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Any idea how to reduce NO3? Looking at my water condition not possible to keep any reef right. Wonder when will i be able reach the stage like you all

Don't worry about NO3 now. It should'nt be the top of your priority list. Get the most basic water parameters stable first. What I'm referring to is accurate salinity (get a refractometer), pH, kH and when you're ready Ca and Mg levels if you are planning to keep hard corals. Not to forget phosphate, reduce it in the beginning by not overfeeding and improving your skimming. Phosphate kills more stuff compared to nitrates. Even 100ppm of nitrates won't kill fish. I kept the so called sensitive blood shrimp in 50ppm nitrate waters (Salifert test kit) for months and it grew and moulted well. What you should do now is to get accurate test kits (Salifert is a good brand). The one you should get first right now is for kH. kH levels between 8-10 generally will minimize pH swings which is common in marine aquaria. You mentioned not changing water for some time..I won't be surprised if your kH is 5-6 (personal experience).

Do take into consideration the other points iantoh mentioned. Will save you lots of $. Cheers

Always something more important than fish.

http://reefbuilders.com/2012/03/08/sps-pico-reef/

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The best ways to maintain low levels of phosphate in normal aquaria are to incorporate some combination of phosphate export mechanisms, such as growing and harvesting macroalgae or other rapidly growing organisms, using foods without excessive phosphate, skimming, using limewater, and using phosphate binding media, especially those that are iron-based (which are always brown or black)

------- from www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php

How to

1) growing and harvesting macroalgae? where to get this macroalgae?

2) using limewater? How?

3) phosphate binding media? -- the reactors? heard lot of these reactors

thanks

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The best ways to maintain low levels of phosphate in normal aquaria are to incorporate some combination of phosphate export mechanisms, such as growing and harvesting macroalgae or other rapidly growing organisms, using foods without excessive phosphate, skimming, using limewater, and using phosphate binding media, especially those that are iron-based (which are always brown or black)

------- from www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php

How to

1) growing and harvesting macroalgae? where to get this macroalgae?

2) using limewater? How?

3) phosphate binding media? -- the reactors? heard lot of these reactors

thanks

1) Macro Algae. You can PM Blueheaven, he is the Chaetomorpha farmer, he should be able to sell you some from the recent harvest.

2) Lime water = Kalkwasser. Kalkwasser cannot be pour into the tank. You need to drip it slowly into your tank at lights off. First mix Kalkwasser with dechorinated tap water and let it settle, drip only the clear top solution into your tank.

Kalk dripper can be DIYed by insering a Plastic Air Valve 1 inch from the bottom into a Plastic Container (Soft Drink Bottle).

3) Phosphate Medias = Rowaphos, Purephos, Elimphos, BioPhosII etc. They work best in a Fluidised Reactor. If you dun have a FR, can try Poly Filter Wool.

HTH ;)

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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1) For Macro Algae do i need a Refugium? - how to keep them?

2) Kalkwasser - how much of dechorinated tap water to mix with Kalkwasser, how much drop per day?

3) How does Poly Filter Wool look like? Where to get them? Does it work like normal mechnical filter?

which is easiler to do?

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1) For Macro Algae do i need a Refugium? - how to keep them?

2) Kalkwasser - how much of dechorinated tap water to mix with Kalkwasser, how much drop per day?

3) How does Poly Filter Wool look like? Where to get them? Does it work like normal mechnical filter?

which is easiler to do?

1) For macroalgae, it is preferable to grow them in a refugium in a reserve photo-period as your main tank. This will maintain proper pH during the lights off period in your main tank which will lower pH.

2) Different system have different demands of Ca & kH, as such you need to do some form of tesing to determine your Ca & kH consumption and devise your dosing to meet the demands. Most reefers in Singapore start by mixing 1 tsp with 1.25l pet bottle of dechorinated tap water. The amount to drip depends of your test results of the tank consumption.

3) Poly Filter looks like a plain piece of wool, just that it have been sepcially manufactured to removes harmful organic and various inorganic waste build-ups. You can get them in Sealife and Reborn. Please do note that Poly Filter does not directly absorbs Phosphates like the phosphates medias thus it is only used as an alternative if you dun have a FR. More info on Poly Filter

HTH ;)

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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So option 1 is out, i no have refugium.

