RAV-65's Reef Haven...

[Reefaholic]

Izit?? I thought there's a pump below to push water in?? like some kind of closed-loop??

Oh,

2 purposes. To circulate and to do water change.

[Reefaholic]

I hope you consider your durso pipes are accessible. Just in case you need to do something.

[RAV-65]

Good idea on the external durso.

Take up quite alot of space if inside and because the holes are not located at bottom of the overflow box, there less chance of leakage.

Looking good so far!

Heh heh...

Thankfully, the tank-maker got some tricks up his sleeve, so he can chip in good ideas along the way...

Dat's why I chose him as my tank-maker... not just those who builds wat you wan and doesn't chip in ideas so that he doesn't have to do so much!

My tank-maker been pretty helpful and seem to "go the extra mile" so far...

Very patient with me too!

[RAV-65]

I hope you consider your durso pipes are accessible. Just in case you need to do something.

Bro,

the dursos are at the sides leh... accessing no problem wat...

[daimy068]

Heh heh...

Thankfully, the tank-maker got some tricks up his sleeve, so he can chip in good ideas along the way...

Dat's why I chose him as my tank-maker... not just those who builds wat you wan and doesn't chip in ideas so that he doesn't have to do so much!

My tank-maker been pretty helpful and seem to "go the extra mile" so far...

Very patient with me too!

LOL! Especially the 'Very patient with me too! ' part!

[Reefaholic]

Bro,

the dursos are at the sides leh... accessing no problem wat...

I see, so no walls on the side blocking. Then should be ok.

BTW, better calculate your pump flow and the size of your sump. Just in case electricity trip..... Sump overflow. I hope your tank maker can do that calculation for you.

Just 1 last contribution. Since you are doing a water draining for water change. (I do not know how your drain pipe run to). Put a overflow pipe in your sump to drain off excess water in case of electricity trip.

[RAV-65]

Oh,

2 purposes. To circulate and to do water change.

Bro,

got pic to show how the pipings are run??? maybe I can copy an idea or 2??

[hamannbmw]

bro, some suggestion..... since u have a viewing area of 60", why not hide the tunzes.... (not much light, lesser algae).. with 4 tunze running, u will achieve more flow... and run 2 return lar...... dun need 3 lar.... jus my suggestion...simple drawing here

[RAV-65]

I see, so no walls on the side blocking. Then should be ok.

BTW, better calculate your pump flow and the size of your sump. Just in case electricity trip..... Sump overflow. I hope your tank maker can do that calculation for you.

Just 1 last contribution. Since you are doing a water draining for water change. (I do not know how your drain pipe run to). Put a overflow pipe in your sump to drain off excess water in case of electricity trip.

Wah! Good idea... but my drain pipe for water change comes from the main-tank... (seem to be missing from my 2nd tank drawing... ) I cant drain from my sump as the water needs to be drained via the washing basin I'm building at the side of the tank...

This washing basin is specially connected all the way from the kitchen to my tank area...

[RAV-65]

bro, some suggestion..... since u have a viewing area of 60", why not hide the tunzes.... (not much light, lesser algae).. with 4 tunze running, u will achieve more flow... and run 2 return lar...... dun need 3 lar.... jus my suggestion...simple drawing here

Bro,

correct me if I'm wrong.... with the tunzes in such tight corners where 3 sides are blocked, will it start ###### alot of air?? Normally pumps placed in corners where there are 2 sides blocked already have the tendency where the water on top of the pump "spirals" and air is sucked into the pump, releasing sliced air-bubbles into the main tank.

Also, using 3 return pumps coz 2 are MX100 to provide at least about 12,000LPH exchange from the main tank to the sump. Running another return pump to go through the chiller coz the chiller pump cant be too strong mah... so decided to use a MD40, so that total exchange between the tank and sump can hit about 15,000LPH or about 14-15x exchange per hour.

[Reefaholic]

Wah! Good idea... but my drain pipe for water change comes from the main-tank... (seem to be missing from my 2nd tank drawing... ) I cant drain from my sump as the water needs to be drained via the washing basin I'm building at the side of the tank...

This washing basin is specially connected all the way from the kitchen to my tank area...

Connect the main tank drain pipe and link to the drain pipe of your sump thus give you a main drain pipe. This also can be connected to your washing basin pipe (underneath your basin) which lead to your floor trap. Save alot of trouble doing water change.

[Reefaholic]

Bro,

correct me if I'm wrong.... with the tunzes in such tight corners where 3 sides are blocked, will it start ###### alot of air?? Normally pumps placed in corners where there are 2 sides blocked already have the tendency where the water on top of the pump "spirals" and air is sucked into the pump, releasing sliced air-bubbles into the main tank.

Also, using 3 return pumps coz 2 are MX100 to provide at least about 12,000LPH exchange from the main tank to the sump. Running another return pump to go through the chiller coz the chiller pump cant be too strong mah... so decided to use a MD40, so that total exchange between the tank and sump can hit about 15,000LPH or about 14-15x exchange per hour.

