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Moonbar : Revolution


LiveRock
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400-500 is not a good budget i must add on

a rough estimate of about $50 to make burn a chip :)

like eeprom

if ppl are really intrested i dun mind trying to make one :)

Bro if you can make one costing only $50 with just 20 LEDs, I will order a 100 pieces from you. A microcontroller already costs about a $100 and we have not talked about programming costs.

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Bro if you can make one costing only $50 with just 20 LEDs, I will order a 100 pieces from you. A microcontroller already costs about a $100 and we have not talked about programming costs.

but even so 400-500 is way off :)

i'm talking about $50 is the chip bro including the programming :)

maybe i'm cheap labour loh

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but even so 400-500 is way off :)

i'm talking about $50 is the chip bro including the programming :)

maybe i'm cheap labour loh

Have you really considered all the costs carefully? I don't even know if $300 to $500 can cover costs.

Heres why but perhaps I am wrong:

1) proper water/splash proof housing

2) proper plastic clip on or similar attachment

3) 430nm superbright LEDs each $1

4)Micro controller

5)timer and counter

6) resister array

7)circuit housing and PCB fabrication

8)programming costs and time involved

I could have missed out a few more items but these alone I calculated would cost about $300 to $500 alone. 20 to 40 LEDs already cost $200 to $300 at $1 each. Unless you use the cheapo $0.30 blue LEDs which are not much use in the first place since they are mostly 490nm to 500 plus nm wavelength.

I even wanted to build 5W LEDs of 470nm but do you know how much each of these cost???? $80 and min order of 5 pieces.

So please do proper calculations before you give false quotations. :)

But then again there are many ways of doing it and perhaps you have simpler and easier less complicated methods. And thats the fun of DIY. :P

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Liverock and cookiemonter,

One question on LED. Can their output be varies??

I need a moonbar that can either be vary from 0v to 10v or a moonbar that can be vary through phrase angel control...

Currently I'm only using a tangsten bulb of 5w hook up to the phrase angel control to varies the frequency of the current and hence varies the output of the light.

If LED can be done, that will be cool :yeah:

Hey bro thats CookieMunster not monter, :P

LEDs can be varied. Usually LEDs sold are rated for max of 5V. Most are 1.5 or 3V LEDs.

Varying the voltage will change the brightness just like a variable light in the house.

If you have a signal generating a sine wave of peak 5V and valley of 1V over a time period, you can get a slowly changing light intensity. Do not let it turn off completely however as this will shorten the lifespan of your LED.

A simpler method would be manual adjustments. You just need to use a voltage divider on resister and potentiometer in parallel to vary the voltage across the LEDs. :D

However, I think using a 1W or 5W LED would have more significant effect.

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Have you really considered all the costs carefully? I don't even know if $300 to $500 can cover costs.

Heres why but perhaps I am wrong:

1) proper water/splash proof housing

2) proper plastic clip on or similar attachment

3) 430nm superbright LEDs each $1

4)Micro controller

5)timer and counter

6) resister array

7)circuit housing and PCB fabrication

8)programming costs and time involved

I could have missed out a few more items but these alone I calculated would cost about $300 to $500 alone. 20 to 40 LEDs already cost $200 to $300 at $1 each. Unless you use the cheapo $0.30 blue LEDs which are not much use in the first place since they are mostly 490nm to 500 plus nm wavelength.

I even wanted to build 5W LEDs of 470nm but do you know how much each of these cost???? $80 and min order of 5 pieces.

So please do proper calculations before you give false quotations. :)

But then again there are many ways of doing it and perhaps you have simpler and easier less complicated methods. And thats the fun of DIY. :P

"20 to 40 LEDs already cost $200 to $300 at $1 each"

i dun understand the above :)

sorry

i dun see why the brightest led should ALWAYS be used

maybe as a personal preferene, moonlight should not be that bright

if u want it soo bright might as well use a FL covered with blue "chelphane"(dunno how to spell) paper

i believe dat those brighter and more expensive leds should be used only when the tank is really deep and u wish to penetrate till the bottom

but as per above, it varies from a case-case basis : )

1) proper water/splash proof housing

i dun think its dat expensive :)

2) proper plastic clip on or similar attachment

can be done using acrylic with glue

3) 430nm superbright LEDs each $1

as per above

4)Micro controller

cost wise varies i believe

5)timer and counter

i believe a crystal oscilator might do fine

6) resister array

not expensive

7)circuit housing and PCB fabrication

normal ready made boards can be used, but ofcos if u wanna do ur own neater and more tedious method is to use CAD, then etch : )

too much work for me :P

8)programming costs and time involved

dunno how much i'm worth

"But then again there are many ways of doing it and perhaps you have simpler and easier less complicated methods. And thats the fun of DIY. "

ya perhaps :)

we are all learning everyday : )

cheers have fun!