2) What the link between phosphate with Ca & kH? Thought want to reduce phosphate measure phosphate good enough :(

Now another parameter to take care of (Ca & kH)

3) How much does this Poly Filter cost. Use for how long before replacement?

thanks

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So option 1 is out, i no have refugium.

2) What the link between phosphate with Ca & kH? Thought want to reduce phosphate measure phosphate good enough :(

Now another parameter to take care of (Ca & kH)

3) How much does this Poly Filter cost. Use for how long before replacement?

thanks

Well it depends on the livestocks you intend to keep. If you are thinking FOWLR, then you will not be very concern with phosphate as compared to if you intend to have SPS.

Ca and kH are the basic parameters you need to maintain together with ANN (Ammonia, Nitrite & Nitrate).

Thus, I suggest you start with the basic parameters first. ;)

By the way, if you are dripping Kalkwasser, there have be reseach that prove Kalkwasser percipitate Phosphate and in term Phosphate will be skim out by skimmer. Thus I feel that Kalk is one good additives for a start.

Herewith are some links for your necessary info:

Kalk 1

Kalk 2

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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i'm think of FOWLR for now.

ANN (Ammonia, Nitrite & Nitrate) i'm ok with these.

But for Ca and kH, how to control? Heard baking soda recipes to raise dkh. How much to use? Is it easy?

Heard also sugar to reduce NO3? Is it true? How much to use?

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i'm think of FOWLR for now.

ANN (Ammonia, Nitrite & Nitrate) i'm ok with these.

But for Ca and kH, how to control? Heard baking soda recipes to raise dkh. How much to use? Is it easy?

Heard also sugar to reduce NO3? Is it true? How much to use?

Baking Soda will raise dkH but if you use drip kalk in a FOWLR, you will not really need to resort into Baking Soda.

Sugar have be a source of debate for many years regarding its function and the bacteria it encourages.

I suggest you stick to the well proven method first in order not to confused yourself any further.

Try to read up articles written by Robert Fenner, he is one of the respected guru when comes to FOWLRs.

HTH ;)

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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Latest reading:

NO3 25mg/l

kH 7.36dkH

ph 8.0

Salinity 1.0205

Temperature 30.5C

Calcium,Magnesium ??? Did not buy kit to test

Does every thing look alright?

Current LS: 3 X Damselfish, 2 X tang (1.5inch), 1 X butterfly, 30Kg LR

When to take reading again?

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hi whoami,

your tank parameters look alright for most fishes. in fact, your alkalinity readings are pretty good if youre able to keep it constantly above 7/8dkh. the nitrates might be a concern for your inverts and corals though. think perhaps you ought to recheck your skimmer set up, see if the water levels are all correct and if youve tuned it rightly to get it working efficiently, and that should reduce the amount of organics breaking down daily, and allow your tank to deal with existing nitrates, and thereby lead to improved water quality in time.

cheers,

ian

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Do you know how much water is evaporated daily? You may drip the same amount for a start and test periodically to see whether your kH & Ca is still within range. If not, adjust accordingly.

HTH ;)

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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Ok that should not be difficult.

Is it dripping the Kalkwasser solution from the bottle into the tank directly, or do i need to mix the Kalkwasser solution with water first before dripping.

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kalkwasser is in powder form. you need to mix it with water and drip it slowly to high flow area cos of the potentially high pH it carries.

manufacturer will include direction of use.

Take a look at AquaZ kalk if you are planning to get some, its very affordable and does the job well.

the web got lots of pic of "DIY kalk drip", or you can read up in Acidjazz's tank picture (the earlier part). think he had pic of his diy ones.

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Finially got my hand on a Kalk

It's from Seachem Reef Kalkwasser. The instruction say:

Add 3g(1 tesspoon) to 4l of water. If using pure water, a fully saturated solution is prepared by adding 6g (2tea spoons) to 4l. Monitor pH and carbonate alkalinity. Adjust rate of addition to maintain a stable pH (8.3 - 8.4). Adding 4l of saturated kalk to 150l will raise calcium by 24mg/l

Currently my reading are:

Ca 440, kh 7, pH 8.0, NO3 25

2 bottles of 1.5l was evaporated daily (mine is a 4 foot tanks)

How much of kalk to mix in 1 bottle of 1.5l? All don't seem to relate to me :(

My Ca looks ok want to increase the kH only. But the instruction given was to add kalk to increase Ca? How are they linked?

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