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Resun 650


gods_angel77
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B) I’ve been using the Resun650 for about 3 months now

Here is some feedback and information for you guys

When the new Resun 650 chiller cut in and out it’s extremely noisy

the compressor cut  in/out every 10min creating a loud bang sound each time the compressor kicks in/out.

My chiller set temperature is 25 deg c  it cut in almost 6 times in 1 hour & 144 times a day. Who ever tells me it cut in only after 1 hour must be joking.

Overall the unit can be improve on :idea:

I believe the compressor should use inverter technology to save

cost and i strongly don't think that the bill only increases by $10 per month it is definitely range between $50-$60 per month. :erm:

If I have the money I rather pay more to get a better quality chiller like arctica 

Anyone who wants to feedback to me can E-mail me at gods_angel77@hotmail.com

:thanks:

Just to add, none of your claims were experienced by me who also happen to be using a set almost the same time as you. However since the colder months, the chiller tends to kick-in less often. Cooling still takes roughly about 45 mins on average for my case to reach the setting of 27 degrees cel.

Like what i have mentioned before, air-con technology is nothing new (old technology) so more costly chillers may have come from a "more expensive country" where production cost are higher.

Perhaps you might want to read-up on inverter technology and enlighten us how it will exactly help us save money?

Agree that sometimes (not all times) when the chiller cuts in there is a thud, not a bang though.

Costwise, apparently the real life costing varies between S$10 odd to S$20 odd as experienced by many who uses this unit. Perhaps you might want to check your flow rate, config and consider on the necessity to set it at 25 degrees cel.

My Beautiful ANGEL - Matsushima Nanako

Equipment List for 4x2x2 Tank & 3x1.5x1.5 Sump

Hagen 802 x 2, Tunze 6060, Arcadia T5 (54W x 8), Eheim 1260 (return) Eheim 1250 (Chiller), Aquabee 300 x 2 (Feed)

H&S 150-F2001 (850l Skimmer), H&S A110-F2000 (400l Skimmer), H&S 110-F1000 (1000l Sulphur/Nitrate Filter), H&S 150-F2000IA (800l Calcium Reactor)

Coralife 3X (UV Steriliser), I-Aquatic IF 312 (Fluidised Reactor), Kent Kalk Delivery, Resun CL650, Pinpoint ORP & PH Meters & Wireless Thermometer

4x2x2 Tank Thread

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I've tried to monitor the power comsumption from the day i started using my 250w MH,Resun CL650 and the rest of the PHs. This is my "not so accurate' findings.

Total increase of Electricity bill on a 3 mths average - $50

250w MH @ 8 hrs/day - $0.35 per day/$10.50 per month

160w of Powerheads @ 24 hrs/day - $0.65 per day/$19.50 per month

Therefore Resun Cl650 - $0.70 per day/$21.00 per month

BTW, the temp on my chiller is set at 26 degrees celcius and my chiller kicks in once it reaches 28 degrees celcius.

My chiller kicks in once every 1 and 1/2 hours and for about 20 minutes each time.

It might not be accurate but i hope that it provides a rough guide on the power consumption of the CL650.

cheers!

:peace:

hi bro... i think 250w MH @ 8 hrs/day - $0.35 per day/$10.50 per month is only the wattage given out by your lighting.... not including poor power factor by capacitor .

my mh lighting 150w + 27x2 w ,when i "tong" the cable with all equipment off except lighting ,it show a reading of 2.6A ...

by rite it should show - 204/240 = 0.88A ........

maybe u can follow this thread.. http://www.sgreefclub.com/forum/index.php?...pic=25896&st=30

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My chiller set temperature is 25 deg c it cut in almost 6 times in 1 hour & 144 times a day. Who ever tells me it cut in only after 1 hour must be joking.

i dun understand how your chiller can kicks in 6 times per hour?

i think you short circuit your chiller-in terms of chiller inlet and outlet placement.

;)

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don't mention it... my chiller refuse to kick in after i CA it...

duno whats wrong.. maybe i didnt have any lightings yet...

juz a question:

let say, my tank is 27 dc, den my chiller shows 29 dc...

the CA is -2 dc right? or + 2 dc???

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don't mention it... my chiller refuse to kick in after i CA it...

duno whats wrong.. maybe i didnt have any lightings yet...

juz a question:

let say, my tank is 27 dc, den my chiller shows 29 dc...

the CA is -2 dc right? or + 2 dc???

U shd set CA -2 to get 27 show on chiller display.

My decomm 4ft FOWLR

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tansh Posted on Jan 7 2005, 09:59 AM

  QUOTE (junyong84 @ Jan 6 2005, 10:39 PM)

don't mention it... my chiller refuse to kick in after i CA it...

duno whats wrong.. maybe i didnt have any lightings yet...

juz a question:

let say, my tank is 27 dc, den my chiller shows 29 dc...

the CA is -2 dc right? or + 2 dc??? 

U shd set CA -2 to get 27 show on chiller display. 

Hello all,

What is CA -2? What is it for? Purpose?

I am lost..... HELP!

:) Greeting :)

Tank: 4' by 2' by 2' (CR antique)

Sump: 3' include 1' refuigm

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Hi there can anyone out they enlighten me on this issue of putting the PH probe inside or outside a CR, which is, better?

I understand that we have to place the PH controller inside the CR and set the PH inside the CR to 7.5 so that S/V can continuously supply Co2 In order for the ARM media to diffuse with the Co2 and than to supply the calcium to the main tank

What I don’t understand (1)

Is if the PH controller controls the PH of the CR than what will happen to the PH of my main tank my present main tank PH is 8.2

I’m wondering after I installed my new CR how my PH in my CR will react with the value of the main tank PH will the value in main tank increase or decrease.

