ORP CONTROLLER & OZONE

[gods_angel77]

After reading the under-mention article, I’m thinking of playing with Ozone too but, before I play I need some help form the expert brothers out there.

First of all which ORP controller is better? Why? Please justify your answer

1) Milwaukee SMS510

2) Macro ORP controller the one selling at BIO Ocean

Secondly where can I buy a good ozone dosing pump?

Which brand is better I would sincerely appreciate if someone could give a price range of the various brands in the market and where to purchase it from

Thirdly I’m using an H&S skimmer model is 150-F2001.

I’m I right to say that I can just connect the ozone to the skimmer aqua bee air input hose & I’m game to play.

I understand that I need to run the OPR controller 2-3 days before I start dosing the ozone. :

Did I miss out any steps & are the above two steps sufficient for me. What else should I know huh

Lastly would like to thanks all the brothers in advance for helping me out.

This articel might be useful to read....

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It has long been recommended that ozone be used in marine tanks for many reasons including its ability to kill many pathogens and make the water crystal clear. Ozone (O3), which is an unstable form of oxygen, acts by oxidizing with (giving up an oxygen molecule to) anything that it comes in contact with. In laymen's terms, ozone acts as bleach and kills things like bacteria and viruses on contact. Not only does this bleaching action help reduce the pathogen load in a tank, but ozone also interacts with dissolved organics in a tank to make them less interactive so that they can easily be removed by a protein skimmer. This is why when the saltwater hobby was starting out forty years ago, the use of a protein skimmer coupled with an ozonizer was highly recommended. Fortunately we have come a long way since then. Those old ozonizers created ozone via an electric spark, much like lightning does. Newer ozonizers are now in a solid state and produce ozone through corona discharge technology where oxygen molecules pass over a specially designed light source to produce the ozone.

Ozonizers clean the water chemically by having this extra oxygen molecule interact with living material as well as with the by-products of metabolism. The relative cleanliness of the water can be measured by the reduction-oxidation (redox) potential of the water. In most healthy systems, this redox potential is usually between 300 - 350mV without the use of ozone. In order to measure the redox potential a special electronic monitor and probe needs to be used. With ozone, redox potential can easily be raised to 400 - 500mV. This higher level is closer to that seen in the waters surrounding a reef, where levels of dissolved organics are very low. This is why the fish seem to be suspended underwater. The same effect can be achieved in an aquarium with the use of ozone. The ozone removes much of the yellowing compounds that tend to accumulate in a reef tank over time. By intermittently using ozone the water can be kept crystal clear, even more so than can be achieved with the use of carbon.

Ozone does not need to be run constantly, but can be run for short periods of time once a month to keep a tank crystal clear or when the redox potential drops below a certain level. Ozone should also be utilized when a tank is being started and live rock is being cured to remove as much of the dissolved organics as possible. Ozone should also be run constantly when a disease breaks out. Ozone cannot affect the pathogens that are on the fish, but if any free-swimming pathogens come into contact with it in its reaction chamber or in the skimmer they will be killed. Ozone needs to be kept out of the tank as it bleaches any organic matter that it comes into contact with. It should either be bubbled into a protein skimmer or into its own reaction chamber. When it is in use, the water should then flow over carbon to keep any ozone from reaching the tank itself. If ozone does get into the tank it can cause bleaching of the gills of fish, so this needs to be avoided.

As noted above, ozone is highly interactive and as a result it needs to be used with special equipment. Any tubing that it passes through needs to be of silicon, which does not interact with ozone. If regular airline tubing is used, it will become hard and brittle quite quickly when exposed to ozone. Similarly, most plastics will become brittle and crack when exposed to ozone so be careful when choosing a vessel for introducing ozone. Ozone also breaks down quickly when exposed to high humidity so it is best to run the air going into the ozonizer through an air drier. This will dramatically increase the production of ozone.

As noted above, it is not necessary to run ozone constantly in any system. However, having ozone available when necessary is a worthwhile investment, especially when its use makes the tank so clear that the fish seem like they are suspended without any water around them.

Ozone and Ozonizers

by Mike Paletta

[gods_angel77]

WOW SO SAD SO FAR NOT EVEN ONE REPLY.

EVERYONE SLEEP ALREADY HUH?

HOPEFULLY CAN GET FEW REPLIES BY TOMORROW

[gods_angel77]

still noting not even a single respond

Maybe I put my question the wrong way.

Let me rephrase the question, anyone who have use ozone care to share they experience with us new reefer??

I believe most of us here would sincerely appreciate any useful information

[k0na_scab]

Hi,

some info to share .

