Most of my acros are green

[madmac]

This was pink-cream colour, today is all green with light-blue growth tips

[madmac]

This pic is shown exactly as bought... today, it dark greenish blue... more towards the green side... yet another green to the collection.

[madmac]

finally, an acro thats suppose to be purple, but somehow turn green overtime

[riot]

Madmac,

is that a hairy crab in your pink cream colony?

[weileong]

How come all 80% all brown one?

[madmac]

Riot, yes it is... removed leow

WL, brown... if you're referring to the others in the background, the pics are taken abt 1 yr back...then, there were lots of reasons, not enough lighting, high NO3/PO4, not enough flow, poor husbandry skills, unstable and inconsistent parameters... pls I'm sure you can add to the list.

Seldom am able to make it jus when shipment arrives, so simply go when I'm free and take whats left... besides not much experience, so better experiment with cheaper ones while I can, its ok by me... also haven't made enough friends here to swap/share frags(hint..hint, wink wink)... have a 'small' family to run + no maid.

I'm having difficulty setting up the old cam for a good shot of those acros as of their current state, to reflect what I see... but I will.

As RAV says, they could be green to begin with... so thast why I posted some to show that I didn't buy them green... the bought green ones remained faithfully green.

I'm thinking of removing one actinic t5 and have that replaced with more lower K bulbs like in 3:1...hope to see colour morph in the last two acros to its original colour.

[FuEl]

Hmm..talking about green acroporas not sure if this might be of interest. Once upon a time under 10,000K ATI T5s. This acropora was originally all cream. Then it got half cream and half green until I took down my tank.. Weird is'nt it?

[weileong]

Like those people post in the RC thread, it has to do with nutrients and high ratio of actinic lighting used so why don't you look into these two factors and try to fix it?

I would look at nutrients first you can judge from how clean your tank's front glass is, how often do you need to clean it to keep it looking like you have just clean it?

My tank (undetectable PO4 with hanna) could go by two weeks without cleaning the front glass and it'll appear sparking clean as if it is just clean few mins ago. I noticed that has direct relation to the PO4 reading. When my PO4 (nutrients) readings are higher then I find that the cleaning intervals are more frequent. When my PO4 levels are 0.06 ppm (hanna) I need to clean the glass every 2-3days.

Maybe now since you got rid of your canister, the situation will improve so keep us updated.

[monsterz1975]

Like those people post in the RC thread, it has to do with nutrients and high ratio of actinic lighting used so why don't you look into these two factors and try to fix it?

I would look at nutrients first you can judge from how clean your tank's front glass is, how often do you need to clean it to keep it looking like you have just clean it?

My tank (undetectable PO4 with hanna) could go by two weeks without cleaning the front glass and it'll appear sparking clean as if it is just clean few mins ago. I noticed that has direct relation to the PO4 reading. When my PO4 (nutrients) readings are higher then I find that the cleaning intervals are more frequent. When my PO4 levels are 0.06 ppm (hanna) I need to clean the glass every 2-3days.

Maybe now since you got rid of your canister, the situation will improve so keep us updated.

Bro how u manage to keep it at that level , can give some tips.?

[weileong]

Basically a lot of work involved.

I had to removed my DSB which was acting as a huge nutrient sink. With the DSB the PO4 reading always hovers around 0.06ppm.

I had a tunze 6080 at the bottom prevent detritus from setting down. All my base rocks are lift off the bottom so there is not dead spot in those unaccessable area. This either keeps the detritus suspended so the skimmer can take care of them or collect the detritus at one corner in the tank where i can siphon them out weekly.

Weekly water changes with RO/DI water.

The zeovit stuffs this had help kept the nutrients low too but it must be applied correctly else you don't see the full potential.

Basically I find that as long as you keep the tank clean then the nutrients will not be a problem for you.

[monsterz1975]

Basically a lot of work involved.

I had to removed my DSB which was acting as a huge nutrient sink. With the DSB the PO4 reading always hovers around 0.06ppm.

I had a tunze 6080 at the bottom prevent detritus from setting down. All my base rocks are lift off the bottom so there is not dead spot in those unaccessable area. This either keeps the detritus suspended so the skimmer can take care of them or collect the detritus at one corner in the tank where i can siphon them out weekly.

Weekly water changes with RO/DI water.

The zeovit stuffs this had help kept the nutrients low too but it must be applied correctly else you don't see the full potential.

Basically I find that as long as you keep the tank clean then the nutrients will not be a problem for you.

Thanks for the tips.

[madmac]

Like those people post in the RC thread, it has to do with nutrients and high ratio of actinic lighting used so why don't you look into these two factors and try to fix it?

I would look at nutrients first you can judge from how clean your tank's front glass is, how often do you need to clean it to keep it looking like you have just clean it?

My tank (undetectable PO4 with hanna) could go by two weeks without cleaning the front glass and it'll appear sparking clean as if it is just clean few mins ago. I noticed that has direct relation to the PO4 reading. When my PO4 (nutrients) readings are higher then I find that the cleaning intervals are more frequent. When my PO4 levels are 0.06 ppm (hanna) I need to clean the glass every 2-3days.

Maybe now since you got rid of your canister, the situation will improve so keep us updated.

removing one or both will help

WL, thx... you know which one I'm gonna to fix first... the easiest would be to reduce the actinic ratio from currently 2 20kks/ 2 actinic to 3 11ks/1 actinic.

prior to this recent change.. its 4 days to clean once.

The canisters were clean... the cyano problem came from the rocks that weren't cook... they leach PO4, which the cyano took in together with N2 which they can fix from the atmosphere/water/(denitrification from the rocks).. this explains why no cyano on the glass panels. The cyano creates an environment for itself to grow better, they layer the rocks, trapping dirt, making it more anaerobic.. hence the N2 + po4+ some light = cyano

Not trying to promote the use of canisters here, jus saying they weren't the issue to the green-ness of the SPS... I kinda think its worth experimenting with less actinic first while keeping the rest the same.

[madmac]

Hmm..talking about green acroporas not sure if this might be of interest. Once upon a time under 10,000K ATI T5s. This acropora was originally all cream. Then it got half cream and half green until I took down my tank.. Weird is'nt it?

Thats very interesting... and it goes to show the quote by Bomber can be true... once the greens zoos establish themselves... they become difficult to remove... i.e. it may be green forever, even after whats done to rectify its probable cause

I've never seen a coral completely go back after it's got it though.

[weileong]

Judging from the frequency of needing to clean the glass, your PO4 could be in the region of 0.06ppm which might also explain the cyano.

Somemore you used NSW for water change which would have certain amount of PO4 in it. The seawater around us are just way too polluted

Couple with the fact that you used weipro which is not so aggressive in skimming so that could be why you could not battle the cyano.

If I were you, I'll try to fix both but seems you already done so by cooking your rocks etc. Keep us updated, maybe it's gonna take a while to see the effects.