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High KH.....19


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bro PH 8.2

NH3 0

NO2 0

NO3 60ppm

Temp 29-30

Just a clarification, it is on my 1ft tank.

Anyway to lower?

My 2 frogfish died.....yesterday

My Condolence :(

Your NO3 is a bit high....maybe changing more water is required. As for high KH, did you dose Calcium or other addidtives?

I think to lower your KH, you need to change water, that's the most effective way of curing.

Hope it helps :)

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Is your tank 4ft or 1ft? or you have 2 tank? So which one is the problem???

IMO, Dosing sugar may not neccessary bring down NO3....if it really does, is just a short period of time as sugar increase Bacteria metalbolism but after that without sugar, your NO3 will be back haunting you. I tried, but guess not so good....

If the problem is on your 1ft, changed the entire water....to prevent any more losses.

If it is on your 4ft, still suggest changed water...by the way what salt you using? Checked the salt contents.

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Rule # 1. Know what is the real problem.

Kh high, so what. Your fish won't die because high in Kh.

If you do nothing , it'll drop by itself. as long as you don't dose PH buffer ( most PH buffer is Kh ).

Please need NO WATER CHANGE.

High in KH and Ca will grow Coraline algae , which is GOOD.

If you want to know more about Kh , read this. Ca & Kh

Life is like a peice of Uncured Live Rock [ from LFS ], you never know what you gonna get.........

Ocean Gump

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hi there Derek, pls do check out this great article on calcium and alkalinity maintenance as it explains how to correct almost all situations of ionic imbalance between these two parameters for almost all situations.

for your problem at hand, heres an excerpt from the article. like bro mismarine said, it cites commercial PH buffers as the primary cause,

do stop adding commercial buffers to bring up PH if thats what youre doing ya. theres no real need to change the water if you dont wish to, but since your tank is only one foot, a change with two bags of nsw will quickly solve the problem.

From "CHEMISTRY AND THE AQUARIUM by RANDY HOLMES-FARLEY"

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm

Corrections for Zone 3 (very high alkalinity)

Zone 3 problems are a little harder to correct, and are fairly common. It is, in fact, the problem in the real question posed at the beginning of this article (it doesn’t say so there, but the alkalinity was 3.2 meq/L). This problem is typically caused by overdosing alkalinity RELATIVE to calcium, but does not necessarily imply that calcium is either too high or too low (though it is almost always too low). To correct problems in this zone, monitoring of calcium and alkalinity values during correction is especially important.

One more word about this zone before getting to solutions: Many tanks end up here because aquarists are trying to correct pH problems by adding “buffer.” In my opinion, one should not try to correct any pH problem by simply adding an alkalinity supplement. If you are low on alkalinity, it is a fine course of action to raise the alkalinity. But if alkalinity is OK, or even high, adding an alkalinity supplement to alter the pH may simply create a worse problem. Better solutions to pH problems are discussed in this recent article6.

If this problem is extreme (i.e., you are far from the line at the right hand edge of zone 3), then water changes may be the best way to correct to the problem. In most cases, however, water changes aren’t necessary.

I would advise correcting this problem by adding a calcium chloride supplement until you have moved into the target zone (or zones 1 or 2 that you can then treat as described above) as shown in Figure 4. Almost any brand of calcium chloride will do (Kent Turbo Calcium, Kent Liquid Calcium, ESV, etc.). Certain other calcium supplements may also be OK (such as just the calcium component of the two-part calcium and alkalinity additive systems), but you do not want to add any alkalinity. You CANNOT use limewater or a calcium carbonate/carbon dioxide reactor to correct this problem. Any of the balanced calcium and alkalinity additive systems will move you parallel to the line at the edge of the zone, while you want to move over to it, and cross it.

Figure 4. A graph showing how to correct values within zone 3 by adding a calcium additive, such as calcium chloride (the blue arrow).

If calcium is less than 400 ppm, I’d suggest using this handy online calculator7 to determine how much dry calcium chloride is necessary to move back to the target zone. Note that it is a minimum estimate because it does not know how much alkalinity you have, so it cannot know if you are only raising calcium directly (which it calculates) or are also precipitating calcium carbonate (when alkalinity is high this will probably happen, but is typically not a problem other than that it uses up some of what you add).

