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Cure for Ich/Parasite


Which method works for you?  

425 members have voted

  1. 1. Which method works for you?

    • Hypo
      43
    • Reef Safe medication
      32
    • Copper based medication
      31
    • Fresh water dip
      26
    • Others
      24
    • Let them fight it out...
      59


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i have an ich infection my desjardini purple majestic and red wrasse are all affected but today at last after 2 weeks they are now getting better i use aqua medic for the medicine and put jbl vitol into there food and also put garlic and also vitol into the frozen food and finally clip ah red algae for them to boost there immunity it helps for me proper nutrition and less stress for the fish is an effective method of preventing ich :)

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  • 1 year later...
  • SRC Member

i've read that it takes 3 weeks, 4 weeks on safe side for the itch parasite to die off. if lets say i waited it out, after 4 weeks, those weaker fish died and left those surving fish. does this means that there is no longer itch parasite left in the tank?

was talking to ML and was told that some reefer's tank have no itch for a few years. after intro of new fish, even after QT the itch came back again.

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Help! My fishes are dying from itch. Started with Tangs, lost half of them already. Lost all my Angles, only the Crownfish survived so far.....

From the survey, Hypo seem to be quite popular and effective. However I am unfamiliar with the treatment, so would appreciate some advice (read some of the relevant threads already but still abit confused).

1. The procedure is meant to be taken @ the tank itself? Mine is a 5 feet fowler tank & it is quite impossible to isolate the fishes.

2. To lower the salinity - is it correct to add fresh water and siphon out salt water?

3. After I reach the targeted salinity ie. 12-14 ppt (1.009), do I still continue with water change?

4. Read about the life cycle of parasite, how do I know when it is safe?

5. Can the parasite reside on non-fish eg. shrimp, crabs, etc.

6. Are alot of the seniors practicing freshwater dip when they purchase new fishes? Does it work?

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Help! My fishes are dying from itch. Started with Tangs, lost half of them already. Lost all my Angles, only the Crownfish survived so far.....

From the survey, Hypo seem to be quite popular and effective. However I am unfamiliar with the treatment, so would appreciate some advice (read some of the relevant threads already but still abit confused).

1. The procedure is meant to be taken @ the tank itself? Mine is a 5 feet fowler tank & it is quite impossible to isolate the fishes.

2. To lower the salinity - is it correct to add fresh water and siphon out salt water?

3. After I reach the targeted salinity ie. 12-14 ppt (1.009), do I still continue with water change?

4. Read about the life cycle of parasite, how do I know when it is safe?

5. Can the parasite reside on non-fish eg. shrimp, crabs, etc.

6. Are alot of the seniors practicing freshwater dip when they purchase new fishes? Does it work?

Quarantine is always a top priority, be it a fish or a coral. Needless to say, most reefers say they do not have the time/space.

Once they lose their livestocks without going through quarantine, it will be much more expensive than starting out with quarantine procedure in the first place.

Penny wise, Pound foolish :whistle

Since your tank is a FOWLR (make sure no invertebrates such as shrimps/starfishes/snails), you may do it in the main tank itself. Be sure to decrease the specific gravity by 0.001 every two/three days to ensure that the livestocks do not suffer from osmotic shock. Once you have reach at the specific gravity of 1.009 - 1.010 (I do not recommend to go any higher to compensate for evaporation), keep the specific gravity at that range for at best, 8 weeks (2 months) to ensure that the parasite, Cryptocaryon irritans, has fully cycled. It will take as fast as 1 week or as slow as 1 month for the parasite to complete it's cycle as it is dependent on the water temperature. Be sure not to add any fishes during the treatment or you will have to start counting from Day 1. Once 8 weeks has passed, you can slowly increase the specific gravity by 0.001 every three/four days to ensure that the fishes acclimatise fully. It is much tricky to increase the specific gravity rather than lowering as fishes are prone to suffer from osmotic shock while increasing specific gravity.

