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DESPERADO!!!!!!


beaver
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Hi All,

Fustration, fustration, fustration! I've been battling a losing battle right from the beginning. I used to have a fish-only tank and for about 1 year ago have been unsuccessfully trying to convert it to a reef tank. I don't know what kind of cesspool it became but volumious and copious water changes did not solve the problem. Hardy corals like mushrooms literally melted overnight! Simple zoos, yellow polpys, leather and other supposedly hardy corals simply can't survive. And I don't mean slowly wasting away. They simply didn't survive right from the go-get! I've tried almost everything. MANY water changes didn't help. I finally decided to tear down everything and re-started the tank. New gravel but I used back my old LR (could it be a reason?) and brand new water. I cycled it for > 1 month b4 I finally put in some new corals last Sun. Yellow polyps, clove coral, and a small colony of mushie (yuma).....well, guess what - yes, the yuma melted the next day, the clove coral (which was supposed to be hardy) shrunk so much (now there's mucous all over) and the yellow polyps..well, let's just say its on the way to the big tank above.....sigh....I am pulling my hair out as I write this. I don't know what is the problem

Water Parameter:

Nitrite - 0

Ammonia - 0

Nitrate - < 10ppm

Phosphate - extremely low

pH - 8.2 - 8.4

Temp - 26 - 28

Tank Specs:

3 X 2 X 2

IOS

Protein Skimmer (can't remember the brand)

MH lighting

Use of Rowapos

Use of Poly filter

CL450 Resun chiller

I am DESPERATE! I almost wanted to throw in the towel! I am contemplating to give up corals & just keep fish only (I know its not gonna be easy). It beats looking into an empty tank for so many months. I really don't have the heart to re-do it again.

PLEASEEEEE...can someone help! I don't even mind paying for professional help.

Regards,

Desperate Man :cry:

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did u ever dose medication into the fish-only tank? Eg Copper .....

I suspect possible reason cud be this...

Main Tank : 48 inch by 36 inch by 28 inch (2 sides starphire glass)
Sump Tank :
Return Pump :
Chiller : Starmax Compressor 1 HP Drop coil
Chiller Return Pump
Protein Skimmer :
Wave Maker :
Fluidised Reactor :

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Possible reasons;

1) previous fish keeping may tend to neglect the water quality and undesirable stuffs may get absorbed into the live rocks and thereafter slow release to the water. Your potential source (rocks) is leeching such.

2) remnants of medication used to treat fishes might be a cause.

3) Ionic imbalance of your water.

My Beautiful ANGEL - Matsushima Nanako

Equipment List for 4x2x2 Tank & 3x1.5x1.5 Sump

Hagen 802 x 2, Tunze 6060, Arcadia T5 (54W x 8), Eheim 1260 (return) Eheim 1250 (Chiller), Aquabee 300 x 2 (Feed)

H&S 150-F2001 (850l Skimmer), H&S A110-F2000 (400l Skimmer), H&S 110-F1000 (1000l Sulphur/Nitrate Filter), H&S 150-F2000IA (800l Calcium Reactor)

Coralife 3X (UV Steriliser), I-Aquatic IF 312 (Fluidised Reactor), Kent Kalk Delivery, Resun CL650, Pinpoint ORP & PH Meters & Wireless Thermometer

4x2x2 Tank Thread

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did u ever dose medication into the fish-only tank? Eg Copper .....

I suspect possible reason cud be this...

I second that. Could still have traces of copper in your tank if you did dose such medication when your tank only had fish.

Always something more important than fish.

http://reefbuilders.com/2012/03/08/sps-pico-reef/

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i suggest u do a thorough scrub for ur tank to remove all unwanted traces of "poisonous" elements within it.. do have enuff flow within ur tank as that is pretty important too.. u may want to look into ur LRs used as they have remained the similiar factors in all ur setups..

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what is ur tank salinity , specific gravity ?

copper and nitrate might just be the problem .

dont give up

2x1.5x1.5 tank

Lighting: AI hydra 52HD

Skimmer: Deltec SC 1455

Reactor: Minimax; rowaphos

Skimz  ; NP biopellets

Wave Maker: MP 40 WQD

Return pump: Eheim 1262

Chiller: Arctica 1/10 hp

 

A righteous man cares for the needs of his animal, but the kindest acts of the wicked are cruel -- Proverbs 12:10

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hey bro,

i saw your message and i know how exactly how you feel. Trust me...if things were easy you would probably won;t want to be in this hobby in the first place.

From all the messages above you could have noticed that there are many factors that could play a part to your tanks demise.

If you are going to change every parameter one by one, and notice that things still don;t work, you might potentially end up not having any hair on your head.

