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DIY Kalkwasser Reactor


May&Bruce
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After having got fed up with mixing kalk every day and trying to get a suitable drip flow rate, I decided to build a kalk reactor with a top up tank, and a small dosing pump to dose the kalk.

My 5 foot reef tank loses a relatively constant 2 litres of water each day from evaporation and skimming. So I have sized the reactor and more importantly the top up tank, to run for 14 days without intervention.

Kalkwasser Reactor Basic Details

Refer to the attached drawing.

Pump continually mixes the kalkwasser in the lower half of the cylinder. The upper half is supersaturated clear kalkwasser, hence the lower half is cloudy whilst the upper half is clear.

Water from a top up tank enters the reactor at the bottom. The supersaturated kalkwasser exits the reactor at the top and goes to a small peristaltic dosing pump for automatic dosing into the sump (its on a timer to dose at night).

The volume of the reactor and the top up tank is such that kalkwasser will be dosed automatically for 2 weeks before the reactor needs more kalkwasser added and the top up tank needs to be filled up again.

Height: 48 cm

Diameter: 15 cm

Volume of kalkwasser: 8 litres (approx)

Kalkwasser Reactor Parts:

Acrylic tube (48 cm x 15 cm) S$32

Other acrylic sheet for base and top covers S$13

Pump: Hailea 6510 external pump S$25

Little valves & hose fittings S$30

Other bits such small tube, screws, etc. S$20 (guess)

Total S$120

Automatic Dosing:

Peristaltic dosing pump S$200

Time switch for pump S$19

In the photo next to the drawing, the kalkwasser at the top of the reactor is much clearer than the bottom but not clear enough as the reactor had only been running for a few hours when I took the pic. After a day or so of running it should go quite clear.

Kalk_Reactor.pdf

Real reefs don't have glass bottoms....(...think about it)

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Top of kalk reactor - i did not have the capability to cut nice round covers so I cut hexagonal. The little orange valve is to let all the air out of the cyclinder when filling it with water. The idea is to not let the mixed kalkwasser come into contact with air.

post-9-1132486722.jpg

Real reefs don't have glass bottoms....(...think about it)

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here is the peristaltic dosing pump. I ordered it online, but you can but from one or more of the sponsors of this site.

I have adjusted the pump speed to dose 2 litres over an 8 hour period at night.

post-9-1132486968.jpg

Real reefs don't have glass bottoms....(...think about it)

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This is a Mk 1 version. I would do things a little differently now that I have experimented with this one. E.g. since I have built this one, I have found a supply of the little hose fittings, valves etc.

Real reefs don't have glass bottoms....(...think about it)

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well, that's because it is the Mk 1 version. Mk II would use plastic, however, it is not really necessary as these metal ones are stainless steel and in any case the kalkwasser is largely fresh water, not salt water.

Real reefs don't have glass bottoms....(...think about it)

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Patrick

I use IPS #16 cement also from Dama. Its about $4 for a tube.

I dont have a router...you could try Homely Hardware - they often have power tools on special.

Real reefs don't have glass bottoms....(...think about it)

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nice DIY you have there, i think it is neat and workable :peace:

my worthless comments are: :lol::lol:

(As mentioned above) you might want to take note of the pump that mix the kalk & fresh water, I think regular maintenance might be needed.

My understanding is that your kalk top up is calculated based on tank water loss (evaporation + skimming rate) daily to derive the speed of the dosing pump, do take note on the total tank water loss, cos' evaporation might be also affected by other factors (wheather, equipment's heat, less/more skimming due to feeding, etc, etc) so you might not have a constant 2 litres at times and if kalk top up is contantly at 2 litres, over time maybe your SG might be effected?

I think the orange value is reduntant, the outflow tube from your kalk reactor should take care of the air. I have just started to use a kalk reactor & the air is being 'pushed' out of the reactor chamber from the outflow tube to the sump tank so i think you can less the value for your next version. :rolleyes:

overall, good work on your DIY ... if only i am as good a DIYer as you, I will also try to do a kalk reactor myself... :lol:

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Thanks Rocks

Yep, well every 2 weeks before I add new kalk powder I wash it out thoroughly.... there is still sludge in the bottom of the reactor that does not end up getting mixed.

The Mk II version (if I ever built it) will have the output outlet at the very top of the reactor - that way I would not need the valve to bleed off the air....ah well, that's what prototypes are all about!

Real reefs don't have glass bottoms....(...think about it)

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Hmm...concept looks similar to Precision Marine Kalkreactor...

My Beautiful ANGEL - Matsushima Nanako

Equipment List for 4x2x2 Tank & 3x1.5x1.5 Sump

Hagen 802 x 2, Tunze 6060, Arcadia T5 (54W x 8), Eheim 1260 (return) Eheim 1250 (Chiller), Aquabee 300 x 2 (Feed)

H&S 150-F2001 (850l Skimmer), H&S A110-F2000 (400l Skimmer), H&S 110-F1000 (1000l Sulphur/Nitrate Filter), H&S 150-F2000IA (800l Calcium Reactor)

Coralife 3X (UV Steriliser), I-Aquatic IF 312 (Fluidised Reactor), Kent Kalk Delivery, Resun CL650, Pinpoint ORP & PH Meters & Wireless Thermometer

4x2x2 Tank Thread

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Dunno about precision marine's kalk reactor, but if you do a google search for DIY kalk reactors you will come across several designs. I also looked at one out of Germany, which also looks similar.

Real reefs don't have glass bottoms....(...think about it)

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ok sorry for my ignorance ..

but i thought after mixing the KW with freshwater, it shouldnt stay longer than a day or 2 ? as it will lose its efficiency ? ie the concentration is not that high anymore.. i think is the CA+ ions .. not very sure bout the chemi thingy but i heard/read from somewhere.. it should be freshly mixed and drip

>>

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Thanks Ian!

Angmoh......I believe that it has to do with the kalkwasser reacting with air and thus turning into calcium carbonate and precipitating out. Most people simply mix the calcium hydroxide in a container open to the air, hence it does not last very long at all. The calcium reactor is selaed from the air and thus maintains a saturated calcium hydroxide solution for much longer.

Real reefs don't have glass bottoms....(...think about it)

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  • 3 weeks later...
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uyopong...simple...because it was easier for me to cut it with straight edges, using a jig saw, as I did not have a circle cutter big enough :D

Real reefs don't have glass bottoms....(...think about it)

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