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Alright! Let's have a competition... may the best DIYer win! :)

Joking! But it'll be great to put your heads together... and come up with a 'made in SRC product'... hahaha... I'll help you market it overseas! :)

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Hey bro thats CookieMunster not monter, :P

LEDs can be varied. Usually LEDs sold are rated for max of 5V. Most are 1.5 or 3V LEDs.

Varying the voltage will change the brightness just like a variable light in the house.

If you have a signal generating a sine wave of peak 5V and valley of 1V over a time period, you can get a slowly changing light intensity. Do not let it turn off completely however as this will shorten the lifespan of your LED.

A simpler method would be manual adjustments. You just need to use a voltage divider on resister and potentiometer in parallel to vary the voltage across the LEDs. :D

However, I think using a 1W or 5W LED would have more significant effect.

cookies,

I only have a device that emit 0v to 10v max. Possible to rig up a 2 x 5v LED to be dim on my available device???

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Alright! Let's have a competition... may the best DIYer win! :)

Joking! But it'll be great to put your heads together... and come up with a 'made in SRC product'... hahaha... I'll help you market it overseas! :)

haha great idea :)

but i'm still at a learning stage lah

dun dare to aim too high :)

anyway if need ur help, u will be the first on my list

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"20 to 40 LEDs already cost $200 to $300 at $1 each"

i dun understand the above :)

sorry

i dun see why the brightest led should ALWAYS be used

maybe as a personal preferene, moonlight should not be that bright

if u want it soo bright might as well use a FL covered with blue "chelphane"(dunno how to spell) paper

i believe dat those brighter and more expensive leds should be used only when the tank is really deep and u wish to penetrate till the bottom

but as per above, it varies from a case-case basis : )

1) proper water/splash proof housing

i dun think its dat expensive :)

2) proper plastic clip on or similar attachment

can be done using acrylic with glue

3) 430nm superbright LEDs each $1

as per above

4)Micro controller

cost wise varies i believe

5)timer and counter

i believe a crystal oscilator might do fine

6) resister array

not expensive

7)circuit housing and PCB fabrication

normal ready made boards can be used, but ofcos if u wanna do ur own neater and more tedious method is to use CAD, then etch : )

too much work for me :P

8)programming costs and time involved

dunno how much i'm worth

"But then again there are many ways of doing it and perhaps you have simpler and easier less complicated methods. And thats the fun of DIY. "

ya perhaps :)

we are all learning everyday : )

cheers have fun!

Bro its the wavelength that matters. Not the brightness. If I wanted bright, I would just use a 5W LED instead of 20 to 40 LEDs.

Oh yeah oops I made a mistake with the maths. :D Mind is too boggled. 20 to 40 is only $20 to $40. Oops. Ok Sigh no wonder I was thinking $200 to $500. Sorry dude. No wonder you are saying its too ex. I must have been thinking 200 to 400 LEDs. hahahaha

But the rest of the things I've stated will cost. Then again I am thinking nicely fabricated stuff not super glue and rubber band DIYs. So of course prices will vary. :)

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Bro its the wavelength that matters. Not the brightness. If I wanted bright, I would just use a 5W LED instead of 20 to 40 LEDs.

Oh yeah oops I made a mistake with the maths. :D Mind is too boggled. 20 to 40 is only $20 to $40. Oops. Ok Sigh no wonder I was thinking $200 to $500. Sorry dude. No wonder you are saying its too ex. I must have been thinking 200 to 400 LEDs. hahahaha

But the rest of the things I've stated will cost. Then again I am thinking nicely fabricated stuff not super glue and rubber band DIYs. So of course prices will vary. :)

haha glad u realised !

