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Sump Design


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Oh and Phang... yes, the sump is above the mains. well... next to, but higher than the mains. :D:lol:

**(this post is edited cos I asked a darn stupid question... how did you know my real name.)

Ok... now that I've judged my sump/refugium design to have passed SRC Quality standards, I gotta ask, is the refugium large enough (ie: 38.5cm X 32.5cm) to take care of all the nitrites and phosphates?

What is Macroalgae? Do I have to buy it or does it grow over cycling?

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Macroalgae can be bought or collected from other reefers who have just harvested their refugium. It's usually caulerpa or some type of the red algae. I won't recommend bryopsis since it's a nuisance algae that is hard to control if it spreads to the main tank.

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I take it the the size of the refugium is ok. What about LR? Should LRs be placed in the refugium too?

Phang, I noticed that you have glass panels that compartmentalise your DSB. What is the purpose and what are the advantages of doing that?

Tanzy, I'm not too good with scientific names... is this the red algae you're referring to? The ones in the foreground on the left corner.

post-6-1042045459.jpg

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I'm not familiar with the algae species but the key to successful macroalgae nutrient export is to use fast growing algae so it will suck up all the unwanted phosphates and DOC.

I suppose you could keep a lionfish since they leave all those pods and worms alone.

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Phang, I noticed that you have glass panels that compartmentalise your DSB. What is the purpose and what are the advantages of doing that?

Oh.... it's jus an engineering design that went wrong......

Dun get bothered by it......

B)

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Ok... great. It looks like I'm all set. But I have 2 more fine tuning questions:

1. Do you think the overflow box where I'll attach the PVC pipe for bringing the water back to my mains will create a lot of noise?

2. Can you guys show me a picture of your PVC fixture (and give me a list of items needed) for the hole at the bottom of your overflow box that brings the water from your main tank into your sump?

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Clarence, If you are referring to the piping that xhannels water into your sump, then from your drawing, shouldn't be a problem since your overflow is mid way up.... still wondering why you did it that way.....

attach a coupling thru the hole, silicon them down with a generous amount and attach the pvc pipes... ensure that the pipes are glued.....

To eliminate noise fromgushing water,

1) use media to cushion the water flow (eg. bioballs)

or

2) do a durso pipe.... (do a search here... should have a good thread by Clowntrigger somewhere here)

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Norman,

I'm not sure... but I believe either way would be fine, since they work chemically, not mechanically.

On that, I was just wondering if it'll be ok to put carbon or phosphate absorbers in the same chamber as the protein skimmer... eg under the protein skimmer?

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Phang,

To end your torture of wondering why I designed the sump that way, refer to the picture below.

The thick black line indicates what the existing built in cabinet in my room looks like. The lowest line is about 2 feet off the ground.

Also, I modified the sump design. If you refer to the original drawing, I have now actually removed the last return chamber glass, extending the refugium by about 2.5cm. I thought that final piece was rather redundant. Now my only worry is that the overflow back into the main tank may not be as fast as the powerhead pump... will this happen if this is an overflow system?

Perhaps I should have 2 holes drilled into the existing tank to speed up the overflow return if necessary?

post-6-1042266781.jpg

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Why not jus avoid the overflow box and silicon PVCs straight thru the holes by the side of the tank....

Can always have more holes with pipings ending at different parts of your reef to simulate random current... to top it off, maybe add ball valves to each outlet so you can control the amount of flow into the carious zones of the reef.......

I recommend another panel of glass for the final chamber but placed in perpendicular instead in parallel to last panel...(hope you understand)...

for chemical filtration........ a refugium that crashes in something that will upset you.....

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sorrie 2 break the flow...

ani I'm finkin' of a sump wif a skimmer to work hand in hand wif my 2213 for my 2ft tank. So either my 2213's gotta b mech and my sump b bio or vice versa... wat do u guys think it shld b? oh and ani suggestions for a skimmer? thnks! :D

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I you intend to use a sump/skimmer, a canister doesn't really improve the filtration capabilities.... in fact, canisters could be excellent Nitrate factories for your reef.....

The only time it's required is the transitional period where you wait for your sump to be establish....

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Wolfie,

Yah, Nitrates are NOT GOOD so what Phang is saying is that using a cannister filter, you will build up Nitrates...

:lol:

So in a nutshell, don't use cannister filter for your reef.

Ok so Phang, back to where we left off, I don't really understand the other panel of glass thing... perhaps you can email me a sketch or scan it here.

I was thinking about avoiding the overflow box altogether (I believe we're on the same wavelength now :D ), so I went shopping today and asking about these piping stuff. I got these for $5. Do you think its too big? I'll be using a 750 l/hr pump in the main tank.

post-6-1042374465.jpg

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Should be ok for 25mm PVC elbow. I'll be using the same one to for my refugium to sump.

I worry about the rubber gasket in the long run. Will it dried/crack up thus causing leaks?

Anybody have any problem so far? Or should we glued them using silicon all the way.

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From what i read somewhere, try to avoid rubber. Will crack and leak. Use loads of silicon. Picture is of my overflow box.

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If you don't want to waste the canister filter, you can use it to run carbon or phos-guard. Just have to keep it clean and prevent it from collecting detritus that will breakdown or just use it intermitently.

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Can always have more holes with pipings ending at different parts of your reef to simulate random current... to top it off, maybe add ball valves to each outlet so you can control the amount of flow into the carious zones of the reef.......

Clarence ,

With reference to the above.... why not have 2-3 outlets with ball valves controlling the flow into each outlet at different parts of your reef....

In this way, you do not have to

1) worry about your sump overflowing when you use a larger capacity pump...

2) no requirements to obtain Powerheads to create currents...

3) and if the flow is controlled in various outputs can create good and random water movement.....

;)

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Ok Phang, so to have 2 or 3, I should get smaller outlets right? These are about 4cm in diameter. Something more detailed, the holes for these outlets must be completely LOWER than the water level of the refugium right?

Ian, are those the durso piping? I read it from the reference in one of the above replies, but I was just wondering, how does the water travel upward?

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Water travels upwards by a self starting siphon if it is a Durso standpipe.

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