Need Review on AM Schwefelnitratreduktor SN 400

[Altantis]

Need review and feedback using Aqua Medic Schwefelnitratreduktor SN 400

Can feedback on this equipment and whether it is better than their Nitratereductor 400. Whether you used it or heard anything on this equipment, I don't mind to know more.

Aqua Medic Schwefelnitratreduktor SN 400

Nitratereductor with sulphur beads

The construction of the Sulphur Nitratereductor 400 is technically almost identical to the Nitratreductor 400. It contains a circulation pump, that circulates the water through the sulphur beads and the Hydrocarbonate. Otherwise, than the known Nitratereductor, the Sulphur Nitratereductor uses special bacteria, that use sulphur as energy source to remove nitrate. As a by product, sulphuric acid is produced, that is neutralised by the Hydrocarbonate in the filter. The Sulphur Nitratereductor is recommended for aquariums up to 400 l.

[Altantis]

Sorry all... I think the English name for this equipment is >>>

Sulphur - Nitratereductor 400

[Altantis]

1. Product description

The Sulphur-Nitratereductor consists of the reaction vessel (height = 37 cm, volume approx. 2.3 l).

The 2 inner baskets of the reaction vessel are filled with sulphur beads and Hydrocarbonate. In the top of the filter, the water outlet is placed. Besides the top, you find the water inlet and the port for the pressure resistent mV electrode (thread PG13,5). For the Sulphur -Nitratereductor 400 a special probe whith is shorter in length is available (220.14).

2. Theory

Nitrate is coming into the aquarium via 2 different paths:

- with the tap water, with every water change or with the replacement of the evaporated water

- by biological reactions in the aquarium.

These biological reactions are responsible for the farmost biggest part of the increase of the nitrate level.

How is nitrate produced in the aquarium?

When the animals are fed with dried, living or frozen food, proteinaceous substances get into the aquarium. These are the basics of the diet for the animals. A big part of the nitrogen, from the food is however excreted into the water. This nitrogen is metabolised by bacteria, living in the aerobic filter via the toxic intermediate substances ammonium and nitrite to the less toxic nitrate. These biolochemical reactions take place in the presence of oxygen:

The bacterium Nitrosomonas oxidises Ammonia to Nitrite, the bakterium Nitrobacter the Nitrite to Nitrate.

In most aquaria, nitrate is the endproduct of bacterial metabolism and accumulates in the water.

Only higher water plants and algaes are able to remove this nitrate from the aquarium water.

What is the effect of nitrate in the aquarium?

- Overfertilisation/Eutrophication. The aquarium is overfertilised, the algae growth increases and cannot be controlled anymore.

- Toxic effects to the animals. Many invertebrate animals in sea water tanks are very sensitive to higher nitrate levels.

3. Working principle of the Sulphur -Nitratereductor

In the Sulphur -Nitratereductor the water is treated anaerobically. In the absence of oxigen, many bacteria are able to use nitrate as a substitute for oxigen for their metabolism.

The oxigen is used for the metabolism, the nitrogen is excreted into the water. Nitrogen gas is a natural compound of the water and totally harmless.

It is, however, necessary to increase the metabolism of the bacteria, so that they can reduce enough nitrate. For this reason, the nitrate removing bacteria have to be fed with organic substances. The tablet feed Denimar

contains organic substances, that can be used completely by the bacteria. The only waste product is CO2 .

The flow rate through the Sulphur -Nitratereductor is very slow. This is a main difference to other aquarium filters, where the water is often treated once per hour or even more often. The water in the Sulphur -Nitratereductor should have a retention time of 2-4 hours. It is however sufficient to treat it once per week. If

the filter is adjusted correctly, the water leaves the filter nearly free of nitrite and nitrate.

4. Description of the Sulphur -Nitratereductor

The Sulphur- Nitratereductor consists of a reaction vessel (1) of 2.3 l volume. To provide surface material for the bacteria, the filter is filled with Sulphur Beads and Hydrocarbonate. They create an ideal microclimate for denitrification.

To avoid dead zones, the water is recirculated internally in the Sulphur - Nitratereductor. A recirculation pump is placed in the top.

[Altantis]

Nobody using the Aqua Medic Sulphur - Nitratereductor 400

Upz...

[bloodlamb]

I just got one from HK. Have not activated it yet so cannot comment.