Which controller of choice ? go for something not too hard on your wallet.

i'm currently using a china made controller, so far so good.

the more common ozonizers are, available frm LFS

Aquamedic - available from aquamart price unknown

Hailea - available frm Aquatic (sponsors forum) $*) look at yr keyboard

Dymax - avilable frm reborn price unkown

theres still many other option of choice ...

i believe theres a thread on this topic , use the search function

read up abit , if theres still any questions feel free to ask

~

[gift05]

i believe what you meant by "ozone dosing pump" is the ozonizer unit itself right?

if so,

1) connect ozonizer to the socket of ur ORP controller

2) connect the air hose of ur skimmer to the air outlet of ur ozonizer (make sure the parts of ur skimmer is ozone safe and use a silicon air hose)

3) set the desired ORP on ur controller (420-450, mine's at 400)

4) depending on brand and model, you'll see the LED on the unit to say its running and pumping ozone.

5) ensure you've got a bag of carbon in the same compartment of where the water in ur skimmer returns.

orp will increase slowly but steadily and soon you'll see the vast improvement in ur tank's clearity. from a slight distance away, your fish may even look like they're suspended cuz you can't really see the water.

you might wanna use a air dryer which you connect to the air intake of the ozonizer. fill it with silica gel beads and you'll significantly increase the ozone output esp in humid singapore. when the beads go from blue to pink, pop em in the toaster and toast till they go blue again. cool and and fill em back into the dryer and you're set for life.

HTH

[kueytoc]

i believe what you meant by "ozone dosing pump" is the ozonizer unit itself right?

if so,

1) connect ozonizer to the socket of ur ORP controller

2) connect the air hose of ur skimmer to the air outlet of ur ozonizer (make sure the parts of ur skimmer is ozone safe and use a silicon air hose)

3) set the desired ORP on ur controller (420-450, mine's at 400)

4) depending on brand and model, you'll see the LED on the unit to say its running and pumping ozone.

5) ensure you've got a bag of carbon in the same compartment of where the water in ur skimmer returns.

orp will increase slowly but steadily and soon you'll see the vast improvement in ur tank's clearity. from a slight distance away, your fish may even look like they're suspended cuz you can't really see the water.

you might wanna use a air dryer which you connect to the air intake of the ozonizer. fill it with silica gel beads and you'll significantly increase the ozone output esp in humid singapore. when the beads go from blue to pink, pop em in the toaster and toast till they go blue again. cool and and fill em back into the dryer and you're set for life.

HTH

Can you show us some pics of your entire Ozone setup ?

And also the connection to your skimmer.

Beginners like me will be able to understand & appreciate.

Thanks.../KT

[gods_angel77]

for the input and feedback gift05

Totally agree with kueytoc photos on the setup can really help to have a better understading.

Btw what brand of ORP & Ozone are u using Huh?

[gift05]

ok here are some photos i've just taken, hopefully i've managed to encompass everything that needs to be seen.

lets start with firstly with the ozonizer.

mine's a sander's 50mg/l.

2 air tubings.

one goes into that tube filled with beads. that tubes an air dryer and those are silica beads.

basically the flow of air is as follows

air from room---->enters the air dryer----> enters the ozonizer---->goes into the skimmer

no air pumps are needed cuz the air intake of the skimmer provides sufficeint suction.

the reason why the air dryer is used cuz moisture in the air lowers the efficiency of the ozonizer. the silica beads, once expanded, will turn pink. you can recharge them by toasting or baking till they turn blue again.

cost of air dryer $80 beads $5

[gift05]

the other end of the tubing connects to the air intake of my skimmer.

as follows

[gift05]

as you can see my skimmer has skimmed absolutely nothing yet cuz it has yet run in.

but with the ozonizer running, manage to keep ORP constant at 330

oh btw, the power to the sanders is connected to the ORP's socket. yes, the controller comes with 1 socket. so simply set the desired ORP value and everytime when the probe senses that the value has been reached, it'll cut the power to the ozonizer.

really simple.

[gift05]

oh great the pic's cut off....

[gods_angel77]

wow bro for the photos you have really put in the effort hope all the reefer out there have learn something i surely have a better understanding of the connection now.

How much did you bought your controller & ozone for and from where?

Any good lobang? Me keen to buy the same type as yours

[gift05]

controller i bought from a bulk order in arofanatics. if i'm not wrong. the model's PH 203. or smt along tt line.

the sanders i've got 2nd hand from another reefer. very very friendly guy heh

i relaly recommend it cuz there's no ozone leak and u won't screw up ur lungs