If the calcium is above 400 ppm in this zone (unlikely, but it does happen), then you can safely either do nothing until it drops and you need to add more calcium, and treat it as suggested in the previous paragraph, or you can add some calcium immediately, move into zone 1, and then just let it drop on its own.

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hi bro..

sorry for ur losses..

didn't know both of them up the lorry .. until now... dun be sad..

hmm maybe it will be a better choice to upgrade ur tank bigger before u buy new frogfish. cos they are relatively heavy waste producers..

a bigger tank with proper filtration system and a good running skimmer .. will save you lots of problems on long run.. and also enough space problems when they grow bigger..

cheers :D

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To all bros....thanks for your valuable feedback and guidance.

I did nothing but change to a better filter with good aeration....this morning just check....KH down to 12.

NH3 0

NO2 0

NO3 40

PH 8.2

No LS in the tank......just normal cycling....

Appreciate all bros help especially bro ian toh....

Bro Lester....ya lor....very sad....any lobang for nice angler???

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I recently had problems wit kh tester bought 1 month ago, not 2 mention the brand here - it gives me reading a high of 13, but double tested in a lfs which reads 8 only... suggest u test a water sample in ur nearby lfs.(maybe can pay the lfs guy sum $$ 4 the test?)

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To all bros....thanks for your valuable feedback and guidance.

I did nothing but change to a better filter with good aeration....this morning just check....KH down to 12.

NH3 0

NO2 0

NO3 40

PH 8.2

No LS in the tank......just normal cycling....

Appreciate all bros help especially bro ian toh....

Bro Lester....ya lor....very sad....any lobang for nice angler???

hmmm.. have not been seeing much frogs these few days .... will update you when i sees one.:) . wakai have one but quite big.

btw care to explian more on ur setup ??? cos imo it will be better to solve ur current tank problem before it cause another frog...

Are you keeping them in a 1 feeter??

cheers :D

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Dun tink the fragfish died of the high no3...

It probably died due to the sudden change in water condition... as much as you like to reduce the no3 and kh, do it in small amounts slowly... best if over a period of 7-14 days... if no3 is reduced too rapidly, u can kill ur corals too... Anyway, how long you had the frogfish? It may not be doing well in the 1st place to begin with... :P

People do not plan to fail; Often they just fail to plan...

Wat I do to prevent myself from tearing my hair out... My stress remedy...

post-34-1105890976.jpg

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Dun tink the fragfish died of the high no3...

It probably died due to the sudden change in water condition... as much as you like to reduce the no3 and kh, do it in small amounts slowly... best if over a period of 7-14 days... if no3 is reduced too rapidly, u can kill ur corals too... Anyway, how long you had the frogfish? It may not be doing well in the 1st place to begin with... :P

hi bro ..

i rem he just bought the frogfish not too long ago...

am i right ??? :blink:

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Yap! I bought the frog fish 2 weeks ago and they die 1 week later.

Anyway, i find out why they died. I think should be the reason.....after checking with another angler hobbist at a LFS. I have feed it with reliable long kang catch guppy....1st few days i fed it with demsel with they were alright. Then on the 5th day, i fed it with guppy and the next nite they vomit out the carcass of the guppy. Next day both pass away.....

Water parameter should be alright.

Bro Lester....i m keeping in a 1 ft tank. My 4 ft tank is currently going thru hyposalinty test so didn't put my angler in.

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Yap! I bought the frog fish 2 weeks ago and they die 1 week later.

Anyway, i find out why they died. I think should be the reason.....after checking with another angler hobbist at a LFS. I have feed it with reliable long kang catch guppy....1st few days i fed it with demsel with they were alright. Then on the 5th day, i fed it with guppy and the next nite they vomit out the carcass of the guppy. Next day both pass away.....

Water parameter should be alright.

Bro Lester....i m keeping in a 1 ft tank. My 4 ft tank is currently going thru hyposalinty test so didn't put my angler in.

gosh bro, u fed it with LONG KANG GUPPIES???

I think it better for you to research more on venturing into other fishes in future. Better in these way lah...at least wont burn your pocket.... :lol:

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