[Blenny]

Hi there, presume you have a nitrate problem that is why you are looking at this item. Why not consider hooking up an external fuge and grow some ulvas. In this way not only you have a more natural process, you also have additional nutritious natural food for your tangs.

Anyway I am also a AM fan and have full confidence that it will work for you. May want to consider the bigger unit incase you upgrade to a bigger tank.

[jervismun]

Bro Altantis, I already informed A.Mart, hopefully they will come to your rescue pretty soon... but do bear in mind that this setup will involve a lot more equipments... I think it requires a CO2 tank...

[Altantis]

Hi there, presume you have a nitrate problem that is why you are looking at this item. Why not consider hooking up an external fuge and grow some ulvas. In this way not only you have a more natural process, you also have additional nutritious natural food for your tangs.

Anyway I am also a AM fan and have full confidence that it will work for you. May want to consider the bigger unit incase you upgrade to a bigger tank.

Thanks for the comments Benny.

So ulvas can removed NO3? But I don't think so I can hook up a external Hang on Refugium

For the Denitrator, I only compare between the 2 as I do not have any space unless I start drill hole in my Fish Tank ###### Shoe cabinet... so the 400L series seems to be the best option for me.

P/S:

Comparing bith Aqua Medic product

1) Nitratereductor 400

2) Schwefelnitratreduktor SN 400 (Sulphur - Nitratereductor 400)

[Altantis]

Bro Altantis, I already informed A.Mart, hopefully they will come to your rescue pretty soon... but do bear in mind that this setup will involve a lot more equipments... I think it requires a CO2 tank...

Errr... then AM Nitrateredutor400 no need hoi

[acontia]

hi Altantis

iv'e been using this sulphur base denitrator for more then 2 years. it's running on series, meaning raw water enters the sulphur deni 400 first (the unit is completely filled with sulphur beads). it then enters to a another same unit filled with calcium carbonate. (calcium reactor 400) after that that the effulent is sucked into my beckett skimmer's pump intake for degasssing.

it's a good unit that does not need much tuning only during the fist few months when u're cycling the reactor. after which tuning is required only if nitrate starts to get out of whack. for me now i don't touch it at all and i've not test NO3 for months. just observing the tank for indication of algae bloom, if any. i stiil have hair algae growing on my overflow comb, but thats common. u might want to incorporate a refugium with chaeto for better results in No3 control. oh ya, my tank is 4.5x2.5x2.5 and my water change habit is about once every 4months(30%). it's a mix reef with 50% Sps 30%Lps 20% soft corals.

fish list

*clown surgeon

*Kole tang

*yellow tang

*purple tang

*sailfin tang

*powder blue

*5 anthias

*8 Blue green chromis

*4 yellow tail chromis

*3 talboti damsel ( ? spelling)

*1 starkii damsel

*1 sixline wrasse

*1 morish idol

*1 lamack angel

*1 bangai cardinal

feeding every day with pellets, 1-2 times a week with frozen mysis.

word of advice using this unit. go get a better valve for water control. those AM valve suck big time. they either leak or always gets choke. i've tried many ( MANY!! ) types of valve in the past and now i'm happy with Clamp valves. ( HnS use them for thier skimmer's air control ).

well.. thats it for my intro, PM me if u need more help on setting it up.

i'm charging by the hour so will free to contact

Cheers

[Altantis]

Acontia, So you charge to Aqua Medic right?

I think what you have is this (pix borrow from Bro Shootsimon) >>

[jervismun]

Wah quite convincing... makes me wanna jump ship already... my NR1000 been running for 4 weeks now, NO3 is still maintained at 10. Can't go lower than that Definitely the Sulphur based reactors are much more effective... bro Altantis, do consider carefully... but I suggest you get a quote first, coz this setup may involve a lot of equipments... now have to connect to your skimmer more degassing...

[Altantis]

Will faint. Think I might as well get pple to install everything...

