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My humble 3ft - PLEASE ADVICE -


yiling
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Bro, i think the return pump is not power enough. Bec for wht i heard is tht for china made pump will reduce the flow rate for now and then. I use rio 32 for my 2ft cube wth one octopus that can c where u wan to shoot the current (a bit kia su). Jst keep looking at the sump got overflow out a not. Btw very nice rock scaping.. More up date.. :rolleyes:

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nice tank u got there!

dun recommend u to put sand into ur left bottom area of ur sump... u will choke the water flow....

lightings, if not really into sps, tink shld go for 1X250W MH supplementing it with T5s or T8s... in this way, u can keep the height of ur lights... acclialmost all corals liao somemore u can see the great growth of ur softies under that kind of light ;)

hanging MH is gd in the sense that u can adjust matising ur corals when u change new bulbs and adjust to the height to ur liking ;)

oh ok...will keep that in mind.

but must i really get hanging ones :(

im lazy to drill holes or does anyone provide drilling with the sale of the lights together?

am thinking of DE type that DIYed in the hood itself.

unless im convinced that hanging types are better for the growth hehe

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you can go for the non hanging type MH like Weipro, Hylux...etc.....but generally people would like to hang on ceilling because these lights are heavy and they don't want to stress their tank!!!

another way is to take out its internal ballast and extend it out as external ballast or simply change all the ballast to eballast.....you be surprise how light the unit can become (my weipro MH went from 7kg (or was it 10???) to 3 kg).....

HI tineng, did u DIY your ballast yourself?

am afraid that ill only make it worst if im to DIY.

since sec days, my technical only C

cheers

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Bro, i think the return pump is not power enough. Bec for wht i heard is tht for china made pump will reduce the flow rate for now and then. I use rio 32 for my 2ft cube wth one octopus that can c where u wan to shoot the current (a bit kia su). Jst keep looking at the sump got overflow out a not. Btw very nice rock scaping.. More up date.. :rolleyes:

wah 32HF for 2 ft ?

no tsunami in your tank?

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am thinking of getting mH...but how many u think is needed for clams?

is there any mH that doesnt require hanging from the celing?

are u talking about the valve in the pic ? :idea::idea::idea:

thats what i thought too...

but what if i use crushed corals?

u think it will do the job?

BTW my uncle recommended me to use bioballs in the overflow...

he was mentioning something called BIOHOME...

anyone heard of it before?

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thats what i thought too...

but what if i use crushed corals?

u think it will do the job?

BTW my uncle recommended me to use bioballs in the overflow...

he was mentioning something called BIOHOME...

anyone heard of it before?

Dun use bio ball..... most ppl use them in their overflow box becos they want to reduce the noise of water flowing down.... rather redundant especially when you already have dursor pipe... Or am i seeing things :lol::lol:



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Dun use bio ball..... most ppl use them in their overflow box becos they want to reduce the noise of water flowing down.... rather redundant especially when you already have dursor pipe... Or am i seeing things :lol::lol:

Hi ...

correct me if i am wrong ... i thought Bio balls in the overflow comparment are meant for a purpose. thought is for certian bac to grow which are O2 taker before the water enter the sump ???

:blink:

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oh ok...will keep that in mind.

but must i really get hanging ones

im lazy to drill holes or does anyone provide drilling with the sale of the lights together?

am thinking of DE type that DIYed in the hood itself.

unless im convinced that hanging types are better for the growth hehe

u can use any types that u feel comfortable for ur system, mine is just a recommedation... ;)

as long as u hav enuff allowance inside ur hood, u can try ur way too... can using spider reflector with SE too :)

BTW my uncle recommended me to use bioballs in the overflow...

if u r not going with a wet-and-dry filtration system, dun use bioballs... they r efficient to convert ammonia to nitrate but u will be stuck with nitrate....

since u feel it too empty, can try to put liverocks or dead coral skeleton in there... serves betta purposes...

he was mentioning something called BIOHOME...

biohome i nv try b4, but it's supposed to hav nitrifying + denitrifying effects... but it's not cheap ;) might as well use some not so nice live-rocks... hence can serve as a refuguim as well :)

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Hi ...

correct me if i am wrong ... i thought Bio balls in the overflow comparment are meant for a purpose. thought is for certian bac to grow which are O2 taker before the water enter the sump ???

:blink:

Depends on where you put.... are you talking abt in the overflow box or in the sump.... If in the overflow box, most ppl use them to reduce noise of water flowing down(main purpose) while the other purpose is to so call culture bacteria..... Anyway try not to use bio balls..... things get trap there and sooner or later, it may become a nitrate factory



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Yup,

As a user of bioballs, I have seen dirt accumulating at the top of the overflow tower so I have like 3 layers of sponge to trap all the debris. Even then I probably will have to remove a quarter of the bioballs and wash them to get rid of the debris.

In my case, I used bio balls primarily to reduce noise ( sounded like the toilet flushing 24 hrs ) and also as a mode of filtration.

I've read rather good reviews of biohome but the price kills hehe.

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thanks for the advice, lucky my uncle has not ordered for me yet.

And yes, its pretty expensive..

anyway after 3 days into the cycle , these are some readings from my first test

1 - kH = 8 DH

2 - pH = 8.5

3 - Salinity = 1.020

4 - NO2 = 0.3mg/l

5 - NO3 = 5.0 mg/l

6 - NO2(SALIFERT) - 0

7 - NO3(SALIFERT) - 2mg/l

8 - NH4 = 0.5

9 temp at 27 degrees

Think that this time round..cycle is much slower even though the LR are all 2nd handed :peace:

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HI tineng, did u DIY your ballast yourself?

am afraid that ill only make it worst if im to DIY.

quite easy one......only a few wires to take care of......you can just mark them with different colored marker before disconnecting and move the ballast out the reconnect using a longer wire......

if you are changing all the ballast to eballast then a bit more involve as you will need to match the live to live, neutral to neutral and ground to ground - but not rocket science....should be quite easy also.... :D

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How high is your Hood? If you have abt 10", why not go for 250W Single Ended?

Size of reflector : 14inches(W) x 4 1/2Inches(H) x 16inches(L)

You just need to get the Reflector and a Control Gear box. (Normal or E-ballast, Up to you.)

1no of 250W should be good enough and just add 2 nos of T5 39W actinic. 1no on the front, the other at the back.

Just my 2 cents.

Ben

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How high is your Hood? If you have abt 10", why not go for 250W Single Ended?

Size of reflector : 14inches(W) x 4 1/2Inches(H) x 16inches(L)

You just need to get the Reflector and a Control Gear box. (Normal or E-ballast, Up to you.)

1no of 250W should be good enough and just add 2 nos of T5 39W actinic. 1no on the front, the other at the back.

Just my 2 cents.

Ben

thanks ben, ive already got my lights ..:)

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just beginning the cycle for the 4th day.

is there something wrong?

:blink:

IMHO i think during cycling of the new tank, skimmer should not be running at all.........

during cycling we want the bacterias to multiply up............so when the water is so clean how does these bacterias going to multiply leh?

i think in this case u will actually take more time to do ur tank cycling lor.........

however u can try to run any phosphate remover to remove all silicate or phosphate prior to the complete of cycling.........

good luck bro for ur setup........ :rolleyes:

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