So unless you used a copper based medication for your previous FOWLR, just take it slow. Try adding one coral at a time. really. whatever "hardy" coral that you might get is still extremely sussceptible to elements such as copper.

Don't be discouraged by seeing many of the members here who seemingly make it like a walk in the park when they add corals and make them bloom instantly. They probably spent many hours tweaking things here and there. (thatz the part we tend not to see)

Also don;t be discouraged by newbies who seem to have "overnight" successes without a faintest idea about water chemistry. their tanks are like flower vases. The flowers will eventually wilt and you would have to replace their flowers.

just hang in there brother, and you would reap the fruits (or corals in this case) of your labour.....

jon

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Hi All,

Thanks all for your kind comments.

1) No copper medication in the tank b4 - in fact tested negative for copper

2) SG is 1.022 - 1.023

3) Nope, water pipe is not new

4) Not using carbon

4) What does it mean by ionic imbalance?

As mentioned, the water is totally new, so water parameters are within acceptable range. Nitrate is definitely not >10ppm...even if Nirate is higher, it couldn't kill the mushie overnight!

Short of re-starting again, what else should I do?

Regards,

Desperate Man

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When I first started the tank, it was a mixed coral & fish tank. I didn't have this problem b4. I am using a skimmer and 2 powerheads in the tank. I am using a overflow system. I am thankful for a your comments, but I am still puzzled as to the overnight melting of the mushie & the corals....Is there any service in LFS that conduct a full test of water? Or is that anyone who can provide a tank reset service?

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UV from MH can kill or melt a coral quickly. You can try not turning on the MH (except the T5 or other supplementary lights) for one day to see if your new purchased coral dies almost immediately.

Generally, Double Ended MH has this problem if the UV shield is not suitable, or the shield cracked. SE bulb may have the same problem too if the outer glass has cracked.

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Em... the UV problem is quite possible... check ur MH bro, maybe damaged or simply too old. I also suspect problems with your test kits. I usually keep 2 sets of kits (different brands) in case one fails... yeah get a LFS to test for you is a very good idea :)

Don't give up... u already have all the equipments... try not to flood them in the Pasar Malam section as it is already very flooded, lol. Good luck to you.

Tank 60x40x40 Optiwhite Glass Tank Sump Elos 500 w/ Tunze Overflow Protein Skimmer Skimz Kone SK1 Return Pump Hydor Seltz L30 Wavemaker Hydor K1 Illumination 150W + 2 T5 Chiller Arctica 1/5hp w/ Aquabee 1000 Water Top-up Tunze Osmolator Dosing Pumps Grotech 3-Channels Calcium Reactor Deltec PF 501 Computer Aquatronica

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UV from MH can kill or melt a coral quickly. You can try not turning on the MH (except the T5 or other supplementary lights) for one day to see if your new purchased coral dies almost immediately.

Generally, Double Ended MH has this problem if the UV shield is not suitable, or the shield cracked. SE bulb may have the same problem too if the outer glass has cracked.

Thanks Linkinpark & Jervismum! My MH bulb is pretty old actually...I didn't change the bulb since its inception in Aug 2002! Could that be the reason? Maybe I will change the bulb and leave the MH off for the 1st 2 days after coral introduction...keeping my fingers crossed. Will keep u guys updated...Thanks

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Bro... since 2002? Most MH can last around 1 year only, then must change already... you careful don't look into the lightbulb... the UV can also be harmful to your eyes and skin. Get rid of it asap.

Tank 60x40x40 Optiwhite Glass Tank Sump Elos 500 w/ Tunze Overflow Protein Skimmer Skimz Kone SK1 Return Pump Hydor Seltz L30 Wavemaker Hydor K1 Illumination 150W + 2 T5 Chiller Arctica 1/5hp w/ Aquabee 1000 Water Top-up Tunze Osmolator Dosing Pumps Grotech 3-Channels Calcium Reactor Deltec PF 501 Computer Aquatronica

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Bro... since 2002? Most MH can last around 1 year only, then must change already... you careful don't look into the lightbulb... the UV can also be harmful to your eyes and skin. Get rid of it asap.

The pitfall of old MH bulb is the shift in spectrum and drop in intensity.

The shift in spectrum will encourage undesirable algae to grow whereas the decline in intensity affect the par.

If the UV shield (built-in for SE and fixture for DE) is intact, the old bulb will not have UV leaks

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Bro I admire your determination but I think it is a case of impatience. Most of us would like to have an 'instant reef'. By your messages, I can see you have the basic knowledge of what needs to be done. Before treating your tank for anything, please be patient and think carefully through. Try to see what your tank has and doesn't have.Lots of observation helps. Might just be adding too much or incompatible LS. GO VERY SLOW.

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