[acontia]

Atlantis

i'm using the Sulphur base reactor SN400, with recirculation pump.

it runs in series with the CR400, with recirculation pump.

it's the same unit u have attached on your first post.

for those that want to use sulphur reactors, but do not want to spend

money buying those with recirculation pumps, IMO is asking for trouble ( smells really bad & clogs due to Bacteria Goo/film )

i've DIY flow through open system sulphur reactors and found them not effective.

perhaps used on smaller tanks with ligter bioload would be more ideal.

as for the effluent of the SR, u need to diy a drip counter for adjusting your sulphur drip rate, then only can u reconnect it to your skimmer intake. it's quite a simple device that many ppl can DIY. i use it on my CR effluent as well, it helps with degassing too. i don't send my CR (and will never ) effluent to my skimmers for fear of precipitation due to sudden change of PH from 6++ - 8++, this sudden change has been known to cause calcium to come out of solution, it turns back to calcium chalk. ( reference can be found on Sprung / Delbeek Vol 3 )

i'll post a pic of that drip device later for your reference.

Cheers.

PS: i'm so sorry to my 2 loving clowns that i left out in my fish list.

(skunky & Percky) i'm sure they'll never 4give me oh well...

[acontia]

jervismun

u can always remove your deni balls and fill it up with Sulphur beads and Calcium carbonate chips/aragonite. then u'll have a sulphur base dinitrater capable of supporting at least 6-8 ft tank.

i did think of using the CR 1000 / NR1000 for this purpose, but the unit too huge to fit into my already full cabinet. space is a commodity )

[acontia]

this r the pics i've mention.

[acontia]

another view of the drip device.

i use the green valve to regulate how much flow goes out of the device.

the left unit (SR effluent) top valve needs to be close off so that no air gets suck into the P skimmer pump, i can also regulate the bottom valve for better control.

the right unit (CR effluent) has it's top valve open Bcuz it just flows into the sump, adjusting the bottom valve ,i can increase or decrease the amount of air that gets suck in from the top valve for degassing, also by increasing the length of the tubing it should help increase PH from the effluent, although i don't test the PH, in theory it should help a little.

i hope the the pic can explain the set up. i can't explain into that detail of the workings,

by studying the pics it will give u a clue on it's workings.

have FUN

oh ya... theres a plastic hard tube in the bottle connecting down to base of the bottle

[acontia]

i hope this helps

[Jameshong]

Wow.. very chim.. !

Since NS400 need so many equipment to support , how about NitrateReductor 400?

Can it stand alone !

[jervismun]

Wow.. very chim.. !

Since NS400 need so many equipment to support , how about NitrateReductor 400?

Can it stand alone !

Nitratreductor 400 & 1000 is much simpler... the only thing you may wanna consider is a dosing pump. The Sulphur based denitrator is too complicated, smells like "rotten egg" due to high concentration of CO2 and risky as any negligence can cause total wipe out in your main tank (sulphur is toxic).

That's why I go for a NR1000 instead... but Sulphur-based is much more effective... no question about it

[iori_del]

agreed, the NR400 tat i use before is much more easy to use, just tune to 1-2 drop per second.

now changed to a Sulphur base, the PH is dropping like shit, sadly no CR to counter it, must keep topping up the PH.. Headache.

[acontia]

that's the reason y i think it's a must to send the effluent into skimmer for degass or at least neutralize % of acid produced.( i'm already using the CR400 for buffering ) well there's always pros N cons, just like using Ca reactor, u will get PH reading on the lower side 7.8 to 8.2. i've got another Ca reactor just for Ca N kh but yet i still need to buffer with bicarbonate several X a wk.

[KTLK]

The NR400/1000 can be as effective as the surphur conterpart but u must know the working concept behind it. I connect my NR1000 with a Mv meter & control the water inlet according to the ORP. The best value is -100 to -200mV & NO3 is always reduce to 0ppm. If u let it increase to more than -50mV or even positive,no NO3 will be reduce.If it falls below -300mV,all NO3 will be reduce & the bacteria start to use sulphate! The result will be having the so call fouling rotten egg smell-Hydrogensulfide.This explain why many units failed to work & many reefers gave up eventually. Without a mV meter,its very difficult to know the situation in the denitrator itself.

Its stated in the instruction book as: If u use denimar powder,increase the feeding if the mV increase too much (more than -50mV)

If u use deniballs,decrease the flow rate to between -100 to -200mV.

I nearly gave up this equipment but after hooking up with the mV meter,it works!

I'll add a pic to explain later

[Altantis]

Bro KTLK... thanks...waiting for pix to have a better understanding.

[KTLK]

The NR1000 connecting the mV meter