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Aquamedic denitrator


jackal
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Bro Jackal

I see from your signature that u r using Macro AS350 as your skimmer. It may not be as efficient as other skimmers such as H&S. Maybe u can upgrade your skimmer to see if it solves your NO3 problem rather than to spend on the denitrator first? Thats just my opinion.. Experience reefers please correct me if I'm wrong.. :rolleyes:

:thanks:

4x1.5x2.3 home tank

6x2x2.3 office tank

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Bro Earth,

Do you mean tt if I upgrade my skimmer I dont have to buy the denitrator? Do u guys hv both skimmer n denitrator running together?

Yes skimming will reduce NO3. My QT is heavily skimmed by a airstone driven sander skimmer which gives me kopi o skimate. NO3 measures 15ppm.

My display tank is also skimmed but with a less efficient skimmer which produce little skimate. Result NO3 >100ppm. Of course the bioload also plays a part. 1 fish in QT and 6 fishes in display tank.

I am going to install my H&S soon hoping it will reduce the NO3 in my display tank.

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Saw Dymax denitrator today. Cost $165. Any review on this product?

Another question. Ive not seen any in action yet. Does all the brands of denitrator placed inside water or out hanging by the tank? Plse keep me inform cuz I noe nuts about this equipment.

Thanks

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Dear Guys who are considering using denitrators,

Please note that denitrators can be a little tricky to use. They need very slow but steady rate of output. (1ml p/sec) If too fast, you cannot get the nitrates out, if too slow you risk creating hydrogen sulphide in the reaction chamber and you will have a pungent, rotten egg smell. I've got this experience from using Aquamedic denitrators. You will need to read up on REDOX reaction to undertand, how denitrator works and how to get it to work continuously (again an issue coz it tends to clog at the output pipe as a jelly subcutaneous substance is the product of nitrate reduction). Remember too fast or too slow in the end output, will both lead to problems. In fact too slow is worst coz if can lead to LF death :(.. The best if you have an electronic metered dosing pump and can calibrate the flow ouput in a slow and steady manner. Incidently this does not come cheap. I have given up using on my denitrators. My recommendations to you all, if to find the cause of high nitrates.? and deal with them. Below are some recommendations.

1) Get a good protein skimmer

2) If your skimmer is not so good, make sure you have a good biological filtartion going

3) Lower the number of fish in your tank.

4) Feed sparingly. (once a day and not excessively)

5) MUST do 40% water change monthly at least

6) Clean all wool filters, etc weekly

7) Cultivate your bacteria - proper cycling the longer the better and build a good bacteria colony. Aerobic as well as anaerobic bacteria. Use Nitromax or Fritzyme.

8) Have plenty of live rock to act as host for bacteria.

9) Invest in an ORP meter. Learn of the dynamics of seawater REDOX reactions.

These recommendations will help maintain your tank to good nitrate levels. You will not need any denitartors at all. Remember no matter how powerful your skimmer is, there is no substitute in frequent water changes. I have seen systems that use quad-becketts fail due to high nitrates and six footer running on weipro 2011 thrive due to good maintenance and frequent water changes. My advice to newbies - get a good biological filtration going that is a product of good bacteria cultivation. Avoid expensivce and risky shortcuts like denitrators. Personally, they aint worth the trouble.

Cheers :)

(pm me if you are keen to buy my denitrator NR400 - selling cheap)

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Thanks for the gd info, Eudaceous. I have checkout more on this equipment and Im not getting it cuz its too expensive and it doesnt guarantee will solve problems. Presently Im doing regular water change every week or two, change wool filter, wash my skimmer cup every wk and top up the necessary supplements. I also just run another skimmer (my first skimmer) to supplement my present one. Enough to keep busy and workout those muscles.

The reason I pick up this hobby is to relax and enjoy the calming marine enviroment not to stress up with all these equipments. I will just maintain whatever I have even it not as beautiful as some display tanks.

Thanks guys for all your contributions. I post my tank pix soon for all to view once get my camera running.

cheers :peace::yeah:

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Personally I have achieved good results using aquamedic denitrator but I have to admit even using with the SP3000 dosing pump,I still battled very hard to get the desire flow. Even after getting the right flow,the denitrator often becomes ineffective when using together with an ozoniser,as ozone increase the redox of the water very much & this oppose the working concept of the denitrator itself. The water in it is enrich with O2 & therefore NO3 will not break down.

My advice to people who intend to use this equipment,its not a plug & play toy & be prepared to spend time adjusting the flow every now & then. Its also good to really understand how this equipment work by reading up regarding redox issues,how anaerobic bacteria consume nitrate in the absence of O2 etc

Its still a very good equipment imo when use correctly :)

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oh my tank had restar on 01/01/06. it had been runing for 2 month, which i had not yet change any water, as i runing on nr1000 with dosing pump, no3 reading is about 5 ppm,po4 is about 0 to 0.03. i can feed my fish as much as i like without worry my no3 will shoot up....why buy fishes and not let then eat.....why...why...?????

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The NR1000 is supporting my tank very well despite having 8 Tangs & 13 anthias and fy, 2 of the tangs are about 8 inchs in size.

Can you image during feeding time that these Tangs farted their "poo" like there is no tomorrow and despite 2 daily feeds of 12 mysis soaked with Garlic Guard with Spriulina, pearl, zooplan, phytoplan and cyclop, the NO3 is of a respectable level. ie between 10 to 20 depending when the test is done.

The NR1000 is easy to setup together with the SP3000 dosing pump and the output doesn't affects the pH unlike the sulphur based denitrator. But the Sulphur based one is alot more easier to install than the NR1000.

Having the output valve control dripping more than a drop per minute and with regular monthly mainteanance on theSP3000 dosing pump. the dosing pump will last for at least 14 months before changing the santoprene tube. Changed mine about 15 months of usage after visually see that the rotation is not even.

Just like what bro KTLK said, you need to understand how this equipment works and be very patience. Don't expect the equipment to give drastic reduced nitrate improvement overnite as it takes about 6 to 8 weeks depending on the setups for it to "kick-in".

Having said that, the most economical method is still partial water changes if your total system water capacity is less than 600 litres of water ie 10% is only 60L of water changes but won't be viable if you need to change a 100L of water.

Just my 3 cts today. ;)

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People Will Forget What You Said.

People Will Forget What You Did.

But People Will Never Forget,

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In short, if you can get an alternative pump to deliver 3l/h flowrate than it is not necessary to use a SP3000 dosing pump. ;)

If you tee-off from another source then how can you ensure that flowrate to the denitrator, right?

aquatronica7na.gif

People Will Forget What You Said.

People Will Forget What You Did.

But People Will Never Forget,

How You Make Them Feel.

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hi bro nim75sg,

thats true in a sense, but if you control the effluent rate with a check valve, will that not effectively limit the flow rate through the denitrator to what you wish it to be. i understand its not as consistent as with the employment of a dosing pump, but will that do for functionality?

thank you,

ian

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