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Tapwater


Yaga
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I do regular topup from tapwater in my tank. I use seachem prime to get rid of chlorine and chromine. Leave the water in bucket for a few days before usage.

Wondering if it is effective if i soak one packet of carbon in the bucket of water to get rid of impurities?

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once the declorinator is added... u can use it almost instantly! there's no need to leave it for a few days...

i see no need to use carbon and rowa on the top up water since u already hav these in ur main tank... the amt of phosphates u r introducing in the water is so much negliable as compared to the food u introduce everyday ;)

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Heee;

Purest water is distill water, buy a distillation set from the chemical store in Balestier, cheaper than DI/RO unit. But take years and alot of gas to get i bucket...

Sorry notting to do at sat night.

Equipment:

30G Corner Tank with 10G Sump, 2 x 24W artinic T5, 1 x 24W 10K, 1x 24W 20K, 3" Grade 0 sand & Live rocks, Activated Carbon, Bio-home, 2 x Seio M620, Hailea 1/2HP Chiller, Redsea Pro Skimmer

Live Stock:

Turbo Snail x 1, Green Mandarin Dragonet X 2, Blue Tang X 2, True percular x 2, 1 x Algae Bleenie, Clarke clown x 2

Reef:

1 x 2" Blue maxima, Red/Brown/Purple Mushroom (Discosoma), Pink Ricordea yuma, A little colony Brown/Green common Zoanthus, Red/Pink/Green US Zoanthus, Eagle-eye Zoathus, 14 Branch Goniopora Pandoraensis, 1 Starburst Polyps, 3 + 2 Branch Frogspawn, 4 Blasto, palythoa, Cheato

RIPs (Since June 2005):

1. Sabae clown (KO by Clarke clown) 2. 1 branch melted frogspawn 4 branch 3. Golden maxima (Ripe the base off rock by me) 4. Algae Bleenie x 2 (Starvation) 5. Blue Maxima x 1, 2 x Maxima, 1 x frogspawn, rics (Overtemp...)

Old 30G Corner Tank.

Restarted 30G Corner Tank.

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I'm using tap water for top up too. Bought a RO/DI 4 stage only to find it too much of a hassle and can be very costly to operate since there will be a lot of water wastage (too much discharge as waste water).

So continue using tap water without much problem. Yes, need to do preparation beforehand for sure. But if you have solid equipments running in the tank, the tiny bit of impurities introduced during top up will not make any impact to the biotope.

However, if you are into 20% to 25% weekly water change, then have to take extra care. The impurities can be very significant. Preparation prior to that (to salt mix using tap water) can definitely help. I am thinking of getting another AM Photphatfiler and a small pump to do the job. Hang the Phosphafilter inside the bucket and let it run for 2 days before using the salt mix (make sure the salt lvl is right before putting in the Phosphatfilter).

I am thinking of filling the Phosphat filter with Antiphos (to remove Phosphate), Carbolite (Active Carbon) and HydroCarbon (to increase calcium lvl and as buffer).

The pump can also help circulate water inside the bucket for better salt mixing and increase dissolved oxygen.

What you guys think?

Note: The NO3 in tap water (Woodlands) is 5 to 10!!!

Pix: Phosphatfilter currently using in my main tank, 50% Antiphos + 50% Carbolit.

post-7-1146284363.jpg

Tank 60x40x40 Optiwhite Glass Tank Sump Elos 500 w/ Tunze Overflow Protein Skimmer Skimz Kone SK1 Return Pump Hydor Seltz L30 Wavemaker Hydor K1 Illumination 150W + 2 T5 Chiller Arctica 1/5hp w/ Aquabee 1000 Water Top-up Tunze Osmolator Dosing Pumps Grotech 3-Channels Calcium Reactor Deltec PF 501 Computer Aquatronica

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i use distlled water for top up and changing of water

50cent per 1.5 l bottle

I think nothing beats industry filter pure water

rather then using so many equipment and test kit and also

saving energy cost too lol

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Well, mi using DI water and Distilled water, brought my algae problem and nitrate problems down. No3 from 50-100 range to 0-5 now. Po4 undetectable. Its up to you eventually. but i do believe that S'pore water has too mush chemicals in it. the effects may not set in immediately but in the long run, the effects are bad.

If using tap water is good, then why are all the 'Old Birds' or Experienced reefers using DI/RO or Distilled water? SOme food for thought. :)

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Guys i think we are :off: for the moment...Of cos, RO/DI water is the best option... But my quarries were actually whether GAC in the bucket tapwater will be effective. That is to say if i will to test with a TDS meter between raw and GAC soaked water, will there be a difference.

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I think there would be a difference, as in my DI unit, there is Carbon in it. But most of the impurities are being removed by the Resin. From my limited knowledge, Carbon is used to remove chemical, not nitriate, po4 etc. Not really sure about this statement though.

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Oh shucks man. I've been topping up my tank with tap water, directly. May I have the exact details to buy distilled water?

(~ cci[RR]us ~)
A pair of Nemos :: Deep Sand Bed
Solite 2x24W T5 :: Prizm Skimmer with Overflow attachment

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:bow: Really respect you guys... can carry so much water... on the other hand, maybe buy from those that offer free delivery after certain amount, then let them deliver all the way and put it in your store room :bow:

For me, carrying bottles of water from mall is still too much a compromise to my lifestyle... and I am not built for that :lol:

Make sure you guys recycle the bottles, or send the 90 empty plastic bottles to somewhere... all this dump will eventually hurt the reef that surrounds Singapore/Indonesia... I'm sure you guys are aware of that :lol:

Tank 60x40x40 Optiwhite Glass Tank Sump Elos 500 w/ Tunze Overflow Protein Skimmer Skimz Kone SK1 Return Pump Hydor Seltz L30 Wavemaker Hydor K1 Illumination 150W + 2 T5 Chiller Arctica 1/5hp w/ Aquabee 1000 Water Top-up Tunze Osmolator Dosing Pumps Grotech 3-Channels Calcium Reactor Deltec PF 501 Computer Aquatronica

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in the long run, a DI system is a good investment. Search in the DIY forum and you can find DIY 3 stage DI systems for around S$100 or less. I made one and it works great.

GAC will not reduce TDS on its own.

Real reefs don't have glass bottoms....(...think about it)

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