Jump to content

weileong's new 4ft tank - 4(L)x3(W)x2(H)ft


weileong
 Share

Recommended Posts

After 15 months with my current 4(L)x2(W)x2.5(H)ft tank and seeing the limitation with the setup. I have decided to tear it down and restart with a brand new tank.

The upgrade shall be gradual and consist of a few phrases. This are done with experiences that other reefers had so your mistake is what I gain :thanks:

Phrase one - To change out the Aqualight 2x250W BLV10kk + 1x150W BLV 20kk lighting to 3x250W BLV10kk (individual pendants) with 4x54W T5. If the 4x54 is insufficient to balance out the yellowish color of the BLV then more tubes shall be added. The plan is to change out the Aqualight to the new pendants (minus the T5) with the old 4ft tank in place. This shall ease the amount of work needed when the new tank has arrived.

Phrase two - New LR of suitable shape and sizes will be bought and then cycled with zeovit system in a separate tub. This will ensure no nutrients built up when the LR are eventually placed into the new tank. Phrase two will last about a month or longer.

Phrase three - This is the most shiong part of the upgrade as usual. In prepartion of for the arrival of the new tank. The old tank will be tear down few hrs before the arrival of the new tank and SPS will be placed into a temporary holding tub. Fishes will be placed into another separate tub. Unwanted fishes will be removed and with the new reef which is focused mainly on SPS, I will only keep the Achilles and the dwarf angels and other misc small fishes like my pair of tomato clown and six line wrasse. The old tank will be removed and the new tank takes it's placed. The fittings and piping would be installed on the new tank and sump. Old saltwater from the old tank will be used to fill the new tank. The LR which are fully cycled by now would be added. The LR would then be returned to the new tank gradually, the fishes first followed by the SPS.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The new tank will use a 5" wide overflow that runs along the length of the tank so the effective width becomes 31".

There will be no sandbed so it is a true bare bottom system.

Main overflow pipe is 2x40mm modified dunso with 2x25mm open end pipe as backup.

Main return pump will be 12,000 l/h Red Dragon split into 2x32mm return pipe. No close loop pumps will be used. One of the split outlet will be used to drive my 1/2hp artical commerial chiller.

Another 1/2hp artica will be driven via a Iwaki MD40R as backup chiller via a separate electrical loop in case the main return pump or the main chiller breaks down or stop running down to power trip.

A tunze Wavebox + TS48 (4x6100 stream) will create the required water movements in the reef tank.

The LR stucture will be raised by a platform that the material used has not been decided yet. Two tunze 6060 will be install one at each corner to create water movement inside the LR structure so that no nutrients will built up.

post-34-1111133809.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Main return pump will be 12,000 l/h Red Dragon split into 2x32mm return pipe. No close loop pumps will be used. One of the split outlet will be used to drive my 1/2hp artical commerial chiller.

Another 1/2hp artica will be driven via a Iwaki MD40R as backup chiller via a separate electrical loop in case the main return pump or the main chiller breaks down or stop running down to power trip.

I pass you the 10m3 for your backup chiller loop lah.....

can split that also for other misc equipment...hehe

on or not? :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seriously this type of flow are not as strong as some of you guys imagine cos it is strong but widespread flow from the tunze. But sometimes it's hard to fault you guys as you probably runs your reef tanks with lower flows.

I currently run my reef with 3x6100 (40% - 100% pulse mode every 7 sec) and 12,000 l/h RD (abt 8000 l/h after head lost) and the fishes behave normally and swim with ease :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • SRC Member

5 " partition might be too small ... my new tank uses almost 7" for the overflow compartment. The other thing to consider is if you made the overflow compartment too small - your hand cannot squeeze in because you have to consider the bracing otherwise use thick glass without bracing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bro surfedelic,

Thanks for the reminder, I was having the impression that the bracking should be on the baffle at the rear of the tank, instead of having it on the rear panel. I guess I'll probably have to go with 7" width for the overflow as my current tank or stick to 5" and use 15mm or 19mm for the rear panel without bracing.

The main purpose of starting this thread is to let everyone read what I have in mind so I will not make any stupid mistakes *again*.

Bro diabolus, the power consumption should not be too much higher than what I am having now.

The main difference is additional of the following:

MD40R - 98W @ 0 ft head (actually power drawn should be lesser as the chiller will be remote).

additional tunze 6100 - 48W (actual power drawn is also lesser as it is in pulse mode)

Wavebox, about 65W ? (no too sure about that, but once again the flow is reduced at night so also not 100% full consumption)

Additional of 100W MH so probably chiller run time is slightly longer too. My guess is less than $50 increase in monthly electrical bills.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share



×
×
  • Create New...