Yes, i believe tunze will suck in air and produce bubbles. unless you want to hide it inside your overflow box. Thus all eyesore tunzes will be covered.

BTW your return pumps are too big, i hope you consider your sump ability to hold the water in case backflow. You may also use 1-way check valve, but again flow will be restricted. I dont know whether this will have impact if you using pressurated pumps.

[RAV-65]

Connect the main tank drain pipe and link to the drain pipe of your sump thus give you a main drain pipe. This also can be connected to your washing basin pipe (underneath your basin) which lead to your floor trap. Save alot of trouble doing water change.

Okie okie... got it!!

Another good idea for my tank today...

Thanxs bro!

[RAV-65]

BTW your return pumps are too big, i hope you consider your sump ability to hold the water in case backflow. You may also use 1-way check valve, but again flow will be restricted. I dont know whether this will have impact if you using pressurated pumps.

Currently, the sump has the capability to hold about 120L of water in the event of a power shutdown... estimated volume of water back-flowing from the skimmer about 50L... enough?

Did I miss out anything??

[daimy068]

Currently, the sump has the capability to hold about 120L of water in the event of a power shutdown... estimated volume of water back-flowing from the skimmer about 50L... enough?

Did I miss out anything??

Seems good enough. Not like me...when doing system run, the backflow from tank raised the water level in the sump til abt 1" from top.

That's why changed to a bigger, taller sump. Now with backflow, still got additional 6"+ ht to the brim.

[Reefaholic]

Currently, the sump has the capability to hold about 120L of water in the event of a power shutdown... estimated volume of water back-flowing from the skimmer about 50L... enough?

Did I miss out anything??

Hmm.. I presumed your return pipes are on top of your tank. So do some calculation on the volume of water that your pipe (submerged under the water, i.e. different in height) drawn during backflow. That volume + 50L(from your skimmer) = total volume of your sump (Remember to minus of the water that are running during normal operation!!!) This will tell you whether your additional water that go into your sump during electricity trip will not overflow (i.e. total = 120L)

Hope you understand what i meant.

[weileong]

You need to take into consideration the linear length of your overflow box (with the comb taken into consideration). You going to use very high return flow so that will cause the water level in the main tank to raise beyong the height of the overflow. This adds on to the backflow into the sump as well.

[RAV-65]

Seems good enough. Not like me...when doing system run, the backflow from tank raised the water level in the sump til abt 1" from top.

That's why changed to a bigger, taller sump. Now with backflow, still got additional 6"+ ht to the brim.

Wah... changed sump??

didn't know that... too long never see your tank thread...

[RAV-65]

Reefaholic & WL : I understand what the both of you mean... now I'm paranoid again... do I need to increase the height of my sump by another 2-3 inch??

Guess better do another assessment of the extra volume the sump can hold, just to make sure...

[Reefaholic]

Reefaholic & WL : I understand what the both of you mean... now I'm paranoid again... do I need to increase the height of my sump by another 2-3 inch??

Guess better do another assessment of the extra volume the sump can hold, just to make sure...

Well, alot of people miscalculated the size of sump (including me). And tank maker normally do not know it or unaware of it because you buying your own equipment. They normally guess or presume. Hence many have overflow problem during power tripped.

Even with those info you have, it may not be accurate (length/dia of pipes, volume of alll pipes also contain water during normal operation).

That is why i suggest you include a drainage pipe in the sump for overflow if you can connect to the floor trap. Just to be safe and keep your floor dry.

[weileong]

Vincent, allocate about 3" of the main tank volume in height for the main tank's back flow should be very very safe already.

Then factor in for other equipments like skimmer should be quite safe.

[hamannbmw]

agree agreed.... didnt thought of that also... Its true where a small compartment holding tunzes might have air being suck in... even my tank now has it though its open concept, especially tunzes facing directly.

[RAV-65]

Well, alot of people miscalculated the size of sump (including me). And tank maker normally do not know it or unaware of it because you buying your own equipment. They normally guess or presume. Hence many have overflow problem during power tripped.

Even with those info you have, it may not be accurate (length/dia of pipes, volume of alll pipes also contain water during normal operation).

That is why i suggest you include a drainage pipe in the sump for overflow if you can connect to the floor trap. Just to be safe and keep your floor dry.

Thanxs bro... will definitely try looking into the drain pipe... sounds like th best bet!

[RAV-65]

Vincent, allocate about 3" of the main tank volume in height for the main tank's back flow should be very very safe already.

Then factor in for other equipments like skimmer should be quite safe.

Actually, when I planned the sump... I was pretty wary of the overflow problem... but was more focused on the skimmer... now dat u guys mentioned, the water in the pipe, the overflow, the water flowing "over" the comb etc etc... I tink I better be more cautious and double check again...

Thanxs for the reminder!

[RAV-65]

agree agreed.... didnt thought of that also... Its true where a small compartment holding tunzes might have air being suck in... even my tank now has it though its open concept, especially tunzes facing directly.

Heng ah...

u and Danano already sent me back to my drawing board once.... can't let you do it again!!!