"So please do proper calculations before you give false quotations. "

so would u like to that back the above statement about me??

:)

so my quote is not dat un realistic after all huh ?

personally i believe in practicality and cost effieciency :)

anyway nice knowing DIY freks like myself

haha :)

DIY is addictive or maybe its in the blood

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Alright! Let's have a competition... may the best DIYer win! :)

Joking! But it'll be great to put your heads together... and come up with a 'made in SRC product'... hahaha... I'll help you market it overseas! :)

Bro I've got alot alot of other stuff and DIY ideas. I just don't have the time....reason you already know. Sigh Damn. If only I had more time on hand.

I'm hoping someone here will be successful with the LED moonlight phase concept too. And hopefully available cheaply. I'd really rather buy off the shelf than spend so much time fabricating one.

Personally I would just want to use 1 or 2 1W LED of 470nm to act as moonlight. Its alot cheaper than replacing my T5 artinics and probably will last longer too. Not to mention save alot of electricity too.

However, 430nm LEDs are only 5V 3mm ones and will need more of these.

Gabriel hope to see you make something out soon. By the way, all the LED specs are easily available from RS components catalogues. The pricing are all there too. Try to go for the 430nm ones as these are reported to be more beneficial to corals.

Cheers

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Bro I've got alot alot of other stuff and DIY ideas. I just don't have the time....reason you already know. Sigh Damn. If only I had more time on hand.

I'm hoping someone here will be successful with the LED moonlight phase concept too. And hopefully available cheaply. I'd really rather buy off the shelf than spend so much time fabricating one.

Personally I would just want to use 1 or 2 1W LED of 470nm to act as moonlight. Its alot cheaper than replacing my T5 artinics and probably will last longer too. Not to mention save alot of electricity too.

However, 430nm LEDs are only 5V 3mm ones and will need more of these.

Gabriel hope to see you make something out soon. By the way, all the LED specs are easily available from RS components catalogues. The pricing are all there too. Try to go for the 430nm ones as these are reported to be more beneficial to corals.

Cheers

i'm currently tied down with my studies too

dun have much time too

haha

RS i believe is a company called rhid stien or something right??

hmm.... ok thanks for the advise :)

cheers

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Guys,

The purpose of a moonlight is not to provide corals with enough light intensity in the right wavelength.... but just to give them a natural stimulation cue which may cause them to spawn if they feel that they are in a natural environment.

The light from some moonlights are so intense its almost like using an actinic bulb to simulate dusk/dawn.

IMO, you should only provide enough illumination to see your corals faintly ie. by straining your eyes alot. Anything more than that and you may actually disrupt the night rest cycle. And your fishes' rest period will also be disrupted.

Even with simulating the full moon's intensity... you won't be able to see much at all... trust me... I did night dives with full moons and when I switched off my dive torch... it's still very dark at 3 to 5 metres depth... the ambient moonlight is NOT like what some aquarist think it should be.

Don't confuse a night viewing light with moonlight.... hee hee!

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Guys,

The purpose of a moonlight is not to provide corals with enough light intensity in the right wavelength.... but just to give them a natural stimulation cue which may cause them to spawn if they feel that they are in a natural environment.

The light from some moonlights are so intense its almost like using an actinic bulb to simulate dusk/dawn.

IMO, you should only provide enough illumination to see your corals faintly ie. by straining your eyes alot. Anything more than that and you may actually disrupt the night rest cycle. And your fishes' rest period will also be disrupted.

Even with simulating the full moon's intensity... you won't be able to see much at all... trust me... I did night dives with full moons and when I switched off my dive torch... it's still very dark at 3 to 5 metres depth... the ambient moonlight is NOT like what some aquarist think it should be.

Don't confuse a night viewing light with moonlight.... hee hee!

i agree with u on this point :)

but some ppl just wanna enjoy the view of the blue night during the night i guess

as i have said in my previous post

its not nesc to get the most powerful leds or cold cathodes :)

cheers

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Hmmm, cookie... then I guess your actinic replacement/supplement set will not be worth the $$ then! ;)

Just stick to LED moonlight.

LEDs don't give sufficient intensity as main lighting as you have to use a lot of these and it will be too costly (currently).

