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Chiller keep running!!!!


knightx
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Hi all,

hope to clear my doubt..

got a resun 650 recently and planning to use on 4 ft tank..

As 4 ft tank not ready, i decide to use it on my current 2 ft tank first in my hall to test test..

problem is, the chiller starts off very frenquently though the tank temp is still very cold and within the temp of wat i set it (26 - 28 degrees)..

i place it in open air lah and even have a fan beating at its rear..

wat may contribute to this?

1) izzit my wrong placement or, izzit faulty?

2) oso, where the thermo stat located for chillers?

Attached is how i connect and where i put my chiller...

the chiller is 6 mthx old exactly as the production date stated is early this yr..but don have warranty..din buy with it.. :(

hope bros here can help...

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Did you set just the temperature that you want to cool only?

Hold on to the 'set' button, then you will see a 0,+1,+2...

set it to a +1 or +2, this will means that when the temp of the water running thr u the chiller is 1 or 2 degree higher than the pre-set temp, the chiller will kick in.

otherwise, if its 0, the chiller will keep running.

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Did you set just the temperature that you want to cool only?

Hold on to the 'set' button, then you will see a 0,+1,+2...

set it to a +1 or +2, this will means that when the temp of the water running thr u the chiller is 1 or 2 degree higher than the pre-set temp, the chiller will kick in.

otherwise, if its 0, the chiller will keep running.

yup i done dat oredi..

dono why still keep running...

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just my 2 cents worth relating to chiller in a 2ft tank.

the amount of water is not a lot and if u happen to set your chiller to be 28C [assuming there is indeed some mistake in the setting], the chiller will take only a short period of time to cool till 28 and then cut off. It takes probably another 5-10 minutes before hitting 28.9 ~ 29 again.

My chiller used to be on and off every 5-10 minutes because of these. It is a matter of volume, hence the fluatuation can be quite fast and hence chiller kicks in quite freq.

One way is to increase the temp diff [i am not sure if resun can], and set it to cool till 26 and kicks in only when 29. in that case, u may not have such frequent on/off.

I assume your 2 ft is without compartment rite ?

of course there is always chance that something else might be wrong

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just my 2 cents worth relating to chiller in a 2ft tank.

the amount of water is not a lot and if u happen to set your chiller to be 28C [assuming there is indeed some mistake in the setting], the chiller will take only a short period of time to cool till 28 and then cut off. It takes probably another 5-10 minutes before hitting 28.9 ~ 29 again.

My chiller used to be on and off every 5-10 minutes because of these. It is a matter of volume, hence the fluatuation can be quite fast and hence chiller kicks in quite freq.

One way is to increase the temp diff [i am not sure if resun can], and set it to cool till 26 and kicks in only when 29. in that case, u may not have such frequent on/off.

I assume your 2 ft is without compartment rite ?

of course there is always chance that something else might be wrong

hi thx for yer reply,

i set my chiller to 25dc and its suppose to kick in when it reaches 27-28 dc...

its still the same prob...

wats a compartment?

oso where can i find the thermostat?

thx bro

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did you check the tank temperature using a seperate termometer??? also did the temp manage to drop to 26????

one thing that i experenice on my 2 footer is that the water heats up very fast if i'm using 150w MH as my 2 footer only about 10g...so even if you cool it down fast it can also gain heat very fast....for me i can never set to 25 degress as the chiller will run without stopping.....

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did you check the tank temperature using a seperate termometer??? also did the temp manage to drop to 26????

one thing that i experenice on my 2 footer is that the water heats up very fast if i'm using 150w MH as my 2 footer only about 10g...so even if you cool it down fast it can also gain heat very fast....for me i can never set to 25 degress as the chiller will run without stopping.....

i got 2 thermometers in my tank itself jus to be sure..

the tank temp is 25dc max throughout the day...

even with this, the chiller still kick start and showed 27 dc very often...

they jus don tally even thou the tank the freaking cold... :unsure:

i using pl btw so heat generation is not as high

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i got 2 thermometers in my tank itself jus to be sure..

the tank temp is 25dc max throughout the day...

even with this, the chiller still kick start and showed 27 dc very often...

they jus don tally even thou the tank the freaking cold... :unsure:

i using pl btw so heat generation is not as high

ur actual water temp n that figure shown on the chiller need not tally... this is due to difference in country of manufacturing n using...

either u take it as that which means 27 dc on chiller equals to 25 dc of water... so u shld set ur chiller to kick in at 28

or u will hav to offset the displayed temp on the chiller (refer to the manual on how to offset)

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hi,

was asked by knightx to comment on this. Thanks Diabolus.

Actually I do not like to comment on other brands cos it will create unhappiness by their distributors or sales persons.

So I will just comment on what you should look for in a chiller or rather how a chiller should properly function. I wish to make it clear I am not condemning any chiller brand here and my comments are just general information on what a chiller buyer should be aware of.

For a 2 ft tank with slow heat buildup, it would take a very short time to chill to the desired temperature about 5 to 10mins for a real 1/2hp chiller. Off time should be at least more than 1hr unless heat build up is very fast.

For this proper function to happen, you need to ensure a few things.

1) inlet and outlet to chiller pump should not be placed too close to each other otherwise, a closed loop is formed and only a very small amount is cooled and may affect the thermostat incorrectly cutting off before the entire tank is actualy cooled.

2) True rated parts must be used in the chiller. Most brands use undersized cooling chambers (the part where water is in contact with the cooling coils). This is to make the buyer think the chiller is very effective because it can chill down the tank very fast as reported by the thermostat. Usually the inlet and outlet of the chamber is also reduced to reduce or restrict flow rates. Hence what happens is the limited water in the chamber cools very fast, cutting off the thermostat, and is replaced very slowly, hence 20 to 40mins later it activates again. However, the entire tank is not yet chilled. This is less apparent in larger tanks such as 4ft. And hence creates an illusion that the tanks can be chilled by 2 or 3 degrees within 20mins even for a 4ft tank. Which is not possible. Any experienced chiller user will concur.

3)Good quality thermostat with decimal place and reliable thermo probe. A good chiller should always accurately report the same temperature as the area of the tank it is drawing water from, ie the temp measured from the suction area of the tank to the chiller. Some offset may be needed but it is usually less than +/-0.5 degrees.

To sidetrack, PACIFIC COO chillers have no such problems as stated above and use quality thermostats and guaranteed true rated parts and cooling chambers.

However with quality and true rated components, it comes with a certain price and hence if you compare the different brands of chillers which claim to be 1/2hp, you will see a great size difference. Normally the smaller they are, the cheaper they are as to save on freight charges, undersized parts are used. Which is why you can find chillers which cost just less than $600 and yet claim to be 1/2hp.

If a new chiller runs non stop, then it simply means it is unable to cool your tank volume.

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