What I don’t understand (2)

Is it better to put the probe inside the main tank or the CR and if i place the probe inside the main tank than what value should i set on the PH controller

If I were to set a value of 8.2 for example in my main tank does it means at 8.2 the S/v providing the co2 to the cr should be it be open or close? If it is close than they will never be any calcium going into my main tank from the CR but if it’s open than the PH value of my main tank will drop

Basically now I’ve made my self very confuse will be really appreciate if the kind people out they can advice me on this issue

Equipment involve

PH controller

Calcium Reactor

Regulator

Solenoid Valve

Co2 Tank

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What is CA -2?  What is it for?  Purpose? 

I am lost.....  HELP!

yo...

u press SET and hold for 10s...then CA will appear and u press -, 2 times,

so that it shows -2 reading

then leave it....after awhile...when it is supposed to jump back to 29deg....it will correct it to 27deg liao... :D

it is to correct the chiller reading to the actual water temperature ;)

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yo...

u press SET and hold for 10s...then CA will appear and u press -, 2 times,

so that it shows -2 reading

then leave it....after awhile...when it is supposed to jump back to 29deg....it will correct it to 27deg liao...

it is to correct the chiller reading to the actual water temperature 

Oh so it is for misalignment of tank and chiller temperature..... Thanks Roidan!

gods_angel77 : Brother, u should create a new topic pertaining to the new question lah...... something like help needed to tune CR...

:) Greeting :)

Tank: 4' by 2' by 2' (CR antique)

Sump: 3' include 1' refuigm

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U shd set CA -2 to get 27 show on chiller display.

when i set CA - 2. my chiller refuse to kick in, til the water level raises to 29 dc as show by my external thermometer placed in the tank. then when the chiller kicks in, it run a short while, den drop to my preset temp. then stop. after a few mintues, it kick in again. the cycle contiunes.

how do i let fine tune it? let say, only actual 1 dc diff b4 the chiller kicks in again.

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Hi there can anyone out they enlighten me on this issue of putting the PH probe inside or outside a CR, which is, better?

I understand that we have to place the PH controller inside the CR and set the PH inside the CR to 7.5 so that S/V can continuously supply Co2 In order for the ARM media to diffuse with the Co2 and than to supply the calcium to the main tank

What I don’t understand (1)

Is if the PH controller controls the PH of the CR than what will happen to the PH of my main tank my present main tank PH is 8.2

I’m wondering after I installed my new CR how my PH in my CR will react with the value of the main tank PH will the value in main tank increase or decrease.

What I don’t understand (2)

Is it better to put the probe inside the main tank or the CR and if i place the probe inside the main tank than what value should i set on the PH controller

If I were to set a value of 8.2 for example in my main tank does it means at 8.2 the S/v providing the co2 to the cr should be it be open or close? If it is close than they will never be any calcium going into my main tank from the CR but if it’s open than the PH value of my main tank will drop

Basically now I’ve made my self very confuse will be really appreciate if the kind people out they can advice me on this issue

Equipment involve

PH controller

Calcium Reactor

Regulator

Solenoid Valve

Co2 Tank

abit out of point la..

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  • 2 weeks later...
so does the resun chiller works quietly after all ?

so if i purchase this chiller...does it mean that my total bill will be up max = $50 ?

Cheers

Whether it is quiet or noisy diferrent poeple have different perceptions, it is subjective. Unless we can get a Noise Meter to measure accurately the decibels produced by the different Brands.

So Weileong or Roidan, can get hold of one? ;) I dun mind letting you guys measure my CL650.

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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wa...decibel meter ah...

dun have leh....

ya i agree noise is a subjective thing....

what is loud to one may not be loud to another :D

Bro, Maybe can check whether your resourceful friend have it? ;)

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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:lol::lol::lol:

But the Artica is till in your front line right?

"Reefs, like forests, will only be protected in long term if they are appreciated"
Dr. J.E.N. Veron
Australian Institute of Marine Science


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Just to add, none of your claims were experienced by me who also happen to be using a set almost the same time as you. However since the colder months, the chiller tends to kick-in less often. Cooling still takes roughly about 45 mins on average for my case to reach the setting of 27 degrees cel.

Like what i have mentioned before, air-con technology is nothing new (old technology) so more costly chillers may have come from a "more expensive country" where production cost are higher.

Perhaps you might want to read-up on inverter technology and enlighten us how it will exactly help us save money?

Agree that sometimes (not all times) when the chiller cuts in there is a thud, not a bang though.

Costwise, apparently the real life costing varies between S$10 odd to S$20 odd as experienced by many who uses this unit. Perhaps you might want to check your flow rate, config and consider on the necessity to set it at 25 degrees cel.

i believe gods angel hasn't came across other cl650 chiller threads?

cos if u did gods_angel, u would've know the reason for y your chiller kicks in every 10mins is because yr flowrate through the chiller isn't correct, its either too fast or too slow.

the way to correct this is either change yr pump or you change your temperature set as each temperature set requires a specific flowrate for proper cooling

when you've done it right, the chiller cools for roughly 20-40mins and stops for 1-2hrs

right now, your configuration is completely WRONG <_< so go ahead and correct it

regarding elec bill, me, melvyn and many others using this model elec bill only go up by $10

it can't be 50 unless PUB give all of us discount :D

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