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Something you might want to consider:

The moonlight should not exceed 200 lumen due to the fact that the symbiosis algae needs some “rest” at night to regenerate and grow properly.

Especially the super bright LED’s might exceed this threshold and you will get negative results when used :cry: .

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Something you might want to consider:

The moonlight should not exceed 200 lumen due to the fact that the symbiosis algae needs some “rest” at night to regenerate and grow properly.

Especially the super bright LED’s might exceed this threshold and you will get negative results when used :cry: .

Hey WOW! You've just given me another idea!

I wonder. If I want to kill aiptasia or bubble algae, I should just attach a high intensity ultraviolet LED or infrared LED to radiate the bugger and its pin point accuracy too...I mean well a radius of about 4cm or less. Thats cool. I wonder if it will work.

Just connect one of these LED to a plastic pipe and lower into position then turn on and leave for 1hr. FRY THEM Smart bomb style. :yeah:

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wow! :lol:

The discussion is really interesting! Talking about SimCity, we should also have SimAquarium with all the moonphases, tides, mists, meteor showers, rain, fresh air, etc. ha haha ha....

Anyway, I always try to approach a problem using the most simple solution I can find. First we define what we want, the main objective.

In this case, the first objective, like AT mentioned, is to have a suitable nightlight to observe the activities at night, so you leverage on your investment, which is your tank. Now you can actually enjoy your tank 24 hours a day, even in the middle of the night when you wake up to do your business :paiseh:

Other 'benefits' like spawning, killing parasites, etc. are not guranteed :lol:

However, I do think that varying the LED intensity whether automatically or manually, is a valid and important user requirement. The wavelength of the light is also important because the light reaching the corals in nature is invariably blue, after the absorption in the water.

Yes, lets work together for a moonlight that is affordable and meets the primary needs.

Cheers!

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Hi guys,

Maybe you would be interested in the following abstract taken from

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.p...threadid=243393

Abstract:

In many species of symbiotic corals, spawning occurs synchronously several nights after the full moon. This process is correlated with the level of lunar irradiance, but the mechanism by which these cnidarian/zooxanthellate symbioses can detect such low levels of light remains unknown. Here we report the first biophysical evidence that the host animal exhibits extraordinarily sensitive photoreception in the blue region of the spectrum. Using a high-resolution laser-induced signal to detect tentacle scattering, we measured the effect of low irradiance on the contraction of polyps in the corals that normally have their tentacles extended in darkness. Similar to most deep-sea invertebrates, the action spectra of coral photoreception reveal a maximum sensitivity in the blue, at 480 nm, with a spectral band width (at full-width half-maximum) of ca. 110 nm. The spectra closely overlap the maximal transparency of oligotrophic tropical waters, thus optimizing the perception of low light at depth. The detected threshold of photoreception sensitivity is ~1.2 X l015 quanta m-2 s-1 in the blue region. This makes corals capable of sensing the blue portion of lunar irradiance, as evidenced from the recorded slight contractions of polyp tentacles under variations in moonlight intensity

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Hi onghm

nice abstract...

here it is:

Abstract:

In many species of symbiotic corals, spawning occurs synchronously several nights after the full moon. This process is correlated with the level of lunar irradiance, but the mechanism by which these cnidarian/zooxanthellate symbioses can detect such low levels of light remains unknown. Here we report the first biophysical evidence that the host animal exhibits extraordinarily sensitive photoreception in the blue region of the spectrum. Using a high-resolution laser-induced signal to detect tentacle scattering, we measured the effect of low irradiance on the contraction of polyps in the corals that normally have their tentacles extended in darkness. Similar to most deep-sea invertebrates, the action spectra of coral photoreception reveal a maximum sensitivity in the blue, at 480 nm, with a spectral band width (at full-width half-maximum) of ca. 110 nm. The spectra closely overlap the maximal transparency of oligotrophic tropical waters, thus optimizing the perception of low light at depth. The detected threshold of photoreception sensitivity is ~1.2 X l015 quanta m-2 s-1 in the blue region. This makes corals capable of sensing the blue portion of lunar irradiance, as evidenced from the recorded slight contractions of polyp tentacles under variations in moonlight intensity

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