Most importantly, to maintain your specific gravity at the 1.009 - 1.010 range, I suggest you to employ an Auto Top Off device to maintain the tank specific gravity. For any period of time (few hours) that the tank specific gravity is out of this range, you may not have successfully carried out the treatment. I would also suggest that you use a refractometer to measure your specific gravity as any specific gravity higher than 1.010 may deem ineffective for Hyposalinity treatment. The parasite does not host on any non-fish, in this case, shrimps and crabs but they can't tolerate the treatment too.

P.S. Start counting from Day 1 only when your tank's specific gravity has reached 1.009 - 1.010

Hope this helps! :)

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i've read that it takes 3 weeks, 4 weeks on safe side for the itch parasite to die off. if lets say i waited it out, after 4 weeks, those weaker fish died and left those surving fish. does this means that there is no longer itch parasite left in the tank?

was talking to ML and was told that some reefer's tank have no itch for a few years. after intro of new fish, even after QT the itch came back again.

Hi Jo,

Honestly, I am not sure whether we can totally eradicate ich from our tank for its still unkown where ich comes from in the first place. Some experts claims that ich is a condition not available in the wild but in captivity.

Personally, there was a time where I struggled with ich, I have also tried many suggestions listed here. I find that ich no matter how will visit our fishes when the parameters are out or there is a new addition. Thus, my personal belief is that, "Ich is stress induced - if we remove stress and maintain a stable parameters, our fishes will be able to overcome ich".

HTH ;)

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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thanks goudian

beside water conditions and compatability. what else can we do? will the new uYOYO help?

haha

:rolleyes:

Beside the above 2, I believe the rest is up to individual observation of their individual tank's pecking orders, stress levels etc. Don't think there's any hard and fast rule.

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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  • 2 months later...
  • SRC Member
Beside the above 2, I believe the rest is up to individual observation of their individual tank's pecking orders, stress levels etc. Don't think there's any hard and fast rule.

Gouldian, I fully agree your point.... :paiseh: ..

Stress weaken the fishes to fight against ich..imo, if a stable tank is infected with ich after introduce new fishes..it will be good to dose some reef-safe medication pro-long the cycle and to allow "stressed" fishes to recover from the "shock" with aggression fish already in the tank <_<

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Hi everyone,

Perhaps that purchase of fish must be in pairs at least so that they will be less stress when seeing their own kind together in tank? just a thought

Cheers,

bgrking

That may be applicable for some cases. Just to share I am absolutely gusted few days ago when my lineatus pair died together on the day I bought :cry2::cry2::cry2:

Guess luck is very important sometimes

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That may be applicable for some cases. Just to share I am absolutely gusted few days ago when my lineatus pair died together on the day I bought :cry2::cry2::cry2:

Guess luck is very important sometimes

tts sad.. it gotta cost u a bomb, how much u paid for the pair?

any idea why it died?

shock? or agression?

If a man could beat his own fantasy. Then to only breed in captivity. Then its pointless.

Genesis 1:20

And God said, Let the waters bring forth abundantly the moving creature that has life, and fowl that may fly above the earth in the open firmament of heaven. And God created great whales, and every living creature that moves, which the waters brought forth abundantly, after their kind, and every winged fowl after his kind: and God saw that it was good. And God blessed them, saying, Be fruitful, and multiply, and fill the waters in the seas, and let fowl multiply in the earth. And the evening and the morning were the fifth day.

|| Tank: 78" x 30" x 30" || Sump: 48" x 22" x 20" || Lights: PowerModule 10 X 80W|| Returns: 2 x HF32 ||

|| Skimmer: BubbleKing Supermarin 300 || Wavemaker: 3 x 6100 & 1 x 6200, 2 x Wavebox 6212, WavySea ||

|| FR: 2 x FR150 || NR: Sulphur Denitrator || CR: RM Custom Made 8" || KR: Deltec KM500 || TopUp: Tunze Osmolator 3155 ||

|| UV: Coralife 12X 36W || Ozonizer: Sanders C200|| Controller: GHL Profilux Plus II Ex ||

