I do hope that you can share yr DIY once its up and running. Interested in LED lighting too. So what colour temp are the bulbs going to be?

[nakazoru]

Hi Nakazoru,

1. I am not sure what is the PAR value is, but just wanted to have the brightest that I can lay my hands on, if too bright can always trim down Right

2. The acrylic block is use to carry water around to cool the copper plate which the LED is mounted on. With water cool, I will not expect the juntion temperature to go more than 50 Deg (theory only).

3. Still have not decide on the driver yet. But will be leaning towards a web base PLC controller.

Hi Alex;

Thanks for the explanation.

1. You are right, you can easily trim down even with a simple trim pot. Even better a controllable driver.

2. For the cooling, I can see the LED sits on the cooper plate, which is great as copper is best material for heat transfer. If the acrylic holds the water, would the acrylic not becomes a insulation between the copper plate and the water? This is my concern in this case since acrylic has a low thermal coefficient.

3. Wow, if u are looking at a PLC, my guess is that it will be a dimmable configuration. I only hope you are not thinking of multiple dimmable configuration, which might make the lights very bullky and costly.

I considering may be to buy a K2, lens and holder as reference. You think is okay with u? Can PM me the price if u are willing.

[AlexCWSoo]

Here is the acrylic block with grove (water channel). The track is right on top of the LED juntion. This side is to be in contact with the copper plate. The round grove in the picture is for the lens mounting which is slightly protruding out of the copper plate.

[AlexCWSoo]

Here is a view of the water inlet/outlet

[AlexCWSoo]

The side view. Copper plate below and acrylic block above. The red colour ugly stuff is liquid gasket. will definately have to improve on that in the final product.