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Dr Bassler food plus a 36w jebo uv works for me, my 2 mini blue tangs was down with ich, very bad case almost like blue dalmation, lucky they were still feeding , took the food for 2 continous days and i already notice a reduction on the spots by the 4th day all spots gone. definately recommend Dr bassler food

Mix Reef Tank: 5ft x 2.5ft x 2ft mixed reef

Chiller: daikin 1hp compressor

Return: Red Dragon 6.5m3

Lighting: Aqua Lumen Ocean 4ft

Skimmer: Reef Octopus RO-RPS-5000-EXT w/ Bubble Blaster

CR: RM 824 /milwakee PH controller

Tunze TS24 with 7096

Tunze Osmolator

American Pinpoint PH monitor

American Pinpoint ORP Monitor with Resun Ozone

RM sulphur denitrator

RM FR 424

RM FR 624

TLF Phosban Reactor

My old tank thread

469748_10150741487628605_529506809_o_zps36d5c396.jpg

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Hi Law, I dont think it is shock as I placed both in the betta box with plans to release them into the tank later in the day. I got it for a rather good price B) but then.... :cry:

Perhaps we should really be patient and wait for fishes to feed at LFS before purchases....but then again the fishes will be gone :eyeblur:

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once i had experiences with my common clownfish with white spot, i tried to fight it with fresh water dip, in a day when the white spot is serious, it got better after the fresh water dip, this goes on and off and it cant get rid completely.....till one day, i use a freshwater fish keepin knowledges....that is placing heater stick when my freshwater fishes got white spot....which will rid the white spot.

So i took my clown fish and i dip into fresh warm water, and till now white spot is completely gone.

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  • 3 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • SRC Member

hmm, but wad i cant understand is, how come fishes their ich on and off one? it seems like it will nv go off?

at times, i see ich in the morning, thn no ich in the evening. or sometimes the other way round.

usually it happens once/twice in a week.

any1 experience this?

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  • 3 weeks later...
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recently i bought a blue tang from shop, after release it to tank i found out it got white spot, but will it affect other fishes .i try to catch him but cant.

will the white spot go away, living him in the tank will worsen water condition? pls help. :thanks:

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  • 1 month later...
  • Senior Reefer

Ich is stressed induced. Ich is indirectly intertwined with stress and immunity. If the fish is stress, immunity goes down, ich over takes. For me, the best way is to prevent, and to maintain an ich free environment. It is very hard, i myself have failed many times, but it is the best way to prevent ich. Good nutrition is also key. Make sure that u feed your fishes a very wide range of food, to boost their immune system. I feed my fish pellet, fresh prawns, henry formula, mysis shrimp, and nori seaweed. A little bit of everything a day.

Occasionally, my fish will get abit of white spots. I do believe that a tank with seemingy heathy fish, does not mean ur tank is free from white spots. Sometimes, white spots are there, just that u cannot see it, because it is below symptomatic levels. Meaning that the fish is abe to contain the disease and fight it off naturally with its own immune system. That is why good nutrition is so important. I believe that if the white spots are below symptomatic levels, or it is very mild, the fish will be able to fend for itself. Human intervention often stress fish out even more and this ultimately leads to death. In fact, by dosing medicine A, B, C, we sometimes stress the fish so much until the disease from very mild, become very severe. And when the fish dies, we try to blame it on the medicine, or that the disease killed it. Sometimes, all it takes is patience and a little trust that ur fishes can fight their own battles. I try not to "kachiow" the fish as much as possible, unless the disease really is very severe, and almost impossible for the fish to fight off itself, then i go there and treat. Otherwise, with good nutrition and proper parameters, it is usually not fatal for fishes if a little bit of white spots show. they will fight it off themselves.

NOTE: this is my own personal experience, everyone has different methods for curing ich.

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